Maverick
Data East, 1994You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider OTRChief.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from ahdelarge:The Maverick owner contacted me this morning and sent me a picture:
Bottom Lock - Good
Top Lock - Good
Wheel Entrance - Bad.To replace the entrance Optos I used a leaf switch which is activated by the entrance gate.
Quoted from DiegoWally:Same with my Maverick, it's got a tight field against the rails. I like the look of those Mustang blades on a Mav, but no can do here., they'd get ripped. Slapping em up would just waste time and money. Besides modifying the edges of the playfield and maybe have to plane the wood sides, too...a project for another day maybe. Are most Maverick's that snug?
I have side art on all 14 of my games. Two have mirror blades and 12 have vinyl side art. Maverick & White Water are the tightest. The mirror blade people suggested removing the blades (3 screws each side) any time extensive work is planned with lots of ups and downs of the playfield. For the vinyl art it is suggested to use poster board between the art and the playfield sides when raising or lowering the playfield.
Quoted from wayout440:My Mav is so tight on the sides it scrapes the paint. Vinyl side art ripped so I removed that. I can't see putting a poster board, blade, or anything of thickness in it without major modification.
Yours must be tighter than mine. My sides were all scrapped up but some of that was due to the PF not being exactly straight when raising and lowering it. The poster board I used was 2 sheets for $1.50 and I had to slide it back and forth to work it into position.
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:Hi, thanks for all the help here, I’ve been able to fix all the mechanical issues. I have one last issue with the Laurna bell going off continuously. Seems like the entrance opto registers intermittently. Has anyone done this fix? Seems like a better solution instead of replacing the opto
Years ago I put in a switch that is activated by the gate. Very simple and works very well.
MaverickEntranceSwitch (resized).JPGQuoted from Sirgubster9:Oh ya sorry I guess in my brain it makes sense, but typing it out poorly. Basically when in the mode where it says what things are active and each item pops up on the screen. When I do nothing and the 4 balls are in the trough cuz I haven't emptied them yet it basically flashes up on the screen each ball switch. So it'll scroll through all 4 switches. Then I will push and hold down the start button as well and now it'll scroll through and name each ball switch and the start switch and then when I held down extra ball button it would show that switch being active as well. And then I would push either flipper button and sadly it will still just say the active 4 balls and no other switches. So I believe the start button and extra ball button and 4 ball trough buttons are all doing good. And then the flipper buttons aren't registering which they obviously are supposed to. So next I need to open glass and press other switches. Prior to this I was scared to open glass and press stuff by hand so start and extra ball where the only switches I was able to use the active test mode on.
Switches 63 & 64 in the switch matrix are the flipper end of stroke switches. These are normally closed and open when the flipper is fully up. Make sure your end of stroke switches are adjusted correctly. These switches most likely tell the game to raise or fold when the ball is sitting in the VUK.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:First off... Holy crap! How is your display in sweet color! Sonic looks so tight!
Second off I replaced the transistor and no change what so ever. Now it is possible that I replaced it poorly, I'm not very good with a soldering gun, but I feel like it might be something else. The fact that the board had already been repaired at q48 makes me think whoever had this machine before me tried the exact same thing. I was thinking about buying a new computer board but they are like 300 bucks which is a bit pricey, but probably cheaper then someone coming out to fix it actually. Ok so are there other tests that I should be running and does anyone know any video tutorials for those tests? Or should I bit the bullet and buy that new mad dog board or whatever it's called...?
Remove the balls and go to the active switch test. Do any of the switches in column 8 register when you manually close them? If any register then Q48 is ok. If some register and some don't then there is a wiring problem. If none of the switches register then you still have a transistor / board problem.
Quoted from dendenjan:Seems I missed the boat on getting an Ingo's DMD saver board Ver. 2 for my newly acquired Maverick pin. Any help or leads would be appreciated.
While the board is a nicely made product I took it off my Maverick after a few months. Basically it increases the life of the DMD by lowering its brightness. There are lots of good used large DMDs available if yours has problems since ColorDMDs have been made for Bay Watch & Frankenstein. Hopefully a color DMD will be made for Maverick this year. I probably have a DMD saver board in my parts drawer but I won't be at that location until early May.
