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(Topic ID: 79446)

Maverick fan thread - We play till we drop, winner takes all!


By Atomicboy

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,400 posts
  • 127 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 minutes ago by ViriiGuy
  • Topic is favorited by 44 Pinsiders

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There are 1400 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 28.
#1351 32 days ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

It runs the whole time. Some Mavericks have optos removed and other types of switches installed. So long as it works...

Thanks very much for the feedback.

#1352 29 days ago

My best game ever but still not good enough to put my initials in. dang

20200920_110008_HDR (resized).jpg
#1353 28 days ago

Ok folks same old same old post about boat opto's etc. I replaced the boat opto's and the incoming reed switch the one that was in it had a broken end so it wouldn’t stay in one place for long. About every 20 games or so it will release a locked ball for no reason. I tested everything in switch test and cant reproduce any issues with the switches. Also this game will act very strange when booted or in play sometimes. I only saw it once. w=we turned on the game and it was freaking out saying things and lights going off. When we started a game it started scoring without even shooting a ball. I turned the game off an back on and it was fine. The issue is nothing is reproducible this thing will go a month and play right then it will freak out one day. I think it has older rooms v2??. This isn’t my game but I want to get it running 100% for the guy. My next step was going to be replacing all the game roms and cables along with the 12v upgrade cable. If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know.
Thanks,
Joe

#1354 26 days ago

Can someone take a picture of how the optos are wired under the bot I'm not sure if the plugs on this are on the right opto's
Thanks,
Joe

#1355 26 days ago

ok I think the boat issue is resolved the connectors on the optos were switched so bottom was reading top and top was reading botoom in the swtich test. Sucks the manual calls them back and front and the switch test calls them top and bottom confusing. The last issue I have is when the right inlane switch is hit the VUK for the ball kickout is firing they are in the same row and the VUK switch seems to be the last switch. I tested the diode on the right inlane switch and it tested fine. The wire leading up to the VUK has a connector on it and I can tell a diode is in there and that seems to test fine also. Does anyone know what direction the diode needs to be for the VUK switch and is that connector on the wire stock or did someone replace the wire to the switch on this game. All the switches test fine in switch test mode so im not sure why the inlane switch is firing the VUK.
Thanks,
Joe

#1356 26 days ago
Quoted from cyroute:

ok I think the boat issue is resolved the connectors on the optos were switched so bottom was reading top and top was reading botoom in the swtich test. Sucks the manual calls them back and front and the switch test calls them top and bottom confusing. The last issue I have is when the right inlane switch is hit the VUK for the ball kickout is firing they are in the same row and the VUK switch seems to be the last switch. I tested the diode on the right inlane switch and it tested fine. The wire leading up to the VUK has a connector on it and I can tell a diode is in there and that seems to test fine also. Does anyone know what direction the diode needs to be for the VUK switch and is that connector on the wire stock or did someone replace the wire to the switch on this game. All the switches test fine in switch test mode so im not sure why the inlane switch is firing the VUK.
Thanks,
Joe

Just a stab in the dark, but try watching this. You need to account for any closed switches including the "always closed" reference switch. These can also be trough switches with balls there.

#1357 26 days ago

razorsedge ok so I have narrowed it down somewhat if I hold the two ball trough switches 13 and 14 closed and i hit the right inlane switch in switch test mode it fires both switches 15 and 47. I have replaced the diodes on all the switches ball trough 13 and 14 switch 15 which is the VUK and the right inlane switch 47 and it still does it. The only other things in the square are the boat optos which are brand new unless im doing something wrong... The only thing I can see that may be wrong is switch 15 should be this switch https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5118-00 but it only has two connectors on it and they have the diode inline on what would be the L shaped connector if the one in the link ony had two connectors.
maverick switch matrix (resized).jpg

#1358 25 days ago
Quoted from cyroute:

razorsedge ok so I have narrowed it down somewhat if I hold the two ball trough switches 13 and 14 closed and i hit the right inlane switch in switch test mode it fires both switches 15 and 47. I have replaced the diodes on all the switches ball trough 13 and 14 switch 15 which is the VUK and the right inlane switch 47 and it still does it. The only other things in the square are the boat optos which are brand new unless im doing something wrong... The only thing I can see that may be wrong is switch 15 should be this switch https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5118-00 but it only has two connectors on it and they have the diode inline on what would be the L shaped connector if the one in the link ony had two connectors.
[quoted image]

First, sw15 is the ball trough on that chart, not the VUK?

