I might get crickets on this, but I really can't say enough good things about this machine. It has to be the hardest machine to restart a mode on, all the modes are fun, different, and interesting, and have large payoffs, and the look, music and sounds have I believe the most charm found in pinball.

It's different as most of the play is done between the modes, trying to start a mode, in completing banks of drop targets, depending on what random hand is selected (full house even combining two other hands).

Some people talk about the paddle wheel slowing gameplay down, but there are equally long wait times in many top machines, such as the Otto shot in TSPP.

Such an enjoyable machine!

I don't know, I just played a game and on Lauren Belle, hit it 6 times, 210m in points, and the bonus for each of extra ball, infinite discard, laser kick, special lit, and an additional 50m and 20x bonus, which is a pretty good mode grab! I also did Angel's Revenge for 90m. Coops Cash is cool as well, and can be huge, as you can make that mode unlimited, as the timer resets if you hit all four shots and then the moving lit shot to cash out and reset the timer. The captive ball mode, as you mentioned, also starts at 100m, and grows a 100m per shot, but is hard.

You are right in winning a lot of straight hands, and raising each time gets big, but those shots are all risky, where most of the mode shots, other than the captive ball are all safe shots if you make them. I think the scoring is actually pretty good and balanced when you fully understand the rules, and the risk in going for drop targets opposed to the mode/jackpot shots.

Not to mention all the possibilities in the skill shot, and the mini mod super skill shot. I have never completed that, or been to the final.

So, as I start this thread, I just played a game and finally got to the Poker Final! I didn't win it, but finished with 4.6B, and got to put my initials on the backs of all the cards that come up on screen now like I read about. Ironic day, maybe I should start a fan thread about TSPP now so I can finish that too

Whaaa? I'll hold two balls on the right, and hit the ramps over and over for no risk points, not worth going for? Even the captive for the super jackpot can be hit with a rebound from the left side. I don't know, less points, but less risk builds pretty fast in this game.

I have heard of that, but not sure which motor it is that does this. There are times where you can have two balls enter the wheel entrance area at the same time, and jam this, I had this happen once to me the other day. I would be worried with a faster speed that might equate to breakage. I'm actually fine with the speed.

I did this exact thing. Had MB and ACDC prem coming in, had to make some room, sold this and three others, this one I regretted the most. Thankfully (awful to say), it developed issues at my friend's place who bought it. I couldn't figure it out when going over there, so I offered to buy it back. He didn't want to at first, but after a while found something else he wanted, so I got it back. Took me a bit, but fixed it, and cannot wait to get around to it again in the lineup.

Ahh, but if you get the 4 ball skill shot, you can then up the jackpots to 2x or 3x, that is what I always shoot for, and it's not to tough to get. Then the JP's get much higher.

That doesn't sound right at all... There is a rubber ring/belt to the wheel from the motor, and a large gear/round plastic wheel. When I shopped mine, I took all this apart, the paddle wheel, this gear, cleaned everything, and synthetic lubed where the gear attaches, and I believed I noticed a difference in the speed slightly after.

It could be your gear box underneath is just gummed up, but this might be worth a try. Maybe the rubber ring needs replacing.

Mine is I'm guessing 4-5 seconds from when it enters until it's spit out into the boat to lock. This depends on if the ball enters the wheel are when an opening is there, or if it has to turn a bit for the next opening to come around.

To avoid overlap, I have posted a big post to your prob on your thread, to keep that issue in that one spot for others down the road, as this paddlewheel is the most problematic thing in this machine.

For anyone else, the thread is:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/maverick-paddle-wheel-triggers-ball-search

I like it. I don't mind waiting. I think the complaining about it from some, and the reason they sold the machine or won't buy it because of this is a little over the top. I mean 4-5 seconds - man, first world problems huh?

