(Topic ID: 79446)

Maverick fan thread - We play till we drop, winner takes all!

By Atomicboy

6 years ago

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#5 6 years ago

Waiting for the ball to go through paddlewheel is really no different than waiting for *gulp* the ferris wheel in Cyclone.

Lauren Belle is the "goody bag" mode of the game, I love getting those snacks.

Maverick is just an overall fun game, there's always something to shoot for. It be easy at times and other times it can challenge. Poker, Blackjack, good sound and music, it's all good.

#19 6 years ago

Has anyone thought of lighting up the topper? I've been toying around with the idea of some kind of backlighting, maybe sequential or triggered with the flashers. Just something because it's o.k. but boring.

Another idea I had was some kind of poker art/border on the inside cabinet, where people would normally put mirror blades.

#25 6 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

That doesn't sound right at all... There is a rubber ring/belt to the wheel from the motor, and a large gear/round plastic wheel. When I shopped mine, I took all this apart, the paddle wheel, this gear, cleaned everything, and synthetic lubed where the gear attaches, and I believed I noticed a difference in the speed slightly after.
It could be your gear box underneath is just gummed up, but this might be worth a try. Maybe the rubber ring needs replacing.
Mine is I'm guessing 4-5 seconds from when it enters until it's spit out into the boat to lock. This depends on if the ball enters the wheel are when an opening is there, or if it has to turn a bit for the next opening to come around.

+1. On mine at least, it's not a big enough wait to warrant risking damage to the paddlewheel mechanism trying to modify it, and I have not seen a mod for it either. I lubed my gears with a very tiny amount of model train gear grease (molytone grease)

#29 6 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

the only problem with this machine is the huge display. Great game all around and tons of fun. If the big displays were cheaper I would still own it! One of the best DE machines for sure!!!!

I wouldn't let the fear of a DMD problem prevent me from getting this game. I think most of the problems stem from the DMD cable anyway...mine was fixed by replacing with a new $12.00 cable modification as per the DE service bulletin.

#36 6 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

I think he's talking about the 5v connector to the DMD board. I always, on any DE to Stern, replace this connector with a molex and trifurcons and reflow the headers. Poor design.

It is the 5v connector, but besides a new connector on the DMD controller end, the other end actually gets moved to take power off of a different header on the PSU board, supposedly one that is more stable. Service bulleting #106, and a preformed cable is available at Marco Specialties. All you have to do is remove the old cable and install the new, punching it into the IDC at a different place. http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/sb106.pdf.

This totally solved my problem of the display going off intermittently - it's been rock solid ever since - and it is beautiful. Everyone loves it. Other problems can happen with DMDs of course, but I think cabling and HV section problems are probably more common that outgassing, and some might be misdiagnosed. Problems can happen with smaller DMDs as well, it's just that the larger ones I guess are more expensive. I personally did not let the "possibility" that a DMD could die scare me away from a really good game.

#38 6 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

I'd love it if they could speed it up. Honestly, it's my only real nit-pick with the game. It's not frustratingly slow, but it's one of the slower shot to ball return actions.

I have thought about ways to do this, but I have never seen the mod that people have mentioned.

The gearing system is pretty intricate, there are a lot of gears. I don't have enough information to muck with the motor. One thought I had was to increase the size of the under playfield pulley that runs the belt drive, that would increase the speed of the turns, but would it negatively impact the torque to where it couldn't turn with the weight of the ball? I'm not sure. Another mod would be to take the wheel out, and make additional cutouts to hold the ball between the existing ones, so that there is no wait time to scoop up a ball in the lane.

Overall, for 5 seconds of beer swig time to reduce that to 3 or 4, didn't seem worth the trouble...it's not really a long wait at all, unless, yours is not working "normally". Like I mentioned before, it's really not any longer than waiting for the ferris wheel in cyclone. If that's a big deal to someone, then I guess get a game that doesn't have those kind of features. Honestly, at my age constant lightning speed action with hardly a break is tiring to begin with, so I will purposely shoot those shots - such as the Lauren Belle, or the Ferris Wheel, or Pinbots eyes, just to give my brain a few seconds to catch up.

#40 6 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

If I ever buy a beer helmet, maybe only then will I get annoyed with the slow paddlewheel haha

+ a million!

#42 6 years ago

Internet Pinball Database says " This game was produced starting Sep-25-1994. We do not have the final production date.". It's hard to say how many Data East versions and Sega versions were made. Sega took over the factory in 1996.

The hedgehoge logo is a part of the boot splash on the Sega versions, so you probably would just need to change the ROMs. IPDB has ROM files posted, but I don't know which version they are.

#48 6 years ago
Quoted from the4horse:

I thought the only difference was the display software but I could be wrong...mine doesn't display the characters in the movie and of course has the Data East logo and no Sega and Sonic. The shooter knob on my Data East has 'DE Maverick Casino'...did that change on the Sega models?
I also read somewhere that around 7000 machines were produced but not sure how many by each company.

I read somewhere that the DE or Sega's logo wasn't featured anywhere on the machine because Stern didn't know who was going to produce it, which is why the usual identifier is what is shown on the DMD.

I don't know about the shooter knob detail, I will have to remember to look at my Sega version when I am at home.

#51 6 years ago
Quoted from LesManley:

I am installing a brand new ramp in my Maverick. I have to rivet the old ramp flap to the new ramp. Anyone know the best tool to use for that so that the rivets look as close to original as possible? Most hand tools do rivets that have the dimples, where ramp flaps are have normally convex rivets where they bulge out a little like a button. Is there a cheap tool that does rivets this way that anyone knows about?

Does it really look that different to be of a concern. This is certainly something that I honestly have not said to myself "I have to inspect the rivets to see if they look original. If they do the job...It's just not something that I would waste any time worrying about, IMO.

#53 6 years ago
Quoted from LesManley:

No, I normally wouldn't bother at all. Just checking to see if there was an easy way to do the other rivets since right now I don't have any rivet gun at all.

Ah I see. Good luck, sorry I don't have a recommendation - except to post a new thread inquiring about riveting ramps, maybe you will get the information you desire then,

#54 6 years ago
Quoted from the4horse:

I thought the only difference was the display software but I could be wrong...mine doesn't display the characters in the movie and of course has the Data East logo and no Sega and Sonic. The shooter knob on my Data East has 'DE Maverick Casino'...did that change on the Sega models?
I also read somewhere that around 7000 machines were produced but not sure how many by each company.

Hey Atomicboy, I checked my shooter rod and it has the DE Maverick Casino logo on the handle, interesting because I have the ROMs that display Sega startup info.

#56 6 years ago

This one pic captures a couple of the mods I have done on Maverick.

>Poker border on the inside cabinet wall.
>Light inside the Lauren Belle
>Smokestacks on the Lauren Belle
>Playing card spotlight shield on the back wall


#58 6 years ago
Quoted from the4horse:

I love it! I was thinking of putting mirror blades on mine but the ramp on the left is sooo close to the wood, I wasn't sure they would fit without scratching. Is yours a thin vinyl?

Yeah it's a thin vinyl. Like a decal. I am sure if I open the game too many times a might scratch it. But I have enough left over from the roll I can either cut a patch or replace it entirely. Go slow and be careful when opening the game is about all I can do. Maybe if you were restoring the cabinet a clear coat would improve upon this. It still looks a thousand times better than the plain brown wood.

Quoted from the4horse:

I have the twin white led's in my spotlights and the shield is a great idea to focus away from the eyes.

Mine are the 5 way high power spot LEDs, right after I installed them I was distracted by the ones facing the player, almost aimed directly back at you. The shield idea allows them to do the job of illuminating the back of the playfield but blocks them from direct line of vision when playing. I used some flexible aluminum sheathing. It's easy to cut with shears (use tin snips and heavy gloves for safety). Drill a single hole and share the same mounting screw as the spotlight bracket and bend it over the top of the LEDs at a right angle. I chose to epoxy the playing card on top of it to blend in to the theme of the game.

#61 6 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

Nice mods......I miss my machine ..oh yea the protos were wide body and had the regular sized dmd as well! I want one badly. Good luck ever finding one though


Quoted from Hawk007:

Good luck ever finding one though

Might never need one.

#62 6 years ago
Quoted from LesManley:

Did you make those? I would like to see something that matches the back mountain plastic. Would fit well with having the Lauren Bell as well. My sides are all scraped out though, so I would have to fix those and make sure whatever is causing it doesn't happen again first.

I didn't make, bought it on Ebay.

