(Topic ID: 97116)

medieval madness troll

By Johntraw

9 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by Johntraw
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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236512-i.jpg
#1 9 years ago

I recently acquired this machine and have no experience with it. The left troll head takes a sledge hammer hit to register a hit. I am assuming the switch is dirty or needs adjusting. I dont see an obviously easy way to get to the switch. Any suggestions would be helpful.

#2 9 years ago

The switch is behind the troll

remove the pin from underneath on the plunger and unplug and you can remove that assy

#3 9 years ago

Lift up the troll manually, then remove the clips on the troll door with pliers or something. The clips, 2 springs and the troll door should pop off. Remember how they were installed or look uo the manual to put it back.

Then disconnect the three connectors under the playfield (troll hit switch, upper limit switch and coil), and completely screw off the assembly, it should come right off.

Then you have all room to get it fixed, methinks.

#4 9 years ago

Ahh. Thought the thread was about tiki...but I guess that would be "MMr Troll".

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from FreeBee:

Lift up the troll manually, then remove the clips on the troll door with pliers or something. The clips, 2 springs and the troll door should pop off. Remember how they were installed or look uo the manual to put it back.
Then disconnect the three connectors under the playfield (troll hit switch, upper limit switch and coil), and completely screw off the assembly, it should come right off.
Then you have all room to get it fixed, methinks.

This is pretty much what you do not want to do. The trolls come out from the bottom very easily. From the top, its a nightmare trying to hassle with spring loaded e-clips. You can expect that stuff to twang away. Definitely go at it from the bottom.

#6 9 years ago

Like markmon say, when you remove the 4 screws under the playfield the assembly is loose, turn the whole assy 90 degrees, tilt it somewhat and the troll-flap can pass the playfield.
Don't remove the clips on the playfield !!!

#7 9 years ago

I did this exact shop job. Markmon and Thor are completely correct. I took out the left troll from the bottom of the play field. Had to maneuver the troll mechanism to fit the metal plate through the top of the play field hole. Replaced the switch because my troll was the same way. It took a really hard hit to register a shot. Also replaced the troll head since I had the mechanism apart.

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

This is pretty much what you do not want to do. The trolls come out from the bottom very easily. From the top, its a nightmare trying to hassle with spring loaded e-clips. You can expect that stuff to twang away. Definitely go at it from the bottom.

I removed mine by taking out the clips. I lifted the trolls, put something in to hold the troll in the "up" position, then used a needle nose plier to pull the retaining clips while holding the parts. Didn't have a single part go flying in a quasi-random direction.

I never tried disconnecting and rotating to clear the flap through the hole. Interesting concept that I need to try because after reading this thread and thinking to myself "wow - I've never had a 'hit' problem with my trolls" I went home and played a game and now my left troll is doing the same friggin' thing. Someone shot me some bad pinkarma energy there.

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from wiggy07:

I did this exact shop job. Markmon and Thor are completely correct. I took out the left troll from the bottom of the play field. Had to maneuver the troll mechanism to fit the metal plate through the top of the play field hole. Replaced the switch because my troll was the same way. It took a really hard hit to register a shot. Also replaced the troll head since I had the mechanism apart.

If you've got the troll heads and mechanism out anyhow, why not do this mod:

236512-i.jpg236512-i.jpg

That's my machine (castle is out because I was working on the castle mod at the time which is in now too). They were easy to do and put in. If you don't want to build them, I can build them for you. Makes a big difference in the look of the game, IMHO

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Ahh. Thought the thread was about tiki...but I guess that would be "MMr Troll".

I thought the OP was talking about hondanut

#12 9 years ago

Keith, the mods look good. I am not motivated at all to take everything apart unless its broken. lol. When I am in the mood that's probably when I will tackle the troll mod. Thanks for the mod link.

#13 9 years ago

The plunger holding the carriage has a bolt holding the carriage on. Unplug the troll switch, remove the bolt, slide the whole troll carriage up and out, turn a little to clear parts.

Then easy to clean, adjust, solder wires, etc.

Reassemble the opposite way.

Left side loosen the habitrail and move over for room.

LTG : ) ™

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

This is pretty much what you do not want to do. The trolls come out from the bottom very easily. From the top, its a nightmare trying to hassle with spring loaded e-clips. You can expect that stuff to twang away. Definitely go at it from the bottom.

These are not the usual clips that are indeed a hassle to remove and jump everywhere. The clips for the troll flaps are much easier to take out without them jumping everywhere. Done it myself lately because we are swapping a playfield on a MM.

I just mentioned this because it makes working on the trolls so much easier by taking it all out of the game, and it takes away the danges of accidently damaging your playfield or similar stuff you do not want to happen to the game.

#15 9 years ago

First of all thanks for all the advice. I just got back in town. I think I have attempted a hybrid fix. I took the under the playfield part/solenoid/shaft loose, removed the ramp and lifted the troll head assembly above the playfield. I examined the switch and it looks fine. I cleaned the points and they were not excessively dirty. Further examination shows that the troll head is cracked almost completely around the impact area that attaches to the switch. I am attempting to glue this area using super glue which I know will not hold. I am assuming this is the main source of my problem. I will order two replacement troll heads today. I may try messing with the clips just so I can make an intelligent comment on that method. Again thanks to the community for the suggestions.
A side note. This unit must have already had a mod done on the eyes in the past but that does not seem to be anyway related to the issue at hand.

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