The one in Benton must be prototype #1 because production #1 is in my basement.

No, those are not in my basement.

Ghost hunter, you're breaking my heart!

You can still do this if you're willing to DIY a little and use a Pin2DMD LED display. This probably isn't the thread to talk about it, so if you want to post in either the DMD thread or the main AMH, I'm sure we can help you figure it out.

I couldn't stand the thought of having my lame ramp roof in my game once Medisinyl kit arrives. I had to up my game, and Medisinyl was kind enough to tell me how he finishes the parts. After doing one small part, I'm do not envy the amount of work he will have to do create all of these kits.

Anyway, here is before and after, anxiously awaiting the day when I can install the kit.

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I'd say not necessary. Most people don't have anything there. On my game, if I hit the jump ramp super solid, the ball would fly over the ramp and hit the side of the cabinet.

That's 2% of the entire run, right there.

It's not like that's complex artwork to try to mimic, but I'm pretty sure I have the source files for that backboard graphic in the stuff Ben sent me.

I did end up using the backboard art and making eyes for mine. Print this actual size, and it fits.

Ghost_Eyes.pdf

Hmmm... My game had a post and nut in the back middle that blocked the left end of the key shelf. I don't see it on any other pictures here, but check for it and remove prior to starting install, if you have it. Of course, all of those posts are just screwed into the playfield and lock nuts cause them to back out. The back wall overlapped the plastic slightly, and since I had already taped it in place, I didn't want to remove the wall and compromise the tape. I completely removed the backboard.

Replacing the nuts again caused the posts to spin and messed up the height of the plastic. I ended up pulling the nylon out so they still look like lock nuts, but don't twist the posts underneath. Things started going more smootly after that, but I'm wiped out, and I'm going to stop for the evening. It's looking great so far.

I ran into a couple more differences with my game, and I have a question. First, my habitrail was slightly different, and it interfered with the left side of the morgue. I reshaped the habitrail.

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Now, the morgue is sitting a bit crooked. I'm measuring 28.5 mm from the playfield to the top of the plastic on the left side and 34.5 mm on the right. It looks like it would fit better if the left side was a bit lower. Is anyone else willing to take a couple of measurements?

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Thanks. I'm in no rush, and I'd much rather figure out the difference than to force anything. There have been a good number of differences in this game as compared to the later ones.

Edit: I do have the filament and stain if that's what it takes. I'd rather make my game match if possible, but if it's big changes to that left guide stack, a mod tweak may be the right approach.

Your measurements compared to mine would account for 2mm of tilt/lean. If I measure from playfield to the top of the door opening, the left is 3mm higher than the right. So, that kinda makes sense. There are a bunch of ways I could adjust the door in the frame once it's square. I would kinda like some clearance from the playfield anyway.

I played around with lifting the right side of the mod, and that wasn't very effective. I think dropping the left would probably work better, but it would require shortening that wall of the mod or using shorter standoffs under the rail plastic. I'll think more on that before doing anything.

The lean on mine seems very similar to boustrophedonic, and the playfield to door gap is very close to dnapac's 1mm.

Anyway, I really appreciate the support, and I'm sure we'll sort it out. I think I'm done looking at it for this evening.

Ugh. I decided to go ahead with the hellavator installation, and I guess my dimensions are different here as well. The holes in the mod are slightly wider spacing than the plastic in the game. I could still install if I didn't use the plastic, but I fear that would affect the movement due to rail spacing.

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Production #1.

I tried installing without the clear plastic, and the hellavator does still move OK. I'm not sure if that would have any impact on airballs. I might try to make a wider clear plastic replacement to avoid the potential airball issue.

Edit: What's the saying? In for a penny, in for a pound. I was looking a little closer, and my right channel is broken. I kinda wanted them to match anyway. Did you print that wood filament with a 0.4mm nozzle, or did you use 0.6mm like the manufacturer suggests? I have a 0.6mm nozzle, but I'm wondering if that will affect the hellavator channels in any way. I'm going to pull up the model now to see if there are any details that the 0.6mm nozzle might affect.
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I guess we'll see how a 0.6 nozzle and 0.3 height works. I wanted to start something before running some errands, and I didn't want to clog the nozzle. I'm fully expecting to have to sand the channels to make it run smooth.

Speaking of clogs, sorry to clog the thread with my weird problems.

Edit: They came out pretty nice. I'm going to have to clean up the screwholes. They're small, as usual for printed stuff. It's tough to tell with the pieces loose on the bench, but the hellavator car moves pretty smoothly without any rail touchups. Hopefully I can get this installed today and move forward with the mod. I'm super excited to see this thing lit up.20211122_200245 (resized).jpg

Oh, and Greg, never doubt yourself. This mod is incredible, an while it's the only one I've seen in person, the others are great as well. Making mods is certainly a labor of love.

I finished my installation late last night, and I thought I'd take some pictures to let you guys know I survived. The hellavator rails work great with only the screwholes needing rework.

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I tried to pull off the trim on the morgue as Medisinyl suggested, but I chickened out. The wall it's attached to is somewhat thin, and the print layers run in the direction I'm trying to break the trim loose. It was taking more force than I wanted to put on it.

I would agree. All the other pictures I've seen do have a plastic protector on the right, just maybe not as thick as yours. That would be maybe 1mm of the difference max, I'd think.

Edit: As I look at all these doors, it looks like all of them except mine and dnapac have cool looking bent and rusty bars. I'm also thinking I might be able to add some color (ragged bottom edge, window frame, hinges, etc) using filament changes at the right points.

Edit 2: OMG, that's just brown insulated wire.

Capture (resized).PNG

I'm still planning to try this once I get settled back in after being out of town. I did get around to printing this, though.

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We had a guest today who is not a pinhead, but does really like games. She played all of our pins, then declared AMH her favorite. Her reason, "So much detail". I think the mod really nails the spooky vibe, and it makes the game click that much more.

I finally found the time and nerve to pop the trim off. I held the cutters toward the side of the machine and twisted clockwise, and it did come off pretty cleanly. The morgue sits better and has a little gap between the mod and plastic.

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Yes, mine had that post.

Like you, I didn't realize it was in the way until after the back panels had been placed. I couldn't remove the plastic because the back panels trapped it. I had to remove the entire backboard piece.

Good call. I did the same, taking a break after resolving that issue. There was more involved, like the post was not vertical. It was driven in at an angle and bent upward to align with the hole in the plastic. With yours being one of the early ones, you might be able to use some of the other information I posted while installing mine.