Quoted from dendenjan:Why take it off? Was the display too dim for you even when the saver board was set to max?
I did not like the dimmer DMD. At the highest setting it was actually brighter than without the board. I was going to include it with the sale of my Bay Watch display however it never sold.
Quoted from crujones4life:Is anyone with CPU v4.04 willing to do me a huge favor? Can you pull the glass, complete hands and advance through all five modes until the Poker Championship light starts flashing...then see if lock 2 light is lit solid? On my game it lights as soon as Poker Championship light starts flashing. But...it stays lit throughout the rest of the game regardless of what lights are lit, what switches are activated, what coils fire, it doesn't matter it will stay lit until game over.
I have owned Maverick for 22 years and have only gotten to the Poker Championship 4 or 5 times so I have no idea why this matters to you. I have CPU 4.04 and played the game with the glass off so I could get to the Poker Championship. When the Poker Championship light starts flashing lock 2 comes on solid without lock 1 being lit. If you get multi-ball prior to scoring the Poker Championship light 2 goes out at the end of multi-ball and the Poker Championship is still flashing.
Quoted from mad_carl:what does one of those cost to build? I had been contemplating trying out Pin2dmd, either buying one pre-made here in Canada, or maybe going to DIY route from China. Although I don't think a colorization has been made for Maverick yet.
There are lots of good used displays available because of ColorDMD's being available for the other large DMD Games. I have a very good used large DMD from Bay Watch available for $200 plus shipping. I also have a brand new one that I bought a number of years ago (I paid $450) that I will sell for $300 plus shipping. I would probably buy a LED ColorDMD and use it monochrome until the software is released.
I installed the new ColorDMD X-LED this weekend. If you purchase one make sure you have a strong 5 volt line going to the Sega DMD controller. If you are having any resetting issues with the original display they will be amplified with the new display. Once I fixed my 5 volt line the new display works great. Many of the scoring screens are very bright colors and the mode screens are a little more subdued. I didn't notice the reflections that show in the pictures while playing. I like these products and this completes my games. I have 6 LCD, 3 LED, & 2 X-LED
Maverick Screens sm04 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm06 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm09 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm11 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm13 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm15 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm17 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm22 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm24 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm25 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm29 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm30 (resized).jpgP1020994 (resized).JPGQuoted from nerbflong:Go into the menu of the ColorDMD and change your LED configuration from RGB to RBG or viceversa. I didn't color any pinks in the game (Unless its your camera??) The actual ColorDMD menu selections should be in a orange color
Thanks for the advice - the colors are much better.
New Maverick Screens sm01 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm02 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm04 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm07 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm08 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm10 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm13 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm16 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm17 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm20 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm21 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm23 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm29 (resized).jpgQuoted from Williampinball:I have been looking for a plastic set for a Maverick ,new or good used ones please let me know what u have thanks
I have a NOS plastic set of 27 pieces available for $125 shipped.
IMG_1105 (resized).jpgIMG_1107a (resized).jpgQuoted from classicgamefan:The first thing I'd do is go into the Diagnostics switch test and check all of the switches in Column 8 to make sure they aren't cross-talking (possibly a bad / missing switch diode).
Thank you I will try your suggestions. All three flippers flip with either button.
I continue to have problems with my flippers:
Press the left flipper button: Left flipper holds, right flipper chatters , sometimes holds, Upper right flipper doesn't move
Press right flipper button, all three flippers hold
When selecting something like raise or fold sometimes the left flipper button chooses correctly and sometimes it is wrong. The right button chooses correctly.
This is what I have done so far. I have used the switch test to check all of the switches. I do not get any extra closures.
I ordered and installed a new Rottendog flipper board in Maverick. I continue to have the same problems.
I reconfigured and installed the new Rottendog board in my Bay Watch. It works correctly.
Please advise any additional suggestions. Thanks
Quoted from crujones4life:Not anymore...
