(Topic ID: 213436)

Mechanical?? problem.. Im stumped

By SPARKY70

6 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by SPARKY70
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There are 56 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 6 years ago

Hi. My Revenge from Mars Skip Ramp suddenly sticks in the UP position.

The ramp should fall back down when the coil is not energized.

Only gravity seems to control the down position. There is no spring, and i confirmed this with the manual on page 2-17.

I replaced the coil sleeve, cleaned the bell armature, and all other parts with no luck.

I took it apart again, and gave the bell armature a light wet sand to remove any possible burrs. Still no luck.

I lightly oiled the metal to metal points, even though they all appear clear from binding. Still bo luck.

I thought maybe the bell armature and coil stop could be magnatized. I took them out again, and checked if a screw would be attracted to either, but no.

The ramp only stays up after being lifted using the coil power. When i raise it manually, it does not stay in the up position, even when i slam it up as hard as i possibly can.

To rule out any power still going to the coil, i turned the power off, and the skip ramp stays raised, until i give it a little tap, or some other vibration from a fliiper, etc.

What am i missing here? Is there another way to check for magnatism?

This is a home use only machine, with very low plays. It has never been abused. Thanks. Sparky

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#2 6 years ago

On most of the coil assemblies that I've seen that have the bell armature, it always has a spring. Although the manual doesn't call for one, I wonder if installing a spring might help.

I sold my RFM about 9 years ago. I had never tore into that part of my machine.

#3 6 years ago

is the plunger link mushroomed? or is that what you are calling the bell armature?

#4 6 years ago

Wow, you guys are quick.

Indy, i was thinking about adding a speing as you suggested, but it always worked before with this setup. We'll see.

Infinite, where is the plunger link? At the roll pin? Thanks. Sparky

#5 6 years ago

the link is the part that goes into the coil sleeve inside the coil. the tip can become mushroomed over time and needs to be replaced, just like in a flipper rebuild.

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#6 6 years ago

Hi infinite, the setup here is a bit different from a common flipper setup. There is no metal to metal hitting a coil stop that would cause mushrooming as far as i could tell.

I didnt see anything obvious anyway. I could take it apart again, and send a picture if you would like. Thanks. Sparky

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from SPARKY70:

Hi infinite, the setup here is a bit different from a common flipper setup. There is no metal to metal hitting a coil stop that would cause mushrooming as far as i could tell.
I didnt see anything obvious anyway. I could take it apart again, and send a picture if you would like. Thanks. Sparky

might be worth a look just to be sure I suppose

#8 6 years ago

Ok, ill take it out now.

#9 6 years ago

Here are some pics.

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#10 6 years ago

hmm, the long metal piece, it the tip of it smooth or does it have any jagged edges? Not familiar with that mech so hopefully someone else can chime in. Trying to figure out where something could potentially "catch" stopping the mech from going down.

#11 6 years ago

Mine does the same thing but i havent looked into it.i was told a cleaning would fix it but sounds like you've done that
Following to see what gets yours going as I may need to do the same.

#12 6 years ago

Infinite, the tip looks good, but should not come into play here, since it has that piece on the end.

To eliminate that as a cause, i removed the "flap pusher", reinstalled the assembly without ir, and it still sticks UP.

please look closely at this pictureto see what was removed, and what little remains.

While operating it by hand, i think i feel some magnetism pulling the bell armature to the coil bracket.

Puffy, i thought it would be an easy cleaning, but something else is foung on here.

Anyone know how to demagnetize parts?? Thanks. Sparky

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#13 6 years ago

well, this is how you would demagnetize the metal if that is the issue according to google:

"Place the magnet at the opposite end of the metal from where you magnetized it. Again, the magnet must make as much contact with the metal as possible. Rub the metal with the magnet in the opposite direction that you used to magnetize it. Continue rubbing until the metal no longer attracts other metal"

#14 6 years ago

I cannot believe that this was designed to only use gravity, I don't have this machine or have the manual, but my guess is that it does need a spring....I'm sure that would do it..I am guessing that is is normally down?

#15 6 years ago

Hi Mickster, the nirmal pisition is down. I thought i would have a spring too, but i guess the weight of the flap pusher plus gravity is what is relied on.

Indinite, i read that on google, but since "I" didnt magnetize it, i dont know which way is the opposite way.

