(Topic ID: 181069)

Medieval Madness PF High level restoration


By F-2NIRO

3 years ago



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  • 43 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by F-2NIRO
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20170909_210424 (resized).jpg
caméo (resized).jpg
mask 3M (resized).jpg
u pol (resized).jpg
vecto MM (resized).jpg
pebeo strong (resized).JPG
pebeo light (resized).JPG
casque (resized).jpg
bouclier (resized).jpg
blason (resized).jpg
DSC06275_moyenne (resized).jpg
DSC06276_moyenne (resized).jpg
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DSC06368_moyenne (resized).jpg
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#1 3 years ago

Everyone knows the appearance of the WPC95 inserts.
It is not perfectly transparent.
In case of ghosting we can inject varnish but if it misses a piece of the insert .....
This PF had a lot of lack and some insert was repaired with stickers and resin.
I was asked to remake all the inserts so that the rendering is more beautiful and uniform.
In addition, the silkscreen on the inserts not being opaque enough let the light pass through the drawing, I will correct this too.
Some photos showing the PF in the beginningDSC05446_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05443_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05442_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05440_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05447_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05441_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05438_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05439_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05437_moyenne (resized).jpgThe remaining mylar pieces, have done a lot of damageThe remaining mylar pieces, have done a lot of damageDSC05451_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05450_moyenne (resized).jpgThe entrance of the bridge levis all the time damagedDSC05452_moyenne (resized).jpgsanded with the "dremel" DSC05454_moyenne (resized).jpg
the hole of magic merlin tooDSC05453_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05455_moyenne (resized).jpg
All the screen printing of the inserts is removedDSC05456_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05458_moyenne (resized).jpg
It makes hollows that will have to closeDSC05457_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05459_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05460_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05461_moyenne (resized).jpg
next step, a coat of varnish

#2 3 years ago

Varnish or clear? I wouldn't use varnish but to each his own. Automotive clearcoat does great on pinball playfields. You have your work cut out for you on this one!

Best of lock with the restore!

Chris Kruger

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from joemamma:

Varnish or clear? I wouldn't use varnish but to each his own. Automotive clearcoat does great on pinball playfields. You have your work cut out for you on this one!
Best of lock with the restore!
Chris Kruger

when i use this word" varnish" i mean automotive clearcoat, ( shure ) i use it for the first time since 2012 and always have a very good job.

#4 3 years ago

Hi
Now that the PF is level with the layer of varnish, I will prepare the surface to obscure the light and facilitate the drawing.
I will make stencils and use the drawings on the PF as a reference.
Here is a first example.
I vectorised the area that needs to be redone and I use the positive as a guideDSC05499_moyenne (resized).jpg
Then I stick the rest of the stencil.DSC05500_moyenne (resized).jpgAnd to finish, I withdraw all that it no longer serves me.DSC05501_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05502_moyenne (resized).jpg
There remains only the stencil that will protect the center of the insert perfectly positioned as originally
Here are other examples of centeringDSC05503_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05504_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05505_moyenne (resized).jpg
In case of doubt, I check the alignment with a rule and compare it with another PF, I am lucky to have twoDSC05507_moyenne (resized).jpg
DSC05508_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05506_moyenne (resized).jpgYet other examples of landmarks.
The ax and the bottom of the stick of the shovelDSC05512_moyenne (resized).jpgAnd again with the pennant.
DSC05510_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05511_moyenne (resized).jpg
Stars and madness, fairly easyDSC05513_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05514_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05515_moyenne (resized).jpg
It's over for the landmarksDSC05521_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05517_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05518_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC05519_moyenne (resized).jpgYou have to take your time and be very careful not to go wrong because then it is difficult to go back once it is painted.
Then it is necessary to delimit the surface to be painted, this stage is quite simple.
Protect everything before paintingDSC05522_moyenne (resized).jpg
I paint at first in black because the occulting power is strong.
Then a layer of white paint, touching up on black is almost impossible with acrylic paint.
DSC05523_moyenne (resized).jpg
DSC05524_moyenne (resized).jpg

