I've got both and they're both great games I rekon, could not choose between them. So either way wife goes you have a winner!

Happy wife happy life

Win - Win

It runs the entire time the machine is in game mode. ie not in attract mode.

+1

Probably quicker to have it remade. New vacuum form.

I've had my ear to the ground for years and never seen one. My boat is there, but pretty beat up.

Helps to align bats (evenly), afik.

Take good advantage from the hole!

*all of them

... and the hole lets you choose how you play your hands

The hole, from Every Inlane Feed "steals" a card for your hand (bank). Take All of that.

The hole gives you one chance to Raise or Fold each hand. Folding doesn't reset your winning streak. For me left and right banks are fold, everything else is raise. Double or nothing for chips.

Hole ... lol . . Shoot the VUK!

I suspect this might be the Display CPU resetting, which plays that sound effect on bootup. ? (the game does not usually reset when this happens, just the display driver board, same sound as turning game on though).

If it is then most likely suspect 5v power to the driver board mounted to the back of the display. There is a harness upgrade kit for this issue as well.

As I said in a post above, that sound effect is made other times than just when the boat opto closes. It is the sound effect triggered when the DISPLAY cpu boots (resets), and talks to the Game Cpu.

Generally the Display Cpu resets due to bad 5vdc going to the display driver board (display panel).

This does not make the game reset, the display just blanks, reboots (with boat SFX as it connects with the game), and shows Display rom version for a moment, then continues working basically straight away... displaying pages that are called by the still running Game processor.

The display processor in these games is more full on than the game cpu. It requires clean stable 5v just like the game cpu. It has its own watchdog cicuit too.

CN5 on the Power Supply Board feeds 5vdc for Logic to J1 on the Display Driver board (mounted to back of display). If any of these connections are flaky you will get Display Resets, and the Boat SFX along with them. Regardless of attract mode or in gameplay.

Yes. But only with an underlying issue, such as a 'borderline' flaky connector contact (on the display power connectors).

Your sound system draws more juice the more sound is amplified (volume). If your display connection(s) are less than perfect they will be causing a voltage drop across the connection, but maybe not enough to reset the display.

When you turn the volume up, this (display) voltage drop is applied to a lesser Supply Level .... thus becoming "the straw that broke the camels back".

Low volume, no display resets. Elevated volume, display periodically resets.

My game had this exact issue when I aquired it. In my case it was not sound that was the problem, but the display connectors. Repinning display connector stopped the sound creating display resets.

Hopefully I have described clearly enough.

Sounds of that I would check the (2) ribon cables between the main MPU board and the display panel. The wider ribon from MPU to the display board on the Speaker panel. Or the narrow shorter ribon between the display driver board and the display (display driver board is on speaker panel). Reseat them one at a time (test in between helps to identify fault location), probably go for the shorter narrow one first.

Another possibility is bad pin connections in sockets of ROM chips, but cables are a much easier check.

Messing with/reseating the display power connectors would Prevent the volume reset issue from continuing temporarily, if my hypothesis/experiences were correct. If the boat noise is from a display reset then it is power to the Display system that is suffering. Increased volume simply creates more load (and increased voltage drop) which causes the display bad power supply to present display symptoms (rebooting/SFX).

I had this very symptom with my game when I first got it. After repairing the display power, game could be turned up to speaker/eardrum blowing levels without any display resets/interuptions. My sound system in fact had no problems at all, turned out.

Ooooh yuk!

That looks more like a fault in the shift registers (or like) on the display panel itself, maybe....

Someone else may be able to chime in with more knowledge about this.

If it was my game I might be looking to beg/borrow/steal an alternative panel somehow, to test/eliminate possibilities.

If it is display..... great excuse for colorDMD ?

....

Have you noticed particular behaviour in the display tests?

On the plasma panel. Not easy to change on these....

New plasma +$600, if you can source one.

Or colorDMD under $500 .... It will work great as standard replacment, also colour Maverick roms will certainly be just around the corner.

Or someone -may- be able to patch up your display, but with the glass stuck to one side of the board that is a huge challenge. Given it is so intermittent I would guess it is a bad solder pad rather than a chip "gone". But the solder side is double sided taped against the glass.

I'm still not 100% sure... hopefully some others can confirm, or have more guidance.

You'll at least have to determine which brand of panel your game has, they're all different: Cherry, Dale, Vishay, Babcock.

**IF per chance you do get to borrow (or buy) a display to test/replace, and it is a Different Brand.... CHECK THOROUGHLY the power connections for the panel!!. Some make their own 5v from 12v, others have it supplied from the game. Pinouts VARY! .... IF YOU FEED 12V INTO A PANEL PIN THAT NEEDS 5V then YOUR DISPLAY WILL GET FRIED! . Power connectors in most cases need to have pins relocated for different brand displays. This is the large molex going Direct to the display panel.

