(Topic ID: 65964)

Medusa Owners Club & Restorations Fans Also Welcome


By Hellfire

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 547 posts
  • 102 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 49 days ago by pinballshark
  • Topic is favorited by 38 Pinsiders

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There are 547 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 11.
#501 1 year ago

Just starting to work on my recently acquired Medusa and noticed that some of the rubbers were marked Seven Star 04200. Can't seem to find any information about these rubbers. I'm guessing that they are no longer produced. Anybody know anything about them? Thanks.

#502 1 year ago

I’m restoring my uncles Medusa, fun times. I’m in the middle of the project, things are going ok so far. Starting on the pf swap. Seems the t-nuts are too big and I have to drill out the holes to get them pounded in, also the top metal posts holes are too small and I’ve had to bore them out as well

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#503 1 year ago

Chosen_s and anyone else...... Could you share what exact colors and type of paints, you used to paint the cabinet and do the stencil? I'm a novice at painting and trying to figure the best way to go. Got the cabinet primed and ready to start the top cover painting. Thanks.

Oh and yes, I had to drill out some of the new playfield holes as well

#504 1 year ago

Has anyone installing the CPR reproduction playfield run into issues with fitting the "feature display assembly" (the long metal and plastic assembly with a bunch of lights behind and above the top drop target assembly) into place? The 9/16" thickness of the CPR playfield (compared to the original playfield ~1/2" thickness) coupled with the height of the playfield side and rear rails doesn't accommodate the space between the top and bottom edges of the metal bracket that makes up the feature display assembly. It looks like I'll either have to route out a recess on the bottom edge of the playfield to accommodate the ends of the bracket or trim the rear playfield rail - although I don't know if the display will bump up against the playfield posts, so the latter may not work.

#505 1 year ago

I opted to route out 1" x 4" x 1/16" deep recesses on the bottom of the playfield for the feature display assembly mounting bracket to allow it to fit properly with the CPR reproduction playfield. I'd recommend this to anyone doing a Medusa playfield - preferably BEFORE you do any assembly - so the feature display doesn't get pushed upward by the playfield side rails.

Looking back I wondered why the pop bumper mounting recesses were deeper on the CPR reproduction than the original - that should have sent up a red flag or three. Ah well ...

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#506 1 year ago

Mine went in fine no adjustment

1 week later
#507 1 year ago

Medusa update:

After a couple weeks of getting familiar with Medusa everything is now looking and working pretty good. Every once in awhile the second ball will not eject into the shooter lane but that happens very infrequently. Tried doing several things but have yet to come up with a solution.

Replaced one drop target. Bought and installed new coin mechs, coin windows, etc. Removed previous owner's freeplay switch. Resoldered a couple broken wires under the playfield (zipper flipper switch.) Cleaned playfield and replaced rubbers. Fixed sloppy lockdown bar lever and bought new playfield glass. Bought new Shield of the Gods assembly (from Flippers.com in Canada) but have not yet installed. Bought translucent targets but have not yet installed. At this point, I think I'll just play the game for awhile. It plays great! I thought the factory Mylar might be a problem but it isn't. Glad it was there all these years. Kept the playfield in great shape.

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1 week later
#508 1 year ago

Worked on my uncles Medusa this weekend, I’ve been restoring it and I’m just about done with the playfield swap.... kind of wish it was my game now, lol

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#509 1 year ago

If anyone is looking I placed a CPR GOLD Medusa playfield on the Market https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/63113

#510 1 year ago

When I rescued it from a basement it worked perfectly...everything worked! The MPU had all the corrosion on it and it quit...It would go through all the start up but would not eject a ball to start a game...i put a new altek ultimate mpu in and it worked...mostly...the upper left saucer wont eject when I get in it and when I hit that switch it triggers the ball eject switch into the shooter lane...also, all the lights up the right side (skillshot and all the ones near it) do not light up...i feel like it also is not making correct sounds and just generally acting strangely. I don’t know where to start really. I did change all the fuses on the board on the floor of the cab as well as the one on the underside of the pf...if there are more fuses I cant see them...please help

#511 1 year ago
Quoted from HamDandsome:

the upper left saucer wont eject when I get in it and when I hit that switch it triggers the ball eject switch into the shooter lane

Sounds like your Solenoid Expander isn't working. Go into Solenoid Test Mode and referencing the solenoid test numbers in the manual, take note of which solenoids activate at the wrong time.