Here's an example of western landscape that might work, there are others as well:
ebay.com link » Country Western El Dorado Canyon Train Mountain Lodge Roll Wall Wallpaper Border

#64 6 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

I have mirror blades on almost all my machines. I started the use of using larger construction paper folded over the rails of the cab, inserted between the blades (or inside of cab) and the PF. Then when you raise the PF up or forward, depending on the game, the construction paper works as a barrier, and despite some heavy rubbing on some machines, no marks on the blades, which scratch very easy.
As for the rear left spotlights, I used old style frosted cool whites. They can be looked at without being blinding, and still light that rear area nicely.

Good idea on the paper. Thanks!

1 week later
4 months later
#82 5 years ago
Quoted from PhilGreg:

I think it's some kind of conspiracy why this machine doesn't get any more love. Not sure who's behind it all, maybe ol' Mel would know.

I think the top reasons why it is not more of a crowd pleaser:

-Anti Mel folks. Me and the misses love his movies, Maverick included. We could care less about the gossip/politics etc..
-The large DMD failure scare. Sure they are expensive. Sure they can have problems. Do they all? No. Same goes for the optos. If you learn that these are just a different type of switch and they are repairable, they are no problem at all.
- Waiting for paddlewheel ("slows the flow"). I call this opportunity to drink, smoke, kick your opponent. Approximately the same wait time as Cyclone's ferris wheel.

For me, the theme of gambling on any pinball machine bears more investigation...and this one represents it quite nicely.

4 weeks later
#91 5 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

Thanks! I actually topped that score recently. Grand Champion!

That's really close to my top score (I use 5-ball) Is that 3 or 5 ball?

#93 5 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

I use 3-ball. I award extra ball at 750,000,000 and 1,500,000,000. So basically 5-ball...lol.

Ah, yes! lol.

#96 5 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

I have attract mode on but there is no music unless I play...Is there any music or sounds in attract mode?

No music, only one sound. Eventually it will display "BSMT 2000 Sound System" on the DMD and let out a droning hum sound when that happens. That's it.

#97 5 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

What else am I missing? Apparently a hex post...is it a short one or does it actually attach to something? Anything go in that hole behind the paddle wheel?

I'm not sure I see the hex post you are referring to, and mine also has the same phantom hole with nothing in it.

2 weeks later
#114 5 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

What? Down the right outlane, it rolls to the left outlane and initiates the kicker? No, I've never seen that on Mav, but I had it happen a few times on the couple T2's I have had over the years.

I've had F-14 Tomcat do that a couple of times from both the center drain and right outlane.

2 months later
#132 5 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Another question for you Maverick owners. Do you have extra, unused connector in your cabinets? Specifically nead the coin door and power switch? I have 4 connectors that are just sitting there unsused and wasn;t sure if that was "normal" or not. Here are some pics...

Yep, normal - I have them too. Some are for bill validators, shaker motor (not used in this game)
No worries.

#137 5 years ago
Quoted from dementedwarlok:

i keep seeing this plastic where the heck does it go?
ebay.com link » Maverick Pinball Plastic Poker Hand

I've seen that one before too. I've never seen it installed on a Maverick game though.

#146 5 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

Glad to see this thread still kicking. One day, one day this rule set will get the appreciation it deserves. You all know now how hard it is getting to the championship, and how much you have to take care in winning hands and not losing, and raising to get modes started faster…. and that’s just to START the modes.
I still think it is one of the best rule sets in pinball. Again, I have around 30 machines, 8 of the top rated 10, a lot of so called A listers, and this rule set is easily one of the best ever done, I'm sure of this. Put that together with the 17 drops, and how they are used - pure genius.

I just started aggressively pursuing the championship mode, I mean aggressively. I have played over a dozen games at the last few sessions and still only came very close to getting into the championship mode. Part of my strategy I have modified to hopefully obtain it soon. The last session I ignored shooting for points, ignored multiball, and even attempted catching and holding the ball during mode play to let the timer run out so that I am taking less risk at losing the ball. My focus is entirely on advancing poker hands and the start mode skill shot. It's still a difficult objective for me.

I will have to try again today,
it's gnawing at me to get to the championship mode

#151 5 years ago

Finally! Got in the Poker Championship! ...of course it was 5-ball, but it was a tough for me.

IMG_20141101_174104514.jpg IMG_20141101_174238216-715.jpg
#168 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

anybody have some creative LED pics. Shopping one for a friend and want to make it nice....red flipper bands?

I didn't get "creative" with my LED choices. I highly recommend warm white frosted LEDs behind the translite, rather than colors.

#174 5 years ago

The only color accent I can think of doing is yellow under the yellow lane guides at the top of the playfield. I forgot to do them when I last ordered LEDs.

#176 5 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

I'm thinking of changing the lights for the right ramp in the sign, as they are red and orange, and whether you use regular bulbs and condoms, or frosted LED, the red and orange together just don't seem enough apart in colour.

I changed them around a couple of times, settled on both red as what I like best.

#183 5 years ago
Quoted from the4horse:

I've only seizured a few times from my led's

BRIGHT! I couldn't deal with that LED spot at the back of the playfield shining right back at me, so I made this shield out of aluminum and epoxied a playing card to the top of it.

shield1.jpg shield2.jpg
#185 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

anyone else have trouble with the far top left lane guide. There are 4 lane guides and ball gets stuck resting on the left wire switch arm. The wire target seems just like the other 3. My guess is it is so close to top of pf that ball gets stuck there. Friend I am shopping it for says it gets stuck there all the time. Only guess is to bend wire down a bit so it takes less force to move wire down to activate switch?

Mine never gets stuck there. Probably something with the switch arm, make sure it's centered And not rubbing on the playfield before you attempt to bend it, and be really careful if you do decide to try and bend it.

#190 5 years ago
Quoted from dementedwarlok:

Where you get those sides from I need a set

Dementedwarlock, that was roll self adhesive wall border, I bought it online from Ebay. I had to remove it because it began to tear from lifting the playfield. It might work better if it was clear coated after installing.

#194 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Refresh my memory. How do you run switch test. It just keeps showing balls in trough switches. I'll take balls out. How do I test each switch individually

open coin door, forward/reverse switch in the down position
depress step switch repeatedly until you get to switch tests (pg 30 in manual)

#205 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Finished shopping and it looks great. Of course now I have an entire switch column out. Makes no sense. It's the column with the 5 ball trough switches. Green red wire. I get continuity from all switches in the colmn Has to be on board connector? Any other reason I would lose this colmn. I did not touch any switches in this column and it was working perfect. I have to say the wiring under pf is very organized and tightly secured. Any ideas ?

Start by checking at the connector for the column in the head make sure you didn't pull a wire up there. Check the board itself to make sure the column in question is operational with the direct jump method. If all is fine there, you'll know for certain there's something you overlooked with the playfield wiring.

#215 5 years ago

Adj 1 set to Fixed or Manual - I would assume this to be set to Fixed.
Adj 3 set replay levels to 2?
Not at my game so I can't tell more than that, just looking at the manual.

* Bump for the pinhead with OCD *

#220 5 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

Adjustment 1 says fixed/manual and right below is says manual 10%...No idea what that means.

Right there ^ ....you need to adjust #1 down from the 10% to 0% and the display should read "fixed" (The 10% that you have it set to is allowing the games computer to calculate the new replay score, Pg 19 in the manual)

#226 5 years ago

I would guess the belt is probably stretched. Mine doesn't hesitate at all when the ball enters. My friends Cyclone's ferris would stutter when the weight of the ball hit it, though. Changing to a new belt made it work.

#242 5 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

ass with the sword


1 month later
#260 5 years ago
Quoted from dementedwarlok:

the flyer shows data east on the dmd. mine has sega on the dmd and data east on the shooter rod

Sega bought Data East's pinball division in 1994 during the production of Maverick.

#261 5 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

I had Replay Boost set to ON. Turned off and that fixed the replay levels for good!
So today I had a scare. I had a ball get stuck so I removed the glass and dropped the ball down the drain...the machine still thought ball was in play so I turned machine off and on again. When I turned it on I was greeted with an error message stating I had to bad switches "boat lock". For the entire next game no balls would lock. When game was over 2 balls drained from Loren Belle from previous game when ball got stuck. Now it works perfectly fine. Anyone ever experienced anything like this?

If it's working fine now and passes all the switch tests without error, you should be fine. Sometimes if you power down and up or restart a game with the balls floating around, or during the middle of a game, this might confuse the game's program. Remember that the switches are the only thing telling the computer brain where the balls are at any given time. Always make sure you wait a few seconds before powering up too, and not just flip the switch off and on rapidly.