Afaik these are the latch chips on a Dale panel. The final major component before connecting to the plasma glass...

DALE LATCH (resized).jpg

Also NOTE "P3" on each manufacturers scat, they vary quite a bit, although the connector is the same. Word of warning for the uninitiated. 12v feeding 5v circuit =

Ask me how I know ....

That's the ballpark for Brand New... used should be half that I'd rekon.

If it's good and working maybe Evilive69 would want to buy it from you?

The symptoms, the way that is tearing, matches those of one of my cactus displays. I would bet on your video board being fine. The latch chips on the display panel I think will prove to be the culprit, they certainly can fail or be overloaded after some outgassing. Picture speaks a thousand words, they say. Your video clip made it pretty certain for me.

I put the DrPinball DMD extender in mine with an LCD and a Pi. It's great with the colours altered, you have correct black and red cards!. Also, I'd say it will not be too far away before ColorDMD complete the ROM for the fourth and final title which is Maverick.

If anyone is considering DrPinball dmdextender, I had no problems with it.... I found it easy to set up with some basic hand skills (mounting plate/board needed to be crafted). Also intuitive enough to set up and alter basic global pallet colours.

I have all four titles and have tried all display options I could find, including replacing with new from Vishay.

Baywatch currently has a beautiful ColorDMD XL... Spectacular! ... and all I can say is, that stands as my only choice for future replacements.

I got a PIN2DMDxL kit from PIN2DMD, before the DrPinball kit. My PIN2DMD I found troublesome with the settings, getting things to work as one would hope, software complexity. After organising the hardware licensing payment key thing, it ...works. Shortly after getting it working, three LED in the middle of the panel lost their red spectrum. Replies to emails took a long time. It just ended up in Frankenstein, using a blue pallet. I will replace it with a ColorDMD.

Batman has a brand new Plasma display from Vishay. Purchased 2yr ago cost me just under US$600, at the time I was told "made to order only" and waited a couple of months. Crisp and bright. Good for another 20 years ... worth it? ..... who knows.

I like that dmdExtender can "extend" or split video outputs, to put on your projector, or whatever. But for me the colorDMD is the winner for Value. Even without colour roms available, it is still plug and play as orange, or whatever other RGB colour you would like. Key thing to finish off, it has proven Reliable!

**Also for colorDMD, when their dev community complete Maverick, which they inevitably will.... download rom file, takes 2 minutes plugging in a USB drive, and your replacement generic (monochrome) LED display.... instantly becomes full glorious colour!

Can you take your Video Driver to test in your friends Frankenstein?

If your video driver is causing the issue, then it will present in the other game, regardless of panel type.

Maverick was actually ready for/in production as Data East Pinball was up for sale. Not much besides ROM code could viably be altered/updated, which SEGA did as they sold production games. This is why Maverick was deliberately left free of the DE brand for the most part (in difficult/costly to alter places), flexibility.

What he said! ^ Lol

The larger Red pairs of Power wires to the pop coils, connects to the Banded Side of each diode. That is, the silver banded end.

The Non-banded (black) end, goes to the single individually couloured thinner wires, of each coil (blue wires with different colour bands).

Hope this helps?

I'm going to punt that a shorted lamp diode has been missed on that light board, or on the "21" lamp which is on the same column.... could be other lamp diodes causing it than just the Lock 2 and PC inserts.

Here is a video on Matrix and Diodes that helped me alot to understand these wierd problems. It is a Switch Matrix video but the principle is the same just one is an input the other is an output. Among the most useful 10 minutes of you tube I have ever watched! Lol

Go to lamp tests, get yourself a photocopy or a snapshot of the matrix to doodle on and mark down all wierd associations in Single Lamp Test (when there should only ever be one CPU lamp lit at any one time). The map you create will tell you some story and where to look and test. Draw an all encompasing loop/circle around lamps that are lit together. Colour code for different lamp tests if it helps. You should find some indicators in the odd behaviour.

Hope this helps.

**Also maybe give this a go: http://pinballmatrix.com/

Also note that to expose some lamp matrix issues you may well need to use the "Rows Test" and "Columns Test", so that you can lite all lamps simultaneously in a given column or row. Unfortunately the game won't let you light full columns an rows together, but row and column tests is better information than only single lamps.

I have. They work. Had to alter jumpers by cutting soldered jumpers for Simpsons. Was a year or two ago, they might have improved that who knows.

Their SEGA/DE Flipper Boards are puss though, fyi, by the way.

