(Topic ID: 79446)

Maverick fan thread - We play till we drop, winner takes all!


By Atomicboy

6 years ago



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  • 1,210 posts
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  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by razorsedge
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#453 4 years ago

Just joined the club tonight. Anyone have a decent used right ramp assembly for sale? I can buy new, but figured I'd look used first.

Thanks.

#463 4 years ago

Performing a cursory review of Maverick pinball with the playfield glass on to take stock of what I'll need to do when I get to this project.

Fairly certain that's mummified remains of a mouse in the vertical up kicker.

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2 months later
#494 4 years ago

Does anyone sell the skill shot decals for the ramp? The black 1,2,3 #s for the holes?

Bought a new ramp and will need to buy or make those decals.

2 months later
#508 3 years ago

Check the switch the ball triggers when sitting in the hole. Probably just need to slightly adjust it so the ball triggers the switch when it's in there. Worst case, the switch itself can be going bad and you just replace it.

#510 3 years ago

I have this pin and I recently shopped it, but still have to put some of the top playfield back together. I can take any pics you might need, so just let me know, it's sitting in my workshop right now.

I guess check that the wires are still attached to the switch - you'll have to lift the playfield and visually check it with a light to see back in that spot.

#511 3 years ago

I went to take pics a little bit ago and my phone was down to 1%. Will get you some pics to compare with though.

#513 3 years ago

I think it could be just a bad switch, unless you can constantly trigger it by hand and bend the wire to make sure it's fully pressing the switch down.

But the last three pins I've owned; Dracula, Terminator 2, Sharkey's Shootout - all had a bad switch, which was a frequently used switch, juts like the VUK in Maverick. They go bad after a lifetime of hits and replacing is the best remedy.

#514 3 years ago

Oh, and my Bram Stoker's Dracula had a bad switch on the right inlane, which is fed by the ramp, so very often hit. I could remove the glass and trigger the switch with my finger and it would work for a game or two and then would just stop working.

#519 3 years ago
Quoted from septicman:

Also, if you do have a chance, could you advise me on whether I need to remove the entire innards to do the replacement? Cheers!

You'll want to unplug the connector to the VUK. Then you'll unscrew the VUK and remove it from the playfield so have nice, easy access for replacing the switch. You'll drive yourself crazy otherwise.

2 years later
-1
#854 1 year ago

I just got a Maverick and needed to fix all 3 optos. The top opto in the Belle only needed an adjustment. Bottom opto has a bad resistor that I'm replacing. The entrance opto I've gotten to work, but I'm skeptical it will last. So I'm replacing it with a physical switch on the gate like the photo above. Done and done with that switch then.

#857 1 year ago

I lubed the motor gears with white lithium grease spray and it really quieted down the motor. That damn motor was SO loud before....seemed like a shaker motor was always running with how loud it was. After greasing the gears it's a new motor and much more pleasant game.

#861 1 year ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Dude just replace the entrance opto boards with the re-pro's. Don't butcher the poor game.

Why when I don't have to? Don't need to spend money or wait for a part to arrive. Replacing a switch with another type of switch is hardly butchering a game. No holes are being drilled, nothing being cut and it's completely reversible down the line if a future owner wants to replace the opto for some reason. Really no need for an opto there anyway from the factory since a physical switch on the gate does the job reliably.

#863 1 year ago
Quoted from wayout440:

What exactly is wrong with it that you think it won't last? The transmitter is just a resistor an LED, and the receiver side is basically a couple of transistors, a pair of resistors, and an LED. There's not a whole lot to go wrong here and usually the failures are broken wires or solder joints.

It just still seemed flaky after I re-flowed the solder. I mean it works, but it gave a phantom hit a few times when testing, then hasn't since. But I tore the playfield down to shop it and I don't want to do it again over a switch.

#867 1 year ago

I replaced that broken resistor and now have working Belle optos. I also made a switch harness for the switch replacing the entrance receiver opto and it works. Now to mount that switch, install the opto board back on the wireform and put the game back together.

