(Topic ID: 79446)

Maverick fan thread - We play till we drop, winner takes all!

By Atomicboy

10 years ago


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#734 6 years ago

Joined the club today. It's in transit to me. I'll post pics once it gets here....Heehaw!

3 years later
#1495 2 years ago

Hi everyone, I just got around to start working on my Maverick that was sitting for a long time....I got it mostly working except the paddle wheel motor is not turning....(it was working before disassembly) .I measured the voltage in the connector and got approx 3.5VAC but I get nothing at the motor.....am I doing something wrong, what should look for?

Edit: I discovered some of the high power section is not working....which is weird the flippers, VUK and flashers work but not the pops, paddlewheel, slings or diverter
I looked it up they have the 32v red power wire in common...BR2 is good, found F5 blown, replaced fuse, it immediately blew again.

Added over 2 years ago:

Well, it turned out to be the caps on the powerboard ....so the C2 and C3 and C7 were replaced and now the game boots.

1 month later
#1511 2 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

Looking for a NOS pair of optos for the Lauren Belle entrance on Maverick. I can't find them in stock anywhere (in US). Thanks!
[quoted image]

I had issues with the front ones and reflowed solder on them and they worked fine after that.

#1514 2 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

This is the entrance opto. Which is a mf'n pain in the ass to get to. I reflowed the original optos several times before buying these replacement optos a few years back. Now these are crapping out. If I can't find new ones I will reflow them and cross my fingers.

Yeah, I tore my down for a shop job..honestly once I started it took like 20 minutes to remove all the wire form and ramps. Just take some pics of the plastics to speed up reassembly. Also reflow solder on everything not just the optos. Lastly if you're handy you can just replace the optos, they're like 2 bucks on mouser.

Infrared emitters: QED123
Infrared detectors: QSD124

1 week later
#1524 2 years ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

I have had a problem for a long time with my flippers where either switch activated all three flippers. I bought a replacement Rottendog board and continued to have the problem. I decided to try to fix my original DE Flipper board. I replaced Q2 (Tip32C), SR1 (IRFZ34N) and Q3 (Tip36C). Now the left flipper & right upper work correctly but the right lower flipper chatters. The upper right flipper does not have an end of stroke switch; is that correct? Any thoughts on other parts I may need to replace or potential fixes.

Flipper chatter is usually caused by the leaf switch behind the flipper button. Some rare times the hold circuit of the coil that's on its way out may also cause it...meter it and check the solder work.

1 week later
#1535 2 years ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

This evening I removed the 4 opto sensors in the Lauren Belle and reflowed solder on them. I don’t think I messed anything up. Hopefully, they will work reliably now. Yesterday, it was not locking a second ball, but seems ok now.
Visually is there a way to look at the optos and tell they are working or aligned properly/improperly?
I didn’t really see any obvious cold solder cracks when I reflowed everything.

Most times it's one of the optos, but sometimes it's the connector with the 2 wires. But reflowing solder on all the connections is the right way to go.

#1537 2 years ago
Quoted from Liftserv:

Does anyone know what part number the connectors are for the entrance opto? My are soldered to the board

There are 2 types...one is the IDC type then there is the Molex type....the molex is the preferred method but you need to get a crimper. The IDC you just use a tool and slam the wire down on the sharp contacts. But if it's working and solders to the board correctly just leave it.

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0334-00

you can always cut the connector to the size you need with an exacto kinfe or something similar.

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