(Topic ID: 65964)

Medusa Owners Club & Restorations Fans Also Welcome


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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  • 102 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 85 days ago by pinballshark
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There are 547 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 11.
#401 2 years ago
Quoted from MrBellMan:

Question for the Medusa owners out there. I'm fixing a friends Medusa and discovered that our backglass' are slightly different...
My backglass shows Medusa with nipples and and some definition in the crotch area:

My friend's backglass does not:

Were there multiple versions PG/R Rated???
Rob Bell
Robsgameroom.com

I just severely overpaid for a "project" machine. But it does have a few (very few) good things going for it. I'm trying to figure out this thing about the naughty back glass. We've all heard that CPR made the repros with a lot of excess color saturation (dot gain). However, the person I'm quoting here with possibly a real original nips back glass also has that over saturated color. And also if you check the IPDB.org pictures of the "original prototypes" naughty back glasses, the colors are over saturated. By saturated, I mean specifically the stonework looks more purple than gray, especially the bald muscle guy with his back to us at the bottom of the glass. Also the head of the red serpent in the lower left area is so red that it almost blends into the background. By contrast, the censored, nip free mainstream original glass shows the stonework looking very gray, Medusa looks more yellow-gold colored, and the red serpent is more defined.

So the machine I got has the saturated color version with nips. Is it an original or repro? I compared the silver blocking ink along side my original Centaur glass and it looks the same. I'm more convinced however that it is original because upon close inspection, the silver ink really has a sort of "Patina". For example, you can see where the bottom of the glass meets the trim frame, the silver ink is rippled and has a lot of grime. I don't want to jump to conclusions that mine is an original, but I find it hard to imagine that a CPR repro glass looks this old. I'm assuming the CPR glasses were made within the last 5 years or less? Thoughts? Anyone have a known CPR repro glass to compare to this?

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#402 2 years ago

It just seems like there's a lot more of the so-called "prototypes" out there than just the 10 or 100 or whatever that was originally stated. It seems like about 25% of the photos I see have the nips. I'm actually wondering if Bally intentionally understated how many nips glasses were produced, because they ran production and then got complaints. Would not surprise me if Bally already had a lot of these made and decided to sneak them into the market and just tell people it was only a few.

#403 2 years ago

Bally had "credit" decals on their backglasses.
Newer glass the "credit" word is silkscreen on.

#404 2 years ago

So, what's the best way to get a high score on Medusa? Keep the ball up top?

#405 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Bally had "credit" decals on their backglasses.
Newer glass the "credit" word is silkscreen on.

Wow! You are right. And apparently I've got one of those yellowed old decals on mine (it's on the backside as pictured) so that means mine is an original "sample" glass. It also means those originals had the heavy, dark colors. And it also suggests the quote from the artist Kevin O'Connor on the IPDB is incorrect about only 9-10 samples being made. Or else I got really lucky!

From IPDB.org: The backglass in the flyer shows a more physically revealing image of the Medusa than what appears on the production games. Artist Kevin O'Connor tells us about it: I painted the original revealing version and then was asked to paint over the naughty bits which truthfully, in reference to the groin area, was unintentional. It was just the way the folds in her gown turned out looking. I can't imagine that any made it to production before Marketing put the brakes on but I do remember glass prototypes came in before then. Usually 9-10 samples. The flyers must have been printed early on before the decision was made.

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#407 2 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

How does the skill shot work? Thanks.

You must time your shot with just the right velocity to cause the ball to roll over each star (gorgon) just as they light up. It is very hard shot to get them all every time.

#408 2 years ago
Quoted from 5280wzrd:

You must time your shot with just the right velocity to cause the ball to roll over each star (gorgon) just as they light up. It is very hard shot to get them all every time.

Yes. It is not just a timing thing, but you also have to learn exactly how hard to plunge in order to get it. It took me quite a few games to get it for the first time, but since then, I get it fairly often.

1 week later
#409 2 years ago

I got a new CPR playfield yesterday. I was worried about their web site warning that Medusa Playfields have a slight "twist" in the game board. But I was relieved that it actually looks just fine at least on the one they shipped me. Here is the text from their ad and then pictures of what I got. I ordered the Silver Twisted Gold version.

....* remaining Silver stock all have a very mild twist in the gameboard panel, so will not arrive completely flat. Once loaded with hardware and on it's back in a cabinet, this will be moot. Essentially the front face is "gold grade" and these Silvers can be described as "slightly twisted golds" so they will be stamped as Silvers.

My pictures here...

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#410 2 years ago

Joining the club after several years of looking. Lo and behold, one pops up in my backyard.

