Quoted from DiegoWally:
Same with my Maverick, it's got a tight field against the rails. I like the look of those Mustang blades on a Mav, but no can do here., they'd get ripped. Slapping em up would just waste time and money. Besides modifying the edges of the playfield and maybe have to plane the wood sides, too...a project for another day maybe. Are most Maverick's that snug?
I have side art on all 14 of my games. Two have mirror blades and 12 have vinyl side art. Maverick & White Water are the tightest. The mirror blade people suggested removing the blades (3 screws each side) any time extensive work is planned with lots of ups and downs of the playfield. For the vinyl art it is suggested to use poster board between the art and the playfield sides when raising or lowering the playfield.
Quoted from wayout440:
My Mav is so tight on the sides it scrapes the paint. Vinyl side art ripped so I removed that. I can't see putting a poster board, blade, or anything of thickness in it without major modification.
Yours must be tighter than mine. My sides were all scrapped up but some of that was due to the PF not being exactly straight when raising and lowering it. The poster board I used was 2 sheets for $1.50 and I had to slide it back and forth to work it into position.
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:
Hi, thanks for all the help here, I’ve been able to fix all the mechanical issues. I have one last issue with the Laurna bell going off continuously. Seems like the entrance opto registers intermittently. Has anyone done this fix? Seems like a better solution instead of replacing the opto
Years ago I put in a switch that is activated by the gate. Very simple and works very well.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:
Oh ya sorry I guess in my brain it makes sense, but typing it out poorly. Basically when in the mode where it says what things are active and each item pops up on the screen. When I do nothing and the 4 balls are in the trough cuz I haven't emptied them yet it basically flashes up on the screen each ball switch. So it'll scroll through all 4 switches. Then I will push and hold down the start button as well and now it'll scroll through and name each ball switch and the start switch and then when I held down extra ball button it would show that switch being active as well. And then I would push either flipper button and sadly it will still just say the active 4 balls and no other switches. So I believe the start button and extra ball button and 4 ball trough buttons are all doing good. And then the flipper buttons aren't registering which they obviously are supposed to. So next I need to open glass and press other switches. Prior to this I was scared to open glass and press stuff by hand so start and extra ball where the only switches I was able to use the active test mode on.
Switches 63 & 64 in the switch matrix are the flipper end of stroke switches. These are normally closed and open when the flipper is fully up. Make sure your end of stroke switches are adjusted correctly. These switches most likely tell the game to raise or fold when the ball is sitting in the VUK.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:
First off... Holy crap! How is your display in sweet color! Sonic looks so tight!
Second off I replaced the transistor and no change what so ever. Now it is possible that I replaced it poorly, I'm not very good with a soldering gun, but I feel like it might be something else. The fact that the board had already been repaired at q48 makes me think whoever had this machine before me tried the exact same thing. I was thinking about buying a new computer board but they are like 300 bucks which is a bit pricey, but probably cheaper then someone coming out to fix it actually. Ok so are there other tests that I should be running and does anyone know any video tutorials for those tests? Or should I bit the bullet and buy that new mad dog board or whatever it's called...?
Remove the balls and go to the active switch test. Do any of the switches in column 8 register when you manually close them? If any register then Q48 is ok. If some register and some don't then there is a wiring problem. If none of the switches register then you still have a transistor / board problem.
While the board is a nicely made product I took it off my Maverick after a few months. Basically it increases the life of the DMD by lowering its brightness. There are lots of good used large DMDs available if yours has problems since ColorDMDs have been made for Bay Watch & Frankenstein. Hopefully a color DMD will be made for Maverick this year. I probably have a DMD saver board in my parts drawer but I won't be at that location until early May.
Quoted from dendenjan:
Why take it off? Was the display too dim for you even when the saver board was set to max?
I did not like the dimmer DMD. At the highest setting it was actually brighter than without the board. I was going to include it with the sale of my Bay Watch display however it never sold.
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