1 week later
#5 3 years ago

Hi
The PF was then varnished because the paint still makes a nice thickness that does not facilitate the continuation of work.
I let it dry for a week.
It is now necessary to make the outline in pencil.
some picture of the work.
MM (1) (resized).jpgMM (2) (resized).jpgMM (3) (resized).jpgMM (4) (resized).jpgMM (5) (resized).jpgMM (6) (resized).jpgMM (10) (resized).jpgMM (9) (resized).jpgMM (8) (resized).jpgMM (12) (resized).jpgMM (11) (resized).jpgMM (7) (resized).jpg
The red / orange gradient of the upper corridor will be started before the brush works.
I made a stencil cut directly on the PF.
Installation of stencil vynil.
MM (13) (resized).jpg
It is finally cut, work with blade x acto and magnifying magnifying glassMM (14) (resized).jpgMM (15) (resized).jpg
These shades are unfortunately not very covering, in addition, the PF is very marked in this zone with black traces.
A pass of white paint will facilitate the workMM (16) (resized).jpg
Then the red / orange gradientMM (17) (resized).jpgThere is a nice thickness of paint, it is necessary to be careful when removing the stencil not to pull anything, to work very gently
Here, the brush will follow.
MM (18) (resized).jpg

#6 3 years ago

Pretty interesting to see this develop. I figured a high level playfield restoration is a lot of work, but it actually amazes me it's much more than that. Real skil there!

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from FreeBee:

Pretty interesting to see this develop. I figured a high level playfield restoration is a lot of work, but it actually amazes me it's much more than that. Real skil there!

Hi and thank's
There is a lot of work but it's fun to do.
What I hate is the large surface, easier of course, but boring.
I will put pictures as the work progressesmm (1) (resized).jpgmm (3) (resized).jpgmm (2) (resized).jpgmm (4) (resized).jpgmm (5) (resized).jpgmm (6) (resized).jpgmm (8) (resized).jpgmm (10) (resized).jpgmm (7) (resized).jpg
is thats all for today

mm (9) (resized).jpg

1 week later
#8 3 years ago

Why do all the work on the inserts when you can buy a set for $60?

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-MM-INS-LM

Chris Kruger

#9 3 years ago

Why ???????
For several reasons.
Is putting $ 60 in the trash.
These decals set, I have already had several provided by my clients, each time the same finding is done and I used one time on an AFM
1 / the sticker is very thick
2 / the impression is bad, not opaque enough.
3 / wrong dimensions, not the right scale.
4 / there is just the inscriptions, the drawing is missing.
5 / risk of reaction with the varnish (already tested)
6/The inserts with the bicolour inscriptions, in black on a white background => nonexistent, there is no white
To finish, this kind of product is just good at making a semblance of repair for a layman and is incompatible with quality work, and my customers do not want this kind of product.
The medieval madness is still part of the most highly rated games, so high-end catering

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from joemamma:

Why do all the work on the inserts when you can buy a set for $60?
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-MM-INS-LM
Chris Kruger

I liken that request with asking Michaelangelo to use blood and horse turds to paint the Sistine chapel.

#11 3 years ago

Thank's Russo.
All the drawings of the inserts are finally finished.
I will now varnish the plate before continuing, it is preferable because there is risk of leakage of paint by capillary under the stencils.
Some photos up close.
MM (1) (resized).jpgMM (3) (resized).jpgMM (2) (resized).jpgMM (5) (resized).jpgMM (4) (resized).jpgMM (6) (resized).jpgMM (8) (resized).jpgMM (7) (resized).jpg
I will wait a week that the varnish is dry before continuing.

1 week later
#12 3 years ago

Ha Ha Ha Ha!!!!

4 weeks later
#13 3 years ago

A lot of delay with other work, I had to put aside this one, I just start over.
I made the stencils for the white undersides of the inscriptions of the two-color inserts
medieval madness (1) (resized).jpgmedieval madness (2) (resized).jpgmedieval madness (3) (resized).jpg
I will isolate this work with a coat of varnish before continuing, there is too much risk of leakage of paint to put stencils on the paint.
I can finally finish the other inscriptions in black, it will have to do in three times because there are these inserts too close to each other and make the inscription with the contour at the same time lays worries this centering
medieval madness (4) (resized).jpg
I remove the interiors of the letters first to avoid dirtying the surface with my hands.
medieval madness (5) (resized).jpgmedieval madness (6) (resized).jpg
Some photos of the first stage
medieval madness (7) (resized).jpgmedieval madness (9) (resized).jpgmedieval madness (8) (resized).jpgmedieval madness (10) (resized).jpg
second step
medieval madness (11) (resized).jpgmedieval madness (12) (resized).jpgmedieval madness (13) (resized).jpg
and the end
medieval madness (14) (resized).jpgmedieval madness (16) (resized).jpgmedieval madness (15) (resized).jpg
Remains more than the finishing varnish

