Maverick
Data East, 1994Quoted from crujones4life:There should only be one. Mine has none however. Hard enough to hit with none.
I never knew there was only one. Mine broke off and I cheated and split a plastic straw and put it around the metal posts...nice and thin and way easier to hit that ball!
Quoted from the4horse:I never knew there was only one. Mine broke off and I cheated and split a plastic straw and put it around the metal posts...nice and thin and way easier to hit that ball!
Good to know! I thought I was just that bad...
Finished shopping and it looks great. Of course now I have an entire switch column out. Makes no sense. It's the column with the 5 ball trough switches. Green red wire. I get continuity from all switches in the colmn Has to be on board connector? Any other reason I would lose this colmn. I did not touch any switches in this column and it was working perfect. I have to say the wiring under pf is very organized and tightly secured. Any ideas ?
Gotta question. I have my replay awards set at 750,000 and 1,500,000. The replay award is set for an extra ball. Today when I played I noticed something I have never seen before in attract mode. After most recent score is displayed the screen shows "extra ball awarded at 1,150,000" ... I have never seen this before. Also, could not find an adjustment for it. Is this a factory default that can't be changed or what?
PS. This was the first game I played after scoring 2.1 billion + couple nights ago...if for some reason that may make a difference.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Finished shopping and it looks great. Of course now I have an entire switch column out. Makes no sense. It's the column with the 5 ball trough switches. Green red wire. I get continuity from all switches in the colmn Has to be on board connector? Any other reason I would lose this colmn. I did not touch any switches in this column and it was working perfect. I have to say the wiring under pf is very organized and tightly secured. Any ideas ?
Start by checking at the connector for the column in the head make sure you didn't pull a wire up there. Check the board itself to make sure the column in question is operational with the direct jump method. If all is fine there, you'll know for certain there's something you overlooked with the playfield wiring.
Quoted from wayout440:Start by checking at the connector for the column in the head make sure you didn't pull a wire up there. Check the board itself to make sure the column in question is operational with the direct jump method. If all is fine there, you'll know for certain there's something you overlooked with the playfield wiring.
thanks..hate entire column switch errors. easy when its just one
Quoted from billsfanmd:Finished shopping and it looks great. Of course now I have an entire switch column out. Makes no sense. It's the column with the 5 ball trough switches. Green red wire. I get continuity from all switches in the colmn Has to be on board connector? Any other reason I would lose this colmn. I did not touch any switches in this column and it was working perfect. I have to say the wiring under pf is very organized and tightly secured. Any ideas ?
This is a common issue on DE's, and is a result of a 4404(? - I likely have this number wrong, looks like a pre-driver transistor) transistor for the columns. Almost every column issue I have ever dealt with on DE's is a result of this.
For column/row issues, I start with checking when it first connects in daisy chain to the PF, as if there is an issue there, as with lights, you'll see it all the way down, but otherwise confirm which transistor does this column, and check with a DMM. <
blockquote cite="#2047399">I never knew there was only one. Mine broke off and I cheated and split a plastic straw and put it around the metal posts...nice and thin and way easier to hit that ball!
I've thought of removing the one, but I thought the hole would be too big to stop the ball from coming out possibly on hard hits.
I've said it before, but the key to hitting this when the ball is at the lower flippers is trying to bank it off the left post or drop target (if up) of the center bank. You get way more chances, and in MB, once going for the super there, just start launching balls in that area, and you are bound to hit it.
Trying to set that shot up from the upper is next to impossible, and even when it trickles down to there perfectly, it's still a crap shoot.
thanks for the replies...
Other issue is a couple of the drop targets seem to not quite drop all the way down.Sometimes its a tired spring but this seems like maybe its rubbing on something like the pf edge. is there a drop target adjustment? Usually its obvious when I look closer at a drop target issue but wanted to see if there was any adjustment for them.
Quoted from billsfanmd:thanks for the replies...
Other issue is a couple of the drop targets seem to not quite drop all the way down.Sometimes its a tired spring but this seems like maybe its rubbing on something like the pf edge. is there a drop target adjustment? Usually its obvious when I look closer at a drop target issue but wanted to see if there was any adjustment for them.
There is sludge in the system somewhere. I always remove and replace, or at best clean all drops so they are snappy.
Mine had 1 or 2 broken, but I bought all new with new decals and cleaned the mechs.
after switch error I think last thing I need to tackle is the paddle wheel. Seems to work great until a ball enters paddle wheel and it seems to not have enough ummhhh to get it up and around to wireform. I dont see the black band slipping. Is this a weak motor or something else underneath going on?
good news is switch prob is def under pf....switch test on board using test leads all switches work perfect.
Next Ill cont check from switches to connectors.