Definitely a players-class machine, it's got some playfield wear and some pretty rough mylar. Cabinet will need some work and a repaint but it's not horrible by any means. It also has a few operational issues but it's certainly playable to a good degree.

IMG_1479 (resized).JPG

Anyway, let's talk issues. The biggest one is the 7-bank targets. When you start a game, they all reset up but then the single target drops and it starts on two targets. 100 points gets scored. The 3 and 4 group work OK. The 5 group misses the rightmost target. I haven't yet tested the 6 or 7 groups. So OK, let's go into solenoid test. All 7 drops work fine in solenoid test so I moved on to switch test.

Problem 1, switch test shows 41 in the display, Movable Flipper EOS. Looking at the Zipper Flipper mech, it looks like there is an EOS on both the left and right flippers but only one switch number is given. Does that mean they both share #41? I take it these should not be closed in switch test?

So even though 41 was blinking away I tried another switch and it briefly showed that one before returning to 41. So I tried the 7 drop targets - none appeared at all, just the 41 kept blinking. Should I have gotten switch closures with the targets down, or is it a quick, momentary sort of thing as they fall?

Let's start with that. There's also some issues with speech getting cut off and a bit of asymmetry in the zipper flippers when they pull in but we'll get to that later

Thanks!
Dave

#411 2 years ago

I just found this 1995 receipt in my Medusa for $350. It was probably a very nice machine in 1995, 21 years ago. I paid $2000 just recently and it has issues. I calculated the compound annual growth rate (investment rate) to be 8.65% annually. Not a bad investment.

I do however like to consider the dollar value at the time of sale. According to the Federal Government, $350 in 1995 is worth $551 in today's dollars. So the compound annual growth rate on that would be 6.33%. Still not a bad investment. Goes to show owning pinball machines, maintaining them, and reselling them after years should allow a person who knows the hobby to at least recoup their initial purchase price, if not enjoy a small appreciation profit.

Photo Feb 23, 8 30 29 AM (resized).jpg

#412 2 years ago

In 1995 at that time the market was flooded with games.
It was completely saturated. I got my Judge Dead for $400.00 dollars.
Capcom just came on the scene with Pinball Magic.
In a few months, everything in the pinball market would collapse.

#413 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

In 1995 at that time the market was flooded with games.
It was completely saturated. I got my Judge Dead for $400.00 dollars.
Capcom just came on the scene with Pinball Magic.
In a few months, everything in the pinball market would collapse.

If I had a time machine, grabbing some great deals on pins would be on my bucket list.

2 weeks later
#414 2 years ago

Hi all
Question - does the plexi that covers the display in the playfield have a gasket or ring to keep it level with the playfield? I recollect mine had a depression or the playfield has lifted( I rubbed my hand down the playfield and felts a 2-3mm lip between plexi and playfield only on one side- I hope the playfield hasn't delaminated) After discovering that Medusa went in the queue of projects, but I am thinking about having another look at it.

Any help appreciated.
Clive

#415 2 years ago

Dont have a Medusa, but i am kinda wondering, is there any way to make the speech in these older games sound abit clearer? better speakers or something? Or is it a ROM issue?

#416 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballNZ:

Hi all
Question - does the plexi that covers the display in the playfield have a gasket or ring to keep it level with the playfield?

If I recall correctly, yes. There's rubber o-rings sandwiched between the window and the playfield. Tighten accordingly to get it perfectly level.

#417 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballNZ:

Question - does the plexi that covers the display in the playfield have a gasket or ring to keep it level with the playfield?

Yes!, it is a gray "Williams display frame shape" item.
If lost, use Fishpaper or gasket seal from the hardware store
and sand it down in order to make the top plastic fit flush with the playfield when completely assembled.

2 weeks later
#418 2 years ago

hurray I finally got around to ordering the proper transparent targets for the back of medusa from http://www.langelius.com

great service thanks bob

#419 2 years ago

Can definitely vouch for Bob's targets, I ordered some late last year, they are excellent.

1 week later
#420 2 years ago

Can anyone tell me if the Bally zipper flippers mechanism in Medusa is supposed to be greased on the moving parts? Mine is and I'm stripping it down for a rebuild. I didn't notice anything in the manual about lubrication of this mech and usually in pinball, we never put grease or oil on the parts. But this is an old design and it does have metal-on-metal friction. Interested in the consensus of Pinsiders.

For sure, the grease does end up getting gummy and nasty with age.

Thanks.

Photo Feb 10, 9 33 57 PM (resized).jpg

#421 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Can anyone tell me if the Bally zipper flippers mechanism in Medusa is supposed to be greased on the moving parts?

