thanks hellfire if you ever in Newfoundland Canada I owe you a few beer for all your help lol........I have busy week but I will pick away at it in the evenings after work, I'LL keep ya posted
(Topic ID: 65964)
can some one post some pics of the zipper flippers under neath I think it is wired wrong or wrong eos switch as well I know the craft on the right is not the right one which is prob why I burnt out my new coil so quick it was always on..... the crank/pawn would never open it grrrrr....... you need to go over these pins with a fine tooth comb when buying 2nd hand........... also the wire colors and location would help as well or readsings on what wire or tab on EOS and tab on coil
thanks
Not sure if these will help ya or not. The first picture is of the one on the right and the second is the one on the left (standing in front of the machine with playfield raised). My machine has a little hacked wiring going on. Cant wait for the CPR repo playfield!!!
2014-02-17 15.47.53.jpg
2014-02-17 15.48.03.jpg
Two Rivers, WI
Heres pics of mine and i changed out my zipper mech from my old pf to my replacement one so Im giving you pics from my003-950.JPG extra zipper assembly so you can make sure yours is right.
Also I took pics of the lower flipper wiring as well.004-107.JPG005-249.JPG006.JPG013.JPG014.JPG009-875.JPG010-934.JPG
Thanks boys this should be very helpful.....I plugged the display in as the owner just had it unplug it lights up all 0s so the glass is good? Replace the chip?
yes change the decoder chip 
but first i would swap to another spot to see if it works properly in another player posision and swap that display to the P3 position see if it works properly then or not. if the p3 acts the same with a different display you might need to change the ic that controls the data wire
Btw i am 14,my dad owns the machines including medusa and he's trusting me to repair his mpu with acid damage (currently using a altek in medusa and swapping it for the original mpu once repaired if I don't goose it)
I have read up about it but don't wanna make a hash brown of it so I came to ask from the experts
(Q tips, white vinegar and pure alcohol I think that's correct)
Any help would be great
Hellfire my bottom right flipper the black green and orange is reverse on the NO contacts everything else is the same on bottom flippers
Zipper as the samea as yours and mesZ inspected close the eos seems to have very little contact pad if any at all so have to wait on the new eos as I think that's the problem I hope and like I said I know the crank on one of the zippers is from a bottom flipper that needs to be changed so I hope the parts will be here Monday as I have the day off but the box of parts I have may take me two days I will do the board components first as you had some forgiveness in the playing field lol sorry for all the questions my first pin so I apprentice all the help
From what I can tell all the parts are oringial except one coil on zipper I replaced and one on the bottom unreal for 32 years old why I'm changing a lot of stuff caps as the dry out. Putting memory cap in and new ball coil sleeves and rubber as I think that will improve the game
Quoted from blanner22:Hellfire my bottom right flipper the black green and orange is reverse on the NO contacts everything else is the same on bottom flippers
No worries on the lower right secondary EOS secondary is right right dont matter which way they are connected as long as they both goto the same switch. same thing applies to the left red & green secondary wires the switches arent polarized.
My EOS switches arent the best either but they work fine with any luck they will last until i get around to restoring my medusa. I am kinda interested though i forgot about the second set of eos switches on the zippers kinda odd usualy bally upper flippers only have a single eos wonder what else its disconnecting. Its a HV switch not a LV switch so ill have to see what else its hooked up to.
Quoted from Pinballgeek:I have read up about it but don't wanna make a hash brown of it so I came to ask from the experts
(Q tips, white vinegar and pure alcohol I think that's correct)
Any help would be great
Scrape the traces clean with a round tip scalpel and use acid based prumbers flux and retin the traces with a saturated desoldering braid. the vinegar method is useful on alkalyne batteries but bally had lead acid batteries instead. if you want to neutralize it use a liquid antacid like pepto bismal. but i find ammonia cleaning then acid flux retinning works the best.
Here are 2 acid damaged boards im working on ive used this process with. 016-515.JPG018-144.JPG
I got me 5 gorgons on my skill shot tonight. First time! Required a reeeeeally soft plunge (at least on my machine's plunger/spring/whatnot assembly).
Also had the top right flipper poop out on me yesterday. Inspection showed a piece of loose black electrical tape & 1 of the 3 coil wires dangling. Wow. Solder applied. Easiest fix ever. *phew*
-Jason
the other eos switch is for the light under the flippers I think I read that somewhere, going to be very disappointed if the EOS switch don't work....
which lung do I ground to trigger the solenoid? which is the best ground to use?
Quoted from jasonbar:I got me 5 gorgons on my skill shot tonight. First time! Required a reeeeeally soft plunge (at least on my machine's plunger/spring/whatnot assembly).
Also had the top right flipper poop out on me yesterday. Inspection showed a piece of loose black electrical tape & 1 of the 3 coil wires dangling. Wow. Solder applied. Easiest fix ever. *phew*
-Jason
I've had pretty good luck getting all 5 Gorgons ... and you're right - it requires a really soft plunge. There's times I think I went too soft, but then poof - ALL 5. Very challenging skill shot. But then it only matters if you make the most of those Gorgons by nailing the spinner as much as you can.
Swap the displays 1 with 3 and 3-1 mesZ and hellfire so it's the display should I will order the chip and try that first
Quoted from blanner22:Swap the displays 1 with 3 and 3-1 mesZ and hellfire so it's the display should I will order the chip and try that first
Since the display is working but just reflecting zeros then I would, as hellfire stated, think it's the chip!
On the repo front (news) another Medusa product has the possibility of being remade. Per http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-apron-remakes-what-titles-to-start-with-cast-your-vote a guy has inked a deal with PPP to reproduce Williams aprons. I had asked if this would lead to Bally aprons as well and he advised yes. Go to the link for more, if interested!