4 weeks later
#272 5 years ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

I´m in the club as well here.
My Maverick is in good condition but it has two problems.
1, Firing off the ball.
2, The Lauren Belle starts to make noices after approx 10 minutes.
3, Also have the OPTO problem pre entry to the Lauren Belle.

1. I have a Williams red spring installed in mine. I have my pitch at 7.4 degrees, and have no problem rounding a full ramp shot.
2. Sounds like your motor needs to be replaced.
3. The original opto board is mounted to the bracket with some plastic rivets, with an insulating tape behind the board. there should also be a tie wrap around the connector. Nothing should move. When repairing these, if the rivet is loose or broken, you should use some small nuts and bolts with a lockwasher as a suitable replacement.


2 weeks later
#276 5 years ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Also how the heck do you hit the captive ball on Maverick? I've tried to make it bounce or rebound off things, but it seems impossible to hit.

I hit it off a direct shot, or sometimes an indirect rebound off the edge of the 3 target bank, but from the right LOWER flipper. I find it nearly impossible to hit with the upper right flipper because the ball is usually moving too fast. It's still a very difficult to shot for me, I don't hit it often enough.

#279 5 years ago

I bought a few from Marco. It doesn't hurt to have some spares. If you broke one, there's a chance another is cracking and ready to go. I also bought a sheet of the decals because I needed to replace some of those too.

#284 5 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

I just checked Marco and for Maverick there are two types of drop targets listed. A non wedge and a wider wedge shaped drop target. Thing is mine look like they are the same size as the non wedge shaped but my targets are wedge shaped...Ideas?

The ones I used were part #545-5048-01. No problems with appearance or function. I don't know if that answers your question.

#286 5 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

I still believe this machine has one of the best rulesets in pinball, completely undiscovered, even by many that own it. Many that do own it still really don't understand how many aspects work.

Well said!

2 weeks later
#319 5 years ago
Quoted from PhilGreg:

Did you do a switch matrix test?
I don't think that the flippers go through the switch matrix, so the flippers could be working and a row/column be out.

The switch matrix gets a signal for lane change report to the MPU. Left flipper is switch #63. If the row/column were out you'd have a lot more problems than just the flipper. This is not related to EOS. The EOS is not a functional item in the game, see page 90 of the manual for theory of operation.

When the solidstate flipper system was introduced on Robocop, DataEast stopped using a doubled up switch on the flipper EOS switches for the lane change. The lane change switch was moved to the cabinet flipper switch. This was done because the cabinet flipper switch on solidstate flipper games was a low voltage switch. This meant there was less potential switch matrix problems with the switch located here instead.

So, check for broken wire/bad switch at the cabinet flipper buttons, or broken wire at another switch in the daisy chain for that row or column.

#321 5 years ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Checked close last night when I resoldered and also adjusted the cabinet button switch. I suppose though, the switch could still have issues. Will also look for broken wires including in the daisy chain.
Thanks for the answers here so far!

No problem. Let us know what you find.

1 week later
#328 5 years ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Posted this on a topic thread, but also trying here as I realize I might get some great ideas here.
Turned Maverick on and got an error message re: the upper optos in the paddlewheel. Basically the balls won't lock so I can't get multiball. Took the optos out and cleaned the leds with alcohol and that didn't help. Reflowed solder and looked for anything else that could obviously be an issue.
Read what I could find on Pinside and found the below article from the manufacturer that gives detailed instructions on working on this problem.
Followed all of the steps, 1-4.
Went into diagnostics
Blocked beam and no response.
Visually inspected and they're glowing.
Did the suggestion item 4 of jumpering and no response which indicates a switch matrix issue. Have looked and looked for broken wires, tested other switches (they're all working correctly) and fuses. Reconnected relevant connectors. I'm out of ideas.
Might consider the reed switch fix but I'm assuming since this could be a switch matrix issue that wouldn't help right now.
What else can I try?.

Right, reed switch will be of no help if you jumper the wires and get no response. A switch is still a switch as far as the matrix is concerned regardless if it is mechanical, opto or reed.

I assume you mean switch number 46 back lock OPTO according to the switch matrix chart (pg. 30 in the manual) If all the other switches work in row 6 and column 6, it pretty much *must* be a broken connection from one of the other switches. A continuity check of the GRN-BLU and WHT-BLU wires back to the other switches should identify where it is going wrong. Put your probe on the GRN-BLU at the opto, and find the GRN-BLU at another switch such as one of the turbo bumpers. If you have continuity there is ok, then try the same thing with the WHT-BLU at the opto to another switch with WHT-BLU, such as the TOP LANE MIDDLE LEFT. You should find either the row or column isn't making it to the opto switch.

#330 5 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

Stern optos are very narrow in beam. Use a white piece of paper and put between the beam at the receiver side (this is evident when you put it on either side), and make sure the beam of light is actually meeting up with the receiver side. Stern/sega optos are difficult this way, and fall out of alignment.

I think I misinterpreted the problem. Now it would seem that the error message is on because switch is stuck closed. I was thinking the switch just was not registering in switch test.

Now that I think about it - OP, did you remove the wires from the receiver before attempting that shorting test? or did you just short them while they were connected? If the light is not getting to the receiver <or> the reciever is holding the column & row shorted, MPU interprets switch is closed all the time, you will get the error message.

#332 5 years ago

*responded in question specific new thread *

#334 5 years ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

HI Guys.
I mentioned I had a problem with the motor running the Belle... I have located the problem further up and need your advice now.
The relay before the motor is bad. That is the one making the rattling noise and subsequently let´s uneven power through to the motor. Thus the motor and gears rattle and shake. This happens only in attract mode. In attract mode the motor is supposed to be off. However the relay, weak as it is (due to time probably ?), cannot resist and hold back the voltage but it leaks through..
If i change the relay would that do it or wold there still be a problem higher up in the flow ? If my math is right there is constant voltage to the relay. Why put a relay inbetween and not have the motor CPU controlled and shut power off when the game is in attract mode ? Could the game be putting out higher voltage than the relay can handle ? If so, could there be a bad transistor involved further up ? I have to add also that the DMD goes black when the relay starts rattling.
Thanks for any advice if I´m on the right track.
Matt in Sweden

I doubt the game putting out too much for the relay. I somewhat doubt the relay is bad based on description, but a bad relay is not out of the question I suppose. IMO more likely that something wrong upstream is turning on the relay, causing the chatter. Disconnect the relay coil and check with a voltmeter.

#336 5 years ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

I have to add also that the problem seems to be heat related.... The game plays fine in the beginning. After anywhere between 8-15 minutes the relay starts going bananas.
Bad solder joint maybe ?

Here is breakdown of what logic chips control the following TIP122/2N4401 transistor pairs:
Q15/Q23: The 7408 at 1J, which connects to PIA 5F (6821).

I would check the 7408 at 1J with a probe or scope to make sure it isn't pulsing driving transistor Q23.

mav1.jpg mav2.jpg
1 week later
#339 5 years ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

I know about the reed switch option to replace the optos above the paddle wheel. Has anyone here ever replaced any of the optos involved in the ball locks area. I think one of mine died and no one sells to sell these at alll.

Which part is suspect? Newark has the transistors, the rest of the components are just common resistors and visible light LEDs. I replaced a transmitter LED with a red one that I scavenged out of a camper's headlight. Works great.

Schematics are on the service bulletin

1 week later
#343 5 years ago

I have red spring in mine, make sure shooter tip is good and shooter sleeve is new/clean.

1 month later
#351 4 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Thanks guys. That connector has a wite tie around it holding it in place, did yours have the too? All my opto boards have wire ties and they look factory...

Yes mine, too. It's important to make sure that everything does not move. The opto boards should be securely fastened to the playfield, and the connection should have no chance of vibration working it loose- that's what the tie helps provide. You can also use a little hot melt glue over the connector to keep it in place as another option.

1 month later
#397 4 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

For example, on my machine sometimes the pop bumpers make a lot of noise like trickling money or something...but sometimes they don't. I'm thinking what you're hearing on your machine is normal.

I also believe this normal. I think it is just a case of multiple sound effect cues fighting for execution when many events are happening at one time. Try the switches manually with the glass off to make sure they trip the appropriate cues.

1 week later
#400 4 years ago

It is strongly recommended that game ROM chip and display ROM chip(s) are the same major revision level to avoid any software incompatibilities. Such as "A4.00" for game ROM, and "A4.00" for display ROM(s), or "A3.01" for game ROM, and "A3.13" for display ROMs, etc. Mixing major revision levels of game and display roms may cause game to not work properly (such as A4.00 game rom with A3.00 display rom.)

It's quite possible that no formal revision log was ever published to the public. It was probably on an email or read me file for the software engineers at SEGA DE, - regardless, I have not found one.