These sold-out last week. I see he (seller vanwagnd112) sold 103 pairs so you could ask if he was going to make more. In post 853 I show how I used a standard switch to replace the entrance optos.
I have had a problem for a long time with my flippers where either switch activated all three flippers. I bought a replacement Rottendog board and continued to have the problem. I decided to try to fix my original DE Flipper board. I replaced Q2 (Tip32C), SR1 (IRFZ34N) and Q3 (Tip36C). Now the left flipper & right upper work correctly but the right lower flipper chatters. The upper right flipper does not have an end of stroke switch; is that correct? Any thoughts on other parts I may need to replace or potential fixes.
Quoted from kvan99:Flipper chatter is usually caused by the leaf switch behind the flipper button. Some rare times the hold circuit of the coil that's on its way out may also cause it...meter it and check the solder work.
Thank you.
In earlier posts I have talked about my flipper problems. Initially my lower right flipper fluttered. I purchased a Rottendog board, and the left flipper button causes all the flippers to actuate. My son now owns a JP which has the same 3 flipper setup, so I had him try both boards. On the original DE board, the right flipper still flutters but the Rottendog board works correctly. He is now using the Rottendog board, and I am using his JP flipper board which is working correctly in my Maverick. Strange.
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:You can see in the pics the left side is dim. I reseated the cables and no change. Anyone seen this before? I'm almost certain it's a sign of failure and there's no fix.
I have good used large displays available for $220 (each) shipped. I replaced both my Maverick & Baywatch displays with Color XLEDs
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:My captive ball target isn't working, so it sucks playing Bank Heist.
It takes a strong hit to score Bank Heist. The first thing to try is to clean & wax under the captive ball and the trail to the target. If this area is dirty the captive ball won't hit the target hard enough.
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:For the straight flush, it has a 5 of diamonds mixed in with spades. The manual shows it's a 5 of diamonds and Marco has a decal sheet for sale that has diamonds as well.
The hand is a straight not a straight flush.
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:Also, is the playfield GI supposed to go completely out at end of ball? My lower GI is staying on. May have a bad SCR but wanted to check what the proper operation should be first.
My lower GI stays on at the end of a ball. (kickers & return lanes)
Quoted from kevster:Is the shooter rod on Maverick supposed to be a little, how do I describe it, sludgey? A full plunge barely gets the ball passed hole 3, sometimes doesn't even do that. It just feels off. My machine is the only Maverick I've ever played, so it's just kind of how I thought the game was designed, but now I'm wondering if the spring might need replacing.
A full plunge on my game is a little sludgy, however pulling the plunger back between 1/2 & 3/4 shoots the ball easily to the top of the playfield. Looking at my plunger it is not centered on the ball and should probably be adjusted.
Quoted from Williampinball:Yes lots of people in this area just try too patch it and it never works out have too do it the right way too be sure it works for good
Quoted from YakFish82:Has anyone here installed sideblades? I like these from Tilt Graphics but I really want to see an installed picture before ordering. An EU company has some with stacks of poker chips that I think would be a good fit too.
I think the Tilt Graphics blades look good. They did not exist when I did my game. I used Mustang blades from PinGraffix because they were the only thing close that was available at the time.
IMG_2475 (resized).JPGIMG_2476 (resized).JPGQuoted from YakFish82:How are they holding up to regular maintenance on the playfield? Seems like they would get damaged easily.
If you use side art, you need to get Interior Cabinet Game Blade Protectors to use during maintenance. https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html?Category_Code=
Quoted from YakFish82:The backbox lights are out on 1/2 the display. The larger bulbs work during gameplay, but the back lights stay off. I've looked through the electrical schematics, but the one I found is very difficult to read. Can someone point me in a direction?
Connectors CN8 on the Power Supply and J5 on the PPB Board are the GI connectors. If they are burned they should be replaced with Trifurcon pins.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider OTRChief.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/maverick-fan-thread-we-play-till-we-drop-winner-takes-all?tu=OTRChief and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Stow, OH