Quoted from HamDandsome:

also, all the lights up the right side (skillshot and all the ones near it) do not light up...

These lamps are driven by the Auxiliary lamp driver board. Issue is likely related there.

Post a request for help thread in the "Tech: Early Solid State" sub-forum. There are more techs paying attention there.

#512 1 year ago

Hey fellas, I need a bit of help, the credit/ball display is testing perfect in test mode, but not displaying credits, it displays number of balls fine.

Any help?

#513 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Hey fellas, I need a bit of help, the credit/ball display is testing perfect in test mode, but not displaying credits, it displays number of balls fine.

Did you check Credit Display setting switch #27?

#514 1 year ago
Quoted from kursiv:

Did you check Credit Display setting switch #27?

Oh geez, I’ve been chasing wires for several days, I can’t believe I didn’t figure that out before. Thank you so much

3 weeks later
#515 1 year ago

quick question for you guys here, I just found a Medusa in a old warehouse here but very confused about the back glass it looks difference is it a fake or bootleg back glass? or is there something missing here?

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#516 1 year ago

Very interesting backglass, more pics would be nice. Does not look factory at all. Man, that game was let go, so dirty. Great game, best wishes to you.

#517 1 year ago
Quoted from igo4rams:

Very interesting backglass, more pics would be nice. Does not look factory at all. Man, that game was let go, so dirty. Great game, best wishes to you.

Looks home made but like you said ... hard to tell from the picture! The CPR Medusa backglasses are easily available if this one isn't to your liking!

#518 1 year ago
Quoted from meSz:

Looks home made but like you said ... hard to tell from the picture! The CPR Medusa backglasses are easily available if this one isn't to your liking!

OK thanks guys. I think i might pass on it, he wanted $500 CAN for it. New back-glass would cost as much or more than the machine.

#519 1 year ago

it's still a very good price for medusa

#520 1 year ago

If that thing is complete $500 is a great price. New playfield and backglass will set you back about $1,500. Likely to need a bunch of other parts too, assume plastics and other bits you could put $2,500 into it and still come out ahead... or keep it and have a great game. Wish I were closer I'd take it for $500.

#521 1 year ago
Quoted from mmarch1:

quick question for you guys here, I just found a Medusa in a old warehouse here but very confused about the back glass it looks difference is it a fake or bootleg back glass? or is there something missing here?

That’s not typical. Can you clean it off for better pics?

#522 1 year ago
Quoted from roar:

If that thing is complete $500 is a great price

I wouldn’t go as far as saying that! Keep in mind that the Medusa cabinet has partical board so if it’s in a damp warehouse the cabinet may also be toast. Also, the metal pieces could all have rust on them.

In short, need to open the game up and see what it looks like. If it comes down to just needing a pf and bg then I would buy it for 500$. Who knows the pf could be nice.

#523 1 year ago
Quoted from meSz:

I wouldn’t go as far as saying that! Keep in mind that the Medusa cabinet has partical board so if it’s in a damp warehouse the cabinet may also be toast. Also, the metal pieces could all have rust on them.
In short, need to open the game up and see what it looks like. If it comes down to just needing a pf and bg then I would buy it for 500$. Who knows the pf could be nice.

All that considered I’d still take a flyer on it for $500 CDN if it is complete. If it’s missing mechs then I’d be out.

#524 1 year ago
Quoted from roar:

All that considered I’d still take a flyer on it for $500 CDN if it is complete. If it’s missing mechs then I’d be out.

Yeah that would be the deciding factor (missing mechs)!

WAIT that is $387 USD......... go buy this thing!!!! lol

#525 1 year ago
Quoted from meSz:

Yeah that would be the deciding factor (missing mechs)!
WAIT that is $387 USD......... go buy this thing!!!! lol

I'm heading back next week with a truck, possible restore in near future! I'll post more pictures when I get the thing home. stay tuned! thanks for the feedback guys!