I'm confused about what tests and results you have going on.

Also I don't have a switch like that in my ball trough, nor VUK.

My game does have microswitches in 3 places where optos once were (2 in paddleboat locks, and one at paddlewheel entry). I can't recall exactly how they were wired up, it is how the game was set up when I acquired it.

#1359 25 days ago

razorsedge the 15 switch is the switch that makes the VUK kick the ball up to the playfield from the ball trough. when the upper kicker under the apron moves the ball over to the vuk the 15 switch is closed and then the ball kicks up. There are 4 ball switches 11, 12 ,13, and 14.

#1360 25 days ago
Quoted from cyroute:razorsedge the 15 switch is the switch that makes the VUK kick the ball up to the playfield from the ball trough. when the upper kicker under the apron moves the ball over to the vuk the 15 switch is closed and then the ball kicks up. There are 4 ball switches 11, 12 ,13, and 14.

Ahhh yes sorry, I was confused by "VUK" which I usually associate with the top of the playfield. That 15 is an opto if I recall right? . Normally I have referred to it as "Shooter eject or kicker" ... There is a ball serve coil, to keep trough balls out of the ball serve (sw15). So, either 13 or 14 completes a square there with either of the boat lock optos or switches. Has the problem arisen after new wiring work? ... maybe the opto switch wiring is not quite right?

#1361 25 days ago

I have a feeling this game always had the issue but you only see it when the inlane switch is hit and if there are 2 or more balls in the ball trough. A buddy of mine thinks it may be a board issue since i changed all the diodes on all the switches.

#1362 25 days ago
Quoted from cyroute:

I have a feeling this game always had the issue but you only see it when the inlane switch is hit and if there are 2 or more balls in the ball trough. A buddy of mine thinks it may be a board issue since i changed all the diodes on all the switches.

Also, that marco link Does look like the correct switch for 15. I'm sorry I was getting confused with Baywatch and Batman which have opto there.

I have never had to work on this shooter eject section in my Maverick, but yep it's the one.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5118-00

#1363 21 days ago

Well I replaced the 15 switch with a proper one and also replace the 13 ball trough switch and the problem persist not sure where to go at this point.

#1364 21 days ago

OK it seems like the top or back opto is causing the problem even tho it works 100% in test mode itself. If I take the connector with the 3 wires connected green-blue and a white-blue one off off the back lock the problem goes away. These opto's are brand new is there a way to test this in anyway.

#1365 21 days ago

Might sound obvious, but are you sure you installed them with the correct polarity?

#1366 21 days ago
Quoted from mad_carl:

Might sound obvious, but are you sure you installed them with the correct polarity?

That is a good question I think they were wired wrong in the first place but they were not wired wrong the connectors were on wrong aka the front opto was the back and back was the front based on the way the connectors were on the game. Below is a picture of how it is wired now. I'm 90% sure this is correct based one one picture I saw. I also noticed that the 15 switch will only get triggered in normal switch test when the right inlane is triggered if i hold down the right inlane switch in active switch test 15 does not show up.
20200928_175513 (resized).jpg

#1367 21 days ago

My examples not much use for this, my boat has two microswitches in there.

#1368 21 days ago

mad_carl Can you take apic of the boat optos or verify if mine are correct?
Thanks,
Joe

#1369 21 days ago
Quoted from cyroute:

mad_carl Can you take apic of the boat optos or verify if mine are correct?
Thanks,
Joe

TX/RX the right way around? ... connectors?

#1370 20 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

TX/RX the right way around? ... connectors?

razorsedge if you look at my picture above the recievers are at the bottom and the transmitters are at the top and you can see the connectors on each. These are the ones I bought to replace the old ones... https://ksarcade.net/520-5102-00-sega-520-5103-00-opto-set.html
Joe

#1371 20 days ago
Quoted from cyroute:

razorsedge if you look at my picture above the recievers are at the bottom and the transmitters are at the top and you can see the connectors on each. These are the ones I bought to replace the old ones... https://ksarcade.net/520-5102-00-sega-520-5103-00-opto-set.html
Joe

All good just a clutching at straws thing to crosscheck in manual. I'm not much use here I guess really, having microswitches in there.