No mention of it in the manual. I'd say no, but will defer to someone with a more definitive answer. From the picture it looks like someone was quite liberal with the grease regardless.

#422 2 years ago

Use a light grease only on the sliding parts.
Use a grease that does not get hard.
A little goes a long way.

1 month later
#423 2 years ago

Advice please...

Here is a 15 second video of my problem:

I just got done doing a playfield swap on my Medusa. It was working before the swap. I checked every wire, lamp socket, and coil connection several times. When I did the swap, I put in all LEDs. I have not yet installed the Alltek new lamp driver board and Auxillary lamp board. They are on order.

The problem is that when I power up the game, the drop targets do not reset, there's some weird sounds, and the game says "Medusa's Revenge". Then it basically is locked up, though most (but not all) of the controlled lamps cycle and flash (yes they flicker a lot). I am hoping this entire problem is just the LEDs are messing with the Auxillary circuit, as I know this game actually has a number of coils, including the drop targets, on the lamp driver circuit. Maybe when I get in the new Alltek boards, this problem will go away?

Appreciate any comments on this problem. I'm sure a number of switches need adjusting - as is always the case when doing a PF swap. But I wouldn't think that would cause the game to completely lock up. It will not even go into service mode.

#424 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Advice please...
Here is a 15 second video of my problem:
ยป YouTube video
I just got done doing a playfield swap on my Medusa. It was working before the swap. I checked every wire, lamp socket, and coil connection several times. When I did the swap, I put in all LEDs. I have not yet installed the Alltek new lamp driver board and Auxillary lamp board. They are on order.
The problem is that when I power up the game, the drop targets do not reset, there's some weird sounds, and the game says "Medusa's Revenge". Then it basically is locked up, though most (but not all) of the controlled lamps cycle and flash (yes they flicker a lot). I am hoping this entire problem is just the LEDs are messing with the Auxillary circuit, as I know this game actually has a number of coils, including the drop targets, on the lamp driver circuit. Maybe when I get in the new Alltek boards, this problem will go away?
Appreciate any comments on this problem. I'm sure a number of switches need adjusting - as is always the case when doing a PF swap. But I wouldn't think that would cause the game to completely lock up. It will not even go into service mode.

Medusa's Revenge means it is tilted. Focus on that.

#425 2 years ago

Thank you very much! When I did the restoration work I put a ball in the tilt since it was previously missing. I did not realize that the tilt mechanism was misaligned and the ball was already rolled to the back of the tilt. I readjusted the tilt and now it does not say Medusa's revenge when it powers up. But all the other problems still remain including the drop targets not working. I think I'm going to wait for my New light boards to come in this week and then I will try again. By the way I have a regular lightbulb on the solenoid expander relay circuit under the playfield.

IMG_1084 (resized).JPG

#426 2 years ago

Are there any coils locked on? Check the fuses? Cycle the coils in diagnostic menu? Check closed switches in diagnostic menu?

2 weeks later
#427 2 years ago

Okay, problem finally solved. After trying everything, I eventually hired a professional pinball repair guy who solved the problem in about an hour. So in summary: Auxiliary coil circuit with the drop target coils, knocker, saucer, and ball launch were acting flaky or not working intermittently....

- pulled every coil and checked it
- replaced every diode on every coil in this circuit of coils, even though they all tested good
- replaced the auxiliary coil driver board with a brand new one
- replaced the lamp driver board with a new one (it drives the aux coil board)
- also replaced the auxiliary lamp driver board while I was at it
- replaced the the entire MPU board with a new one
- replaced the rectifier board with a new one - it was a little toasty anyhow
- sent out the power driver board and sound board out for professional testing and refurb

Problem still remained. And the final culprit... a poorly repinned molex connector on the J4 connector of the power driver board! There were two little wires shorted and almost touching, looking even a little burned. Also reflowed the header for J4.

Well, I learned a lot and now I have all these great new parts in my machine! But I spent hundreds of dollars and wasted weeks of time trying to figure this out. I am posting this on the Medusa forum so hopefully someone else can solve their problems quicker than me!

IMG_1243 (resized).JPG

#428 2 years ago

Hello fellow Medusa owners, I recently acquired a Medusa and launched straight into restoring it. Meaning I immediately started to dismantle it for this purpose.

One of the things I discovered is when I removed the light bar (the light panel at the very top of the playfield), it seems to be missing some of the lights. Can anyone confirm if my suspicion is correct, see the image, there are 4 lights that appear to be missing (2 each on the very ends of the array).

