(Topic ID: 193184)

Medusa ~ A Restoration To Please The Gods


By Skins

2 years ago



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  • 295 posts
  • 50 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by PinballMikeD
  • Topic is favorited by 57 Pinsiders

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There are 295 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 6.
#1 2 years ago

So it's time to start transitioning from my Flash Gordon restoration to my next project. I was going to go with fathom but after setting it up, it's going to take some work getting it playing. On the other hand, Medusa is 100% playing.

This one came from aurich out in sunny California. I have some modest (compared to my Flash Gordon) customizations in mind. My biggest hurdle is deciding on powder coating colors. Gold/bronze has been done so I was hoping to go in a new direction. In the end I may do gold as well since it lends itself to that color so well.

As she sits:

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And with the playfield out of the cabinet and into the rotisserie. Man oh man Bally packed this game to the gills. Quite the state of the art game for its time.

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#2 2 years ago

Looking forward to following along. Hope I can pickup one of these some day.

#3 2 years ago

The deconstruction of the cabinet begins.
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...and empty:

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Starting of the process of glueing the cabinet back together. The necks are always separated and this one took it pretty badly over the last 30 plus years.

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#4 2 years ago

Working on a nasty chip in the head. About a 1/2" thick 1"x2.5" in size. Too much for bondo. Out comes the resin. I had never worked with resin so thanks to vid1900 for his detailed instructions on how to set big voids.

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Custom rails in the works at the fabricator and some gold & bronze samples are in their way from prismatic powders.

#5 2 years ago

Forms removed. It was still a touch tacky so I'll wait to sand and shape it this afternoon, hopefully. IMG_2600 (resized).JPGIMG_2601 (resized).JPG

#6 2 years ago

Nice!!! Following......

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

How is your backglass?

At fist glance, good I think. From memory, no noticable missing ink or bubbling. It's a nips/toe version, lol. I say that but I glanced over my Flash Gordon back glass back when I got it and thought it was perfect when I was wrapping up that restore and it wasn't. I'll have to check again; you got me wondering now.

Quoted from AUKraut:

Nice!!! Following......

Thank you.

#9 2 years ago

Following

#10 2 years ago

That brings back a lot of old memories, when I restored completely my Medusa about 12 years ago. It is a fantastic game and with a very rich list of features. You will not regret putting some extra care into that machine.

Yves

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcane:

That brings back a lot of old memories, when I restored completely my Medusa about 12 years ago. It is a fantastic game and with a very rich list of features. You will not regret putting some extra care into that machine.
Yves

It's an unbelievably cool game with so many quirky things. Add to a beautiful art package (I love Kevin o'conners early Bally stuff) and it's a no-brainer to restore.

So the resin is cured enough to sand and shape. It turned out fabulous. When painted it will be unnoticeable. With the size of the void, the resin will be way more durable than bondo.
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#12 2 years ago

So the resin worked so well I decided to do some more smaller chips and veneer damage. I regrettably forgot to get a before picture but you can see the size and depth of the void. I feel more secure in the durability of resin repair corners than packing bondo in them.

Form set and resin poured.
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Form removed and resin set and cured in just about an hour.
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Sander and shaped. Good as new and unnoticeable after paint and hard as the original wood.

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#13 2 years ago

Looking good. Medusa is a great game!

#14 2 years ago

So I got my samples of powder in. Not super excited by any of them. The dark bronze is out as well as the translucent gold (I think). I'm going to think on it some more and go from there. Thoughts?

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Quoted from Skypilot:

Looking good. Medusa is a great game!

Thanks man I appreciate it.

#15 2 years ago

What is the resin product?

#17 2 years ago

Thanks.

#18 2 years ago

Rear panel next. Turned out out ok, not as perfect as the last two. The pressed board rear panel soaked up the moisture and swelled some. That caused some lifting when I sanded. Not make or break; it just caused more work. I have to now fill the low as well as lifted spots with bondo. Structurally, it's still 100x stronger than packing it with bondo so in the end a success. The resin also leached more than I would have liked under the flashing at the bottom panel. Again, not life shattering as I sand these smooth, over glaze and seal. It just causes more work sanding it down. I still have more sanding on the inside lip but I am going to left the pressed board dry out some more to hopefully minimize any more lifting.