This is how mine is and has been since I got the game. The rubber, on the bottom post only, is a slim post rubber. Scoring the captive ball is not too hard at all.

Same for me. Before I put it back together though I waited and ordered the slimmer SuperBand polyurethane post sleeves and used those. The SLIM ones, 11mm outer diameter. Rather than the silicone type which I have found to be flimsy and tear/nick easily.

My original was like some others, hard, brittle, and cracked when I tried to remove it.

I still think it seems like a dodgy diode in there somewhere.

Have you been into lamp test and checked every column and row is doing what it should??

ie. Column Test and Row Test. Each should only light lamps in that given column or row.

Ok. Running out of possible causes. We have to work out what can cause the condition. It is a bit perplexing. We are missing something in the isolation testing.

There must be some part in common or not change tested yet... ?

So it sounds like a code bug from manufacturer, within the ROM, simply nobody has discovered it before. ?

If you choose White, Red, Brown, Black for the colour pallet you get red and black cards .... it looks pretty good!

Oh Phweeew!! ... what a relief to know it isnt just mine that sounds like a combine harvester! Lol

I don't recall exactly how they are aranged, but for two bulbs to be connected to 32v and receive a divided voltage of 16v each they would absolutely need to be connected in Series, not parallel. Just saying for reference.

Also as a sub note; Being connected in series would also mean that if one of the bulbs blows, continuity would be lost for it's pair bulb. By that I mean, the other bulb would not light because it no longer has power supplied/connected because of the other bulbs blown filament no longer being a conductor for the second bulb (not out because it became blown as well).

Having said that, two series bulbs could blow together if the series circuit is supplied with Too Much voltage overall. Dividing an excessive voltage.

All good. Just trying to help with understanding in some way.

The "next game" was MS Frankenstein... which was a concept/prototype only when SEGA was about to buy Data East. My guess is DE just left it out pending a sale and unknowns, just like how there's so very few DE references on Maverick. Although SEGA sill could and did feasibly add their trade mark Sonic the Hedgehog to the Video ROMs as they completed the production and sale of Maverick.

I'd also speculate that the sonic animations directly took the place of the Data East animations.

The extra trough position. This era DE/SEGA has a seperate position for upkick into shooter lane. In attract mode the position is vacant. At game start the 4 ball lockout activates and drops first trough ball to shooter lane upkicker, then it is kicked to shooter lane. Every ball trough eject to the shooter lane is a Two Step process.

This allows playfield to be raised vertical without balls falling out. The coil is hiding under the apron.

You don't need to remove the balls to raise the playfield on these games. Didn't last long before Bom costs of extra coil and opto saw it deleted.

Settings, maybe Special is set to award points.

A transistor in the lamp matrix "columns" (on the main CPU board) may be shorted giving continuous 18v supply to a column, rather than strobing it to average 6v. This will melt LEDs and cause blown bulbs. Been there lol.

The bright lights will correspond with a column on your lamp matrix chart, to identify the offending Q Transistor.

Looks about right...

Does anyone here have the widebody prototype?

Just a stab in the dark, but try watching this. You need to account for any closed switches including the "always closed" reference switch. These can also be trough switches with balls there.

First, sw15 is the ball trough on that chart, not the VUK?

I'm confused about what tests and results you have going on.

Also I don't have a switch like that in my ball trough, nor VUK.

My game does have microswitches in 3 places where optos once were (2 in paddleboat locks, and one at paddlewheel entry). I can't recall exactly how they were wired up, it is how the game was set up when I acquired it.

Ahhh yes sorry, I was confused by "VUK" which I usually associate with the top of the playfield. That 15 is an opto if I recall right? . Normally I have referred to it as "Shooter eject or kicker" ... There is a ball serve coil, to keep trough balls out of the ball serve (sw15). So, either 13 or 14 completes a square there with either of the boat lock optos or switches. Has the problem arisen after new wiring work? ... maybe the opto switch wiring is not quite right?

Also, that marco link Does look like the correct switch for 15. I'm sorry I was getting confused with Baywatch and Batman which have opto there.

I have never had to work on this shooter eject section in my Maverick, but yep it's the one.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5118-00

My examples not much use for this, my boat has two microswitches in there.

TX/RX the right way around? ... connectors?

All good just a clutching at straws thing to crosscheck in manual. I'm not much use here I guess really, having microswitches in there.

Probably a burned GI connector for that string, where it connects to the MPU/Driver board.

Yep I have one in my Baywatch it is f'ing Awesome! ... recurring problem x3 since I have every jumbo DMD game.

But, my Mav has DMD extender with an LCD which is great and gives black and red cards ... so first are Batman Forever and then Frankenstein! ..... but some saving to do before that Lol