2 months later
#430 4 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

What about winning streaks and perfect hands? Does that affect number of chips won?

Your winning streak is also increased by one when you win a hand. This value can be increased in several ways, as follows.

Raise/Fold: If you shoot the VUK before completing the drop target bank, you are given a choice to raise or fold. If you raise, then the value of that hand is doubled. If you subsequently win the hand by hitting the flashing drop target bank before discards hits 0, then you score 10M times your current winning streak, and your winning streak is incremented by 2. If you fold, the game re-deals, resets the drop targets, and selects a different hand for you to complete. Note that if you fold, your winning streak count is not affected, and therefore it is advantageous to fold than to lose a hand.

Perfect: If you complete the flashing drop target bank without discarding (that is, without hitting any other drop target), you score a perfect hand, and the score for that hand is tripled. Therefore, if you did not raise, you score 15M times your current winning streak, and increase winning streak by one, and if you did raise, you score 30M times your current winning streak, and increase your winning streak by two.

Close Call: If you complete the flashing drop target bank with only one discard remaining, you get a close call, and the score for that hand is doubled. Therefore, if you did not raise, you score 10M times your current winning streak, and increase winning streak by one, and if you did raise, you score 20M times your current winning streak, and increase your winning streak by two.

more at:

#438 4 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

the mega importance of hitting the different shots at the right time, and why never missing a skill is big as well.....every flailing only hurts you, even without draining, it's a thinking man's machine for sure.

+ a million. Well said.

#440 4 years ago

Frankly, I have always thought the topper, well....boring. I jazzed it up with some CT warm white blinker LEDs and a 9 lamp #44 socket bracket found in a scrap parts bin at the Cleveland Pinball Show. Wired to GI with a lamp in every other socket puts a lamp behind each card for a little retro blinker action

2 weeks later
#443 4 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

I have noticed a few times during Coops Cash it isn't registering my right orbit shots...hard to see what switch should be registering at this time. Is it mechanical or an opto? Can I get to it from under the playfield or do I have to pull everything off? Anyone know?

It's a wire rollover switch in the loop. If it isn't registering orbit shots, clean and adjust it. Make sure to adjust it so a fast moving ball will trip it, don't just use your finger. "Right Orbit Rollover" switch at the upper right corner - see pg 6 in the manual.

#446 4 years ago

Make sure the switch registers accurately 100% in test mode. Keep in mind that once this is verified, you might notice this quirk in gameplay occasionally when multiple sound effects are fighting for attention in the system. As long as the switch is being registered accurately I don't think there is more you can do beyond that.

1 month later
#455 4 years ago
Quoted from DiegoWally:

Early teenage 70s pinball fein here. I've never bought a machine and am stoked about what I'm reading here! Have a western bar-pool table-TV room that needs a machine with a western theme...
Looks like I found the place.
A Maverick completely done up right (all the best) with good long life ahead...What would be top dollar you'd pay for this?
Hell, one with mbott's LCD screens (bad ass).
Ready to buy. Researched the going rate here a bit, not quite sure how much more to pay for all being fixed up to the 9s, and thought to ask true fans, since it looks like I'm gonna be one.

Not that I would sell mine, but to be completely honest got a nice, but not minty for $1400 only around a couple of years ago. Full LEDs and a couple of mods at this exact time I would value it at $1700. So I would say that for what you are asking $2000 would probably be the ceiling.

#458 4 years ago
Quoted from DiegoWally:

Is there a list of options/upgrades that are an absolute must in purchasing a Maverick that'll deliver longer life?

This is pretty much the only one I can think of: DMD needs an upgrade, the kit can be purchased at a number of suppliers including Marco Specialties and Pinball Life.

#464 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Fairly certain that's mummified remains of a mouse in the vertical up kicker.

that's downright creepy

1 week later
#474 4 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Also, any thoughts on fixing my main ramp... it's sagged just enough to the right that the ball can get caught on the 4th drop hole if it doesn't have enough speed to make it up to the top. Should I replace the plastic or can I heat it just enough to get it to angle back left properly? Maybe a video would better explain what's going wrong if I'm the only one having the issue. Thanks!

You are not the only one with this issue. For lack of a best way to fix, such as a new ramp - my temporary solution to this was to build up a small hump using some foil tape right at the spot where the ball would normally stick. It works for now.

1 week later
#477 4 years ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

Can you guys provide some tips how to led the backbox to really stand out. There isn't much variation other than some blue in the bottom right corner and the Maverick letters in red.
I need ideas. Please shot some pics of your backbox both open and closed to get me going further. I'm stuck and not satisfied...

Maverick translight image is a photo collage and does not work well with colorized bulbs at all, best bet is plain warm white. I think it looks great that way and really pops.

1 week later
#480 4 years ago
Quoted from gehmann:

Yesterday I replaced the batteries behind the back glass to move them away from the pcb behind there, so obviously all the settings reset on the machine. The one thing i can't figure out though is that after a game it always used to say "It's gonna be a real pleasure playing with you again" but now it just simply says "Bye". I've looked through the manual multiple times and I can't seem to find anything pertaining to what is said at the end of a game. I was wondering if anyone here had any insight on this.

Mine just says "Bye"

#482 4 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

I'm hoping to get some help from a Maverick owner. My paddleboat wheel isn't moving and the balls get stuck up there and the game is essentially over at that point.
here is my thread with some pics:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/maverick-the-movie-help-no-paddlewheel-movement
Has anyone here done a mickey mouse job to get that pulled connected? Or can someone steer me in a good direction for a replacement? I would love to play TODAY!!!


2 weeks later
#487 4 years ago
Quoted from muzikman:

Just got a Maverick and am trying to fix her up. I have a broken coil wire that connects to the paddle wheel motor. I'm hoping and I can just repair the broken wire - it sounds possible based on a bit of googling similar issues. Can someone please take a pic of the coil or let me know if there are one or two wires coming out of it - I only see one red coil wire sticking out as of now. Here's a pic of the connector wire that it must attach to. Thanks!

There's always two wires on every coil...you have to have a circuit, a path, for the electricity to flow. The wire with neon lamp goes to one side of the motor. In fact, the very fine wire looks to be part of the motor coil that was ripped away. The other wht/red wire goes to 28VAC power. The motor should have a solid white wire coming off the other terminal that goes back to the other leg of 28VAC power (diagram below)


2 weeks later
#491 4 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

Is this previous acid damage? Hoping I have no more issues. Could the batteries go bad in a year? They were energizer.

First, get those batteries off the board. Now. Even new alkaline batteries can leak prematurely (quality defects, been on shelf too long etc.) Get an NVRAM, memory capacitor or off-board battery holder. Keep alkaline batteries off CPU boards, period.

As to the damage done...yes, it is certainly *old* acid damage. I zoomed in at those components, and they have significant damage, those diodes to the right and the cap as well. The problem is, when you go to clean acid damage that has spread beyond the battery holder is that you are already too late. If you can see it on component legs, there is a strong possibility it has migrated INTO the component bodies. It will keep on munching away at them after cleaning externally. The only way to correct it is to replace the components. You might also have corrosion on those battery terminals causing some resistance that is showing up as an intermittent ability to hold settings/data.

If it were my game, I'd seriously consider replacing that group of components that look the worst, get the batteries off the board, and then see how that goes.

2 months later
#504 4 years ago
Quoted from DiegoWally:

I'll give this adjustment a shot. Seems like a good measure of prevention, even if it might lower the amount of times I hit the captive ball...

I think he means "raised the drop targets so they are level with the playfield"...this will prevent the ball from getting stuck in the channel cutout for the drops. If they are too high or too low you may have problems, the only acceptable adjustment is to have the tops level with the playing surface so that the ball can roll over them.

3 weeks later
#517 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I could remove the glass and trigger the switch with my finger and it would work for a game or two and then would just stop working.

In case you didn't know, you should always check switches using a ball, and not your finger. Your finger can usually push a switch farther than the ball will, so it may work with your finger, then fail in gameplay when the ball should activate it. Just a helpful hint.

1 month later
#534 3 years ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

Anyone use different LEDS for.the optics or use mechanical switches?

I ripped apart an LED camping headlamp and used those LED to repair my transmitter. Has been running for years without a problem.

4 weeks later
#544 3 years ago
Quoted from DiegoWally:

Do I need to go all in and reflow the solder on the opto board? I get this message after advancing through the complete diagnostics?
There is a slight thumping, near the Lauren Belle, during a game, and/or sometimes after. Sounds just like the light thump you hear just before the ball locks. Ball refuses to lock at all, . Passes through the LB every time, even with Locks 1 or 2 or 3 lit and flashing
Really hope to have it resolved by the 4th, so friends and family can fully enjoy. Any help would be much appreciated.

