Hey guys I’m in need of some pics of the zipper flipper assembly under the playfield. Need to replace the standard flippers and figure out how to instal and wire up the zipper mechanism. Thanks in advance

At the top of every thread here is an image gallery of pictures attached within the respective thread. You will find some pictures of the zipper flipper mechs:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/medusa-owners-club?gallery#g

I did a restoration last year with pictures:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/medusa-playfield-swap

Thanks for all the info guys

Is there a video on you tube or somewhere that explains how to play this game fully? Also I noticed some people have red drop targets at the top and some people have white, what is the original games come with?

SDTM has decent video that breaks down the ruleset. I can’t remember if PAPA ever did one? The upper drops should be white.

Okay thanks, No I don't see a tutorial on PAPA

Does anyone in here have an extra Medusa playfield window? If so, I’m your guy as I sure could use one. Also looking for any other Medusa parts to help with a scratch build. Like the upper light panel or some zipper flippers or a 7 slot memory drop bank. Anything really. Let me know what you got.

Build thread link incase anyone is interested...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/scratch-build-medusa-or-centaur-or-both

Thanks!

Anyone put the yoppsicle lights on one of these?

Yep, cleans up the the cramped mess this game is under the pf. I started using them on any game I re-do

Also, if they are too bright under a clear insert you can pull a frosted dome off a bulb u have layin around and glue it over the led

Could a kind Medusa owner please take a square on pic of the backbox light panel for me? I'm trying to make a light panel and need to know bulb placement. A nice square on pic I can scale up ought to do it. Thanks!

Hope these help.

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Awesome!!! Thank you!

Here is a pdf of Medusa's light panel for anyone interested in building their own. It's printable to E size paper.

Thanks a bunch Quench!

medusa light panel.pdf

Hello,

Just trying to get my Medusa working 100%.

Having an issue with the lower left pop, it is not scoring, and ergo not actuating. All the other switches work properly.

Leaf on the pop is good. I noticed kind of a cluster of wires on the white w/ brown from the bumper above it, and was wondering if anyone could get a close up shot of the switch wiring for the lower left bumper so I may confirm? TY

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Also found that the head is missing part of the hinge. long shot, but figured I'd check if anyone had the part.

Thank you for any help-

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I don’t ave the exact hinge part. I might have half a hinge that you would need to spot and drill the holes. Shoot me a pm

Koji,
Here is a picture of the wiring on my lower left pop bumper. Looks like it matches yours? I snapped a picture of the other side, showing the red wires as well.
Let me know if I can help out anymore.

My Medusa came without both of the backbox section of the hinges. If you come across some, let me know!
Also needing a couple of Bally coin boxes

-Trevor-

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Im sure you can find a like hinge at any hardware store. Its just a simple fixed pin hinge.

I would have thought so as well, but not the case with the hardware stores in my city. Perhaps just another difference between Canadian and US off-the-shelf availability.

If you’re looking, I believe they are technically called Slip Joint hinges, or Lift Off hinges.
There are options available online, but having an original slip into the existing holes is always nice.

Apparently they are pretty specific…who’d of guessed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/early-bally-ss-backbox-to-cabinet-hinges

Hi Trevor.

Any pics of the original coin box, or just as long as it fits? I might have some, but am in Canada.. not sure if that works for shipping, but if so I can check.

Thank you very much for the photos, perfect! Just wanted to confirm the wiring, and it's always easier to look at a working one with wire colours etc.

Thanks!

Koji (and others),
Here is the Bally coin box I am looking for.
My Viking came complete, my Paragon was missing the top, and both Medusa & Flash Gordon had nothing.
As for shipping from you, I’m in Calgary…so I expect it to be fairly reasonable. Let me know what you have!

Reach out if you need anything else to help diagnose that bumper.

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My medusa came with a sling arm instead of that unobtanium kickback post which just didn't work or look too good, but it gave the basic measurements to build from.

Here is the prototype kickback post. I was wondering why not model it without the post, and then just screw a real one on?

Still needs some more minor tweaks, but the first print was close enough to just make some adjustments to test the strength. Seems good, and I think having the post actually screwed into the model provides some extra durability (have to see). It's a bit different, as looking closely, it seems like for the actual part: ASE-2593-7, the post is perhaps 1/8" more forward, so the screw should not be possible.. but when installed, this one still seems reasonably well lined up in the playfield? Presume if I want it to look more original, maybe there is a better post to match, and cut off the screw head and give it a red cap... or just epoxy to the base.

I'll need to order some more transparent red filament, but I was thinking a red post light might work here as well. I'm pretty happy with the look.