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#868 1 year ago

When you reassemble Maverick, have it fully working and then snap two drop targets in the first 10 test games.

Not a huge deal since I still have to remove the drop mechs to clean, so I'll start with this bank first and I have spare targets. Plus I have new target decals on the way and need to apply them.

The two that broke were already cracked across the middle it turns out and the decal was holding it together. But I think the real culprit is the red rubber I have behind the targets. I think it's too firm and I'll swap in a white rubber there.

And that's why I always wait to install mirror blades because I want to make sure I don't have to keep lifting the playfield and risk scratching them.

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#871 1 year ago
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:

The reed switch I ordered to replace the entrance opto finally came, but I’m having some issues. I disconnected the transmitter opto and replaced the receiver connection with the reed switch. This should be all I need correct? I’m getting the bad opto error when the machine boots up and the reed switch seemingly does nothing. Thoughts or helpful would be appreciated.

I just replaced my entrance opto with a regular outlane type of switch. I unplugged both the connectors for the opto boards and plugged the switch into the receiver board connector. Not sure if anything is different with a reed switch.

#872 1 year ago

Yesterday I pulled out the drop target mechs to clean them and to replace the targets in the 8's bank. Game is playing great after a bunch of test games, so last night I installed the mirror blades. Played about 10 more games and then the damn top opto in the Belle crapped out.

That was the opto that seemingly just needed adjustment, but now has flat out failed. So that is exactly why I didn't trust installing an opto in the entrance and I used a physical switch. I'd be PISSED if that was the opto that gave me an issue since I'd have to tear down most of the playfield to replace it.

At least the Belle optos are easy to remove - two nuts for the wireform, unplug the spotlight and feed the opto connector up - then remove the wireform.

Here are pics of the mirror blades - the black strips on the top of the blades are the mounts for my DIY stadium style lights I make for my games. Also have a pic of the switch I made to replace the entrance opto.

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#874 1 year ago

Yup, a standard roll over switch was used. JB weld it to the gate, run the wires down thru the hole and connect to the 2 pin receiver opto connector. Done and done. I even removed the gate while I had the rail out since I removed the transmitter board (to keep since it works, but it can be left there). No need for that gate at all IMO.

This is a solution that can be easily done with only removing the left wireform which is simple. But you might have enough room to adhere the switch and run the wires without removing anything at all.

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#876 1 year ago
Quoted from mavantix:

All that work and JB weld'ing a game over a $30 opto board set? Break out the drywall screws too?
Blows my mind people are content hacking up a pin worth thousands of dollars to save $100.
Replacement opto's in case anyone wants to fix their Maverick without hacks:
ebay.com link » New Opto Board Pair For Sega Maverick Parts 520 5102 00 And 520 5103 00

Dude, give it a fucking rest. Yeah, the optos are $30, so that meant I would've had to spend $60 (was originally looking at $90 for all three optos) that I DIDN'T WANT TO SPEND ON THIS GAME. Got that? I CHOSE TO NOT SPEND THE $$ AND TRY TO FIX IT MYSELF AND I'M PLEASED WITH THE RESULTS.

Bottom line, the switch works perfectly. Hardly was "all that work" since I had the game apart anyway. I made a simple wire harness that took 10 minutes to cut, solder and connect.

It ain't your game, so quit raging on it.

#877 1 year ago

Tonight I made the stadium light kit for Maverick. It's actually a well lit game, I think, but all games look nicer with some clean lighting.

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#879 1 year ago
Quoted from wayout440:

More light for Maverick? I have warm white LEDs in mine, stock. It's probably the brightest game in my collection. I guess it matters as to what else is near it, if you have brighter games and I have dimmer games nearby, that probably has something to do with it.

Yeah, Maverick really doesn't need it, but the kits only cost me $20 to make. It keeps my games looking uniform next to each other since all my games have the LED lighting I make for them. I primarily play in a dark room and prefer the lights very dim or off, so these do the trick in my gameroom. But like I said, Maverick is lit well and even in the dark it's brighter than a lot of pins.

