You have an early game with that red one... the first 100 or so had red cabs ! After that, they switched to blue for main production. I loved my game, regret that I got rid of it...

I miss my JL, that red looks nice!

I left the club today. At Allentown. In the parking lot. I miss the game already!

Member for.life.

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Awwwwww. This is such underrated game. I miss mine too... So much fun.

Never thought I'd see the day! I swapped mine recently for a High Speed and my only regret is not having a chance to try out your JL code. Did you trade for anything or just a straight sale?

I have space for 3 games only and I have had the same three for too long. So, mentally it was definitely a trade, but technically it was a straight sale in the parking lot, followed by a straight purchase of a an all original, fabulous looking and sounding Bad Cats this morning. I really like the fact that the JL buyer is excited to try my current version of the code, which is unique. In addition to the new tricks additions, it fixes the background sound bug, it has the LORD lamps during multiball on memory, and it has a multiball jackpot that you score when you manage to lock both balls during MB.

Also maybe of interest to the club, I saw two JLs at the show. Both blue. One with a great cabinet and playfield for $2800 (I think) in the main hall, great looking except that it has a translite, which is much darker than the backglass and no mirroring, of course. The other is in the flea market area and listed as $2400 OBO. I forgot how the cabinet looks (can't be too bad) but there is wear on the playfield. I thought the backglass looks excellent, though.

Finally took possession of this NOS JL back glass, still in the original Williams box!
Now I have a NOS Kruzman cleared play field, new plastics, stencil, even tracked down some NOS drop target stickers, guess I gotta get my ass in gear!

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Beautiful

Nice! Is that a red game backglass or a blue game backglass?

Blue game, mirrored

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Are there any more where that came from? I'd love to purchase one...didnt even know there were any out there.

I seriously doubt it,I looked for one for years, then it took inside info, money and a lot of patience to get this one. I'd guess that this is the last NOS JL back glass in existence. I've had offers on my old one, but it's already promised to Kyle at Marco's. I'd just snatch up whatever you can find and send it off to BG resto.

I found these loose leads in my JL near the menu buttons.

Green w/brown
White w/purple
Teal w/brown

The green and teal leads were bound together with a wire nut.

I looked through all the schema for the game posted to IPDB and found only this one page that references leads of these colors. The green/brown lead's circuit involves many things, including the plumb bob, reset button, and coin chutes, while the white/violet lead involves the slam tilt. The third photo I've posted shows one free lug on the credit button's switch that has residual solder, so do we think the green/brown lead was originally soldered here? How do I safely deal with these stray leads?

Thanks.

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Maybe these pictures of my JL help. Also check out the switch matrix in the manual for guidance.
Advance and auto up / down are not in the matrix, HS reset is. Good luck.
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So I'm finally getting time to start going through the Jungle Lord I picked up at the start of the year. It was sold as fully shopped and good to go but I'm noticing a couple issues. I've started with fully LED'ing the machine to get the current draw down and last night I put in the new set of plastics from Marco to replace the originals that had so much cracking and warping they made the machine look horrible. Today is flipper rebuild day and maybe try doing the rivets for the vertical plastics.

I'm still a novice for going through electronics. The one issue I've noticed on this machine is that the displays (all of them) will fade in and out and then on and dim so each segment is only partially lit. It's intermittent but my gut feeling is there's a voltage issue somewhere around the display driver board as it's not one specific display and the numbers are correct when it does flick back to life. Anyone seen something similar? I've disconnected all the connectors and done a cleanup on the edge connectors. A couple brief games and that maybe fixed the problem at least temporarily.

I'm thinking since I don't know the history of the machine, I'd see if there was anything funky going on with the power supply as well, maybe an obvious indication the high voltage for displays would be flakey. I see someone has put a big 'rebuilt' label on the power supply. But there's also a bunch of marettes right by the supply which raised some flags as well as some jumpers on the board itself that didn't look necessarily factory

Sure enough, pulling up the JL schematics, where the jumper is, is right where F7 20a should be for GI. (I've noticed on this machine that each flipper actuation causes the GI to get dim so I'm not quite sure yet what the scoop is there) Doing some looking online I see that F7 wasn't present on some of the later Williams titles and even some of the aftermarket boards don't come with F7 which seems odd (Gulf Pinball Sys 7-11 power supply on Marco for example). Maybe I'm missing something but my gut feeling is this power supply is from a newer machine where supposedly the GI was fused somewhere other than the power supply board. Or someone just felt like hacking out the GI fuse...

