Looking great!
Skins, could you please tell us which glazing puddy you used on the cabinet?
Quoted from Chosen_S:Looking great!
Skins, could you please tell us which glazing puddy you used on the cabinet?
Sorry I missed it the first time you asked.
Lightweight filler: Evercoat rage gold
Glazing putty: Dynatron (made by 3M) glazing & spot putty
Quoted from Skins:Sorry I missed it the first time you asked.
Lightweight filler: Evercoat rage gold
Glazing putty: Dynatron (made by 3M) glazing & spot putty
Boom! Thank you!
Quoted from Skins:Final coin door pictures I swear.
It looks like you forgot the little flap in the coin return cage..... You need to take everything apart to install it.
It happened to me a a couple of times... it hurts.
Yves
Nope. Didn't forget. I never re-install them. I don't like the looks. Same with the guard around the start switch on the inside.
Quoted from Skins:Backbox cards made and installed in the head.
Skins What was your approach for recreating these? Did you scan and clean up, or were they available for download somewhere? Thanks!
Quoted from xeneize:skins What was your approach for recreating these? Did you scan and clean up, or were they available for download somewhere? Thanks!
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/
Download and email the file to a local print place (I have used FedEx Office Print & Ship Center) and tell them to print them out on "card stock"! Your printer may be able to print card stock so that would be first thing to check!
Quoted from xeneize:skins What was your approach for recreating these? Did you scan and clean up, or were they available for download somewhere? Thanks!
Quoted from meSz:http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/
Download and email the file to a local print place (I have used FedEx Office Print & Ship Center) and tell them to print them out on "card stock"! Your printer may be able to print card stock so that would be first thing to check!
Yes, that's where I got them. Inkochnito is a huge asset to the community. The resources he provides is invaluable. I use card stock and my house printer and trim to size. They look fantastic. Much better than the tattered, yellowed originals.
Quoted from xeneize:Have to admit, this thread has made me want to throw down on my own Cameo 3...
I love mine. My only regret is not buying it sooner. Stencils on demand. Who wouldn't love that.
On to more cabinet parts painting. Nearing the end. IMG_3359 (resized).JPG
Wow she looks great man, cabinet turned out killer. You should put back in the red transparent flippers buttons and led them and please tell me you have a gold ball for it!
Quoted from Captive_Ball:Skins...If I may.....I think your flipper buttons/housings from Pinsider Zitt would match better than the standard red currently on the machine. Fantastic work you are doing.
Thank you. Those are the old housings and buttons. I needed them installed to get the side rails centered and lined up properly. I intended on putting in new ones. I agree, zitts translucent housings/buttons would look great.
Superb work.
Just make sure you get strong help when inserting the playfield into that beautiful cabinet. It is too heavy to be done by one single man.
Yves
This weekends major task before heading to expo next week.
IMG_3382 (resized).JPG
Custom stencils for the Apron. I'm in line for a repro as well so it gives me the freedom to experiment. My angle was slightly off so I have to redo it but in the end I plan to replace the pinstriping with the cabinet border. So close on the angle, like 2-4 degrees off. Oh well gives me more practice with the cameo software.
I could have put it on but intentional took all the crap cluttering up the Apron. I was considering leaving off the extra flipper text too. I wanted clean and simple just like the cab is.
Quoted from Skins:I could have put it on but intentional took all the crap cluttering up the Apron. I was considering leaving off the extra flipper text too. I wanted clean and simple just like the cab is.
I like the idea behind this custom artwork. I would have kept the Bally logo, but that is a matter of taste and design
On the other hand I'm wondering why the Medusa logo is so much off centre? Is that on purpose?
Quoted from g94:On the other hand I'm wondering why the Medusa logo is so much off centre? Is that on purpose?
It’s not so much. I’m not pulling a tape measure out again either. The Apron isn’t symmetrical at the v. If you see I had the medusa farther to the left in the monitor screen shot of my stencil mock-up to center it up with the “v” of the boarder. That put it too far off on the Apron between the Apron card depressions. The placement is a comprimise between being centered on the boarder v and between the Apron cards.
Just getting caught up from expo. I have been pretty busy so I’m able to finally get back to medusa.
Time to tackle reclearing the cpr playfield. The existing clear was pretty bad. The veneer seams are visible as well as heavy graining. As it sat before sanding.
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Sanded and ready to be shot with clear.
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Clear laid down. Once it’s sat, I’ll sand and level and shoot it once more. 6ED027E4-1680-4FBA-BE8B-B705FFA2D7CF (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Chosen_S:Very cool, shooting clear is soooo satisfying
Yes sir.
Block sanded and leveled a second time. Some inserts still ever so slightly sunken.
89E6BB64-F362-4019-96C9-1305A90A06DC (resized).jpeg83A341CE-BDFE-4F5C-BD67-A95618F91913 (resized).jpeg
Second coat laid down nicely. I think I may need one more coat for the inserts but I’ll know better after block sanding. As it stand now it’s 100% better than the stock clear it had.
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Quoted from Captive_Ball:Like the Star Restorations you added on the playfield for under the apron...nice touch
So it was sunny enough to get a good look at how it looks now. I can still see slight depressions at some of the inserts. I’ll sand and level it this afternoon and see how it looks after that. My guess is it will need one more coat. The playfield has not been sanded, leveled, cut and polished yet in the pictures.
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A comparison picture of what the inserts looked before I started working on the playfield.
Looks really good. Amazing how much cpr's playfields can be improved by blocking and re-clearing. Night and day.
Thanks guys.
You’re right @bam10, I know the cpr clear is production but man it was pretty bad on this one. Those inserts would have been chewed up in no time like that.
So in the end, I decided to sand and shoot another coat. You can see in the pictures there is still slight depressions at some of the inserts. That would have only gotten worse over time as it continued to cure out. It’s a shame because it’s damn pretty. Oh well, more sanding and spraying to come.
B71EF4F0-6498-4007-A658-665F0F14A6D8 (resized).jpeg
That machine is going to be really fast. The original playfield is very fast in the bottom section (physical plane or the land of humans) but with your special clear coating, it is going to be so zippy, it may become unplayable. It should be very interesting.
Yves
So I have let the clear set for nearly two weeks. I’m going to sand and shoot one more coat this weekend. I got a nice (and expensive) tool to shoot my clears with in the mail today. Guns are subjective but other than the $900 Sata jet’s, this one is high on many people’s list of top end auto clear guns. Time will tell.
A5520623-36EF-4FB3-B2C2-5C1639334393 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from TKDalumni:Is this finished??
Nope. I put it aside to work on a restore for someone else. I’m not sure when I’ll get back into it.
Man this looks great where do you guys find the time to do this kind of stuff? Lol Must be retired or something.
Quoted from bam10:Looks really good. Amazing how much cpr's playfields can be improved by blocking and re-clearing. Night and day.
It makes you wonder why CPR's aren't done like this when you consider what they cost.
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