#526 1 year ago
Quoted from mmarch1:

I'm heading back next week with a truck, possible restore in near future! I'll post more pictures when I get the thing home. stay tuned! thanks for the feedback guys!

Good move mmarch1 ! I think worst case scenario, say the machine is more than you want to tackle in the way of restoring, I think you'll be able to at least get your money back plus a little more!

#527 1 year ago

My Medusa stopped playing the background music, but it still has the sound effects. Any ideas what it could be and what I should be testing?

#528 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

My Medusa stopped playing the background music, but it still has the sound effects. Any ideas what it could be and what I should be testing?

Check the volume pots on the S&T board. Could be a bad pot.

1 month later
#529 1 year ago

Help! I only have one remaining issue with my new Medusa. The game is so much fun I could probably ignore the issue and play it forever just the way it is, BUT...

When the game starts drop targets 2 and 4 are up. It's my understanding that only drop target 4 should be up at the start of the game. According to some of the Pinside research that I've done thus far this problem could be caused by a bad or missing diode on one of the games solenoids. I've not yet checked for missing or bad diodes but I will pretty soon.

After looking at the schematics which pertain to the 7 drop targets I realized that I don't have a very good understanding of how these particular drop targets work. Unlike the 4 drop target bank, the 7 drop target bank appears to have some sort of coil associated with each drop target.

Would someone please explain how these things work. Thanks.

#530 1 year ago
Quoted from rack-em-up:

Help! I only have one remaining issue with my new Medusa. The game is so much fun I could probably ignore the issue and play it forever just the way it is, BUT...
When the game starts drop targets 2 and 4 are up. It's my understanding that only drop target 4 should be up at the start of the game. According to some of the Pinside research that I've done thus far this problem could be caused by a bad or missing diode on one of the games solenoids. I've not yet checked for missing or bad diodes but I will pretty soon.
After looking at the schematics which pertain to the 7 drop targets I realized that I don't have a very good understanding of how these particular drop targets work. Unlike the 4 drop target bank, the 7 drop target bank appears to have some sort of coil associated with each drop target.
Would someone please explain how these things work. Thanks.

The multi-morphic drop target assembly used on some Bally games is a really neat piece of engineering. It has the usual reset coil (2 coils in the case of the upper drop target unit on Medusa) to reset all the targets so they are above the playfield, but each target also has a coil associated with it that can be operated by the game software to drop that target below the playfield (as if a ball hit it). If you watch the drop targets carefully when they are reset at the start of a ball, all targets will be above the playfield briefly, then the 3 outer targets on each side of the #4 target will quickly drop, leaving only the center (#4) target above the playfield.

If your #2 target is not dropping it could be due to a bad "drop" coil for that target, a bad driver transistor for that coil, or broken wiring as the most likely causes. Use the game diagnostics solenoid test function to listen for the #2 target drop coil clicking as the game cycles through the solenoids (solenoid number 4 is associated with the #2 drop target). (Page 13 of the game manual, available via www.ipdb.org, describes how to use the game diagnostics.)

#531 1 year ago

Thanks! The problem was indeed a wire broken off the #2 target coil. I may live with the problem for awhile since I see no good (easy) way to get in and solder it back.

2 weeks later
#532 1 year ago

Here's an update for side rails for the Medusa cabinet. I bought a set from Marco last month and they arrived with extra mounting holes on the right side. I sent them back for a refund. After being told that all the rails they have in stock have this problem, I was surprised to still see them for sale on their site. Buyer be warned...don't buy them unless you don't mind the extra holes.

Marco's for sale link: https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=P-921-76-77M

I attached some photos of the ones I received.

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3 months later
#533 11 months ago

Wow. Not a post here in 3 months. Has Medusa been forgotten?!

3 weeks later
#534 10 months ago

I have a question for the club members.

I did a pf swap on my medusa this past summer - looks terrific and plays great.

How fast does the ball need to be traveling to activate the times x bonus scoring on the left lane? I have to hit an almost perfect fast shot to activate the wire gates. In comparison, a mediocre shot to the right lane activates the wire gates bonus scoring. Maybe I need to adjust the switches?