Chewed up panel before:IMG_2629 (resized).JPGIMG_2628 (resized).JPG

Forms in place: IMG_2632 (resized).JPG

Pouring resin:
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Forms removed. Resin cured. You can see the bleed:

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Shaped:

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#19 2 years ago

I also got the rails dropped off for a custom cut. He has updated waterjet software that now allows him to scan images and reproduce the cuts exactly as scanned. Since the sides don't have the game name anywhere on them, I opted to cut the rails with the logo without the Bally.
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#20 2 years ago

First round of filling and sanding done. Humidity is playing hell with my kick times on catalyzed products. Couple more rounds of filling and sanding and it will look like glass. IMG_2647 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#21 2 years ago

I'm in Pittsburg for replayfx so minimal updates this weekend. I did get my test rail mock-up back. It looks great but I want it to be a little longer. I think it will look sweet when done.

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#22 2 years ago

So I decided to come home early. I had a package from amazon I've been waiting to try out. I'm tired of messing with bondo to fill the open grain and gouges. It spreads like crap and sands even worse. I started looking for alternatives to bondo and come up with this. It seems to get pretty good reviews.
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No more pink, now its baby shit green.

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I spreads like butter, has a consistent cure time and sands 100% better than bondo. It's not cheap at all but well worth the price since I have two more cabs to go after this one.

#23 2 years ago

Always dig your restore threads, might have to try that Evercoat stuff...In the middle of bondo hell this weekend myself, there has to be a better way.

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from BR80:

Always dig your restore threads, might have to try that Evercoat stuff...In the middle of bondo hell this weekend myself, there has to be a better way.

Thank you. I'm liking it so far. Bondo is shit and spreads even worse.

Getting closer to getting done on the outside. Hard to tell how bad the neck was now that it's almost done. I still have to second coat a few corners.
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Cleaning off the excess 30 years old glue from the blocking at the bottom panel. I found heating up a putty knife was enough to soften the glue enough to pop free with out damaging the pressed board bottom.

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#25 2 years ago

Try Halftime bondo.
And West System epoxy resin.
You will thank me.
Jerry

#26 2 years ago

I have half time glazing putty on the way in the mail. It should be here Tuesday. I'll have to check out the resin.

#27 2 years ago

So I have been sanding the bottom on the inside. There are (were) a couple bad stains. More so at the cash box area. I got most of that out but the two small areas to the left and right were atrocious. This area is next to impossible to sand; even by hand. I can't stand to leave it like that...

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So I pulled the bracing out that forms the cash box to get access to sand the floor.

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And both removed. EasyIMG_2679 (resized).JPGIMG_2678 (resized).JPG

Lunch break then sanding, brace replacement and I can move on to the next item.

#28 2 years ago

Next up is sealing the bottom. One more thing checked off. Slowly but surely.IMG_2681 (resized).JPG

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#29 2 years ago

Looking good- excellent progress. Curious if your still enjoying the new filler. I gave up on bonds a while ago and use an expensive 3M filler that comes in a big toothpaste like container- it's awesome stuff but so expensive I could see being into three or more tubes or more for a cabinet and each is something like 20-30 bucks.

I am unfamiliar with reference to halftime bondo... but if it's related to Bondo and the cure is twice as fast I have zero interest. I want something I can work a bit longer- bondo sucks balls in so many ways.

#30 2 years ago

I have been happy with the new filler. The reviews make it sound like it is clog free which it's not. It does clog up the sand paper to a certain extent but not even a fraction of what bondo does. Its big plus is the spreadable nature. It's like buttering bread. It also (the few times so far) has had very consistent kick times. I'm better able to gauge my usage against my available time to minimize waste with cure product on my mixing board. I will never go back to bondo. In fact, I pitched a 3/4's full gallon pail of bondo. It's just not worth the headache.

