Couple questions as a recent Maverick owner... What does the Indian say when you drop the ball in Start Mode? It sounds like something a "google a doogle"!? Also, any thoughts on fixing my main ramp... it's sagged just enough to the right that the ball can get caught on the 4th drop hole if it doesn't have enough speed to make it up to the top. Should I replace the plastic or can I heat it just enough to get it to angle back left properly? Maybe a video would better explain what's going wrong if I'm the only one having the issue. Thanks!

Anyone know of any available inside cabinet artwork for Maverick? I tried emailing pingraffix to see if they could do one but the email bounced back.

Thanks, yeah, I have the same inner cabinet damage you describe, was hoping to just hide it. The black vinyl is a good idea. If I could figure out the color brown paint to match I could just repaint... just finished up my shop job, I think I'm going to have to steal your pair of 2's mod, that looks nice!

I would like to know as well, but can't find much of anything online. I have the following info turning on my game:

192X64 DOT-MATRIX
SYSTEM VERSION USA/0.00
RELEASE A4.01
NOVEMBER 10, 1994

and

MAVERICK
JANURARY 20, 1995
USA CPU 4.04

This has some info on the CPU changes, unfortunately nothing on the display ROM changes:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb69.pdf

Ohhh, those could work... though if you do something custom, maybe integrate some of the wild west aspects of the movie into the poker design?

I replaced my entrance opto's with these reproductions and never have had an issue again. They have brighter LEDs, so they work better in that location, plus no cold solder joints!

ebay.com link: NEW Opto Board Pair for Sega Maverick Parts 520 5102 00 and 520 5103 00

Don't know a part number on those. I was able to reuse mine, as they have a center pin you can push out and save, and they can be reinstalled if they're not damaged. They're similar to Gottlieb plastic rivets MP10 and MP91, but not exactly the same.

What GLSP3022 said, though it my case issues arose after rebuilding the flippers and overhauling/shopping the pin. I had to adjust the placement and slightly bend the diverter to function well without interfering with the ball. In some circumstances it wasn't lifting high enough to let the ball travel under it in time. I tested with a ball and moving the diverter until I got it tuned to the sweet spot, now it works reliably again.

You just gotta take the VUK habitrail and the other plastics around that area off, then it's pretty accessible.

There's a custom painted one as part of a lot here:

http://coinoppartsetc.com/product/parts-sale-pinball-machine-parts/maverick-pinball-machine-game-parts-misc-plastic-lot-sale

...if it's still available. It's pretty much unobtainium as there are no new old stock around as far as I know. You might beg TNT Amusements, in one of Todd's old videos about Maverick he mentions buying a couple the last of the NOS ones, maybe he still has one.

Would love to know this as well. Mine needs touch up on the inside.

Presumably AL means the Poker Championship mode.

Maverick was my first pin less than two years ago. After like 3 weeks, it blew fuses and wouldn't power on, just kept blowing fuses. That's how I learned to diagnose a pinball machine, and remove and resolder a bridge rectifier on a PCB. Now only if I could get that damn EM in the garage fixed...

Welcome to the club! I like adding DMD saver's to my large DMD pins (have in both BW and Maverick), it's like $25 and should save the $500 DMD forever.

I've seen people do smoke stacks and a light inside the Lauren Bell... may be pics further back in this thread? Be careful with that boat plastic, it's unobtainium.

I wish someone did a nice custom inside cabinet side art print for Maverick. Some generics out there, but they don't look great to me.

mbott1701 made sticker image to print for the 2 card targets on the ramp here, and his post has a link to the DMD saver as well https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/maverick-fan-thread-we-play-till-we-drop-winner-takes-all/page/8#post-2484900

When is the ramp diverter suppose to open in gameplay? I need to adjust/test mine, but I don't know when it should be opening to let the ball through to the left flipper and when it shouldn't. Right now it seems everything comes to the right flipper.