I dint want to accudenly magnetize it more, if it is magnetized as if now, however, I did find that hitting the object could disturb its magnetism, so i think i will knoxk them around a but, and see what happens.

#16 6 years ago

Sparky70, okay cool, it certainly seems to be heavy enough to want to drop, I would just clean up the metal shaft the best you can, (smooth)..new sleeve and make sure it is perfectly aligned vertically.....a half or one-off degree might cause this too...good luck.

#17 6 years ago

Thanks.
Tried dropping the coil bracket on my ceramic tiles a bunch of times, and tapped the ends of the bell armature on the tile as well. Not sure if it broke up any magnetism, but the problem still persists.

I just tried an alternate bell armature that i had. Its brand new, but not the exact replacement. It still stays up.

So, to recap, new coil sleeve, different bell armature, no flap pusher, and it still stays up after the coil is energized, until i give it a slight vibration.

#18 6 years ago

Hi Sparky,

I don't own this machine, so any thing I say is a big WAG. So bear with me if I say something stupid.

If you remove the solenoid does the remaining assembly freefall? My thinking is to try to isolate the problem between the solenoid and the ramp being the culprit. Reading your 1st post, it sounds like the ramp is free (i.e. you can move it manually with no friction), correct ?

#19 6 years ago

I've worked in several machine shops though the years. A few of them had demahnetizers. It literally takes seconds to run the part through the machines. You literally have the part in your hand and run it through the demagnetizer a couple times.

#20 6 years ago

Hi guys, after trying everything i could possibly think of to get this to work without a spring (as originally designed?), i put in an old style williams conical shaped flipper return spring.

It now works as it should, so i will be buying a new spring made for a bell armature.

"THE SPRING DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM, IT CREATED A DIFFERENT ONE"

READ NEWER POSTS BELOW!!

If it is actually slightly magnetized, the spring seems to overpower it enough to drop the ramp as it should. Thanks for wveryines input, hope this saves someone else five hours. Thanks. Sparky.

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#21 6 years ago

Going thru your other posts, it appears the solenoid post doesn't drop due to potential magnetism? If so, remove the sleeve, place the plunger back in, and see it it free falls down with the machine off. If it's magnetism causing the problem, then if it should not drop w/o the sleeve. This eliminates any binding by the nylon sleeve.

Edit - oops...looks like we posted about the same time.

Regardless, a spring sounds like a easy fix!

#22 6 years ago

Hi mbwalker, thanks for the tip. I now got it working. This is good to know, and ill try it out when i take it apart again to put in a correct style spring. Sparky

#23 6 years ago
Quoted from SPARKY70:

Hi mbwalker, thanks for the tip. I now got it working. This is good to know, and ill try it out when i take it apart again to put in a correct style spring. Sparky

Good deal Sparky! If you ever do need a demagnetizer, Amazon has some inexpensive ones around $10 that are likely just fine.

#24 6 years ago

Thanks. Cool to know!!

#25 6 years ago

PROBLEM PERSISTS!!!!

After playing a couple of full games with the spring installed, i realized that the skip ramp did not stay in the FULLY UP position.

This ramp coil works similarly to a flipper coil.

It has an "end if stroke switch", that switches the coil to use LOW POWER when it holds the ramp in the fully UP position.

The low power of the coil was not powerful enough to over power the spring i installed, so the ramp would start to "sag" down after it would get hit by a ball, causing balls to not fly high enough to fly into the ball catcher.

Balls would only go high enough to hit the front of the ball catcher.

MBWALKER suggested that i remove the coil sleeve to test for magnetism. I ran the test without the coil sleeve, and the bell armature still stuck to the coil bracket.

So there is DEFINITLY magnetism holding the flap up.

As a temporary solution, i put a thin layer of duct tape on the coil bracket to seperate the bell armature from directly touching the coil bracket.

Now the ramp drops when it should, and stays in the FULLY UP position without sagging.

Anybody have any insight into this magnetism holding a bell armature?

Surely this cant be a first...

The duct tape i used is black, and can be seen in the picture.

Thanks. Sparky

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#26 6 years ago
Quoted from SPARKY70:

PROBLEM PERSISTS!!!!
After playing a couple of full games with the spring installed, i realized that the skip ramp did not stay in the FULLY UP position.
This ramp coil works similarly to a flipper coil.
Sparky

LOL, sorry...sometimes problems are perpetual tho, aren't they? All part of the hobby, I guess. More than once I've told the spouse that "she plays them, and I'm just the maintenance guy". But she enjoys them, so kudos to her.