The game is so good in my opinion having to spend a $1,000 to keep it going would not phase me, I kid you not. I mean, I would prefer not too, but if the display goes tomorrow, no regrets, and I would just buy another. Luckily, if you were following the other threads on the large colour DMD option via the raspberry mini computer board, there appear to be cheaper options now anyway, still costly, but options.

I think he's talking about the 5v connector to the DMD board. I always, on any DE to Stern, replace this connector with a molex and trifurcons and reflow the headers. Poor design.

That's a decent idea I had not thought of. Even slightly larger, if it would fit, might increase the speed slight enough that works. I don't know... then again, with all the stuff I have to get done, would it really be worth the work, meh. I'm with you, not important enough to care about.

LOL!

I'm usually drinking beer when playing, so this literally does work perfectly. If I ever buy a beer helmet, maybe only then will I get annoyed with the slow paddlewheel haha

I wasn't even aware there were two versions... Is there any physical differences or stickers, or just rom versions for the display?

I have the Sonic displays, and the actors. Mine has always done a strange thing after James Garner appears, right after the flashers go off, and the display lights solid for a second, goes out, and comes back on in a bit. It does not reboot, and nothing in the attract mode changes.

I've never been concerned, as it doesn't hurt anything else, only after Garner is on. I figured it might be a rom bug, and was going to update it the next time I have a rom order.

The protos were all widebodies too, something I bet most don't know about. Anyone here have a proto widebody by chance? Not sure if this saw any early production ones with widebodies, but even IPBD has only photos of blank WB PF's,and none of the actual machine.

I think they all had the yellow poker chip DE knob. I believe you can still buy other colours at BAA.

As for the ramps, if you want the factory type rivets, you have to get the good rivet clamp, with the proper ends. It's pricey. Pinbits sells a kit that doesn't need the clamp, but I have heard it doesn't stand up for high vibration areas.

I have mirror blades on almost all my machines. I started the use of using larger construction paper folded over the rails of the cab, inserted between the blades (or inside of cab) and the PF. Then when you raise the PF up or forward, depending on the game, the construction paper works as a barrier, and despite some heavy rubbing on some machines, no marks on the blades, which scratch very easy.

As for the rear left spotlights, I used old style frosted cool whites. They can be looked at without being blinding, and still light that rear area nicely.

My buddy did some nice LAH ones for me, I asked him for some Mav ones, but he's off the pinball bandwagon now, so not sure when I'll see them. Should be a lot of material out there for some nice ones.

This is the only machine I don't have custom ones for.

Nice score. I just got to the Poker Championship (wizard mode) for the second time last night, posted 4.6B. Crazy MB, as it gives you unlimited ball save for a time, based on the targets you hit, but there is no auto plunger, so you have to keep manually plunging while playing to get another and another. I had heard of this before, and it's cool, as it's a form of distraction you have to time right.

BTW, another friend of mine made some sweet ass cards! I'll post a photo of them. He's an artist and is making them for all my machines, and they are really nice.

All in all, I just enjoy this machine so much coming around to it each time. I can find little to fault it on. I've got 28 machines, and most of the 'A' listers, and this might even break my top 7 or all time I think. The rules, when understood, are really well done.

Just to expand on this, for anyone that doesn't see the value in the jackpots, with 4 ball going, and 3x multiplier on, last game I was hitting jackpots for the first three (they go three ramps, then a super for the captive, then repeat) at around 40-60 mil, and the super at above 290M!

Big points in there boys! Hold on the right, rip the ramps, then fire the missles towards the VUK, hope for a rebound against the post to the left of the center set of drops to rebound into the captive.

Again, love everything about this machine!

I just updated some of my ratings, and a year or more down the road, many lose a few points I find when you get to know the game like the back of your hand, and realize some of the subtle downfalls and tired of them. I just updated my rating for Maverick and it went up...

I find it hard to fault this machine in almost any category other than "toys and gimmicks" but I even give it a good there as it has 17 drop targets, two of which drop for a roll over skill, and expose the hard to hit captive ball.