#880 1 year ago

One final repair for Maverick. Last night I noticed the DMD board resetting while playing, as shown in the video link below. Usually happens with both flippers pressed and I have had this happen on every Sega pin I've owned. Need to replace the bridge rectifier on the power board (circled in red in the pic).

Easiest way to test the bridge rectifier is causing the problem? With the game on for a little bit, put your finger on it and if it's hot, then replace it. You can compare with the rectifier on the board below this and it will be cool to the touch no matter how long you keep your finger on it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9GNmSRrdTfKpoKW59

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#882 1 year ago

Of course properly test the BR before replacing it. But checking to see it if's hot is always a dead giveaway that it's bad.

Luckily I had one BR left in my parts, replaced it last night and no more DMD resets. Also replaced a toasted connector on the power board while I had it removed.

#883 1 year ago
Quoted from mavantix:

All that work and JB weld'ing a game over a $30 opto board set? Break out the drywall screws too?
Blows my mind people are content hacking up a pin worth thousands of dollars to save $100.
Replacement opto's in case anyone wants to fix their Maverick without hacks:
ebay.com link » New Opto Board Pair For Sega Maverick Parts 520 5102 00 And 520 5103 00

Found out why this guy is so bent about my switch choice. Apparently he can't remember who he bought a game from that had a bad repair and thinks it was me he sold him the game. He just knows he bought it from someone in WV and he saw that I'm from WV too. So I must be the seller and he's going to monitor my posts and troll on every one. WTF?

Guess what? When the time comes to sell or trade Maverick, it will be made clear the opto was replaced with a switch. I wouldn't try to hide any repairs and am upfront with my games and any issues they had or may have.

Game is working great now and it's nice having multiball back!

#885 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I'm glad your maverick multiball is working again, but stating that a hot bridge rectifier is "ALWAYS a dead giveaway that it's bad" is just plain wrong.
Almost all bridge rectifiers will run warm to extremely hot. Most BR's have a rated max of over 125-150C, this is why many of them have heatsinks. All electricity moving through a conductor will experience resistive loss, which generates heat. Given the amount of current traveling through bridge rectifiers, and the fact that they are inefficient conductors, they can generate significant heat which can be normal.
The only way to test a bridge rectifier is by using diode tests to discover shorted or open diodes, verifying forward bias is within tolerance, and reverse bias is 0L.

Yup, it tested bad when I removed the board. The BR was burning my finger if I kept it on for longer than a few seconds. No way any BR should burn your finger and if it does, replace it. Just was an obvservation based on MY experiences with Segas, I'm not writing a repair manual.

#889 1 year ago

I was doing just fine enjoying this club and posting the work I was doing on a new game. My bad.

#892 1 year ago
Quoted from bjsilverballs:

Bridge rectifiers on any classic Bally/Stern game will burn your fingers faster

Yeah, not familiar with those games, but on Sega, in my experience with Segas, no BR should burn your finger. I have 3 Segas in the house now, and no BR will be burning to the touch. Every Sega that I've owned eventually needed that BR replaced due to DMD board resets, even on the big DMD games with the service bulletin fix applied. Just FYI to anyone else.

And for those checking my work, yes I do properly test and don't rely solely on the BR temp. It's just by now, I know the issue and how to quickly spot it by checking the temp.
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#893 1 year ago

I've been playing Maverick non-stop the past few nights and ignoring the other pins. I've gotta say, I am surprised at how much fun I'm having on it. I don't know why I'm surprised since I enjoy Sega flow. I just never thought of Maverick as a flowing game, but is, especially set on Hard. I want to dial the the difficulty more to reduce the amount of discards available though, because that is a great feature punishing you for errant shots.

Since it's up and running 100%, I re-installed the stadium lights tonight. And even though the game doesn't need the extra lighting, it's hard to go back once it's installed again. This evenly lights the middle of the playfield, plus I can remove the remaining bulb from the left corner spotllghts. Those are distracting to me and with the side rail lighting, are no longer needed.