1 week later
#14 3 years ago

The PF is finally finished.
here are some photos
DSC06352_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06351_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06350_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06361_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06353_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06359_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06358_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06354_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06355_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06356_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06357_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06368_moyenne (resized).jpg

A little personalizationDSC06274_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06275_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06276_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06360_moyenne (resized).jpg
Illuminated insertsDSC06363_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06366_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06365_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06367_moyenne (resized).jpgDSC06364_moyenne (resized).jpg
View in reflection of the finishDSC06362_moyenne (resized).jpg
I made a small photo montage to compare the original to my work, left the original that lets the light pass through the drawing and right, only the insert lets the light pass.
  This is prettier
casque (resized).jpgbouclier (resized).jpgblason (resized).jpg
to finish, a video


thank's for reading

#15 3 years ago

That's not restoration. That's better than original! Well done Sir.

#16 3 years ago

Great work!

#17 3 years ago

Franck is a dude!

I saw it and a SS playfield at Lavaur. Impressive job.

Well done.

#18 3 years ago

Nice job sir!

#19 3 years ago

Amazing job! Can you tell a little about techniques and equipment you used on fine detail work?

#20 3 years ago

Wow...that is awesome!

#21 3 years ago

Impressive!

#22 3 years ago

Echoing everyone else. This is outstanding work! Thank you for sharing your process.

-Jim

#23 3 years ago

Amazing!

#24 3 years ago

Beautiful work!

#25 3 years ago

Crazy talent on display here for sure. Thanks so much for posting!

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from Iizi:

Amazing job! Can you tell a little about techniques and equipment you used on fine detail work?

thank's guy's

For paints, I use two kinds, the first is not much concentrated in pigments but it has all the primary colors that are absolutely necessary to make the desired colors.
pebeo light (resized).JPG
Then I also go for this one which is much more concentrated in pigments, but unfortunately there are only secondary colors.
I use it a lot for difficult colors based on yellow and red that do not cover much.
I also use black for the inscriptions on the inserts because it covers faster and it makes less thickness.
pebeo strong (resized).JPG
All these paintings are worked with a brush and also with the airbrush.
With the brush as with the airbrush, they are strongly diluted which makes it possible to have rendering without traces but that involves many layers (with the brush).
For the airbrush, I filter the paint with an 80 micron filter because even if the paint tube is new, there are small deposits that clog the nozzle of the airbrush.
For the precise work, the size of the nozzle is 0.2 and for the large surface like the gradient red / orange eb top of the PF of medieval M I use of 0.5.
I do not use airbrush paint, because apart from black and white, the proposed colors do not suit me, and the price is very high.
To accelerate drying, I use a hair dryer and it goes very quickly, a few seconds in some cases.
The vinyl that I use to make the stencils behaves very well when heated and it can stay on the PF for several days without the glue staying on it.
Full of other vinyl leaves traces of glue in particular the oramask which I use now only to make a stencil cut directly by hand on the plate because it is semi transparent and it also serves me for the transfer of stencils with my White vinyl, damage it does not make the same product in semi transparent.
The white vinyl is specially made for professional stencils and is not found in small shops.
Here's a link to vinyl
http://www.mactac.eu/products-macmask-84817-1-11-26-26.htm
To realize the stencils, I scan the PF and I vectorize with adobe illustrators CS6.
I then import the vector file into my Cameo silhouette plotter control software.
vecto MM (resized).jpg
The silhouette cameo is a fantastic and indispensable tool.
Really very robust, 5 years of use and today it is very affordable in price.
The "portrait" version (A4) costs about € 150 in France and works as well as the version "silhoutte" (A3)caméo (resized).jpg

For varnish, I use 2K acrylic (hardener)
And I varnish each important work, first to prepare the support and put the inserts flat, then when all the painting work is done and to lay the different stencil because there are leaks (very small) but that Can be seen if one makes a hard stencil of the paint, (bad hang)
The varnish that I useu pol (resized).jpg
It is necessary to be very careful with these products which are very dangerous and explosive in confinement.
And of course, for the airways, I use only protection 3M
mask 3M (resized).jpg
If you have any questions do not hesitate

#27 3 years ago

That was great to read through and see how a good restoration is done.
So much work but the end result says it all!
Nice work!

#28 3 years ago

What Franck is not telling you, he is working with his wife who is really an artist of pencils and drawings.

Desole Franck, je ne pouvais pas te laisser recevoir tous les lauriers

#29 3 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

What Franck is not telling you, he is working with his wife who is really an artist of pencils and drawings.
Desole Franck, je ne pouvais pas te laisser recevoir tous les lauriers

Franck, do you do this professionally or just for hobby? If professionally, are you taking new work?

