(Topic ID: 277800)

Medusa - Game won't start

By Lame33

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 19 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Lame33
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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Medusa_MPU-Board1.jpg
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IMG_0029a.jpg
CoinLockoutCoilA.jpg
coil (resized).jpg

#1 1 year ago

Just brought home a nice Medusa and everything is great except it is currently only a box of lights. Game worked great when I bought it, but it did not survive the ride home.

I turn it on and it starts up just fine. Lights come on, displays show up nicely, drop targets do their dance, has 18 credits (and I can add more), the ball is in the game, and the MPU LED flashes the right number of times.

Eagerly tap the button to start a game and....... nothing.

It's my first early SS Bally and so I look up how to get to the service menu (or Self Test) and hit that button.... Nothing happens.

I've tried all the obvious stuff except re-soldering connections. (checked for loose wires, checked fuses, reseated all the connectors on the boards, it has a remote battery and no acid damage, etc.)

Oddities:
I used to be able to make the game tilt, but that no longer works from any of the tilt mechanisms.

The solenoid on the coindoor was warm and noisy, so I clipped the wires to no positive effect.

Having both the self test menu and the game start button out simultaneously seems odd to me and I don't know if there is a correlation.

Suggestions welcome on any additional troubleshooting tips.

#2 1 year ago

The cabinet switch wiring (start button, coin switches, tilt, slam, self-test) goes back to the MPU board at connector J3 (lower right connector on the MPU board). Did it slip out on the trip or did you install it one position off key?

#3 1 year ago

On the coin lockout relay on door, did you clip both terminals? Make sure both of the thicker insulated wires ( yellow, brown, or red) are stripped and twisted together as they are part of a buss for coils.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from chad:

On the coin lockout relay on door, did you clip both terminals? Make sure both of the thicker insulated wires ( yellow, brown, or red) are stripped and twisted together as they are part of a buss for coils.

There's no daisy chaining of the wires on the coil lockout coil - each lug has a single wire. If left disconnected they must be insulated and isolated from everything else.
Personally I would just reconnect them to the coil - I like hearing it click during bonus countdown

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

The cabinet switch wiring (start button, coin switches, tilt, slam, self-test) goes back to the MPU board at connector J3 (lower right connector on the MPU board). Did it slip out on the trip or did you install it one position off key?

Thanks for the quick responses.

The connector is keyed and in the right position. I thought I was going to have to remove the backbox and was surprised when it folded down for transport. Until troubleshooting, I didn't have to remove any of those connectors.

Just so that I'm explaining things correctly. Here is a picture of the coil I clipped on the coin door as it was very warm and making too loud of a high pitched noise. I must admit to not being able to discern its function.

coil (resized).jpg

#6 1 year ago

My mistake, I thought there were 2 wires on one side.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Lame33:

The connector is keyed and in the right position. I thought I was going to have to remove the backbox and was surprised when it folded down for transport. Until troubleshooting, I didn't have to remove any of those connectors.

There's a rectangle block connector connecting the coin door to the cabinet harness - it's just inside the door on the left under the tilt mech. Make sure it's fully plugged in.

Quoted from Lame33:

Here is a picture of the coil I clipped on the coin door as it was very warm and making too loud of a high pitched noise. I must admit to not being able to discern its function.

The coil was heating up and making a loud noise because the latch has fallen out of place and the spring is pulling too hard in the wrong place. The coil is struggling to pull the latch.

CoinLockoutCoilA.jpg

Here's how it should be

IMG_0029a.jpg

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

There's a rectangle block connector connecting the coin door to the cabinet harness - it's just inside the door on the left under the tilt mech. Make sure it's fully plugged in.
[quoted image]

Yeah, I’ve tried that one a couple of times.

Thanks for the image on the spring. Makes much more sense. It was loose and that was my first guess on where it hooked.

#9 1 year ago

Last of the easy, yet unlikely, stuff I could think of has been tried, but cleaning contacts on the MPU and resoldering the self test button, credit button switch, and out hole switch had no positive effect.

I'm nonplussed why the self test menu, which could potentially help indicate the problem does not function. Any suggestions on a non-destructive way to bypass the switch and rig a way to toggle on the menu at the MPU board?

Is there some extra step to entering this self test menu on a Bally beside just tapping the button the I might be missing?

One thing I have noticed is the Neptune's Cove in the upper left will fire and kick the ball out. I'm guessing it's the one coil that needs to work before the game starts so the ball does not get stuck there. It also indicates that it's more then just the lights and drops that work.

#10 1 year ago

There is a way to use a jumper wire on one of the pins on the lower right of the MPU. Go from the pin to ground and it will go into self test. Havent done it in many years so I forgot which pin it is

#11 1 year ago

Ground j3 pin one to duplicate what the self test switch does.

#12 1 year ago

Post some pictures of the J2 and J3 connectors at the MPU board.

#13 1 year ago

I took some quick shots before running out of my house this morning and so they are not going to win any awards, but here they are. The MPU does do the proper 7 flashes and so I don't know if it's the board, but if you see anything I can act on, I appreciated the help.

PXL_20200921_121221668 (resized).jpgPXL_20200921_121225109 (resized).jpgPXL_20200921_121229473 (resized).jpgPXL_20200921_121233889 (resized).jpgPXL_20200921_121239117 (resized).jpgPXL_20200921_121259655 (resized).jpgPXL_20200921_121323130 (resized).jpgPXL_20200921_121327246 (resized).jpgPXL_20200921_121341105 (resized).jpg

#14 1 year ago

Looks to me like you've got battery corrosion on the J3 pin header particularly the top pins (pin 1 is for the coin door self test button).
The right way to deal with it is to replace the pin headers.
Note the corrosion is probably also inside the female connector.

For now, inspect the pin header and remove the corrosion best you can to confirm it's the problem.

#15 1 year ago

I don't think that is corrosion in the lower right of the board by the Bally logo. I believe it's foam sticker label residue.

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Lame33:

I don't think that is corrosion in the lower right of the board by the Bally logo. I believe it's foam sticker label residue.

Umm, I said the corrosion was around the top of the J3 pin header, not the Bally logo. Take a close look at the board:

Medusa_MPU-Board1.jpg

#17 1 year ago

While they make me feel like a moron with limited reading comprehension, I do appreciate your visual aids. Thanks again.

I was so fixated on the battery area for no reason, that I completely and inexplicably misread your accurate observation of where I should be looking.

Thanks. I will focus on that area when I have access to the game.

#18 1 year ago

Sorry I probably should have posted that picture first to pinpoint it.
Carefully check those J3 pins for corrosion and if there's any there try and scrape or sand paper it off. Note this will probably just be a short term fix but hopefully should get you going. There's likely some corrosion inside the J3 connector.

There's potentially corrosion around the bottom of the J2 pin header and around the J4 pin header.
Long term those pin headers should be replaced and probably the connectors too.

#19 1 year ago

I know all of Pinside has been at the edge of their seats desperate for news of the state of my Medusa... and IT LIVES!!!!

Seventy gazillion internet points to Quench for rolling much higher on his perception check that I did and noticing the corrosion on the J3 MPU pins and taking the time to help an obnoxious stranger.

The game once again plays as nicely as it did when I tested it before purchase.

Thank you all for the help! I can now Challenge Medusa.

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