I took pics of the 4 different white light options on these. Pics start with the lighting off, then progress thru the options shown on the remote. The last choice of Warm looks much, much warmer in person and matches the color scheme of the game. But you can see how the cold white options will look great in a sci-fi theme.

Inserts will remain incandescent since LEDs flicker awfully without an LED OCD board.

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#894 1 year ago

Adjustment 47 - Discard count

I've set it for 9 Discards tonight and I think that's the sweet spot for me. Maverick can certainly be an excellent pinball trainer with the difficulty adjustments. I needed to dial down my discards because it got too easy to complete every hand and was lacking a good challenge. More games should punish for missed and errant shots, it's a great feature of the rules.

#895 1 year ago

Finally made the captive ball skill shot last night! I had no idea it started a Drop Poker mode instead of awarding points or a mystery award. Made it again on another game and both times was able to score over 150 million in the mode.

3 weeks later
#897 1 year ago

Joined the club x2 with another Maverick back to the states after enjoying the sights of Sweden. Check out the cool coin door and stamp. Is the curved area a paper currency slot?

Turns out to be a very clean game, clean boards, all switches/optos working. So just needs a tear down cleaning, new rubber, new target decals and LEDs.

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#899 1 year ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Wow, nice find! Yes, it seems that the slot is for a bill acceptor. The word below is Danish for banknote, with a sample above the slot.

Very cool. There are Swedish ROMs installed and I also saw "sweden" somewhere on the inside of the cabinet. but didn't know if that stamp was from Sweden also. I've already wiped the ROMs and burned updated USA code.

Another interesting item is a second high voltage interlock switch installed on the left inside cabinet. The door switch will cut off high voltage as intended when the coin door is opened. BUT if the 2nd inside switch is pulled up, this overrides the coin door voltage switch and all the coils will not work. I happened to spot the switch when looking for the audit/diagnostic buttons. These were not mounted on the coin door, but on the left inside cabinet bottom.

I was told the game appears working but won't kick out a ball when it starts and flippers won't work.

Switch was up.

#900 1 year ago

Maverick was a bit hit today when we hosted our monthly league. It was the first time everyone else had played it and it was being played all day.

#903 1 year ago

What switch(es) are registering double hits?

#908 1 year ago

Movie is a must watch to appreciate the modes and callouts. It is a very fun movie, so that's a bonus.

I had a Hook once and watched the movie to understand the callouts, etc. Awful movie!

2 weeks later
#909 11 months ago

Finished the other Maverick I have. Turned out fantastic, full LEDs in GI and inserts, plays great. I did a full tear down, removed and cleaned the drop mechs, replaced the decals, new rubber, the works.

Inside cabinet walls have the typical scratches and gouges from the edges of the wireforms that sit so close to the wall. So tonight I played around with wood grain shelf paper I bought for $8. Turned out looking good and just held in place with tape. No way they stay safe when lifting the playfield. I'm going to make drop in side blades out of thin cardboard and then just pull out before lifting the playfield. I installed mirror blades on my other Maverick and they looked fantastic, but I don't have another set to install on this one.

I still have to fix the backbox GI because 1/2 is out and figure out why the settings don't save even with new batteries. Might just pop in NVRAM.

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#910 11 months ago

NVRAM installed tonight and I highly recommend it to anyone. Eliminates the batteries and it's plug & play with Segas/DE, done and done.

ebay.com link

I have this Maverick up for trade offers now, with the Allentown show around the corner. But I'm really gaining an appreciation for the rules and all the drop targets and am leaning towards keeping it for a while. To be honest, drop targets are not a favorite feature of mine. But Maverick has such fun rules with Discards, especially when the game is set to Hard & Extra Hard.

I have an offer of a Goldeneye in a straight trade. I've never played it, but it looks fun and of course I enjoy Segas. Anyone here own/have owned a Goldeneye? What's your thoughts?