The bottom lock is the one closest to the front of the Lauren Belle. Remove the screws and take the Lauren Belle off. With the game on, look at the left side of the Lauren Belle. If you see a red illuminated lamp, your transmitter is operating. The other side is the receiver, make sure that the transmitter is aimed directly at it. If it is but still not working, most likely the receiver is the opto that needs attention, remove it and look for cracked or broken solder or wiring there.

#546 3 years ago

Also note that there is a very detailed service bulletin for troubleshooting Maverick optos. Maverick uses standard visible red light LEDs on the opto boards, where some other games use infrared. This is helpful, because most folks will probably have a stash of 5mm visible red LEDs lying around that can be used to repair an opto board on Maverick.



#548 3 years ago
Quoted from DiegoWally:

Thank you for the advice WayOut and GLSP. Took boat off and all looked good and worked fine when tested this morning (game was off all night). Looks like it is probably a works-when-cold and acts-up-when warm/hot issue. Started noticing the slight thumping sound while game was on and I was in the another room a few of weeks ago (it happened on two occasions). I didn't think about playing it, I just shut it off. It started malfunctioning after about 7-8 games last night and when I ran the diagnostics, it briefly displayed that message. Should I be looking at soldering all connections?

I would, especially the wires. I had one that the LED lead actually cracked under the LED, there was nothing to do but replace it. Not saying that is your problem, but it is another possibility.


3 weeks later
#560 3 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

Man...sometimes this hobby really hurts my feelings...lol. My paddle wheel entrance receiver opto was flaking out again a year after reflow reflowing solder to fix it. Reflowed solder a week ago and already having a problem again. Thought maybe opto was just shot but it only happens after on a while so has to be poor or cold solder joints right?

*assuming* you've correctly soldered...you have some other problem. I had an LED go bad internally in the housing, and it had to be replaced. No amount of reflow will correct that, as an example. If you see a crack in the solder, by all means reflow. If the solder looks good, it is likely good.

3 weeks later
#575 3 years ago
Quoted from DiegoWally:

Hope I'm not screwed here...Changed a bulb on the Maverick the other night behind the right slingshot, and now Column 7 on Switch Matrix is out. No go on switches 49-55. All share same connector CN8 on the CPU . Any help would be much appreciated...

Momentarily short CN8-8 to CN10-7 in switch test mode. If the switch registers (this is #51 right slingshot), then you've probably knocked off the column wire (grn-vio) from one of the switches in that column. If it does not register the switch when shorting at the CPU, then likely a CPU board issue - either coincidence or accidentally shorted when you changed the bulb.

2 months later
#584 3 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

Still hoping for some assistance here from somebody that has replaced their motor. Do the black wires just go directly into the connector without the fuse thing and the connection wire?

The fuse thing?...you mean the neon lamp? Just an inexpensive and not very precise way to provide surge suppression to reduce inductive kickback from the motor. I would just transfer the old one to the the new motor.

1 month later
#592 3 years ago

Adam, which of the 5 bank drop target switches are not registering? There are two 5-bank drop target sets, so could you please indicate them by number? So far we have this on the switch matrix chart, highlighting the non-working switches that you have indicated.

Screenshot at 2016-12-04 06-34-54 (resized).png

#594 3 years ago
Quoted from ahdelarge:

Thanks for the response. I have printed out the switch matrix chart.
The Upper Left 5 Bank Drop Target coil isn't firing. The 5 switches in that bank aren't registering in the switch test.
Number 63 left flipper lower isn't registering in switch test either.

Being that the color coding is absent, I would start with DMM continuity checks from the switches to the board connectors.

Starting with the right turbo bumper, I would check if the switch diode anode side has continuity to CN10-7, and that the opposite side has continuity to CN8-7. There should be a pair of wires from each terminal, as from the diagram this is a switch in the middle of the daisy chains for both rows and columns. The diagrams below also indicate which switches the bumper is daisy chained to in case it fails the continuity checks.

Screenshot at 2016-12-04 08-04-36 (resized).png

Screenshot at 2016-12-04 08-07-48 (resized).png

#596 3 years ago

Look at the schematic, see how the wires for the columns come in at the top of the page and the row wires come in from the right? At the far left and bottom of the schematic I have highlighted the switches that do not daisy chain (have no next switch beyond them to require to pass a signal through - and thus do not require a second wire)

Make sure you label those non-color coded wires as you are figuring out where they go, it will help with troubleshooting now and in the future.

last (resized).jpg

#598 3 years ago
Quoted from ahdelarge:

Also, I noticed that the right rollover (right return or right outlane, trying to recall from memory) lane has only one green-grey wire attached ...Next to this is a green-blue wire dangling in mid air.

Green-blue is the correct column color for the right return lane switch #47. In some D/E games this would be a pair of green-blue wires daisy chaining this switch to #48...but in Maverick switch #48 is not used, so the daisy chain is not necessary.

Quoted from ahdelarge:

As a side note: the upper 5 bank drop target switches ALL register in switch test, the coil will not fire to reset the target bank and is not functional in coil test. Starting to narrow things down!

This sounds like a separate problem with the solenoid firing that is unrelated to the switch problem. Check to make sure any coil diode on it is not cracked or failed, check the coil resistance with a meter, then check then see if the coil gets power, find the trigger side of the coil and ground it with a test wire briefly to make sure the coil fires. If the coil is good, either broken wire, bad connector, or failed driving transistor is likely.

#599 3 years ago
Quoted from ahdelarge:

Thanks once again. It seems that I have wired the slingshots incorrectly. I am still a bit uncertain as there are 2 sets of leaf switches on each slingshot.
On the positive, the pop bumpers all check out ok.
A photo of the slingshot wiring on both left and right sides would be helpful as a cross reference before I go and desolder and resolder what I think is right. Could anyone please supply photos?

I believe this photo is representative, two switches wired in parallel so that either switch makes its fire. I can cget you pictures from my actual Maverick this evening. Just PM me with what specific items to take pictures of.

Data East Sega Stern Slingshot Assemblies - Lot of 2 - #500-5849-00 (1) (resized).JPG

#601 3 years ago
Quoted from ahdelarge:

Getting closer!
So, I have to do the following:
Get the wiring sorted on the slingshot switches. Would like an actual photo of your Maverick machine if possible as some strange things have been done to this one, so I'd like a direct comparison (if at all possible).
Will then need to test the coil and diode for the 5 bank drop target bank (upper left).
Finally, the left flipper works, but the switch isn't registering in switch test. SSFB transistor could be the cause or would this be a switch matrix issue again?

In switch test, momentarily short the switch drive for the flippers at the SSFB CN1 pin 4 (GRN-GRY) to switch return CN1 pin 5 (WHT-VIO). If it registers the switch then the problem is on the SSFB (could be output transistors, cold soldering or bad wire crimp on the CN1 connector. If it does not register, then a break in the daisy chained switch wiring is suspect. The flipper switch matrix signal for left flipper #63 is between switch #55 right ramp skill shot and the CPU, and all the other switches in the row work so it would not be a problem at the CPU connector but could be a break at switch #55.

As far as the slings go, pics below. The left is a bit easier to see than the right.

left (resized).jpg

right (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#605 3 years ago

Not like a grounding problem with the subwoofer, but a poor connection is a real possibility. How are you driving the sub, is it a self amplified subwoofer? Other speakers work good?

The test switches could also be a poor connection, although bad switches are common as well. These switches do not go through the switch matrix. The best bet is to jump at the motherboard connection to see if the processor will go in to test mode, then you can rule out if this is just a wiring/switch problem, or something else.

#608 3 years ago

Before you run out and ship that board, you'll want to verify if that is definitely a board or playfield problem by simulating the switch closure in question as described here:

Switch Matrix Row or Column Problems: the Easy Test.
If the game is giving an error message regarding a switch matrix row or column problem, determine if this is a CPU board problem or a playfield problem. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the switch matrix row and column plugs at CN10 and CN8. Enter the game's diagnostics (coin door green button down, press the black button), and go to the switch edge test. If the row or column problem is gone (no switch reports), the problem is in the playfield wiring. If the problem is still there, the problem is on the CPU board.

Switch Matrix Plug and Pin Numbers.
When doing intensive switch matrix diagnostics with the plugs removed at CN10 and CN8, simulate an actual playfield switch closure, without using the playfield! This can be done by using the internal switch edge test, and an alligator lead connected to the particular row/column (switch) in question, and a diode (as described above).