I'm not saying it's number two for me, but this and TAF are the only machines I can come around to every time with a smile on my face, and never get mad playing it.

He's aurium who now posts cards he makes. This is the link to the cards for Mav:

http://www.pinballcards.com/Pinball-Cards/Maverick

Remember to donate!

Now with the colour DIY DMD option, it shouldn't be an problem. My buddy is figuring this out for a bunch of his machines, so I'm hoping to implement one in this soon, and play around with the colours.

It's just such a fun machine. I've still only made it to the Poker Championship three times, and I'm yet to win it - hard machine which is good.

Keep in mind popular machines had an easy to obtain MB, to keep non-pinheads shovelling in quarters. It's not as bad as other DE's, as they had a guaranteed MB on the start of the third ball, which in home use is super annoying, as is the case with your TFTC. At least Mav doesn't have that.

Besides, loading up the 4 ball MB, and 3x jackpots isn't real easy, and cashing out that super after the first three is hard too, but always fun, as it requires a lot of rebounds up below the VUK.

You're doing it wrong Once it's ready, start launching balls at the left side of the 3 bank of drop targets, or post, once they are down. They rebound to the left, and hit it. Just fire them all towards the vuk basically too.

Also, don't the balls on your machine coming out of the bottom of the pops fall to the flipper? Mind you, it's not exact by any means, and still feeds the flipper on different angles each time, but they hit the flipper about 70% on my machine.

Just saw this, congrats. You even have the topper, something mine is without still.

I've never noticed that before, I'll have to check it out too. I'm guessing they were thinking about a post locking system there too maybe.

Didn't I already clarify that for you in another thread?

Hmm I looked back, and thought for sure it was you, but maybe another person. Anyway, there is a plastic you are missing below that clear one, that runs beside the riverboat to the left. The hole in the top of the clear is used for a hex post that runs down to the PF plastic that is missing, for support I assume.

Lesmanley stated somewhere he has a lot of extra plastics. Maybe look close at the photos on IBPD and see what you are missing, and what can be had. If you get it, I can measure the post height for it so you can order one.

Speaking of which, anyone have an extra topper by chance?

Thankfully, it doesn't have the dreaded third ball automatic MB that most DE's have... I wish someone would change that in a rom update for all of them.

How are those drops looking? Usually there are a few bad ones. I replaced all of them on mine, but I do that will all games.

Does anyone here hate super laser kicker as much as me? Any other game it would be god sent, but with the best vid mode out there, I actually want to have to relight it as mucch as possible.

What? Down the right outlane, it rolls to the left outlane and initiates the kicker? No, I've never seen that on Mav, but I had it happen a few times on the couple T2's I have had over the years.

6 months ago you could buy the toppers everywhere for like $25-$35, now they are out everywhere grr, I should have grabbed one.

Anyone got an extra they could sell me?

I have F14, but I can't recall that happening on that machine, or on any other machine with a kicker that I have had (HS, LAH).

Yours cuts off? Mine never does. I hear those complete every time.

I just posted this in another thread, but thought I would here as well, as it really sums up my feelings still for this machine. I am never unhappy playing Mav, never had a ho hum experience with it, and always look forward to coming around to it. There are few games I thoroughly enjoy playing as much as Mav.

I am so happy to have this machine. Everything about it is fun, and I never even find myself getting pissed when I have a bad day at it.

Funny how I got this machine too. There is/was a guy that flipped a lot of machines, got to ones posted on the ads before everyone else, and would usually just flip them for the going rate with little work. Everyone near me in another forum went off on him for this machine, as it was posted for like $400 or something when he picked it up. He noted it was plug and play, someone else bought it, but had issues with the VUK and returned it to the guy, and bitched him out publicly, maybe rightfully so.

