It runs on ac??

let us know how you go dude, all the best and hope it sorts out soon.

Yes, the motor runs on AC. It's turned on by a relay.

Any news Dude?

even though this is a old post, it seems like everyone here has a maverick.
I just got a beautiful nos populated mav playfield. looks like plig and play, except one plastic is missing I believe. I haven't thought hard about what to do with it. I really dig the game, and I am hoping to find one with a bad pf, but nice cab and display (sounds easy right?), Then I can sell off the parts from the old pf to help pay for the project. I looked on marco and they didn't seem to have much for dedicated playfield parts. Couple questions, how much are mavericks selling for lately in the mich area? are the pf's usually trashed? (seems like they were all mylared) and lastly are the pf parts easy or hard to find? you can post or email me directly if you wish. I am interested to hear some opinions. really, the only thing I know is I like the game.
cheers, kruzman
[email protected]

5 rpm in 1min 3 seconds

It sounds like you have the right motor.

Did you ever confirm you were getting the correct voltage to the motor? Earlier in this thread you said you measured "19.6 Volts". I measured 29VAC on mine. Doesn't sound quite right there.

Schematics are a bit fuzzy and hard to read. Looks like the source is indicated as "BR2". BR2 would be the bridge rectifier for the solenoids. I can only assume that the AC voltage for the motor is tapped off somewhere on the input side of the bridge, because I am not at my game. I could take a further look in detail to compare measurements along the motor supply voltage path for you. There really isn't anything indicated between the transformer secondary and the motor/relay. Could be an issue with relay contacts, soldering, wiring, connectors or transformer secondary.

What you would do to find out would be to first measure your source right at the transformer secondary. Measure AC across the white/red pair of wires from the transformer (CN1 pins 6 & 7). If it measures something significantly higher than what is measured across the motor, you've got a weak connection somewhere along that path. If it's low to begin with, you'd need to take a closer look at all the voltages in and out of the transformer to determine if the transformer is a problem, or something else.

You're welcome. The whole assembly is not an easy animal to deal with, the gear box is a bit intimidating, at least to me it is. I suppose you could have wrong/reversed pullys. Without looking I would assume these are attached to the axles with set screws, the same as Cyclone. The smaller pully drives the larger. All I know about pullys is the size and torque relationship, and wondered if changing them around or to something different would help the speed.

If you really get desperate, I vote that you redesign it completely. I toyed with this idea, but at this time with my game completely working I am not ready to tear into it just yet.

I am going to add on to this discussion, hopefully someone can help me out. Kind of new to repairing pinball machines, so this may a simple question. The opto at the entrance to the paddle wheel is not working, so I tried to order a replacement from Pinball Resource. The opto has a transmitter and receiver, the transmitter is in stock but they said the receiver is no longer available from Stern. I haven't found them at any of the other pinball parts dealers sites either. Anyone have any advice on what to do in this situation, or is there any other place to get these new or used? Thanks!

If the board is ok (are you sure it's dead, and not just that a wire has cracked off the board?) You might just be able to replace the LED itself, and probably get that from an electronics distributor online. The Maverick Opto service bulletin has great detail of troubleshooting and part numbers for these visible spectrum opto pairs.
http://files.flipperspill.no/Support/Pinball/Serviceb/Stern/067_SB.PDF

Mine has it. I think it was put in before it was sold as a fix.

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The fix is kind of a bandaid, and requires more work than actually fixing the optos correctly. Don't get me wrong - it's entirely acceptable to go that route, but if the optos are fixed correctly they are quite reliable. I had one in the boat that had a broken wire, soldered it and hot glued over it to prevent further vibration problems. The transmitter at the paddlewheel entrance had a dead LED, no problem with the board. I took an old LED camping headlight and stole an LED out of it - Maverick uses visible light spectrum LEDs, not infrared. I have never had a single opto problem with it since.

Thanks so much for the quick responses! We will look at it again this weekend in light of your suggestions and see if we can figure out a way to fix it without having to replace the unavailable opto receiver.

That's great. Works perfectly? Wow!
But it makes me wonder: What would happen if you changed it out on one that already works well? Could you post information on the part and supplier for the pulley you used?

Hello The4hourse, i have exactly the same problem, my paddle wheel is very slow, i changed the motor for a new oje at marcos specialities, I have also the same issue with the music, suddenly in the middle of the game, the music goes off, how did you solve this issue with the music? For the wheel did you just change the pulley?

Another Aussie with a Maverick paddle wheel issue here. Thought I'd post here instead of creating a new thread. I'm fixing a Maverick for someone at the moment.

Optos seem to trigger fine. Noise goes off when I put finger in first beam. Also goes off when ball goes through beam.

First thing. The paddle wheel is going continuously from the time a game begins. Assuming this is normal? Secondly, the first two times a ball went through the opto beam, it loaded onto the wheel and made its way round fine and locked the ball or did what it had to do....from this point on, it was rather hit and miss.

Sometimes, the ball will load onto the wheel and the wheel will drop with the weight of the ball and get stuck/sit there indefinitely til the ball search is triggered and then I have to manually move the wheel around to get it going again.

Can someone please give me help on what needs to be done at this stage?

Cheers!
Adam.

Reading on another forum and from around the web, people have replaced the complete motor and it still hasn't changed speed or fixed the wheel issue. One person said that they changed the black rubber belt to a brand new one and this worked. I am also going to replace the rubber belt, unless someone has some other suggestions?

Answered my own question on this one.

Replaced the rubber pulley belt on the paddle wheel and also levelled the game to around 7 degrees. The wheel now picks the ball up every time and no annoying ball search issue. The motor must be spinning at a good speed and the Optos are working.

with pieces do you have to remove to change the belt ,,,running out of patience

i changed the belt on mine yesterday, you have to remove the metal wire shield under neath the wheel and then remove the main assembly itself. pretty straight forward its only held on with 4 screws and one main wire connector. The belt change has complete cured the slipping, i had the same problem as mentioned above with the wheel once loaded with a ball it was getting stuck and had to be manually free'd

ive been browsing the thread as i believe my entrance opto isnt working. Thanks for the tips guys , im going to take that opto out and see if i can repair prior to trying the reed switch option.

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You don’t have to remove anything at all to change the pulley on the paddle wheel EXCEPT for the plastic Lauren Bell and the long clear semi-teardrop shaped plastic along the side of the Lauren Bell.

Drop the new belt the new belt between the paddle wheel and the hole in the play field. I worked with a small hook type pick and wrapped that belt around the paddle wheel itself until I could pull it over to the other side of the paddle wheel where the paddle wheel pulley is. Then, you go under the PF and hook it around the pulley. I had to raise and lower the PF several times to pull and tug the belt into place, but the only time I ever stretched it at all was when I hooked it I onto both pulleys. After I had the new pulley in place, I cut the old dry rotted pulley out.

Also, I know that there have been people that have replaced the bottom pulley with a 2.5 inch pulley to speed up the paddle wheel. The Australian Small parts website no longer offers it. Has anyone been able to source one from somewhere else? I’m thinking of making one with some special order fender washers and then coating them in plasti-dip IF I can’t find one online.

Yes. These are still obtainable, no longer promoting this range as pricing has increased. New price is $91.60 + GST each. 5 in stock in the factory, approx. 2-3 weeks delivery

Hi. Newbee here. I'm replacing my wheel entrance optos since their acting up 30% of the time. I still play but turn the volume way down as the LB whistle blows constantly when not working correctly. Here's my question. Unlike the optos under the LB, the ones at the paddle wheele entrance are mounted with plastic rivits that seems I'll have to destroy to remove the old boards. How would you recommend I attach the new optos?

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