CN8 Switch Column (drive) Pin Numbers

Pin 1 = Column 1, green/brown
Pin 2 = Column 2, green/red
Pin 3 = Column 3, green/orange
Pin 4 = Column 4, green/yellow
Pin 5 = Column 5, green/black
Pin 6 = key
Pin 7 = Column 6, green/blue
Pin 8 = Column 7, green/violet
Pin 9 = Column 8, green/gray

CN10 Switch Row (return) Pin Numbers

Pin 1 = Row 8, white/gray
Pin 2 = Row 7, white/violet
Pin 3 = Row 6, white/blue
Pin 4 = key
Pin 5 = Row 5, white/green
Pin 6 = Row 4, white/yellow
Pin 7 = Row 3, white/orange
Pin 8 = Row 2, white/red
Pin 9 = Row 1, white/brown

#610 3 years ago

Pull the two connectors CN8 and CN10 and then use a jumper with a diode as described above to momentarily make contact between CN8 pin 1 to CN10 pin 7. This will simulate the playfield switch action. If this does not work, then you have a board problem. It is more likely to work, in that case you have a playfield problem. Have you checked the continuity action of the switch with a meter? it could be simply a bad switch. Contacts clean? Checked diode with a diode test? Check wires for continuity with a meter? (just because they look good, doesn't mean they are - the metal wire conductors can break within the insulating jacket)

1 week later
#615 3 years ago

Isn't pinball repair FUN? Lol. Good job.

2 weeks later
#621 3 years ago
Quoted from muzikman:

2) For the captive ball mode, how are you supposed to feed it to that upper flipper? My left orbit always goes to the boat - is that correct?

It's nearly impossible to hit the captive ball on the orbit shot unless the ball is crawling, I make it from the lower flippers but it is really difficult. Check your orbit deflector in coil test to make sure it is extending and retracting, check your orbit playfield switches too.

2 months later
#630 3 years ago
Quoted from Al:

OK, thanks! Makes sense why I rarely see it, I don't go for that skill shot.
I find the game a nice challenge. I have not made it to the wizard mode yet.

Wizard mode???

#633 3 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Presumably AL means the Poker Championship mode.

Yeah, sure is hard to get there. I've done it only a couple of times in several years. In fact, the last time I played it I got within ONE stinking poker hand of getting into the poker championship. I love the grandfather clock sound effect in that mode, and of course - getting your initials to display on the poker card backs for future games.

2 weeks later
#635 2 years ago

Pinball novice, eh? There's a simple starting point - open the coin door and instruct the owner how to get into switch test mode. I would think that if any balls were in there, the coil search should have released them, unless one jumped the wireform and got stuck in the Lauren Belle. Might want to have him do a coil test, verify that the paddlewheel motor turns within coil test.

#641 2 years ago

For the opto problem, it's really common to have the leads or the LEDs break off the board. Not terribly difficult to fix.. check out the service bulletin.

The wrong board is a different animal altogether. I would suggest getting the correct board.

#645 2 years ago
Quoted from stlmo:

Only played this once years ago but have wanted one since. I'm a little nervous because of all the troubleshooting and repair talk on this thread. I'm not great at that but have kept a Secret Service running for a couple of years. There is a Maverick for sale in my area but it has changed owners alot. What should I check out on a visit (more specific the better)? What is the going rate? Thanks.

Don't be too nervous. DEs are not vastly unusual. The optos are are fairly simple repair. I cannabalized an LED headlamp to fix mine. The biggest concern when buying is to make sure the DMD is clear and bright, as replacing that is a bit pricey. There should be players quality out there in the $1500-$1700 range. When you see one, buy it.

4 weeks later
#654 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:

New member! Great game!
Question: my lock wheel is making A LOT of noise while spinning. Normal?
What can I do?

The motor on this game is pretty noisy to begin with. The first question is "How much above normal is yours"? Can you take a video?

1 month later
#666 2 years ago
Quoted from stlmo:

Just bought a Maverick. Enjoying it so far. What are the best mods available?
Really like to add a light and smoke stacks to Laurel Bell. Anyone have any parts source and detail pics on install?

I did a few of those.

For the light inside the Lauren Belle, I put an LED lamp tapped of the GI - but just throwing a light in there looks like crap. I wanted the light to shine through the windows only. I used an Exacto knife to cut all the little windows out, spray painted the inside black, and glued clear plastic sheet from a sheet protector over all the windows. Super pain in the butt.

For the smoke stack, I used heat shrink tubing over a couple of screws through the Lauren Belle in the front smoke stack position. A little cutting at the the top to make them look like the classic smoke stack shape.

When I added LED spotlights, I didn't like the bright lamps shining in my face in the back left corner. They were distracting while playing, so I made a metal shade. I decorated the shade by gluing a playing card over the top of it.

I added graphics to the inside of the backbox using wall border with a gambling theme. It was vinyl self-stick I bought off EBay. Unfortunately, repeated playfield lifting tore it up - so I eventually removed it. If I ever did it again, I'd have to find a way to prevent damage, perhaps clearcoating it. I just haven't tried anything else because my playfield is so tight it scrapes against the sides.

The last mod I did was to find a 5 socket #44 lamp holder in a scrap bin at a show, and mounted that up behind the playing card topper. It is lit by five blinking LEDs attached to the GI, so that the individual cards light up in a random blinking pattern.

a0b6f2b2d722e7a764d8e46075f32d1eb18936e9 (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#672 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballbrat:

I just got mine Friday!!! I've been pinless since 2014, had some hardships.. Saturday night, I told my girlfriend, I'm gonna go play some Pinball.. Man that felt great to say..

Congrats! You picked a great game, too. What's up with that white DMD? Not that's it's bad or anything....just, unusual. You could use my spotlight mod, too. I'm getting blinded already.

f96f50b69dd18fb65db7e8a9364c6446b78d9e16 (resized).jpg
167e878fe4b693d5bdd4e889cc26862759310950 (resized).jpg

#675 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballbrat:

What's up with that white DMD? Not that's it's bad or anything....just, unusual. You could use my spotlight mod, too. I'm getting blinded already..
It is a color dmd.. It does not photograph very well.. How did you do the spotlight. Is it a peice of sheet metal and a card attached?

Yes, it's a piece of sheet metal, bent and drilled to use the existing screw on the playfied wall. A playing card glued with epoxy over the top. Works great and looks great, IMO

#680 2 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

thanks all for your replies.
I managed to have both opto working during test and during play.

Both?....there's three opto switches so make sure to test them all thoroughly. Two under the Lauren Belle and one at the paddlewheel entrance. Actually, not just those but other switches intermittently faulty can cause this type of misbehavior. I had some problems with switches in the shooter lane skillshot area until I replaced them. Theres no reason the game cannot be rock solid with optos, but some choose the mechanical switch as as a workaround.

#684 2 years ago

When you reflow the opto connections, replace the transmitter LED with the brightest red visible LED you can find. I cannabalized a camping headlamp for mine. The optos have worked flawlessly ever since.

1 week later
#687 2 years ago
Quoted from Damagio:

Hi everyone, just picked up my second pin on Sunday....Maverick!

Congrats on Mav. You will enjoy this game thoroughly once up to snuff.

#690 2 years ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

Just do this! It plugs right into the opto connector. I did this to mine when I owned it. Mounted mine to a piece of clear Lexan and then mounted that to a bolt near the entrance. Took some tweaking to get it right, but it was perfect once I got it into place. Fun game.

To each his own, but I disagree. No need to hack a different switch...the optos will work perfectly when simply fixed correctly - no "tweaking" necessary.

#694 2 years ago
Quoted from Damagio:

ball stuck in VUK and it will not eject or go into find mode...it puts another ball in play making me think I have a bad trough switch.
Any suggestions?

Thoroughly test VUK ball switch while in switch test, using the ball and not your finger. Put the ball in the VUK kickout about 20 times, if if fails even just once - I'd replace the switch. Check all the trough, shooter lane and skillshot switches the same way.

1 month later
#704 2 years ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

I have side art on all 14 of my games. Two have mirror blades and 12 have vinyl side art. Maverick & White Water are the tightest. The mirror blade people suggested removing the blades (3 screws each side) any time extensive work is planned with lots of ups and downs of the playfield. For the vinyl art it is suggested to use poster board between the art and the playfield sides when raising or lowering the playfield.

My Mav is so tight on the sides it scrapes the paint. Vinyl side art ripped so I removed that. I can't see putting a poster board, blade, or anything of thickness in it without major modification.

1 week later
#710 2 years ago
Quoted from Murphelman:

joining the club today.

Welcome! I am wondering what's going on up here on your pic?