#1372 20 days ago

Sorry meant to see if mad_carl could compare my stuff to what he has. Carl could you look at my pic and compare it to yours or anyone else for that matter.
Joe

#1373 20 days ago

Here’s a pic of what I have for reference.

When I posted earlier about the polarity, I was more so talking about the led itself. They should have -/+ leads. Having it in backwards would cause some issues.

Edit: nm, Just read that you replaced the whole pcb instead of the led

Have you tried testing, or replaced the corresponding transistor and on the mpu?

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#1374 20 days ago

mad_carl I tested the switch matrix using jumpers on the MPU and everything seems to work on the MPU side it has to be something on the playfield aka the otpo im thinking. I didnt get any double switch hits when I tested just the MPU manually using the method below

If there are problems figuring out if the short is in the playfield or the CPU board, try this. Remove connectors CN10 and CN8 from the CPU board. Next put the game in switch edge test. Using the manual, find which row and column of the switch that causes the phantom closure. Then cross this row and column directly on the CPU board (with wire and alligator clips, and a diode, as described below in the "Testing the Switch Columns/Rows"). The row and column numbers for each pin of connectors CN10 and CN8 are listed below. If the phantom switch does not activate, the problem is in the playfield. If the phantom closure still works, there is a CPU board problem.

#1375 20 days ago

Humour me and disconnect your coindoor and try/test the switches again.

#1376 19 days ago
Quoted from mad_carl:

Humour me and disconnect your coindoor and try/test the switches again.

mad_carl tried that and still have the switch issue.

#1377 15 days ago

Just wanted to close this one out the issue ended up being in the MPU...
Joe

1 week later
#1378 8 days ago

So I have an odd sound issue. When the game starts up you can hear the “horn” of the Lauren Belle but that’s the only sound I can get out of the game. No other sounds happen. What should I be looking at to restore the sounds and music for the game?

#1379 2 days ago

Soo..... I bought another one. This one is not nearly as nice as my first one was. But I will fix it. I am picking it up tomorrow morning.

This one however has a Red and black boat.. and it is cracked. So, who is vacuforming new boats? Or even 3d printing them?

#1380 2 days ago
Quoted from MeNaCeFiRe:

So I have an odd sound issue. When the game starts up you can hear the “horn” of the Lauren Belle but that’s the only sound I can get out of the game. No other sounds happen. What should I be looking at to restore the sounds and music for the game?

Errors like that are usually a sound rom issue. Might try replacing the caps ont he sound board.. They are nearly 30 years old.. and replace the sound roms.

#1381 2 days ago
Quoted from ViriiGuy:

Soo..... I bought another one. This one is not nearly as nice as my first one was. But I will fix it. I am picking it up tomorrow morning.
This one however has a Red and black boat.. and it is cracked. So, who is vacuforming new boats? Or even 3d printing them?

There was a guy gathering interest/ looking for a NOS Belle.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/maverick-boat-lauren-belle#post-5914045

#1384 2 days ago

Has anyone got decals from .retrorefurbs

#1385 2 days ago

I got my Maverick home! It’s no where as nice as the one owner model I had before, but I’ll get it up to snuff soon.

Has anyone ever seen a red Lauren Belle before??

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#1386 1 day ago

Has anyone ever seen a red Lauren Belle before??

First time for me, it’s kinda neat, get the decal kit for it,
Also your shooter rod Is different.

#1387 1 day ago
Quoted from ViriiGuy:

I got my Maverick home! It’s no where as nice as the one owner model I had before, but I’ll get it up to snuff soon.
Has anyone ever seen a red Lauren Belle before??
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow! Someone played the shit out of that Maverick! I love cleaning playfields that dirty and seeing the transformation.