I just wanted it. I could care less what he bought it for or if it was fully working, if he overpaid for $5k or got it for $50, I was willing to pay going rate for the condition, did that, took me all of 30 minutes to get the issues worked out, and shopped it to the bare PF after this.

I actually sold it during a purge phase when I had over bought, pretty much talked into it by another pinhead I was discussing my situation with, as he never really played Mav, but was disgusted by the thought of it. I took this advice and sold it to a buddy. Got it there, never worked right, non-stop VUK/Lauren Bell horns, issues with locked balls popping out, some other really strange issues. I told my friend I would buy it back, but he wanted it, so over the course of a few months when I would pop over I tried to work out the issues, but never could. Eventually he was ready to get another machine, and asked if I wanted it back, which I said yes to. Got it home, again, figured out the issues immediately (as if it wasn't happy anywhere else...) and since then my love for this machine has only gone up and up.

It will truly be one of the last few to go if it ever reaches that.

Also, a while back I replaced my worn out shooter with a new NOS one online. Ebay sells these for like $20, which is a no brainer. This is not just the rod, it's the entire assembly, so you have a backup DE housing as well if another machine is in need. Great deal.

BTW - anyone got an extra topper by chance?

Awesome dude, thanks!

There are two ribbon cables, the one to the DMD controller, and the small one from the DMD controller to the actual DMD. Have you done this with both?

Glad to see this thread still kicking. One day, one day this rule set will get the appreciation it deserves. You all know now how hard it is getting to the championship, and how much you have to take care in winning hands and not losing, and raising to get modes started faster…. and that’s just to START the modes.

I still think it is one of the best rule sets in pinball. Again, I have around 30 machines, 8 of the top rated 10, a lot of so called A listers, and this rule set is easily one of the best ever done, I'm sure of this. Put that together with the 17 drops, and how they are used - pure genius.

Ahh it takes 4, that's the chips under the mode lights, and this is why you always try to raise and never lose a hand, or fold if you are low on discards, and it's too risky to try to win.

It takes 4 hands won to start, but if you raise for all, this gives you another chip if you win a hand, and thus allows you to start in two hands.

I play all modes, there are 60-100m in each on averge. Also the multi can be huge, always try to get 4 ball and 3x to start, and you are laughing.

In fact guys, just to further the above, the skill shot has NEVER been more important in pinball. As you know, you can start a mode as one of the three options (usually lock ball, start mode, and super pops – not to mention the super skill dropping to the upper flipper to start a whole separate timed min mode – ummmm AWESOME!!), but I bet few you of you realize how important timing is on this.

ALWAYS try to start the mode right away. You have to clear all the skill shot bonuses before a new round will start, and a new shot at a mode start. If you start a mode right away, after it is done, and while you are playing away at winning hands, you lose balls and get extra ones, and work aware at the other skill shots to hopefully cycle back to another attempt at a mode start off the skill, usually two is the most you can get in any game, but given you need 5 modes to start before the poker final, 2 out of 5 free starts is HUGE.

If you don’t get the mode start off the skill for example, be careful in your selections after. If you have say won 3 out of 4 chips from hands, and then lose you ball, and have a skill shot, you don’t want to get the mode start. If you do, you start a mode, and it resets your chips. Might as well shoot for another skill shot to further reduce the three needed to rest those, and go for another win of hands for the 4th chip, then cash the skill shot mode start in later when chips are low.

Not sure if that was too confusing, but you can really reduce your journey to the final by figuring out when to cash the mode start in skill shots and when not to and eliminate another. Missing the skill shot altogether is a big loss once you see how advantageous this is.

Again, genius rules set, Lyman.

Nice man!

Given my rule explanations a couple days ago, I'm claiming partial responsibility

Tough final though eh? I don't belive I have beaten it yet.

Post #80, please donate though, even a little helps him get others done.