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#712 2 years ago
Quoted from Murphelman:

The previous owner decided to Velcro a paper picture from world series of poker there. he also glued a bunch of other things all over.

I have the apron and flippers they just aren't installed. I have to redo the entire trough. have to replace a drop target bank. there is nothing there. Have to install a bunch of coils and figure out how to install this.
I might get annoying to you guys for pictures and such so my apologies in advance.

Diagram for that. Can get you pics later if need be.

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#714 2 years ago
Quoted from Murphelman:

Thanks! pictures would be great. I can see anywhere inside the cabinet to connect the wires to. there are a few things I have questions about but I will tackle them on at a time. thanks again.

These will travel in a harness all the way back to the main board.

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#717 2 years ago
Quoted from Murphelman:

Thanks that helps. I think i may need the whole wiring harness for that because I see nothing in the cabinet that will connect to it.

is there a jack even plugged in at CN14 on the mainboard? if there is, then you can probably trace it back through the harness. If nothing is there, you don't need the whole harness. Make a 4 wire harness for CN14 and run it from the board to the coin door in parallel with the existing harness.

#719 2 years ago
Quoted from Murphelman:

looks like they were switched with CN13.

Can't find where they all went into the cabinet but the black/red, and white wires are connected to this but cant find green or blue....

That is correct, they should be reversed. The connector with the 4 black wires are the coil grounds. Put that one on CN13. For the other, you have two options. You can follow it into the harness and cut all the tie wraps as you go to find the wiring, which is really the correct way and a pain in the butt. Or you can just cut back the wires, make a new connector with a sufficient length of new wires and run that all the way to the coin door.

Your bottom photo left switch with the black/yellow and white/red stripes is the solenoid interlock switch to cut solenoid power when the coin door is open, switch on the right with the black/red and white wires is the memory lock switch.

#721 2 years ago
Quoted from Murphelman:

and a Goldeneye

Jealous of that ^

Don't fear putting some money into Maverick at that starting price. Helluva good game.

#723 2 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

Looking for some help. Moved the game a few months ago, and now the two optos under the boat will not work. The right side of the optos are red, the left side has no light. Is that how these optos should look?
Kind of odd that both go out at the same time.

Yes, that is how they should look. The optos use visible red light on the transmitter side, the receiver side does not illuminate. If the red transmitter light pair under the opto is "going out" then you have a break in a wire feeding both of the transmitters. If I am missing some details please fill me in, that's how I am reading your post.

2 weeks later
#729 2 years ago

Well, Damagio....they are usually not that bad. If yours didn't have those previous repairs which contributed to your difficulties. My Maverick gets played almost daily. Rock solid with the optos....it's worth putting in proper repairs.

4 months later
#761 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

It’s there. Just somehow out of view?

The camera angle is high. I can just make out the bottom edge of the captive ball in the photo. Here's another game from a lower camera angle.

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#765 2 years ago
Quoted from Damagio:

curious....the thought just came to my mind if the upgrade to v4 would addess the slower paddle wheel issue...my last effort to speed mine up will be replacing the pulley on the motor with a larger one. I think Mac might have done this...

Software won't do it. The interface between the motor and CPU is an on/off switch.

1 week later
#769 2 years ago
Quoted from Damagio:

4) In process of installing Wayout's playing card spotlight mod. I found some pretty cool cards that look sort of "antique-like"....okay editing because it’s done!
Hope you're all doing well!

Hey Damagio, I took your idea...it looked much better than my original setup. I printed a vintage card on glossy photo stock for a new look...

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#776 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Are the bulbs for the red blank poker chip inserts missing intentionally? Is there any reason not to add lights to them?

There are no lamps under the red blank poker chips and there is no reason to add them, though you can do whatever you want.

#783 2 years ago
Quoted from Stimpy:

About to get my first Maverick and I would love to light up the topper. I am new to this after buying the topper ( ebay has reprod) would you be able to decript your post to a newbie?

This is an easy mod to add to your card topper. I found a 10 socket #44 bulb strip in a parts bin and the spacing was perfect using every other socket, but you could also DIY with individual sockets to get an individual bulb behind each card of the topper plastic.
The sockets are simply wired in parallel,and tapped of the backboard GI (pics below). For an added dramatic effect, I used blinker LEDs bulbs to randomly light different cards. A video link below

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#787 2 years ago
Quoted from DiegoWally:

Also, good to see your back box top has a good layer of dust too...

Meh. I've cleaned it up there once or twice. It's an unfinished basement so I get dust.

#794 2 years ago
Quoted from DiegoWally:

Think that could mean a new motor. Marco has em.
Flipper fixed and back at it. Now, I’ve got an issue (occasionally) with the weight of the ball slowing the wheel up on the way up, once over the top speed is fine. Have a couple of new belts...Will a belt fix the issue? Hopefully, it’s not new motor time.
Digging the card hiding the glare of the spotlights up top idea. I did that and also placed a couple of Jack Daniel cards on top of the boring empty ramp area. Thinking a toy Cowboy squaring off with an Indian or something could be placed up there, something, anything it’s just barren and doesn’t affect pinball play by covering it up.

Most likely. A new belt fixed both my old Cyclone and my new Fish Tales reel. New belts with proper tension are important. Make sure to clean the pulley grooves thoroughly with iso alcohol.

Glad you like the card mod, but I'm thinking leave the toys out...overkill. Just my opinion.

3 months later
#806 1 year ago

What's with the crazy blue light in the outhole?

#810 1 year ago
Quoted from Damagio:

I can't believe the paddle motor is bad because it slows down over time....classic cap/PS issue.

The motor runs on AC..so it's not caps. It is most likely the motor itself. But you should at least check the 28 VAC of the transformer secdondary that is the supply to the motor. The fact that you have other problems is suspicious. Your PS could be drawing heavy on the transformer as it heats up, reducing power delivery to the motor.

#812 1 year ago
Quoted from Damagio:

That's right, wayout, thank you. I always forget the motors are AC. I've thought it was the motor for a long time now, but the fact that when I turn the machine on, the rotation of the motor is close to what it should be and then degrades over time. Yesterday it degraded to the point where it barely turned, so that makes me suspicious about the PS. At the very least' it is worth a thorough check, right?

Yes, if the only problem was your motor, I'd focus on that. Your funky moment of the display out sends red flags. Those big displays can tax the rest of the system when they are failing. Hopefully, it's a PS problem and not the display. Make sure to do the service bulletin wiring mod for the DMD while you are testing the PS.

3 weeks later
#824 1 year ago
Quoted from Damagio:OK...

1) +4.95v at the Display Controller Board.

From the DE repair guides:

The dot matrix display controller board (#520-5092-1) has its own 68000 micro processor, which runs at 12 mHz. It operates best with logic +5 volts right at 5.0 volts! Any drop in voltage (to even 4.9 volts) can cause the display CPU to shut down or reset. As these games get older, the connectors fatique, and small amounts of resistance appear. Or the grounding strap going to the display board can become loose. These problems can cause the +5 volts fed to the display to drop enough to cause problems.

If the Super Size DMD Still Doesn't Work...
Additionally, the +5/+12 volt bridge rectifier (DB1) on the power supply board may need to be replaced. If this bridge becomes "leaky" (less efficient), it may not be able to supply the robust +5 volts needed on the display board. So if the above modification does not work, replace bridge DB1 next. When replacing DB1 on the power supply board, also solder an 18 guage wire from the "+" lead of bridge DB1 to the "+" lead of capacitor C4. Solder another 18 gauge wire from the "-" lead of the bridge DB1 (the lead diagonal to the bridge's "+" lead) to the "-" lead of capacitor C1. Do this on the solder side of the power supply board. These added wires will help prevent future cracked solder joints on the power supply board.

#826 1 year ago
Quoted from Damagio:

Thanks Wayout!!...this is where I am getting my repair info from as well. It's an outstanding source.
I am not sure if the .5v drop from pin on the PS to connector on the Display Control is just because of the probes on the multimeter or if it's just losing power along the line....if so, certainly indicative of weakness in the PS. I think I'll try to test it under load and see what I get.
Regardless, the PS repairs above are my next step. I'm going to pull it an order all new parts and rebuild it with the 18 gauge wire mod. I have an awesome Hakko desoldering gun, which is seriously one of the best tools I have ever bought. If that doesn't fix the DMD issue, at least I'll have piece of mind knowing my PS is good and we'll move on from there.
My really big concern is that it went from blinking to dead as soon as I unplugged everything to test the voltages and then plugged it back in.
Do you guys know of any Multimeter Leads that fit well over pins? Ideally something insulated that will push over a pin and clamp down. I see some on Amazon, but it looks like they are hooks and it's hard to tell how big they are.