Here's a video of it in action:

Some photos:

Thank you-

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Just FYI, Marcos sells a 3D printed part - might have even been a pinsider who modeled it and probably somewhere in this thread or the Fireball II thread:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-972-1

Yeah, I saw that one, I just got it in my head that I needed to use a real post. Looking at it now, it probably doesn't matter too much since the line of sight to the post is limited or above.

I do kind of like the idea of direct post lighting tho, that this mod would allow.

If there is interest, I will finish my adjustments and share the model.

Sorry man.. I checked, but could not find any like that.. just sys11 type.. :/

It was. I had a couple NOS examples and sent one to him to reproduce:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/resin-casting-pinball-parts-bally-kicker-post

Shout out for these awesome targets from BobLangelius .

Thank you for producing them and sending them to me. Super happy with them. My medusa is just a player's condition, but it's nice to put in some affordable upgrades, and just put some time in to make sure the machine is playing to spec.
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While I had bling on the brain, here's a quick video of the kickback post mod I ended up with:

So far so good in gameplay. with the LED in the middle, I am no longer able to use a screw through the 3D printed part, so the post is epoxied to the print. I'm not sure yet if there is a better way to mount it.. I was thinking of maybe trying to adjust the model to fit further up into the post creating a friction / mechanical fit. ATM, I needed to hollow out the post a bit.

Still it works, and I think it's kind of cool. I thought about trying it in plain red as well.

Managed to get some decent gameplay footage on YouTube.

Pretty fun when everything is working.

Thanks Bob. The part you had was perfect, and I was able to keep the original hinge base as well.

Really great to make this thing whole.. But excuse the bolts.. All I had handy in that thread.

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Six years ago I posted some pics of the zipper flipper crank/pawl wear on my game:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/medusa-owners-club/page/10#post-3913477

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Last year probably only 200-300 plays after those pictures were taken, a friend was playing and we heard a bang in the cabinet to find one of the plungers on the bottom of the cabinet and it's flipper crank hole blown out:

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There was no way I was going to install new parts that were just going to do the same thing with metal on metal wear so I made up a more traditional setup - before and after pics:

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Excuse the rusty cranks, I'm waiting on new ones to come in.
I made new links from some POM plastic, new metal idle end stoppers and new EOS switch brackets to move the switches closer to crank and higher from the base plate. The new plunger/links probably turned out to be similar spec to Stern gen 2 flippers. The crank/pawls are early solid state Bally.

Canada baby. Everything is Robbies...

The McMaster Carr part number for those hinges is 15195A21 (RT) and 15195A19 (LFT) You need to look at them and determein which side you need.

Bob

Just finished setting up my holiday lights!

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Does anyone know the correct part number for the three stand-up switches behind the seven drop-targets? The part number in the parts catalog is only the part number for the plastic target, not the whole switch.

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Did you make the metal idle end stoppers and EOS switch brackets? Or was there a part # you used? Looks like the coil 'shaft' is shorter. Was that from an existing rebuild kit? Looks like DE flipper rebuild kit parts almost.

Where do you find the POM plastic? Maybe even bakelite would work?

TIA.

PBR was all I could find close to the switches you showed. Don’t know if this helps…

https://www.pbresource.com/relay-BLY.html

You may just drop Lou a line and see if he can narrow them down for you. Good luck!

Yes I fabricated those metal brackets.

I bought a 300x300x3mm black sheet from AliExpress years ago:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32852877596.html
There's probably other sellers that are cheaper now.

I believe the grey plastic links used in DMD games is made of POM. Home roller door wheels are made of this material because of its high strength and low wear properties. I use it whenever making new flipper links now. Traditional Bakelite-fibre material could certainly be used otherwise.

The coil plunger/shaft has to be shorter since the original design didn't have a link. My parts seller was selling packs of ten so I don't know what brand/game the plungers are from.

I did spend time measuring to try and make sure the flipper travel was about the same as original and the link angle on the crank was about the same at both extremes.

For the metal brackets: how did you fabricate them?

They look like 1/8" cold steel.

Did you have them CNC'd? Do you have a drawing or CAD file of them?

TIA!

Nope, I crafted the metal parts the old fashioned way with a vice, hacksaw and hand-drill..

Has your game also suffered from severe wear on the cranks?

If I remember right the plunger and POM link are about the same size as those used on early Stern gen2 flipper assemblies. They can be used as a starting point. I looked at using Williams / Stern cranks but their arm length is short so stayed with using the previous gen Bally cranks.
The steel used was the same thickness as the original.
If you look at the third picture in my post above you'll notice the corner of the base plates are bent up a little so this needs to be taken into account when making the end stops so they sit flat.

If you're CNC'ing then you have the advantage of redoing parts if they don't turn out right.

Yeah my zipper flipper assy is pretty hacked up but looks largely complete. I can do some really basic 3d modeling.

I'm going to get into reassembling mine soon and will post info. Thx Quench!