Look beside the time of your last post, that reads post #157. No go back to the second page I believe and look for post #80

If it's not ribbon cable related and not roms, there is likely something failing on the DMD controller. It might be best to see if you can find someone close that has one that you can swap to test. It could be the DMD, but I would be really trying to swap and isolate the issue at this point.

If it is the DMD, time to go colour LCD DIY cost wise. If it’s in the DMD controller, I can’t help you at all there, that is the one board I have never been able to repair successfully.

They usually get "cleaned" by removing and reinserting. This was Clay's recommendation, unlike IDC or Molex, which technically have a life span for pulls. With the gold plated ribbon headers, removing and reseating clears off the oxidization.

While I'm sure some people have replaced them, I personally have never come across an issue with the headers on these, or any cracked solder pads.

Again, and really from the start once a couple easy things are tried and don’t help, it’s really useful to be able to swap out stuff from another known working game to isolate the board/area and go from there. If you know anyone around you with a DE, you can at least test the controller board by swapping display roms.

Rob Anthony (borygard) here is good with these boards.

I'm a huge LED fan, have them on all my machines, but for this translite and IJ, I find brown just doesn't seem to work as nice with any LED as with incandescent. I would like to LED them both, but just haven't been happy with the brown areas.

And it's not likely that a brown LED will pop up anytime soon

I used a lot of cool whites in this game, not much colour. I did the modes in colours, but not much else. I don't like yellow and orange, and don't use them much, as they are so dim. I went with cools in the lane guides up top.

I'm thinking of changing the lights for the right ramp in the sign, as they are red and orange, and whether you use regular bulbs and condoms, or frosted LED, the red and orange together just don't seem enough apart in colour.

I have, but the 180 degree ones, as with anything else, given cools are already twice as bright as any other colour in, I had to use the dimmest ones I could in there.

This is a common issue on DE's, and is a result of a 4404(? - I likely have this number wrong, looks like a pre-driver transistor) transistor for the columns. Almost every column issue I have ever dealt with on DE's is a result of this.

For column/row issues, I start with checking when it first connects in daisy chain to the PF, as if there is an issue there, as with lights, you'll see it all the way down, but otherwise confirm which transistor does this column, and check with a DMM. <

blockquote cite="#2047399">I never knew there was only one. Mine broke off and I cheated and split a plastic straw and put it around the metal posts...nice and thin and way easier to hit that ball!

I've thought of removing the one, but I thought the hole would be too big to stop the ball from coming out possibly on hard hits.

I've said it before, but the key to hitting this when the ball is at the lower flippers is trying to bank it off the left post or drop target (if up) of the center bank. You get way more chances, and in MB, once going for the super there, just start launching balls in that area, and you are bound to hit it.

Trying to set that shot up from the upper is next to impossible, and even when it trickles down to there perfectly, it's still a crap shoot.

There is sludge in the system somewhere. I always remove and replace, or at best clean all drops so they are snappy.

Mine had 1 or 2 broken, but I bought all new with new decals and cleaned the mechs.

It's likely not even the right belt/ring. Given none of us appear to have seen that before tells me that.

I had oddball belts used on my F14 beacons when I got it. They slipped here and there as well, but hey, someone figured out something to make it work in a pinch, and likely long before all the resources we have now, so hats off to doing something!

If you were to take apart my washing machine, and knew what you were doing, you would scratch your head at the middle column where the fabric softener goes. The rubber ring in there deteriorated, and what did I, a pinball person, use to rectify?!

So yeah, my washer has a slingshot rubber ring now - and working just fine!

I tried the reed switch, I could not make it work, it was too sensitive and went off for anything. I frickin’ padded that thing, did everything I could, but the read would go off with just nearby vibration.

I later spoke to someone who had been through a few, and he confirmed the opto is the best method, and it just needed reflowing like most, as the right side is in a very high vibration area. I did this, and really secured both mini boards well but with some padding to cut the vibration, made sure there was no chance off vibrating out of line of each other, and never had another issue back there again.