Also, is the light removable from its base? I know you can twist the light out of the main panel, but is the light itself removable from its base (by base, I mean the black piece that you actually twist to get the light out from the panel)? I suspect this is a 555 wedge light, but did not want to pull on it just in case they are not removable. Thanks.

Medusa Light Bar (resized).jpg

#429 2 years ago
Quoted from pinplayer01:

Can anyone confirm if my suspicion is correct, see the image, there are 4 lights that appear to be missing (2 each on the very ends of the array).

Yes all the sockets should have a #555 bulb

Quoted from pinplayer01:

is the light removable from its base?

Yes, remove the (I believe) 7 nuts and it will come off!

#430 2 years ago

pinplayer01. You can use #555 or #259 lamps
----- for that particular assembly. The black sockets are twist
----- and pull. Yes, you are missing four of the twist
----- sockets for this/that assembly.

#431 2 years ago

Having just gotten everything back together, I'm now baffled by how to level the drop targets to the playfield. Right now they are well below the playfield and the ball gets stuck behind them constantly. This is easy to adjust on games like Centaur, with the bottoms of the assembly having a dovetail slotted adjustment. But Medusa does not appear to have any adjustment for the drops. What am I missing? There must be some way to adjust. Here's pics.

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#433 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

pinplayer01. You can use #555 or #259 lamps
----- for that particular assembly. The black sockets are twist
----- and pull. Yes, you are missing four of the twist
----- sockets for this/that assembly.

Hi, thanks for your response. From your post, it seems then that the lamp is removable from the black twist socket - please confirm. Lastly, as I am missing these, is there anywhere that sells the black twist socket? If I can't find any, then I suppose I would need to mock up something for these missing 4 lamps. Thanks.

#434 2 years ago
Quoted from pinplayer01:

Hi, thanks for your response. From your post, it seems then that the lamp is removable from the black twist socket - please confirm. Lastly, as I am missing these, is there anywhere that sells the black twist socket? If I can't find any, then I suppose I would need to mock up something for these missing 4 lamps. Thanks.

yes just twist them and they come out! As for where to buy them ..... most pinball places have them like
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8767
http://www.pbresource.com/sockets.html#555

You may want to look closer to home as shipping will cost more than the parts! Like this place (but currently out of stock)
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/24-8767.html

#435 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

Having just gotten everything back together, I'm now baffled by how to level the drop targets to the playfield. Right now they are well below the playfield and the ball gets stuck behind them constantly. This is easy to adjust on games like Centaur, with the bottoms of the assembly having a dovetail slotted adjustment. But Medusa does not appear to have any adjustment for the drops. What am I missing? There must be some way to adjust. Here's pics.

Yep, I had that same problem for a good while. A friend of mine ( jodester ) came over and put two magnetic Mylar strips under them and it propped them up enough for this to no longer happen (we also increased the pitch). 100% fix for this problem since there was no adjustment.

#436 2 years ago

So, here is my current problem:

The ball is not reading when it's in the saucer. The kicker works (i.e. when I power cycle the game it will kick out but it does not ball search or anything when the pinball goes into the saucer). Not really sure what the issue may be, any quick ideas?

IMG_4756 (resized).JPG

#437 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

yes just twist them and they come out! As for where to buy them ..... most pinball places have them like
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8767
http://www.pbresource.com/sockets.html#555
You may want to look closer to home as shipping will cost more than the parts! Like this place (but currently out of stock)
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/24-8767.html

Excellent, thank you meSz for the references, much appreciated!

#438 2 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

So, here is my current problem:
The ball is not reading when it's in the saucer. The kicker works (i.e. when I power cycle the game it will kick out but it does not ball search or anything when the pinball goes into the saucer). Not really sure what the issue may be, any quick ideas?

Look in your kickout and see if you have the two metal tabs sticking up like my picture reflects! These two tabs are there to make the ball set back into the hole so the ball is sitting on top of the switch! If they're there and not worn put the ball in the hole and push down on it and roll it towards the back of the hole and see if it registers as it may just be that the switch needs adjusted!

IMG_7574[1] (resized).JPG

Also make sure your switch has the plastic nub in it or the ball wont register!