Did you put tape on the end the coil? That won't do anything. It would need to be between the shaft and the coil (not practical due to tape thickness).

I guess two options..just buy a new shaft for the solenoid or buy a demagnetizer.

Maybe a couple of other options: Try a weaker spring, or more of a remote chance (and a WAG), try some tape between the solenoid and the bracket to lower any magnetism between the two (I doubt that,but easy to do).

In the end, you'll get it working - so hang in there. Could be a lot worse.

#27 6 years ago

MB, the parts that are magnetizing together, are the large round bottom end of the bell armature, to the bottom of the coil bracket.

So the tape is on the side of the bracket that momentarily touched the bell armature.

I will have to check if a new bell armature is available, since it seems like a game specific part.

Otherwise, probably a demagnetizer.

I thought about a weaker soring, but decided to try the tape first to confirm the magnetism.

Since the metal no longer touches, it dosnt stick. The magnetism is weak enough that the tape is just enough to do the trick.

The weird thing is that the parts only seem to stay magnetized after the coil has been energized.

But after i break the bond for a second or two, the magnetism ceases, and will not stick again until after i energize the coil once again.

#28 6 years ago

Sparky,

OK, now I understand. Got it.

Not sure if a demagnetizer would work. I would think it would just become magnetized again after the coil energized.

Maybe try some sort of thick plastic or rubber washer?

Good luck!

#29 6 years ago

Maybe turn the coil around, 180?

#30 6 years ago

Mickster, has this ever worked for you??

#31 6 years ago

Worth a try...you did everything else except all new parts...

#32 6 years ago
Quoted from SPARKY70:

The weird thing is that the parts only seem to stay magnetized after the coil has been energized.
But after i break the bond for a second or two, the magnetism ceases, and will not stick again until after i energize the coil once again.

Sparky: I have the exact same problem with my RFM and I also concluded the above.. that once I "tap down the ramp" it is fine until the coil is energized again. That is as far as I have looked into it so I appreciate your efforts and sharing your findings with all of us.

When I get time... I'll try the tape thing as well.

#33 6 years ago
Quoted from SPARKY70:

the parts that are magnetizing together, are the large round bottom end of the bell armature, to the bottom of the coil bracket.

Have a new armature made of stainless steel, or remove the bell from the original one and replace it with a new brass one.
Rotating the coil will not do anything.

#34 6 years ago

Lick frog, if you get a chance, could you check if yours has a spring? You should be able to look/ through the coin door. Thanks

Grumpy, those ate good ideas, ididnt know that the end is replaceable. Is there a guide somewhere on how to do it? Thanks. Sparky

#35 6 years ago
Quoted from SPARKY70:

Is there a guide somewhere on how to do it?

No, but if you were to grind the end flat then the bell would slide off.

Quoted from SPARKY70:

ididnt know that the end is replaceable.

It was not made to be replaced but in can be with some effort.

#36 6 years ago

Ok grumpy, i get it. Are brass ends readily available, and would i need to grind one off and swap it? Thanks

#37 6 years ago

No you would have to make one from a brass rod.

#38 6 years ago

Sparky,

Grumpy is correct, using a non-magnetic material would likely solve the issue, but I think a rubber washer (probably available at any hardware store) might be a simpler fix rather than making a brass end. Example below. Maybe have to tinker getting the right size/thickness. I just grabbed this as an example. Don't forget the spring option - just have to size it correctly.

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#39 6 years ago

Grumpy, thanks for the info.
Have you had this problem with the magnetism before?
It seems like youve had to deal with this in the past.

Mb, rubber would also work.
It would have to be as thin as possible, so this ramp would lift to its highest position, otherwise the ball would not fly as high as it should.

Im curious to find out what causes this to happen. Ive magnetized screwdrivers purposely, so i understand the magnetism.

Id like to find an article ir post about this occurance.

Im guessing with thousands of machines out there with multiple coils each, that somebody has addressed this already. Anybody able to share a link? Thanks. Sparky

#40 6 years ago
Quoted from SPARKY70:

Have you had this problem with the magnetism before?