If updates start happening for all games, I have often thought that this game should have an auto plunger as well as manual shooter, and allow for a held ball in the riverboat, as with many Ritchie games (STTNG, NF).

With this, one ball is in the boat to start. Any further shots to the boat for locks releases like STTNG and NF to speed up the play (or ass with the sword lock in LOTR). After a MB, the game could load a ball back in there with the auto plunger after the ball ends and the next begins.

I don’t mind the delay, but it gets a little weird I find when two balls are locked, without the third lock being enabled, and you someone get a ball into the boat. It just doesn’t seem to know where the ball is quick enough.

$150?!?!

Not long ago they were all over the online stores, MAD, BAA, all for around $30... I should have grabbed one then.

Man, for $1 you can make your own and still have 47 cards left over to boot!

There are two drop targets, there are I believe 17 in total, 15 are regular style, and two are roll over style for the captive ball. I replaced all mine when I got it and bought new decals. Large drop target games need to be snappy, same with WPT.

By design, there is only supposed to be one black rubber on the rear post of the captive ball. I still find it anything but easy.

I've wrote in this thread about the captive ball before. Again, from the lowers, especially in MB when going for the super, just hold and launch balls towards the left side of the 3 bank. It happens more than you might think.

The problem with the upper shot is that the ball just doesn't come down a nice path down the right orbit guide, like in say STTNG or TZ, it can wobble around, and gets spit out of the pops in a strange way. I have thought about ordering and installing somehow a little mini one way gate like the one used on Spiderman for the upper flippers. If possible, it would keep the ball over against the right orbit guide, and make shots more consistent. I'll post back when I get to it and see if I can rig it up.

Either way, across a PF for a captive ball is a hard shot, but keep in mind the code is good, in that for the mode that uses it, and the super, it's possible and comes with a lot of points for doing it.

I still believe this machine has one of the best rulesets in pinball, completely undiscovered, even by many that own it. Many that do own it still really don't understand how many aspects work.

Ahh I misread. I recall when shopping that I thought the ball would actually come out then without it, as I considered it when I was having troubles finding a way to hit it early on.

I kinda agree, but I use it to hit the lower left drops, upper left drops, and even the pair of standups for the ramp, so for me it has more uses depending on what's going on than what I would have thought.

Usually I prefer upper flippers have shots that can only be reached by the upper flipper, however, on this game I'm glad that's not the case, as it would be near impossible to have any sort of consistency to the captive ball.

yup!

Nope!

http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

See if you know someone that has one. I have a bud that does, and man, have I been enjoying that!

Otherwise there is a pressless rivets from pinbits, but I have heard they don't hold great, and are no good for ramps. The through hole cheap rivets are another option.

I can't recall, but I don't think so. It's like 4 screws to take out a bank, and not much more to swap them all. You'll figure it out.

I got mine from the below, and they have held up great, and appear to be very good quality:

http://www.arcadeoverlays.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxesfitemdetail.aspx?sfid=17232&c=381730&i=10958840

With DE/Segas prior to them deciding to make GI accessible from below, you change them all out when you first shop it, and you use LEDs.

I've shopped countless games, multiples of many. When I tear a PF apart, I take things off one at a time, and lay it out in order. If something can't come off because of something else, then I move to that, then back to the other thing, so in the end I have a line of parts that in reverse, HAS to go on easy peasy - and this is how it always works.

The exception was Maverick and those VUK plastics. Something about the post, and the way they sat in there or something, I recall it taking me an hour or so as something about them was so funky.

Arg, had a switch issue, had to take apart all the vuk crap around it (opto wire boke $%&$%&#), and I cracked the u shaped blue plastic around the vuk...

Anyone have an extra they could sell me?

It's the EOS that does that or the flipper button switch? I would think those choices would be dependant on the flipper button switches.

Don't ever sell, trust me, explore the rules discussed in this thread, it is one of the best machines ever made. Easily a fav over other highly rated ones I have such as MB, CV, TOM, SM and many others.