I dont think your meter is the problem, although you can at least check your meter leads with another meter if they are suspect. I think it is a good plan to at least tackle the PS first, making sure it is reliable. You can probably sub a computer supply +5VDC if you have the patience to set it up properly.

For meter leads, I mostly use the small hook probes, you can clamp on just about anything with them. You can pull a connector up just a little and get the hook probes on the pins with the connector still attached in most cases, allowing to measure pins with a true load on them. If you really want to put a solid connection over a pin, all you really need is a spare inline molex female of the proper gauge for the pins you are desiring to test, and just cut off a single pin. Then you can just slide that over the pin and attach to whatever wire you have attached to it, sometimes with an alligator clip.

3 months later
#829 1 year ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Hello maverick lovers!!
I have a lovely maverick. unfortunately the display isn't working... I bought it without a display, I've bought a new display from pinballSP. But when I turn it on it turns white and does nothing.. Now I'm sure the display is working I'm looking for a solution. I've replaced the bridge rectifiers, replaced the Eproms, the 5V cables, also the capacitors on the power supply and the 68000 processor. I've ordered a new crystal and RAMs. I'm waiting for them now to replace. Is their someone who could help?
Kind regards,
Dwight Heinink
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White? Display is normally orange...so I thought. Looking at your pics, there seems to have been some work on the sockets and a horizontal line that looks like either a scratch or a wire, can't quite tell magnifying the pic. How are you certain this replacement display worked, and is the correct display for the game? There is a different display driver for the Cherry manufacturer displays and the Babcock manufacturer displays.

#831 1 year ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Could their maybe be a problem with the display driver?

Sounds like it. I thought the RGB would require its own driver board anyway. I admit I don't know much about it, but if you've tested it with another display it sure looks like the driver board is the culprit.

#833 1 year ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Okay. So if the display driver died, Wich part would die first most likely?

Well, probably not easy to specify. The board is basically a logic system under the hood, and the first rule of thumb is to check A) power, and B)clock in a CPU system.

Check DC voltage right at the VCC pins of the IC's.
Get a frequency counter or scope on the crystal oscillator to see if that is running.
Then, check activity on the address bus and data bus.

That's where I would start.

#836 1 year ago
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm no expert on H channel - so here's some "any help"

I measured my Maverick and the channel measures about 26 1/2' long. As the photo shows the front is a shade higher than 1" the back is even higher, almost 2". width is about 1/2".

IMO - and it's just that, so disclaimer that if this does not work I claim no responsibility. I personally do not see any 2" high H channel for sale anywhere, just 1". But if it were me I would try the 1" and it should work. It's a lot cheaper gamble than breaking the glass and replacing it, and a lot less messy. That's the best I can suggest.

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1 month later
#842 1 year ago

I use a pair of old vcr c clamp pliers, very similar to motor spring pliers. The right tool will make this job much easier.

#845 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Is there someone that still sells the topper for the Maverick? Can you replace the riverboat still? Thanks for the help.

There one topper left on eBay, be quick!
ebay.com link

1 week later
#859 1 year ago
Quoted from jitneystand1:

I believe the wheel runs continuously on all Mavericks (at least on the two I've owned), it isn't activated by a switch

I did lube the gear wheels prior to posting, it had no discernible effect on the noise level or how quickly it quieted down.

Correct. When a game is started the paddlewheel runs. It is not operated by a switch.
The paddlewheel is somewhat noisy. A worn out one will be significantly more noisy, but even a brand new one will make some noise..
The optos, if broken and then repaired properly will run great for a long time. They have no moving parts. The trouble spots are vibration and wiring. 9 of 10 opto transmitter and receiver pair problems can be solved by reflowing solder joints and potting the units in some hot melt glue for long term durability against vibration.

#862 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

The entrance opto I've gotten to work, but I'm skeptical it will last.

What exactly is wrong with it that you think it won't last? The transmitter is just a resistor an LED, and the receiver side is basically a couple of transistors, a pair of resistors, and an LED. There's not a whole lot to go wrong here and usually the failures are broken wires or solder joints.

#870 1 year ago
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:

The reed switch I ordered to replace the entrance opto finally came, but I’m having some issues. I disconnected the transmitter opto and replaced the receiver connection with the reed switch. This should be all I need correct? I’m getting the bad opto error when the machine boots up and the reed switch seemingly does nothing. Thoughts or helpful would be appreciated.

Correct switch matrix wires hooked up? (Green-Violet stripe and White - Grey stripe). If still not working, short these two wires briefly with a jumper in switch test.
Normally open switch style?....if the switch you have is normally closed closed style that could be a problem. A lot of folks had problems attempting modifying the entrance to reed switches in this location and end up reverting back to optos.

#878 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Tonight I made the stadium light kit for Maverick. It's actually a well lit game, I think, but all games look nicer with some clean lighting.

More light for Maverick? I have warm white LEDs in mine, stock. It's probably the brightest game in my collection. I guess it matters as to what else is near it, if you have brighter games and I have dimmer games nearby, that probably has something to do with it.

1 month later
#898 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Joined the club x2 with another Maverick back to the states after enjoying the sights of Sweden. Check out the cool coin door and stamp. Is the curved area a paper currency slot?
Turns out to be a very clean game, clean boards, all switches/optos working. So just needs a tear down cleaning, new rubber, new target decals and LEDs.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow, nice find! Yes, it seems that the slot is for a bill acceptor. The word below is Danish for banknote, with a sample above the slot.

#902 1 year ago
Quoted from NickyVanHalen:

Hoping Maverick fans can help me.Put new optos in Maverick when ball 1 is supposed to lock it shows ball locked on dmd but it drops the ball. In test mode the switches (double?) hit. Any help is appreciated

Hmmm.. Not understanding the double hit. Thoroughly test the switches in test mode, using a ball to verify state. What it sounds like is happening: The lock solenoid pin is dropping because the games switches are not registering accurately. The program doesn't sense that there is an available ball to play, so it "thinks" it needs to return locked balls to play. Check all the switches, but especially the lock optos, trough and all the shooter lane switches. A single borderline switch can cause inconsistent play.

1 month later
#917 10 months ago

This service bulletin can be considered the "bible" of Maverick optos, so grab a copy:

#922 10 months ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

I will add that reflowiing sometimes just isn't enough. If it is the entrance to the paddle wheel I would just order new optos for $30 and be done. It is a bitch to get to those optos.

It depends on what is wrong, and which opto - transmitter or reciever. When I first got my game, the entrance transmitter opto was out. It was the visible light LED that had failed internally. I just took one out of what I had around, which was a miners type headlamp that had a broken strap. It's been running for years flawlessly.

1 month later
#932 9 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Sweet! Thank you! Just curious what is the point of the updates. Like in general on any of these pinball machines, like why update? do they really change the game all that much?
Oh and my game also came with this little board, anybody know what it is?[quoted image]

That is an opto receiver board. You can tell right away because the receiver board has the two black transistors on it. If that is a new board it is a worthwhile part to hang on to. It is one half of a switch pair, you have 3 of them in the game.

Updates in general for pinball: Sometimes they change subtle items, perhaps a scoring value or some rule in gameplay that you might not easily notice. Then sometimes they change things that are quite significant, such as bug fixes that track the balls and might cause a severe error such as locking the ball in kickout hole etc...

#934 9 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Oh sweet. Ya I think it's new, but hard to say. I'll definitely hold onto it. You said 3 of them where in the game. Are they all in the laurelle bell? Is it possible one of them is in the vuk that I'm having problems with?
I talked to the room chip guy and he said they are actually up to 4.04, so I'm pretty far behind. So I'm going to update to that version from 4.01 and cross my fingers that that'll fix my issue. I'm assuming it's not that, but I can definitely try it especially because I'd want to update anyways.

I have system version 4.01 and have no problems. There are 2 opto switch pairs in the Lauren Belle and one outside it, at the entrance to the paddlewheel.

#938 9 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

so i turned on my pin and it did says 4.01 for something, but then it said 4.04 for the cpu so I am up to date. I also ran through all the tests and diagnostics and there was nothing there to help my hold em fold em issue. I did discover hat when I push the flippers for the switch tests I get nothing as well. and when I try to put in a custom message where you can use the flippers to change the letter I also get nothing there. so basically my flippers go up and down for pinball use but thats it. Do we have any new ideas based on that additional info?

You have the same software revisions I do,. As far as I know - there wasn't any other revision for this game.
What did you troubleshoot on the flipper board? We already know that your CPU isn't receiving flipper status, now we need to troubleshoot why.