For the paddleboat...looks like my motor is strong but maybe the black rubber band is slipping as soon as the ball enters it with the extra weight. This a common issue if the band is worn out/ like an old fan belt 
Where can I buy this ..found at marco....thanks
ok Ill try and make this clear...as soon as I enter switch test mode I get a constant dong sound and pinball missing on the dmd....these are all in column 2 switches. After more reseatch I am missing all of column 1 as well...no start button, slam tilt, extra ball...What are the chances 2 columns have wiring issue....
The transistors that control these are little black ones I have never messed with....I did the jumper test and I was able to get the correct switch to trip each time usign test lead...
The owner told me more info that ball 5 would go on forever and the game would keep launching a ball and say ball save.
Any ideas.This may be a job where I need to send board out?
Quoted from crujones4life:Gotta question. I have my replay awards set at 750,000 and 1,500,000. The replay award is set for an extra ball. Today when I played I noticed something I have never seen before in attract mode. After most recent score is displayed the screen shows "extra ball awarded at 1,150,000" ... I have never seen this before. Also, could not find an adjustment for it. Is this a factory default that can't be changed or what?
PS. This was the first game I played after scoring 2.1 billion + couple nights ago...if for some reason that may make a difference.
If anyone could check their Maverick for me and report back it would really ease my OCD...lol.
need to start from scratch. Can anyone do a quick switch test...when you press any switch should the DMD read:it CHECK SWITCH on top and list the switch number location and colors? Just seeing if the check switch message is normal....I am dealing with the first 2 columns out completely in switch test but working when you do the active switch test. Somehow these tests must work differently.
Thanks for any help.
I think I remember the infinite ball save as being a software bug. One of the technical bulletins discussed it. May not be the same issue. Will try to look for you.
Thanks Pinballtiger when you get a game from a friend with no history and issues its hard to sort out.. Ball 5 kept saying ball save
Quoted from wayout440:Adj 1 set to Fixed or Manual - I would assume this to be set to Fixed.
Adj 3 set replay levels to 2?
Not at my game so I can't tell more than that, just looking at the manual.
* Bump for the pinhead with OCD *
LOL. Thanks man. I have adjustment 3 set to 2 replay levels...750,000,000 and 1,500,000,000. Replay award is extra ball. I just don't know where this random extra ball award at 1,150,000,000 came from and I want to turn it off.
Adjustment 1 says fixed/manual and right below is says manual 10%...No idea what that means. I need a copy of the manual. Guess I'll download it. I hate reading manuals online...lol.
Quoted from crujones4life:Adjustment 1 says fixed/manual and right below is says manual 10%...No idea what that means.
Right there ^ ....you need to adjust #1 down from the 10% to 0% and the display should read "fixed" (The 10% that you have it set to is allowing the games computer to calculate the new replay score, Pg 19 in the manual)
Quoted from wayout440:Right there ^ ....you need to adjust #1 down from the 10% to 0% and the display should read "fixed" (The 10% that you have it set to is allowing the games computer to calculate the new replay score, Pg 19 in the manual)
Awesome! Thanks for the help!
switches fixed....paddle wheel seems to slip when weight of ball in it. Ordered new belt. Easy to swap? Looks like paddle wheel lowers under pf.
Quoted from billsfanmd:switches fixed....paddle wheel seems to slip when weight of ball in it. Ordered new belt. Easy to swap? Looks like paddle wheel lowers under pf.
You could try first to clean it with windex or some other product and then use belt conditioner that you can get at an auto parts store.
I had a Hurricane with a slipping belt and that fixed it.
Quoted from billsfanmd:paddle wheel seems to slip when weight of ball in it. Ordered new belt. Easy to swap? Looks like paddle wheel lowers under pf.
Does it slip all the time or just a slight hesitation when the ball is picked up? Mine has new motor and belt & still hesitates slightly when the ball is picked up.
Yes, the paddle wheel section is easy to remove under the playfield.
Quoted from the4horse:Does it slip all the time or just a slight hesitation when the ball is picked up? Mine has new motor and belt & still hesitates slightly when the ball is picked up.
Yes, the paddle wheel section is easy to remove under the playfield.
It works perfect until ball enters then it starts to slow or stop. def acts like slipping belt. Shopping for a friend so did belt first. Then I'll replace motor if needed. It's loud but seems to work perfect
Thanks for help
It's likely not even the right belt/ring. Given none of us appear to have seen that before tells me that.
I had oddball belts used on my F14 beacons when I got it. They slipped here and there as well, but hey, someone figured out something to make it work in a pinch, and likely long before all the resources we have now, so hats off to doing something!
If you were to take apart my washing machine, and knew what you were doing, you would scratch your head at the middle column where the fabric softener goes. The rubber ring in there deteriorated, and what did I, a pinball person, use to rectify?!
So yeah, my washer has a slingshot rubber ring now - and working just fine!