The optos for the locks are under the boat, just remove the white boat plastic to access them. It's common that a loose connection or cold solder joints on the opto board connectors cause them to fail. You can try checking the connection or reflowing solder on the board, or replace the opto boards with new ones (there's a guy on eBay that sells them).

Buy the optos on eBay if you can't repair them and don't hack up another Maverick with an ugly switch. I replaced mine, completely 100% solid and work every time.

I got addicted to pinball with my first pin, Maverick, less than 2 years ago, now I have 10 pins. Learned a lot doing a shop job on it too. It'll probably never leave my collection, very fun game and I quite like the western poker theme too.

Before buying a kit, test LEDs vs. keeping incandescents in it too, personal taste, but I'm happy I just replaced all the bulbs with new. The incandescent bulbs fit the western theme well.

DMDsaver is a great idea IMHO. Protect the $500 jumbo display all you can.

Also, if you get hum from the speakers, you gotta do this easy fix https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-speaker-noise-ideas-for-a-cure/page/7#post-3867672

Yep that's the entrance optos, and they're not that bad to get to. You need to remove a few plastics and the habitrail to get down to them, but you can do it. I agree, replace them with new from the guy on ebay. Reflow might work, and you can replace the LED on the transmitter, but in my opinion spending an hour or two to get to them out and replace them, it's just worth using $30 new ones that you know will work and you don't have to revisit the issue.

Looks like it should restore well! At least your unobtainium boat plastic appears to be in once piece! Is it missing the apron, trough and flipper mechs, and the right lane guides, or did you start taking it apart already?

Take the boat plastic off, and go into diagnostics in the menu and get to the switch test. Then use you finger to block the light between the board with the red light and the one receiving it (not lit). It should register the switch and display it on the DMD.

After replacing all four opto boards on mine last night I had an issue where they would both trigger as switch hits when obstructing just one, and as a result the boat wouldn't hold the ball locks. I ended up reinstalling one of the old opto receivers, and the problem went away, so not even sure what the deal was but it's working now for me so I'm leaving it alone.

I'm curious how well that paint matched? Did you get enamel paint in that shade? What sheen? I need to do some touch up on my cab insides.

The backbox GI should be on in that picture, it flashes with a relay, but I believe the DE/Sega games only have a relay that flashes all the GI, so there's no individual on/off per string. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong). I'd check the bulbs first (swap with working one), then check connector and the board header, and get the multimeter out and start checking for voltage. My guess would be the IDC connector is making poor connection on that string.

They look alright. I wish maybe they were a little more theme integrated, a couple stage coaches, maybe some water behind the boat, a poker parlor/bar scene... but beggars can't be choosers, not many options for Maverick.

I think we need reference photos of this HUO Maverick!!

I'd upgrade the code to 4.0, but not sure a change log is around anywhere.

Wow that's an incredible deal!! Very cool to see the pics, it's in great shape!

Assuming your display ROM is old, then you just need the game and display roms, so 3. The sound roms aren't different, new ones would be the same as your original. Check your display roms though, if you have display v4.01 then you don't need to update those either.

Sounds like something is installed incorrectly, or mis-aligned. Has it ever worked and then just started doing this, or has always been working incorrectly since you've had the pin? Is the coil and spring upside down / in the wrong position? Got a picture of the plunger mech from top and under the playfield?

Hmm, if it's not binding then maybe take it apart again to inspect the plunger and coil sleeve? Otherwise, I'd check the ohms of the coil to make sure it's not burned up or shorted.

BR3 delivers 18v to the display, so that sound good.

Has the 5v display power fix been done on your pin? It sounds like your issue. The way you can tell is if the wires powering it is in a loop.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1545

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6326-00

Sega service bulletin #106
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts-blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/sb106.pdf

I fixed the same thing on a friend machine by pulling the speaker panel out more, I was able to use a screw driver and bend the metal retaining hooks up enough to allow the whole thing to fall back in, and then take apart normally and readjust the metal hooks. Worth a try. You can put a bit of pressure on the glass, it'll bend before it breaks.