#30 3 years ago

Yes he is professional.
He has restore 2 of my game and I have another one standing.
I can't answer for him concerning your own playfield. Just feel free to ask him.

#31 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Franck, do you do this professionally or just for hobby? If professionally, are you taking new work?

i sent you a PM

#32 3 years ago

Magnifique. A peu pres combien d'heures de travail au total (en incluant bien sur Madame)?

#33 3 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

Magnifique. A peu pres combien d'heures de travail au total (en incluant bien sur Madame)?

hi
about 150/180 hours,I do not want to count too much, it's scary ^^

1 month later
#34 3 years ago

Any idea how many hours you have in this?

#35 3 years ago

Any idea how many hours you have in this restoration? It looks better than new for sure!!!!! how do you make the decals for the inserts?

Chris Kruger

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from joemamma:

Any idea how many hours you have in this restoration? It looks better than new for sure!!!!! how do you make the decals for the inserts?
Chris Kruger

Frank said it was on the order of 150 to 180 hours, including his wife's time. That's a work of love and art!

#37 3 years ago

Very nice, thanks for posting.

Voulez-vous coucher avec moi ce soir. I heard that in a song.

#38 3 years ago
Quoted from joemamma:

Any idea how many hours you have in this restoration? It looks better than new for sure!!!!! how do you make the decals for the inserts?
Chris Kruger

This is explained in this thread with photos of the robot

#39 3 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

Frank said it was on the order of 150 to 180 hours, including his wife's time. That's a work of love and art!

thank's

3 months later
#40 3 years ago

As already stated, your work is art I can't imagine playing on!
Do you have trouble with the Cameo and long template cuts as seen in my attached image? In preparing stencils for the cabinet of my SBM, I've more than once had to cut another as the Oracal or Gerber "walked" under the rollers since it does not use "indexing". I've wasted more stencil material this way. Another thing I've noticed is the cutter sometimes looses its depth of cut even when one stencil was just cut perfectly.
Of course I've already pulled the finished product out of the Cameo so it's too late to make a second pass.
Any tips, hits and suggestions? I'm also posting this in the dedicated cameo thread.

20170909_210424 (resized).jpg

#41 3 years ago

Yeah... this is a problem and it's hard to fix on a cheap cutter. Maybe tape some duct tape to the backing along the entire length of the material before you cut. Rollers slip on thin material when using cheap cutters- and my silhouette and any silhouette any model is by definition cheap- a commercial machine designed to cut long perfectly registered stencils can be 5K or more.

Also- have you adjusted the roller position inward or tried them fully out? It may make a difference and would be worth trying. You could try it using a pen instead of a blade to avoid wasting material. I would play a bit. Also adjust cut speed and how it manages movement (forget setting) to minimize back and forth travel.

I know MkMod2 and MarkInc have had more experience in long format cuts and probably others- they come to immediate mind. I would hope they wonder by or PM to them for tips. I have used mine a ton but never for cabinet stencils.... sorry I can't help more- but for sure adding a little thickness would help. I have even backed the material with a layer of transfer tape to help...that gets expensive if you need to do it 5 times.

#42 3 years ago
Quoted from rufessor:

Maybe tape some duct tape to the backing along the entire length of the material before you cut.

Quoted from rufessor:

try it using a pen instead of a blade to avoid wasting material.

Man, what brilliant ideas, I will certainly give these methods a shot, sound logical to me. Re: adding tape to make thicker, would I then tell the Cameo thickness of material is now greater than the 3mil of just the Oracal? I've played with all types of thickness setting and blade depth settings and it seems to have only little effect.

Quoted from rufessor:

Also- have you adjusted the roller position inward or tried them fully out?

Yes, I've moved them in / out and still encounter the walking of the material.

#43 3 years ago

Hi
I noticed defects of cut in case of great length when I use of the semi transparent oramask, but never with the professional white vinyl special stencil body, (ref mac mask 28-180)
this is a vinyl of very high quality, may be the best in the world, I tried so much before fixing on that one.
it still happens that I need to resort to the oramask in some cases, lately I needed a length of 30 inch.
I keep my old transport sheet, and when I need a great length, I put the sheets of transport end to end by connecting them with duct tape and so I have a long cut with transport sheet ..
, no problem of depth of cut, it is uniform over the whole length.
I want to say that my caméo is old (5 years) so it is the first model and it really serves very often, it is very solid material, I hope the new models are also solid

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