The half time glazing putty isn't a bondo product from what I can tell. It got rave reviews amongst the auto restores community (as did the rage filler). time will tell. It's supposed to be here today. I'm hoping to get into it this weekend.

#31 2 years ago

I went by the Sherwin-Williams auto paint store today. I used the red of the playfield as my match to the cabinet. Who would have thought this box would be over $300. Thank fully I had reducer for some of the colors left over from the last game as well as the clear. IMG_2753 (resized).JPGIMG_2752 (resized).JPG

I got a pint sample of a gold I like. I wanted to break away from the color scheme most often picked for this game but in the end, sometimes the right scheme is the right scheme for deep red/maroon and gold it is.

#32 2 years ago

I sent the game to the right place, does my heart good to see it getting such great attention!

#33 2 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I sent the game to the right place, does my heart good to see it getting such great attention!

Thanks man. I bought it based on the awesome Kevin O'Connor art. I had never played it before. I absolutely love it's unique layout. Delightful game.

Cash box being rebuilt. IMG_2758 (resized).JPG

#34 2 years ago

The joy of masking tight small areas begins...IMG_2760 (resized).JPG

#35 2 years ago

And all done masking everything off. I can now move on to sanding and filling the interior of the side panels.

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#36 2 years ago

So you like blue tape

#37 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

So you like blue tape

Yeah. Masking paper just doesn't hold up for the duration of me working on the interior of the cabinet. I use masking paper on the exterior side of the bottom where the wear and tear of the restoration process is minimal.

#38 2 years ago

Good progress! Very nice, subscribing.

#39 2 years ago

YES to the blue TAPE! Many times its easier in the long run to tape everything off rather than use some cheap ass bit of paper that gets ripped/wet/mangled and is a huge PITA because you keep fixing it and eventually end up with mostly tape anyway! Blue tape is great!

#40 2 years ago

Surprised you just didn't replace the bottom considering how fast/cheap/good-looking it is.

#41 2 years ago

The original cleaned up nicely. I would say 90% of new. I don't like destroying the lock mitre joint if I don't have to.

#42 2 years ago

I was wrongly under the impression half time was a glazing compound. It is in fact a light weight filler. My mistake. So it looks like I am at a stop until I can get a glazing compound. Then I can final sand to get it silky smooth and get a prime coat on it so I can see what needs more filling.

#43 2 years ago

I shifted gear to the head while I wait for some glazing putty.

Removing everything. I forgot to get a picture of the head with the foil cardboard grounding panel removed.

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I already rebuilt the right side corners with resin. The left is/was worse. This cabinet head has lived a rough life.

Forms set
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Forms removed
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#44 2 years ago

Awesome thread! Following!

#45 2 years ago

Not much in the way of exciting updates but it is documenting the process. So, as I stated before, the left side of the head was really chewed up. I set the corners the other day since they were such big fills. Yesterday I went about fixing the edge joining the two corners.

Sanded and prepped:

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Formed and poured:
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Forms removed:

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Sanded and shaped. Nice new crisp 90 degree corner that is not going to chip.

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#46 2 years ago

Looks good.

What's the glazing putty for? Never used it.

#47 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Looks good.
What's the glazing putty for? Never used it.

It is a thin material,usually a single component light spot filler. It's not for structurally filling holes and large depressions. It's used to spot small blemishes overlooked or accentuated after priming. Since it spreads so thin, I do one round after two part filling along with my final sand and then again after sand the first coat of primer. This picture from a previous restoration shows how the grain opened back up on my last game when the primer hit the wood. Before priming, it was completely smooth. The glazing putty allowed me to fill these small voids easily. For reference, the splitting you see is roughly the width of a grain of rice. IMG_0409 (resized).JPGIMG_0410 (resized).JPG

#48 2 years ago

Continuing with the left side. This side must have had prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. The veneer is severely planked and splitting. I brushed a layer of resin across the whole face, allowing it to seep under and fill the splits in the veneer. I also puddle filled the major gouges and chipping.

Before:
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Resin applied:

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#49 2 years ago

Are you going to keep the serial number EME 1_83?

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