Regarding the CPR repo-ing the Medusa playfield, per their site they're no longer taking request as it is now filled. One step closer!
3 weeks later
Just picked up a Medusa this weekend and was watching the TNT video that was posted earlier in this thread.
In the video he mentions that the upper flippers still allow the ball to pass between them when they're together, but mine close practically together and the ball can sit between them.
How far apart are they actually supposed to be when closed?
Quoted from blanner22:What about TP4 on the power board? 0volts I'm think it's should be something there?
How are you measuring it? TP4 is AC so you measure hot to common not to ground like you do for you DC measurement (which are all of the others on the board). When you turn the game on do you have GI?
Quoted from MrDucks:Just picked up a Medusa this weekend and was watching the TNT video that was posted earlier in this thread.
In the video he mentions that the upper flippers still allow the ball to pass between them when they're together, but mine close practically together and the ball can sit between them.
How far apart are they actually supposed to be when closed?
He is incorrect. The zippers close to not let a ball pass - that is why they are on a timer to reopen if you do not hit any drop targets or if you go through one of the side lanes
Quoted from Xenon75:He is incorrect. The zippers close to not let a ball pass - that is why they are on a timer to reopen if you do not hit any drop targets or if you go through one of the side lanes
When mine close the ball can still just barely slip through.
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:When mine close the ball can still just barely slip through.
Something is wrong with your zipper mech. then it should not allow the ball through when the flippers are moved together unless you have the mini flippers activated to let it through.
1 month later
Heads-up/early warning: I'm selling my Medusa ($1800/obo). Very nice all around & shopped. Near perfect back glass, minimal wear in the bonus area (much less than I've seen on most Medusas), perfect/unhacked/no-acid boards, new correct lighted flipper bats with white Superbands, some planking in the upper playfield and wear in the skill shot area, otherwise very nice. Plays fast and fun.
I'm not putting it in the Pinside Marketplace until I have all my photos together. Here's a few quick shots ... it's all I have for now.
BTW I'm only selling as I got one in near pristine shape last weekend. Paid considerably more. Though it is fun having two Medusas right now. 
155418.jpg
IMG_9004.jpgPlayed the above machine about a month ago. It plays faster than my Mylar covered Medusa and is def above average in the cosmetics dept. If I didn't have one already I would be all over this. Congrats on the new addition Brian!! Now just sell me your Centaur so I can get rid of the 2 I currently have coming in.
Quoted from CaptainFantastic:Played the above machine about a month ago. It plays faster than my Mylar covered Medusa and is def above average in the cosmetics dept. If I didn't have one already I would be all over this. Congrats on the new addition Brian!! Now just sell me your Centaur so I can get rid of the 2 I currently have coming in.
Thanks Craig. Love them Bally pins. Now I just need to locate an Embryon and Fathom. Just pulled my Dolly Parton out of the attic and per her back into service ... no shame here - I actually really like it.
Hellfire, very nice machines. Can't wait till the artwork gets completed for Medusa and the playfield is done by CPR so I can restore mine!!!
3 months later
Dear Sir or Madam-
I am writing to inform you that I regret to say that I must hereby tender my resignation to the Medusa Club.
I sincerely enjoyed my tenure here, & I don't want my decision to reflect upon any of you or on Medusa herself. Medusa treated me well, & I her. It's just that our relationship ran its course, & we mutually decided that it was in both of our best interests to split up.
She's gone to a better place, where she can receive the attention that she deserves. I'll remember her fondly..................unless Mr. Rusty Carriage Bolt Hat Man makes me forget all about her...........
Sincerely,
-Jason
2 months later
Newport
Time to resurrect this thread as I am waiting on a medusa arrival. It has mylar on the playfield which I will consider removing when I get a good look at it. Has anyone removed mylar from a medusa? if so hot or cold method? and which were the troublesome areas if any?
heat gun on these old ballys is the only way, the cold method is to risky to try and is safer only on later machines. use goo gone to melt adhesive and clean residue off with naptha after.
Quoted from Kevlar:Time to resurrect this thread as I am waiting on a medusa arrival. It has mylar on the playfield which I will consider removing when I get a good look at it. Has anyone removed mylar from a medusa? if so hot or cold method? and which were the troublesome areas if any?
Gander, NL
2 months later
1 month later
1 month later
Medusa CPR Playfield is now in CNC process per CPR website: http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html
Albury
Has anyone heard any word about repro center flipper posts for Medusa? They're pretty much impossible to find now I believe.
I'm assuming your referring to the Shield of the Gods Post?
If so, I sent an NOS one to Rick a few years back & he already Repro'd them. BAA doesn't show them in stock but Marco does: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-972-1
If this is what you are talking about.....
Medusa_Sheild of the Gods Kicker.jpgPer CPR via another post on Pinside:
"Medusa Project (playfield) is at the CAD file stage with the CAD file about 80% complete, should undergo test cuts this coming week and production cutting within a few weeks at most."
Quoted from Aurich:Has anyone heard any word about repro center flipper posts for Medusa? They're pretty much impossible to find now I believe.
Not impossible at all, actually. Bay Area Amusements had them in stock, I just ordered two spares for Fireball II.
Quoted from neurokinetik:Not impossible at all, actually. Bay Area Amusements had them in stock, I just ordered two spares for Fireball II.
Yes, I was obviously misinformed.
Not for my Medusa, since I sadly don't own one, maybe some day. But I was able to pass the info to the owner who thought Rick hadn't remade them yet, so I appreciate it.
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