Thanks,

Robert

#535 10 months ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

I have a question for the club members.
I did a pf swap on my medusa this past summer - looks terrific and plays great.
How fast does the ball need to be traveling to activate the times x bonus scoring on the left lane? I have to hit an almost perfect fast shot to activate the wire gates. In comparison, a mediocre shot to the right lane activates the wire gates bonus scoring. Maybe I need to adjust the switches?
Thanks,
Robert

Not that fast. I can activate mine with a weak shot that barely hits the second gate and rolls back down to the bottom flippers. I’d adjust the switches, though yours would only reward shots that fully lift the top gate, which is also a valid configuration, so long as every “made” shot registers.

1 month later
#536 8 months ago

Still have issues with the left lane. I cannot seem to keep the switches adjusted properly to advance X times scoring. I may just buy new leaf switches.

A second question for the club. When I hit 600,000 same player shoot again lights. If I stay on a scoring roll I can sometimes get shoot again 3-4 more times. Is this normal? I looked in the manual and could not find the shoot again threshold amounts.

Thanks

1 month later
#537 6 months ago

In picked up a super nice all original Medusa last weekend and I’m loving it. The only thing missing is the spinner decals. I did some googling and can’t seem to find a repro anywhere. Does anyone know if these are available or have a scan so I could get some printed?

4 weeks later
#538 5 months ago

I have a rules question about Medusa that I hope someone can help me on.

The spinner value indicators.

Are there other advance options other than the skill shot?

Are there rules/features that makes them go off/reduce the spinner value?

Are any of this dependent on adjustments?

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#539 5 months ago
Quoted from calico1997:

I got the CPR plastics from Bay Area Amusements. They are damn stinking dark. It makes me sad!!! Old vs. New shown below.

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I had bought and returned the same plastics for the same reason a few years ago.

Has anybody seen the latest Medusa plastics from CPR? Made from their new manufacturing? Are they any better?

1 week later
#540 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballshark:

I had bought and returned the same plastics for the same reason a few years ago.
Has anybody seen the latest Medusa plastics from CPR? Made from their new manufacturing? Are they any better?

I have a set, I needed a replacement for my left ball guide. They seem really nice to me but what specifically are you looking for?

#541 5 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I have a set, I needed a replacement for my left ball guide. They seem really nice to me but what specifically are you looking for?

Looking to see how opaque they are! The CPR ones, at least the ones I purchased, don't light up like the originals. See the below link for better understanding.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/medusa-owners-club/page/8#post-3577993

#542 5 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Looking to see how opaque they are! The CPR ones, at least the ones I purchased, don't light up like the originals. See the below link for better understanding.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/medusa-owners-club/page/8#post-3577993

I certainly didn't notice anything like that, I'll have another look and post a pic here for you.

#543 5 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I certainly didn't notice anything like that, I'll have another look and post a pic here for you.

Did you replace all of your plastics or just the Left Ball Guide? Be interesting to see a picture of you playfield if you only replaced the left guide as it would be apparent

#544 5 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Did you replace all of your plastics or just the Left Ball Guide? Be interesting to see a picture of you playfield if you only replaced the left guide as it would be apparent

Good news! The plastics seem to be very good matches with the originals.

Here's a pic with the left-ball-guide being new plastic and the rest stock:
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And here's a picture after I also changed out the scratched left sling plastic for the new replacement.
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Based on the photo the new plastics might be a hair brighter/more transparent than the originals (and also seem to be slightly higher definition/less blurry) but by eye-sight alone you wouldn't detect a difference.

#545 5 months ago

Thanks for posting the pictures of the new plastics. I finally got confirmation that these are okay and ordered a set.

2 months later
#546 83 days ago

Hello, doing a restore on Media, couple of questions for you guys that have restored one, do you know the part numbers or info on the 2 different size red star posts? There are taller ones and shorter ones under all the p ayfield plastics, are the roll over targets standard size? There are 3 yellow stand up targets on left side of playfield what part numbers are these? I have the 3 New translucent targets behind the upper drop targets but I would like to replace the entire target and switch so what part numbers work back there? Last Aretha 2 upper zipper flippers, part numberrs for these?
Any of this info would be awesome!!!

1 month later
#547 49 days ago

Malachai loves Medusa.

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