1. Yes runs all the time during game play. It's not normal, it's most likely the entrance opto's behind the boat. Replace them, or maybe reflow the solder on them as they do get cold solder joints and work intermittently.

2. Not near my pin, but make sure if you changed the plunger spring you used a strong enough one? Also make sure nothing is binding the plunger and it works well.

3. The coin door has a high voltage interrupt switch for safety. It's usually white, on the left, press it to test flashers and coils, or you can usually pull them out to turn on high voltage while the door is open.

4. Accessory printer/dollar bill mech power or something similar most likely.

I replaced all the targets on mine when I shopped it. Just unscrew the whole drop target mechs from the bottom of the game and disassemble. It's much easier to replace them when the mech is in your hands. The only special tool I found useful was a spring hook tool to assist with the springs on each target, similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Moody-51-1850-Spring-Lifter-Length/dp/B00207BTOC/

Riverboat rarely pops up used from a game someone has parted out. There's no NOS of it around.

Dude just replace the entrance opto boards with the re-pro's. Don't butcher the poor game.

All that work and JB weld'ing a game over a $30 opto board set? Break out the drywall screws too?

Blows my mind people are content hacking up a pin worth thousands of dollars to save $100.

Replacement opto's in case anyone wants to fix their Maverick without hacks:
ebay.com link: NEW Opto Board Pair for Sega Maverick Parts 520 5102 00 and 520 5103 00

I had this problem once years ago, and I think I solved it by securing the connectors to the opto boards better using zip ties around the connector and board.

Code version is displayed when you turn the game on, I think 4.02 was the latest version... Meloyelo51 can help you out if you need new ROMs. They're chips you replace in the game board, just one for Maverick game code, don't think display or sound code was updated on this title.

In the test menu there's an option to test all lamps.

To test flashers or coils, you'll have to have the coin door shut (or pull the door switch out to lock it on)... safety interlock disables the high voltage.

The way I read that, switches 3 and 6 should be set to 1 and the others set to 0 (open). You have 1 and 4 set on. The DIP switches are upside down compared to the legend.

The dice go between the 3 drop bank and the bottom pop bumper and jack goes to the left of the ramp. You can see both in this photo. Not sure about the gunman, based on the holes it looks like it would be a ball deflector to keep trapped ball from happening somewhere or a ramp mounted sign... never seen it before.

0D64AE17-3A6A-4026-901E-6F0118C67550 (resized).jpeg

I feel like this issue has been addressed, but I don't recall the solution. Everyone once in a while my Maverick has started playing the Lauren Bell horn in attract mode. Game play doesn't seem to be affected. The horn doesn't seen particularly scheduled either, sort of random after the game has been on for 30 minutes or so...

Hmm, they've been replaced, but I'll have to check them...maybe lose connection or something. Thanks.

Excellent info, and probably the source of my issue. I had removed the backglass and display panel to take video of the display cable “mod” (loop of wire) my game had for a fellow pinhead with a Maverick. I bet the connector is making flaky contact or something of the sort. I don’t notice the display going out but I’m not looking at the game when I hear the random horn. I’ll investigate. Thank you!

Much trial and error, it seems, and maybe I'm crazy, but the issue is the volume adjustment pot... set in a certain area it seems the issue has gone away, but move it, and particularly rapidly or certain part, and the horn sound is played?! After adjusting volume and a few hours now it hasn't done it during attract mode. Is this even possible?

Yeah that makes some sense. I couldn't replicate anything messing with the display connector, I wonder if it's the power connector going to the sound board. I need break out the DMM and check 5v too.

If all else fails, I have one of the Sega XL displays I pulled out of my Baywatch I could sell you .. I didn't realize they command $600+ ... sheesh.