Maverick
Data East, 1994You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinballmaniac40.
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Quoted from Sirgubster9:I apologize that i keep leaving more and more posts on here, I dont know exactly what the rules are and Im sorry if at this point Im really annoying and just taking up space
You always can start a separate repair thread, but make sure you put a link to the club thread so others may learn from your experience. It is always hard to predict how quickly you can get help, especially if you have multiple issues in the game you need help with.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:oh really? I was soooo excited I thought I found it, super bummer. ok thanks for info.
Ya right now I really only have the one problem.. that i know of ha ha, Im guessing once I get the flipper push button switches working there will be other stuff that pops up, but for now just the one tiny thing holding me back. thanks guys.
So you tested all the switches in the switch edge test and those are the only 2 not registering?
No house test mode.
Actually, there would be 2 different switch tests to run. First remove all 4 balls out of the trough.
Run the Active Switch test to see if there are any anomalies. Note those.
I see in the manual, it is only labeled as Switch test, sorry, most labeled as Switch Edge test. Here, with the balls out, test out all the switches and make note of all the ones not registering and any single switch that may be registering others when it should only be the one.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:ok the active switch test i believe i have already ran and had no anomalies, but I can definitely run it again. i have yet to take the balls out of the trough
Make sure you remove the balls out before running the active switch test otherwise, the trough switches will be called out.
Scan through the tests, there maybe a test called "clear balls out" or some similar name as it will cycle them out of the trough for you.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:I tried popping them up by using that little metal plunger piece at the bottom
FYI, if you leave the playfield down in the cabinet, it is easier to pop them out with a quick flick of the plunger.
It is harder to pop them out if you have the playfield rails sitting up on top of the lockdown bar receiver. Even after 10 years, I sometimes still catch myself doing that and having to lower the playfield back down in the cabinet.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:I was unable to flick the balls out even with the playfield down, I'm probably just not doing it right. But I know there are some other ways to get the balls out.
I will empty em all just for clarity.
And ya I have pressed the flippers in, they don't register at all on the dmd so they definitely are no working as push buttons.
But I think it finally clicked as far as testing and checking the test matrix, I was having difficulty understanding for some reason, but now I get it. Just got to test all the stuff in the column and row and maybe other items are out and maybe I can find a pattern and go from there. No clue why this wasn't sinking in before. Thanks for all your help. Once I get some more info I'll be back asking more questions ha ha. Thanks again everyone
Test all switches. Sometimes there are other affected switches that end up as phantom switches closures not related to a row or column. This is what you seem to be experiencing with the start button so make sure all the green wires (slight tug on the wires to be sure) are connected to the trough switches. This is why it would be good to repeat that test with the balls out of the trough to see if the start button then causes trough switches to register.
I also would look at all the switches in column 8 to see if any of them have a green-gray wire broken. It is best to give the wires a small tug as the heat shrink can hold a broken wire in place looking like it is connected. Also look to make sure that green-gray wire(s) are soldered to the middle connection of the playfield switches. The switches for 63 and 64 are likely physically different than the other six in that column.
Maverick switch matrix (resized).png
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Side note I must have miscommunicated. The start button only comes on when I press the start button. Nothing phantom there, but I will be taking all 4 balls out and basically testing every possible switch and especially that column. I finally feel like things are going to work out. Thanks a lot once again.
So with the below message does not apply from what you are saying above? What you state below, it sounds as if you were in the Active Switch test. If so, that sounds expected if you still had the balls in the trough.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Then i press the start button for instance and it says that Im pressing the start button on the screen now as well as the 4 ball troughs.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Basically when in the mode where it says what things are active and each item pops up on the screen. When I do nothing and the 4 balls are in the trough cuz I haven't emptied them yet it basically flashes up on the screen each ball switch. So it'll scroll through all 4 switches. Then I will push and hold down the start button as well and now it'll scroll through and name each ball switch and the start switch and then when I held down extra ball button it would show that switch being active as well.
Yes, this is the Active Switch test just as I had expected. Having the balls out is the way to find out if there are any stuck switches. That is all this test is really good for. So we can forget about it now.
Quoted from DiegoWally:I've got a new issue. Lower Right flipper working, but when pressing the right flipper button, it makes the display flash "192X64 DOT-MATRIX SYSTEM VERSION USA/0.00 RELEASE A 1.00 OCTOBER 5, 1994" and the horn for the Lauren Belle sound, just like it does when booting up as you turn the game on with the switch under the cabinet. Doesn't affect game play, just a quick flash on the display and the horn sound (annoying).