Stern optos are very narrow in beam. Use a white piece of paper and put between the beam at the receiver side (this is evident when you put it on either side), and make sure the beam of light is actually meeting up with the receiver side. Stern/sega optos are difficult this way, and fall out of alignment.

Take out the shooter rod, clean it well. I use a pipe cleaner and novus 2 to get into the metal tube for the shooter and clean that. If you haven't done that, you will notice a big difference after.

After I reflowed the board, and soldered the wires directly to the opto boards instead of the original (stupid) IDC connectors there (vibration and those connectors equals trouble quick), I have yet to have another issue.

Nice, I may have to do this.

The lit boat looks great, what did you use to light it up, looks pretty even, photo with the top off?

lol nice. I wasn't expecting the easy strip for some reason. I have a few of these kicking around too, one will be going on here for sure.

Thanks for the stand up images as well, I had often thought about that, as it looks out of place with the drops.

Do the same as you should for mirror blades, construction paper buffers when lifting pf.

Honestly, I think mirror blades are better for sides in every machine. Makes the pf seem wider, and increases the light reflecting.

This happens when the switch arm is activated by the ball too soon. You will have to adjust so that the ball travels slightly further towards the kicker before the switch closes. This is not a setting.

For this, I use a white piece of paper, cut small. You can hold this in front of the beam for the receiver (it will become evident which one is the receiver), and see the narrow beam. Press this up against the receiver opto, and you can see where the beam is out. Sega/Stern optos are very narror in width, and have to be adjusted perfectly. As you said, I have just bent the LED up or down to aling, but do not do this left or right if needed. Chech the entrance for the wheel as well while doing this, as this is another common issue.

Not sure, but do the above which I noted to make sure everything is within perfect alignment, and see if that changes anything.

People recommend a reed switch for the lauren belle. I tried this, and it was too sensitive, and went off with any vibration.

That opto pairing needs to be removed, IDC connector removed, and wires soldered to the header pins. Then it needs to be firmly secured back where they go, and then adjust the beam.

It’s a pain to get at and deal with, which is one of the main things that has held this machine back.

It's the opto, I'm sure of it. I went through the exact same issue at one time.

This, plus I forgot to add reflow the actual opto LEDs on the boards.

Congrats. Again, the other thing I recommend is directly soldering the wires from the connector that attaches to these boards directly to the headers. The vibration from the nearby VUK plays havoc with them.

Usually if you set special to extra ball.

If this worked before, I'm assuming your slope is fine, as if there isn't enough of that, that system doesn't work right.

I would check the coil wire lugs for good connections, and the little wires going into the coil. If there is a weak or intermittent connection, the vibration from the initial pull may disconnect the voltage, and you may not be getting a full pull down on the plunger.

I don't understand your question. By magnet, are you referring to the reed switch replacement idea for the opto at the paddle wheel entrance?

You win a chip for winning a hand. If you raise, you are doubling your chips won if you win the hand. In addition to the points described by Wayout, the same idea applies to chips, if you fold, you stay at the same chips, if you lose a hand, you go back to 0. You need 5 chips (the 4 at the bottom, and the flashing mode chip) to start a mode. If you haven't read this whole thread, do that, as I have explained the skill shots before, and the mega importance of hitting the different shots at the right time, and why never missing a skill is big as well. Basically, you don't want to start a mode via skill shot when you have worked to get 4 chips, and you don't want to pick another skill shot with a mode being available with no chips.

Learn the multiball rules as well, as it is so important to it the middle skill shot for adding the 4 ball, and then getting 3x multiplier for the jackpots.

I still believe this machine has some of the best rules in pinball. Everything is important, every flailing only hurts you, even without draining, it's a thinking man's machine for sure.

haha except for the "every flailing" part... always flailing maybe?.... I need to proof more before hitting send.