No I have not. But I have heard lots of problems like this on Bally linear flippers. The coil stops have some copper in them to combat this.

#41 6 years ago

Could you add some weight to the flap to help it overcome the force of the magnetism?

It’s a long shot but maybe changing the angle of the pin could help with it?

I’m not sure how much force you’re having to apply to get the flap back down.

#42 6 years ago

Maybe the coil is failing and putting out too much energy thus causing the magnetism? If I read everything right you haven’t replaced the coil yet.

I wonder if it’s possible to attach something with a higher conductivity than the shaft that you could use a sacrificial magnetized piece? And then try to ground this piece to give the current a place to flow?

These are stabs in the dark and could probably be mythbusted in a matter of seconds by someone with more knowledge. 0 shits given about looking dumb

#43 6 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I wonder if it’s possible to attach something with a higher conductivity than the shaft that you could use a sacrificial magnetized piece?

There's actually metal (called 'mu' metal) that helps to block magnetic fields. I've used it many decades ago in some designs (albeit to shield air wound coils - not solenoids). It essentially kept the coils' magnetic fields from interfering (i.e. talking) with each other. In this case, it would be placed at the end of the coil, same place Sparky put tape.

If your really inquizitive, here's a random link for it: http://custommagneticshielding.magneticshield.com/category/mumetal-sheet-and-foil

#44 6 years ago
Quoted from SPARKY70:

Mb, rubber would also work.
It would have to be as thin as possible, so this ramp would lift to its highest position, otherwise the ball would not fly as high as it should.
Sparky

At Dollar Tree, you can get some plastic sheets that are used for kitchen cabinet protectors. Maybe 0.01" thick. Grab a pair a scissors and/or a box cutter...10 minutes later...I bet you problem would be solved for $1 +tax! LOL

Or, go to Wallymart or a hardware store and get something like these (think feet protectors). 1/16" thick.

Capture (resized).pngCapture (resized).png

#45 6 years ago

Yp, at first i thought the idea of adding extra weight would work, but i think it would end up the same as when i put in the spring, causing the ramp to sag during the "hold" up position.

I havnt changed the coil since i dont have one on hand, but was wondering if it is starting to fail as well.

Mb, thanks for the priduct suggestions, since it sounds similar to the tape fix, ill just keep the tape for now.

Ill also check out that link.

I just hate having a piece of tape where it shouldnt be. Ughhh.

Thanks. Sparky

#46 6 years ago

Have you tried replacing the coil bracket that the armature hits and sticks to when energized? I’ve seen instances where the armature will create a ring groove impression in the coil bracket, and stick in the closed position. If there’s a groove then try filing it smooth or replace the bracket

#47 6 years ago

Had the same issue years ago and resolved it by

1 installing a return spring,

2 replacing the coil sleeve

3 Polishing the plunger.

4 Filing the channels smooth where the plunger bracket tab guides travel.

5 Filed the plunger bracket guide tabs smooth

6 Used Gulf Wax as a clean, dry lube in the edges of the bracket guides.

#48 6 years ago
Quoted from SPARKY70:

where it shouldn't be. Ughhh.
Thanks. Sparky

Sparky,

Yeah - I'm the same way. Drives me nuts, to a fault. Look up perfectionist in the dictionary and you'll probably see my picture.

Keep in mind I've designed things for for 30 years, and nothing is perfect, as hard as I try. Everything is a comprise. Pinball's back then were meant to be played for a few years and forgotten, and not doubt they cut corners to keep the price down as low as possible. Sometime things just need to be 'improved'.

#49 6 years ago
Quoted from SPARKY70:

"THE SPRING DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM, IT CREATED A DIFFERENT ONE"

If you pull the wrapper off the coil, see if the thinner windings are on the outside. If they are you can remove 2 layers of the thinner windings making it stronger to hold against the spring you added.

#50 6 years ago

PNBL, i actually filed the groove smooth as well, but that unfortunately didnt do the trick.

Eddie, thanks for the input.
My guide tabs have plenty of free space around them. They arent even touching when the plunger is "stuck" up.

Which spring did you use? Did you happen to notice the ramp sag during the hold up position?

This is definately some kind of residual magnetism after the coil is turned off.

When the parts are disassembled, they are no longer magnetised, and wont even attract screws.

Grumpy, ill give it a look. Thanks. Soarky

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