Anyways, has anyone else got recommendations for the fading displays as well as the dimming GI during flipper actuation? I'm thinking I may just pick up a Kohout power supply and be sure with new components and not a repro board missing F7. As well, pick up a Wolffpac display kit for the machine so I can just eliminate the high voltage for the original displays. Anyeone here have experience with those products?

The latest report on my restoration of my JL. Have a watch.

Cheers

Does anyone have an extra plastic?
Please let me know. It is the circled plastic in the photo. Thanks

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Plastics set is back in stock at Marco, probably your best bet as that one seems to be a common one to get broken. Best I could offer is one with ~3/4" of the right side snapped off vertically.

Thanks for the reply I was hoping to avoid buying a complete set. Mine is missing the left corner.

That is broken on almost every game. People lift the playfield without removing the balls and that is where they hit.

Yess.
Since its also broken on the ipdb "reference" pin, I would declare the broken version as "original" and leave it this way.

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Mine is smashed too.

Any word on a backglass bring remade for this game? Seems a strong demand. I could.use one. Thx

I think everyone and their brother could use a new JL backglass....sign me up for two!

That pinsider Coos in Europe makes a pretty nice junlge lord. Shipping to USa does add a chunk to the total, but it looks like an option

If you look at the image gallery for this topic, someone made a custom Jungle Lord translite. I bought one for myself, but haven't used it yet since my back glass is good.

anyone replace their displays and have an old working player display left? my player 4 display is a little flakey and would like to swap it out.

Pm sent

Hi all I was reading a post about the upper targets issues (IC8 replaced) my issue is this:
Running test the 5 upper targets go up and down fine but playing the game the targets start one ,two ,three (after hitting with the ball) and 4 won’t come out or five until is reset by new game did you know how can I start troubleshooting? I got the schematic already. Is my first machine and first time troubleshooting. Thanks I hope you can help me

I found one recently too.

I am now a member of the club !!! Picked up this game in total disrepair . Fixed and polished it up , what a battle !!!! I have to say I was leary about the game . I have to say this is a really fun game . The playfield may get a hard top next year as it is rough and it needed so much I wasn’t going to spend any more money with out playing the game . So if you get one it’s definitely worth putting a hardtop on it . Back glass has paint missing. Some one please make new back glass’s

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Well after now playing the game a couple weeks I have found a great multi level target game . I had never played a jungle lord before. I like it !!! I just ordered a hardtop and new plastic set and I’m going to take it back down . Thank goodness for hardtop, this will be my third machine with one . I love them and no more waxing.

Boy, do I envy the owners with games with decent backglasses! Mine is ASS!
I found a source for a reproduction "Red" backglass in Holland but it's almost $500 shipped. Probably not going to do that.
I think I will buy a piece of custom-cut tempered glass and use a translite instead. There's a seller on eBay who has reproduced the backglass artwork in a translite somehow. It's $150 shipped. Not the cheapest translite, but what choice do I have? I see there's a "novelty" version, too, but, while it's cool and all, I should probably not stray from the original.

There is a jungle lord for sale on here on with a hardtop and a translight. That’s what drove me to order a hardtop. The translight looked good maybe reach out to him and see where it came from .

A Long Wait:

I have had my game for two years, but I've only got it to playing condition in the last month. It has been a very long road indeed!
I bought the game as a "project" from a Pinsider in Kentucky or Arkansas or...I don't really remember. Some place rather far. It was shipped here and I was surprised that the backglass had NOT broken in transit. Anyway, it needed a lot of attention - which was fine as I enjoy shopping pins if they are complete and don't create major headaches. Because this game was described as having a board issue, I took all the boards out when it arrived and shipped them to a tech in MO for rehabbing. I did NOT test them, as I don't really have the means to do that. Indeed, I didn't even turn the game on! The board repair ended up taking eight months. (Not cool, obviously.) While I was waiting, I shopped the heck out of the game. I replaced the baseplates of all four flippers and rebuilt the mechs - new plungers, links, cranks, sleeves, springs, bumpers, hardware, EOS switches, etc. I also rebuilt all three kickers - new plungers, springs, sleeves, bumpers, switches, caps, and resistors. I also replaced the kicker arms themselves and the pivot studs, to beat the slop that accumulates over time. I rebuilt the drop banks with fresh targets, sleeves, and springs, as well as new decals. I replaced one coil stop in the 5-bank. I rebuilt the original standup targets by drilling the rivet out of the old target and reusing the target face on a new target. (No choice here as the one-inch "bullseye" in transparent blue was nowhere to be found new). I replaced all the rubbers and swapped out all the incandescent GI bulbs for Comet 2SMD Sunlight frosted bulbs. I replaced the shooter rod bushing and spring and polished the shooter rod itself with bronze wool so it would be smooth. I straightened, gapped, and cleaned all the original leaf switches. When the boards returned, I installed them and fired up the game, but it wasn't an auspicious launch. I had a special solenoid issue that ended up necessitating the replacement of two TIP102 driver transistors on the power driver board. That was a challenging bit of soldering, for sure. Luckily, I was able to borrow a tech's soldering station that had a pump. I also made (from parts and a bare board) Weebly's Special Solenoid Saver board and installed it.
In any case, I am finally playing the game, but I have to say, this layout is murderously hard! The outlanes are like vacuums. The center ramp is a SDTM drain machine. My games last a minute or two. It's bananas. The Magna-Save is dope, but I don't work it very well. I'm usually either late or I'm pressing too hard. I will influence the ball in ways that are UNhelpful as often as I influence the ball in ways that are helpful. It's frustrating.
I like the space sounds.
I like all the drop-target action.
I like the upper playfield because the sling up there keeps the ball active.
I like the lighting and the inserts. It needs nothing - no spots, not LED strips. It does benefit from 2SMD frosted in the GI a LOT though.
Given the amount of work I did on this game, you would think I would want to hold onto it. Frankly, I find it too hard. I will probably sell it once it's entirely finished.