#1388 1 day ago

No first for me too maybe someone made that one up somehow looks good

#1389 1 day ago
Quoted from Liftserv:

Has anyone ever seen a red Lauren Belle before??
First time for me, it’s kinda neat, get the decal kit for it,
Also your shooter rod Is different.

I already ordered the last prototype Poker chip shooter rod from PPS. I'm still looking for the poker face flipper bats.

Quoted from crujones4life:

Wow! Someone played the shit out of that Maverick! I love cleaning playfields that dirty and seeing the transformation.

Yep! The cab is beat to heck from a LOOOONG life on route. I have a LOT of work to do to this one, but it will be beautiful when done.

#1390 1 day ago
Quoted from Williampinball:

Has anyone got decals from .retrorefurbs

Yes, I've purchased art blades from them multiple times. They haven't disappointed me yet. I do believe they're not based in the US so it might take a while to get your product. Covid

#1391 23 hours ago

I actually started working briefly on a vac form/3d print project back in March when I had a lot of free time, but ended up getting sidetracked before I could prefect it.

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#1392 20 hours ago
Quoted from mad_carl:

I actually started working briefly on a vac form/3d print project back in March when I had a lot of free time, but ended up getting sidetracked before I could prefect it. [quoted image]

Looking great so far should turn out good with more time lots of people will love getting one of theses

#1393 16 hours ago

So my Red Lauren belle, is a white one that someone air brushed. However, it is broken badly, so I definitely need a new one.

#1394 14 hours ago
Quoted from Williampinball:

Looking great so far should turn out good with more time lots of people will love getting one of theses

I mean, I could go two ways with it, keep refining the thermoforming, or just go the 3d printed route.

As of right now, the printer I got my hands on doesn't have a big enough print bed to accommodate the full model. The model I used for forming was printed in 2 pieces, which is why you see the seams.

I've been toying with the idea of getting a larger printer, but need to justify the cost. Unless I could produce enough of these to just pay for itself.
That all depends on interest and the expectations. If someone is looking to have an original 1 exact repro, this probably isn't for them. I'm all for getting things as close as possible, but obviously within my limits.

#1395 14 hours ago
Quoted from mad_carl:

I mean, I could go two ways with it, keep refining the thermoforming, or just go the 3d printed route.
As of right now, the printer I got my hands on doesn't have a big enough print bed to accommodate the full model. The model I used for forming was printed in 2 pieces, which is why you see the seams.
I've been toying with the idea of getting a larger printer, but need to justify the cost. Unless I could produce enough of these to just pay for itself.
That all depends on interest and the expectations. If someone is looking to have an original 1 exact repro, this probably isn't for them. I'm all for getting things as close as possible, but obviously within my limits.

Well to me it looks great and coming along just fine and I think there's lots of people on here wants them remade and all the Maverick I have owned and seen they all need them

#1396 13 hours ago
Quoted from Anubis330:

Yes, I've purchased art blades from them multiple times. They haven't disappointed me yet. I do believe they're not based in the US so it might take a while to get your product. Covid

Thanks for the reply they been great too me also

#1397 13 hours ago
Quoted from Williampinball:

Thanks for the reply they been great too me also ,Cab decals

Speaking of, does anyone have a color match for the brown on these cabs? Is there some magical Rustoleum spray can that is a near perfect match?

Also, does anyone make stencils? I don't see any on Pinball Pimp.

#1398 1 hour ago
Quoted from ViriiGuy:

Speaking of, does anyone have a color match for the brown on these cabs? Is there some magical Rustoleum spray can that is a near perfect match?
Also, does anyone make stencils? I don't see any on Pinball Pimp.

Sherwin-Williams "6069 French Roast" is a good start.

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6069-french-roast

I bought a sample of it to try out some touchups, but come to find out their samples only come in matte, which doesn't match at all. Just a heads up.

#1399 1 hour ago
Quoted from mad_carl:

Sherwin-Williams "6069 French Roast" is a good start.
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6069-french-roast
I bought a sample of it to try out some touchups, but come to find out their samples only come in matte, which doesn't match at all. Just a heads up.

Also, I think williampinball was selling a red decal kit. Should check with him

#1400 23 minutes ago
Quoted from mad_carl:

Also, I think williampinball was selling a red decal kit. Should check with him

Thank you!

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