#439 2 years ago

Thanks Tigerlaw. That's sort of what I was thinking. Or maybe just some strips of that brown magnetic rubber stuff - if I can find where to get it. Probably a craft store. They need to be raised up about .030". I was just thinking there must be some built in adjustment? Or maybe Bally got rid of adjustable targets starting on this model and then when I swapped to a new CPR playfield, the fit is not the same any more. I'll start rigging up something. : (

#440 2 years ago
Quoted from pinplayer01:

Hello fellow Medusa owners, I recently acquired a Medusa and launched straight into restoring it. Meaning I immediately started to dismantle it for this purpose.
One of the things I discovered is when I removed the light bar (the light panel at the very top of the playfield), it seems to be missing some of the lights. Can anyone confirm if my suspicion is correct, see the image, there are 4 lights that appear to be missing (2 each on the very ends of the array).
Also, is the light removable from its base? I know you can twist the light out of the main panel, but is the light itself removable from its base (by base, I mean the black piece that you actually twist to get the light out from the panel)? I suspect this is a 555 wedge light, but did not want to pull on it just in case they are not removable. Thanks.

You see that copper circuit board that all the twist sockets screw into? Be sure to lightly sand that so it is bright, not dull and dark. I just went though this. The copper gets a lot of oxidation over time and many lights will stop working randomly. Just polish it with fine sand paper, replace the missing twist sockets, replace the bulbs (I kept bulbs and not LEDs) and that should do it.

#441 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

hen I swapped to a new CPR playfield, the fit is not the same any more

Yep, spot on what happened on mine. The CPR play field was just a tad thicker. The brown magnetic rubber stuff will be perfect to prop it up. Just remember, when you pull out the play field later for some other reason they may shift a bit and need to be put back in place.

#442 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Look in your kickout and see if you have the two metal tabs sticking up like my picture reflects! These two tabs are there to make the ball set back into the hole so the ball is sitting on top of the switch! If they're there and not worn put the ball in the hole and push down on it and roll it towards the back of the hole and see if it registers as it may just be that the switch needs adjusted!

Also make sure your switch has the plastic nub in it or the ball wont register!

I just went through fixing this saucer issue also. It is almost certainly the switch. The white nub that the ball presses down on gets really worn down and becomes too short. You will need to remove the switch for this fix. I was able to carefully remove the white plastic nub that is riveted into the blade with pliers and put a new one in (that I got from another switch). Clean and adjust the switch - it should then work.

#443 2 years ago
Quoted from calico1997:

I just went through fixing this saucer issue also. It is almost certainly the switch. The white nub that the ball presses down on gets really worn down and becomes too short. You will need to remove the switch for this fix. I was able to carefully remove the white plastic nub that is riveted into the blade with pliers and put a new one in (that I got from another switch). Clean and adjust the switch - it should then work.

Is there a part I may need to order? I'm hosting a tourney at my house on Sunday so I want to get the order in ASAP. Thanks for the tips guys!

#444 2 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

Yep, spot on what happened on mine. The CPR play field was just a tad thicker. The brown magnetic rubber stuff will be perfect to prop it up. Just remember, when you pull out the play field later for some other reason they may shift a bit and need to be put back in place.

Do you have some pics for reference??

I'm about to swap a medusa pf, I'm sure I'll run into this issue

#445 2 years ago
Quoted from pinplayer01:

Lastly, as I am missing these, is there anywhere that sells the black twist socket?

Those black 555 lamp twist socket holders are very commonly used in car instrument clusters. So try your local auto parts store / auto electrician / auto wrecker.

#446 2 years ago

or try this:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8767

Edit: And exactly what mesz wrote earlier.

#447 2 years ago

Greetings.....
I'm doing a playfield swap on my Medusa. Somehow I have an orphan metal part that I don't know where it goes. I take tons of pictures as I disassembly parts but it appears I missed this one. Or maybe not..... First question is this from the Medusa? If so, where does it go?

I've searched parts lists, parts stores, and other restorer's pictures, but am striking out.

Thanks in advance.

medusa part (resized).jpg

#448 2 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

So, here is my current problem:
The ball is not reading when it's in the saucer. The kicker works (i.e. when I power cycle the game it will kick out but it does not ball search or anything when the pinball goes into the saucer). Not really sure what the issue may be, any quick ideas?

Sounds like the switch. Could be just an adjustment or possibly the switch capacitor is bad. There is a switch diagnostic menu where you can check this switch. The switch number should show up on the display when closed. Keep in mind the display will only show the lowest number switch closed so make sure you have your manual page showing the switch numbers as a reference. Just because a switch number shows up does not mean there's a problem, just that it is closed. For example if a drop is down, that switch # will show on the display. Experiment with closing switches by hand while in switch test and you'll understand. If the cap across the switch is bad it will not close. They are easily replaced but a temp fix is to simply cut one leg of the cap. You really only need a cap where the ball is moving fast like the skill shot rollovers.

This explains it all better than I can.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index3.htm#smatrix

#450 2 years ago

Anyone with leftover playfield rails who would consider selling?? Looking for the left and top ones. Don't have to be in top shape as they are likely to be used as templates for repro.

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