Munich
Hi guys - just found this thread.. I recently finished a Maverick rebuild and have a fully working model now!
(Topic ID: 79446)
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Maverick
Data East, 1994
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I have 2 data east games. A royal rumble and a maverick. Both work great and both just got a rebuild… Maverick now has an arduino motor to remove the really noisy motor and gearbox for the paddle Wheel.
Both got new power boards. Both instantly developed the dreaded hum from the speakers. For me unbearable…
I tried some of the fixes out there - and I know for the purists a sin. But I installed separate power supplies for the sound card in both today.
I now have 2 silent data east machines. Zero
I strongly recommend adding a separate power supply for the sound card. Night and day difference..
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Can you tell me more about switching out the motor for the paddle Wheel, I have seen people talk about it, but nothing specific. How long does it take to do and what parts specifically are needed and is it a relatively easy swap for a newb like me or does it take legit pinball skills?
Zero pinball skills… arduino skills and faith in metal drilling. I will take some photos. What is coo. Is you can change the speed with a dial and it is near silent.
It took a few hours.
Quoted from Gingerbloke:Zero pinball skills… arduino skills and faith in metal drilling. I will take some photos. What is coo. Is you can change the speed with a dial and it is near silent.
It took a few hours.
Quoted from Gingerbloke:Zero pinball skills… arduino skills and faith in metal drilling. I will take some photos. What is coo. Is you can change the speed with a dial and it is near silent.
It took a few hours.
And if you need the arduino code I can happily share… it is pretty simple and a few cables
Some images..
Bridge rectifier and step down Converter - you need both to go from 32v AC to 12V DC
0817C455-27E4-4D50-89B6-C371489BB965 (resized).jpeg
Inside the black box is a arduino mini and a motor driver board. AMD a dial to change the speed…
2A14A1F6-F706-4A04-88D9-C743B450CCBD (resized).jpeg4CADD574-ABD1-4ED3-9423-2ECEBAC8560F (resized).jpeg
Motor is on the original bracket - plastic pulley replaced with a metal one.
579CE4E2-83BF-4F35-A91D-AE86CDFFCC0A (resized).jpegF44EC1E3-D346-43A4-9E98-157729B50E1A (resized).jpegFC3090F7-ABF7-4093-981E-BD485AF9317D (resized).jpeg
So to change the motor - yes you need to.google!!!
You need 8 components.
1. A DC stepper motor - from 3d printers.
2. A stepper motor driver - this takes 12v and uses it to drive the motor and the controller in the black.box on the bottom of my cabinet
3. An Arduino Mini. This is a small controller that contains the programming to drive the motor - industry standard very robust thing. It runs on 5v and the stepper motor driver luckily also converts 12v to 5v to drive it. Also in the black box. You program it via USB from a laptop - very easy.
4 A rotary dial to control the speed
5. The old maverick motor is 32v AC. We need 12v DC. So you need a bridge rectifier to convert to dc - that's the big thing on the side of the cabinet in.my photos
6. And a step down converter to take this to 12v
7 cable to connect it all that's the small circuit board with a light on the side of the cabinet
8 the right size pulley for the motor
I added a black metal box to hold the Arduino and driver board...
Electric wise - this is very simple... Cost for all components - $100 tops.it looks hard but - if you can screws cables together - not hard at all.
The only complex part is drilling 4 holes in the original bracket for the new motor..
Couple of movies…
Gameplay - phone close to the Paddelboat - in reality it’s almost inaudible as a hum:
And I quickly did a movie of turning the dial to change the speed - it appears slow but it was flying… too fast to pick up the ball down to snail pace…
Quoted from Sirgubster9:WOW this is amazing but wow also very intimidating. My goal is to copy you here, but im scared and I lack time, but once I get over the fear and my kids start to entertain themselves I am all over this. thank you so much for the in depth pics and info!!!!
Take your time - shout or PM me if you get stuck!
3 weeks later
Quoted from DanMarino:The display was cutting in and out so I put on a new connector for the 2 wire one that was loose. The connection is tight now and the display isn’t going off any more. Seems fixed for now. The game is definitely getting more fun the more I play it.
Hi Dan - sounds like you have a machine that hasn’t been touched for a long while.
I would recommend spend 20 mins and re-seat all of the connectors in the backbox - just unplug check the connectors and sockets and plug back in - you will probably find a few more bad ones and this will stop you getting frustrated over the next weeks as you play and vibrated the boards!
I also like the game - but damn, it’s hard…
2 months later
Quoted from crujones4life:Looking for a NOS pair of optos for the Lauren Belle entrance on Maverick. I can't find them in stock anywhere (in US). Thanks!
[quoted image]
I don’t know if this helps but I read in a thread about people converting from opto‘s to a switch?
The only other option is trying to solder new optos to your old board?
I can try to find the thread again if it helps?
Quoted from Gingerbloke:I don’t know if this helps but I read in a thread about people converting from opto‘s to a switch?
The only other option is trying to solder new optos to your old board?
I can try to find the thread again if it helps?
Ignore me - I see both of my great ideas were already posted by faster better contacts!!
6 months later
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:Thanks, it's playing rough right now but it's still actually fun. I think it will be great when finished. So here's a couple things I've never seen, however I've also never owned a large DMD game. You can see in the pics the left side is dim. I reseated the cables and no change. Anyone seen this before? I'm almost certain it's a sign of failure and there's no fix. Also, there's some strange dust on the board. It seems something has failed or is in the process of dying.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The board is fine, just clean it - that spot gets pretty hot and that is years of dust being pilled across by convection.
The DMD is degassing - leave it and see if it Get’s better if it is left on and has regular use. If not - they are hard to find ago go the upgrade route to Pinled or similar - not cheap so I would live with the dim screen.
Summary - check and fxt the rest, these 2 are not an issue.
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