Thanks for the tip. I think I saw that game. It appears to have this translite:

ebay.com link: itm

Unfortunately, this is printed on polycarbonate. I would rather just have a translite on vinyl that I can mount to a piece of tempered glass.

Thanks for the tip. I think I saw that game. It appears to have this translite:
ebay.com link: itm
Unfortunately, this is printed on polycarbonate. I would rather just have a translite on vinyl that I can mount to a piece of tempered glass.

I wish someone would make this glass I would buy one . I was surprised to find the plastic set at Marco last week . I didn’t think i would like the game. So I didn’t hardtop it a couple weeks ago when I got it and overhauled it so now it’s get taken back down and getting the hardtop and new plastics. The magnets are fun to learn as you can make the ball do all sorts of things .

I Thank hardtops for making these overlays. This is my third game with a hardtop. If you have a playfield that was like mine these are a nice and easy to install. I love the game play on my other games with them . Total time in it 12 hours to disassemble and do assemble the upper and I will have another 6 tomorrow and the lower will be done. So like 18-22 hours to install. It just takes longer cause you have to do 2 playfields but the results are awesome!!!

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I've recently joined the club with a project JL I'm planning to bring back to life. A couple quick questions:

Where do you guys recommend getting replacement drop target decals?

What size ball for the mini-bagatelle?

I'm very excited to get this game working, never played one before. The rules look pretty interesting...

I got my drop target decals from Marco. Nice quality. - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/30-7620

The ball in the bagatelle - 3/4" https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB34

Hope this helps,
Cyberfez

Thanks!!

Been working on a recently acquired JL lately. My lady refers to it as "JLo".
So far, I've
Stripped, cleaned, wax pf.
Buffed all ramps, walls, inlane guides, bagatelle ball guide, upper lock guide (still need to do the one-way gates and air-ball deflector).
Replaced lamps with all Comet LED.
Replaced rubber with PerfectPlay silicone.
Complete rebuilds (w/ new plates) of flippers.
Cap kit on the sound/speech board (arcadepartsandrepair.com , I go through them often for crt monitor cap kits).

I did the cap kit because it was playing the wrong sounds at times or playing them incorrectly, all remedied now.

I am still having one weird intermittent issue. On occasion, the game freezes during the pre-multiball "showtime". Set at 35sec, it will count all the way up. But as the number "35" moves across the displays down toward the timer window, the "35" stays lit on the fist couple segments of the player 4 display (x35,xxx). It still moves along and makes it way into the timer window, but then as it places the second ball in the shooter lane, it does not go back to having the GI lit.

Sometimes the "35" makes it all the way through the displays without error, but the GI still stays off and slow flashes like it does during the MB count up. Mostly everything works going on from this point: scoring works fine, all solenoids fire, bagatelle and saucers work, timer still counts down.. but if you drain a ball with timer active and re-lock a ball, it does send the second ball out. Though, after the timer expires and eventually the ball drains, it does not go into bonus countdown, it just stays stuck in the same pre-multiball state.

This is my first time working with a SS Williams. Rom issue? Connectors? I'm unfamiliar with the common issues with this system.

TIA

Picked up mine a week or so ago. It has a whole host of issues I’ll try to figure out once I start working on it. Plus side is a great backglass and displays. May need a hard top once I start tearing if down

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Hello friends, I'm looking for a good jungle lord restored or in collector's condition in Europe...I would like to join the club soon...regards

Where in Europe?