Quoted from wayout440:Mine doesn't hesitate at all when the ball enters. My friends Cyclone's ferris would stutter when the weight of the ball hit it, though.
Yeah, that's exactly what mine would do...'stutter' is a better way to describe it rather than 'hesitate'.
noticed that some photos of the 3 drops have a joker on them. Mine does not but it calls out the correct card. whats the deal?
Quoted from dementedwarlok:noticed that some photos of the 3 drops have a joker on them. Mine does not but it calls out the correct card. whats the deal?
The decal sets came with a couple "wild card" joker stickers. That way you could use it to replace any broken drop target and not have to have the correct card number and suit.
Quoted from LesManley:The decal sets came with a couple "wild card" joker stickers. That way you could use it to replace any broken drop target and not have to have the correct card number and suit.
cool jokers wild
Quoted from billsfanmd:New belt solved issue. Def a tighter fit. Game is now 100 %
Excellent.
I started a separate thread, but figured I would ask here as well
Working on my Maverick and just fixed the paddle wheel entry opto, is it supposed to have a post before the paddle wheel in the hole that is behind the wheel entry? the one shown here:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/mav/fix/fix5.jpg
If so does any one know the part number or where to get one ? If not does anyone know why the hole is there ?
Thank you Warlock....now Im really curious what its there for, the plate that has the hole in it is connected to the solnoid that releases the ball on the other side of the paddle wheel and goes up and down at the same time the ball release does. I see yours has the updated reed switch, I just replace my paddle wheel optos and wound up shopping it since it was so far torn down
Quoted from JamesH007:Thank you Warlock....now Im really curious what its there for, the plate that has the hole in it is connected to the solnoid that releases the ball on the other side of the paddle wheel and goes up and down at the same time the ball release does. I see yours has the updated reed switch, I just replace my paddle wheel optos and wound up shopping it since it was so far torn down
I cannot figure out why the coffee stir sticks are glued in there. maybe the mount is broke on the switch. it works so i wont mess with it.
Probably what they used to adjust it, yes its a pain to get down there, my 10 minute opto switch adjustment turned into an 8+ hour shop and re-rubber job. I wouldn't mess with it if it works
I tried the reed switch, I could not make it work, it was too sensitive and went off for anything. I frickin’ padded that thing, did everything I could, but the read would go off with just nearby vibration.
I later spoke to someone who had been through a few, and he confirmed the opto is the best method, and it just needed reflowing like most, as the right side is in a very high vibration area. I did this, and really secured both mini boards well but with some padding to cut the vibration, made sure there was no chance off vibrating out of line of each other, and never had another issue back there again.
If updates start happening for all games, I have often thought that this game should have an auto plunger as well as manual shooter, and allow for a held ball in the riverboat, as with many Ritchie games (STTNG, NF).
With this, one ball is in the boat to start. Any further shots to the boat for locks releases like STTNG and NF to speed up the play (or ass with the sword lock in LOTR). After a MB, the game could load a ball back in there with the auto plunger after the ball ends and the next begins.
I don’t mind the delay, but it gets a little weird I find when two balls are locked, without the third lock being enabled, and you someone get a ball into the boat. It just doesn’t seem to know where the ball is quick enough.
Trying to add blue led to paddle boat area. Don't see a good spot for a spot light Any one find a nice way to add blue. Thanks
Sckurk, my Maverick flippers are in great shape, but I tried to find them as well for a backup set. Unable to locate. Very difficult to find. Keep searching threads and ebay, etc. You may wait to see if someone is selling a Mav for parts only. Good luck.
After a long hunt, I found a topper on ebay. had to pay $150 but I was tired of waiting/looking. Hey, it's Christmas time.
Anyone with a topper already on have any close up pics of how it is attached?
Quoted from PinballTiger225:how it is attached?
Connected with 2 'L' brackets riveted to the topper and screwed into the head.
Quoted from PinballTiger225:After a long hunt, I found a topper on ebay. had to pay $150 but I was tired of waiting/looking. Hey, it's Christmas time.
Anyone with a topper already on have any close up pics of how it is attached?
$150?!?!
Not long ago they were all over the online stores, MAD, BAA, all for around $30... I should have grabbed one then.
Man, for $1 you can make your own and still have 47 cards left over to boot! 
Quoted from wayout440:Right there ^ ....you need to adjust #1 down from the 10% to 0% and the display should read "fixed" (The 10% that you have it set to is allowing the games computer to calculate the new replay score, Pg 19 in the manual)
Dammit! I did this and after scoring 2.3 billion the other day replay is showing up as 950,000,000 instead of the 750,000,000 I set it for. I must be doing something wrong. Can someone shoot a pic for me of what my options should be set at if I don't want my replay values to change?
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Coolangatta
Atlanta, GA
Québec, QC