Purchased new RottenDog flipper board, because the existing one is hacked, and came with soldered fuses where the holders were shot, soldered in pin connectors, etc. Installed new board, played for less than 20-30 seconds, lower right flipper starts machine gunning and then blows fuse1 for Coil A at flipper board. Searched for a possible ground issue and attempted 4 new fuses that all blew. Through diagnostics, got a check lower right flipper end of stroke error.
Put old flipper board back in and is playing as stated above, no error through diagnostics, just annoying. Any thoughts?
The Rottendog flipper board is not just a plug and play board. You must set the game selectable switches correctly for the correct game. Please post a picture of the new board.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:the entire right column on the switch matrix doesn't work.
Glad to hear you are feeling better.
I figured the whole column wasn't working. At the top of the chart, it shows the column is driven by Q48. Test out this transistor and compare your results to Q49 or Q50. Likely you will see a big difference in how Q48 measures against Q49/Q50.
Set your meter to 2k ohms. Test the transistor outer pin to outer pin, then the middle to one of the outer pins and then middle to the other outer pin. One of these combinations is likely to show the transistor is shorted.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Already posted response at other thread, but this one probably makes more sense for people looking up info in the future...
Ok let's assume the transistor ends up being shorted, can I just purchase a new transistor and remove the old one and solder in the new one? And where is this transistor that I'm testing located.. picture attached location?
Yes. 2N3904. Yes, correct location.
If there is a Fry's Electronics store near you, NTE part 2N3904 may be available there.
Fry's should had NTE part 2N3904. I never heard of the one you picked up.
Compare your results of Q48 to Q49 or Q50. 200 ohm range may work, but I mentioned to use 2k resistance setting.
I see markings on the back of the Q48 in the board, so likely someone took off a used part from another board.
If you use the www.nteinc.com actual website, only NTE 2N3904 is the only substituted for part 2N3904. NTE is just the company name. Likely stocked at Fry's only as 2N3904. You can ask the service desk in the computer area. You can call your local Fry's to save a trip, I would imagine.
All those you show on your post are all unknown brand names to me. Who know where they are coming from via Amazon, not to mention quality.
Plenty of pinball websites sell 2N3904 that would not be the NTE brand. I was just stating earlier, the brands that Amazon are selling are not familiar to me. I did not want you to end up with fakes.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:I replaced the transistor and no change what so ever.
Did you turn the part the same direction as the others? It is best to use the ohm test on the multimeter to make sure you do not have a solder short between the legs.
No, I do not suggest buying a new board. You can have the board repaired for much cheaper.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:side note to test that i dont have a solder short between the legs should i just put a prong on each leg and basically compare it to the transistor next to it and make sure they are the same?
Yes, correct.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:just confirming... do we know for a fact that its supposed to be a 2n3904? because i feel like it is reading very very differently then the transistors that are next to it... I looked in the manual but it didnt list any transistor numbers.
i did find a pinball repair website that did agree with you that 2n3904 was correct for q48 though, it also said you could use NTE 123AP and so is a 2N4401
YES! It is in the written on the schematic in the manual. Even the parts are labeled the same. Confirmed to be a 2N3904 only, even NTE is only a 2N3904. If you changed it already and did not damage any traces, then you have a problem elsewhere.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:on the pinball repair website it also said this:When Replacing Bad Driver Transistors...
ALWAYS check the coil mounted diode too! Often the coil mounted diode will break, causing the driving transitor to fail. If the diode is not replaced also, the driving transistor will fail again and again. This is often overlooked in DataEast/Sega games.
That has to do with a coil problem. You have a switch matrix problem. Not related.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:and will that damage on the backside of the board cause any issues?
It looks connected. Since you don't show a picture of the top side of the board, can't tell.
Quoted from Weed_of_Crime:Just installed a color DmD. Wish they'd full colour this baby. Surely they will?[quoted image][quoted image]
It is just a matter of time. Seems there should be a better color to try in the mean time.
Sorry can't tell with the part covering the traces.
Try the test on the connectors with jumpers that you had read about.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:And side note seriously post 1001 seems to totally have full color just saying.
That is a different display, not a ColorDMD.
Quoted from Weed_of_Crime:It's a colordmd clown. Bought from colordmd direct.
I was referring to the one that Sirgubster9 talking about in post 1001.
Yes, yours is a ColorDMD and I bet the gold does look much better than that green you had it on.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:so weeds is a colorDMD, what is post 1001s? Isnt that basically a color version but like full color of what Weed has?
It is not the ColorDMD brand display. Maverick has not been colorized by them. These 2 products are not related to one another.
Quoted from OTRChief:the colors are much better.
The colors are correct now. 
The Sega hedgehog should always be blue.
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