3 weeks later
#916 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

I am looking at buying a Maverick. Owner said there is a problem with the optics. How does that impact game play? Is it a big fix? Thanks. Jim

If it's the opto at the entrance of the paddlewheel, then you'll need to remove some upper playfield parts to reach it.

If it's an opto on the Lauren Belle itself, they are easy access to replace or repair.

You need them all working for the game to play correctly.

1 month later
#925 9 months ago

I just played a game on mine and checked the settings too and I didn't see anything about the raise/fold feature, but check the manual to be sure. Also check you're running the latest CPU code in the off chance that was a bug fixed.

Perform all the switch and coil tests too.

#930 9 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

ok so mine is 4.01. should i upgrade to 4.02?

Yes, you'll want to order the updated ROM chip so you'e at the latest code version. Not saying it has anything to do with your Raise/fold issue, but at some point you'll want to update.

Quoted from Sirgubster9:

is there a way to get music playing for the attract mode?

There is a setting for Attract Mode music off/on in the adjustments, along with many other adjustments you might have fun tweaking and setting, especially as you learn the game and get better at it. Look in the manual to the adjustments section and it will list every single adjustment you can make, you'll see the attract mode adjustment in there.

1 week later
#972 9 months ago
Quoted from DiegoWally:

I've got a new issue. Lower Right flipper working, but when pressing the right flipper button, it makes the display flash "192X64 DOT-MATRIX SYSTEM VERSION USA/0.00 RELEASE A 1.00 OCTOBER 5, 1994" and the horn for the Lauren Belle sound, just like it does when booting up as you turn the game on with the switch under the cabinet. Any thoughts?

From my experience, test the bridge rectifiers on the boards. I've had the display reset issue on my Segas I've owned, so far the cause was always a bad bridge rectifier. Easy to replace on these boards too.

#980 9 months ago

Yeah that flipper board is confusing with the dipswitches upside down. Wtf did they do that for?

2 months later
#1082 6 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Keep in mind this is subjective. Assuming a well played example that is fully working, perhaps cosmetically blemished but not beat up, about $1500.

I'd buy a $1500 Maverick every day. Unlikely to find one for that price these days though, unless the DMD was bad or was a total warehouse, filthy, basketcase.

#1085 6 months ago

Sitting at $2000, not $1500 though. Guaranteed the sellers won’t go as low as $1500.

3 weeks later
#1092 5 months ago

I’ll check mine later.... it I know a full plunge of mine doesn’t make it all the way up the ramp and around either.

1 month later
#1125 4 months ago
Quoted from ViriiGuy:

The only issue I have left is a real head scratcher. It is impossible, seemingly, to get the middle (2) skill shot. It will always give you 1. I have checked, all 4 skill shot switches activate, every time a ball rolls over them. But send the ball into hole 2 and you will always get the 1 skill shot reward instead.

Might be the switch needs better adjustment for it to register when a ball drops on it in gameplay versus testing?

1 month later
#1159 63 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

Got my Maverick setup and everything seems to work pretty well, needs bath, rubbers, leds. I have one random issue with a drop target. Sometimes it drops and other times it is like it gets stuck and will not drop no matter how it is hit. Is there a fix besides replacing with a brand new target? It does not look damaged or anything.

Remove the mech, clean it and the targets well. Which one is it?

#1162 63 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

3 bank center, far right target.

I can sometimes hit the left target in that 3 bank squarely and it won’t budge.

1 month later
#1179 32 days ago

Yup I used to get a ball stuck there too. Adjust the targets so they sit higher and also make sure the game is level.

1 week later
#1188 25 days ago

Yup, very fun rules in Maverick and I have my Discards set to 8 or 9 in the settings. The default discards is way to high and doesn't punish for missing shots or just flailing away.

#1190 25 days ago

Would’ve been awesome if the drop targets were also CPU controlled. So you have the hole remove a card from the hand and it also drops the target card in that hand.

#1196 22 days ago
Quoted from dendenjan:

Hi. Seems I missed the boat on getting an Ingo's DMD saver board Ver. 2 for my newly acquired Maverick pin. Any help or leads would be appreciated. Thanks

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