Maverick
Data East, 1994if you match the dealer at the end of the game with your score you can have a few things happen; one of those things is "special", what the crap is that? Speaking of special, there is a special light at the ball loss on the right hand side with a bumper there.... any way of ever getting that to save you like the 21 does on the left?
Quoted from mad_carl:Sits over the two flasher domes between the right outlane and shooter lane[quoted image]
So I always thought these would turn on when something cool happened, but I just wasn't cool yet. I discovered they are basically supposed to be on right off the bat. mine are never on. I tried just replacing the bulb but that didn't solve my problem (very possible I used the wrong bulb, but it fit and i figure both being out.. possible but rare). I went through the test and yep they don't ever go on. I have figured out that they are the 1R, they are Q46, and they are on the CPU. i know I was able to test when a set of my switches went out by connecting two spots using a wire. you guys helped me figure that out, thank you. Can one of you guys just give me a quick run down on what the test procedure should be to figure out what the culprit is. I for the life of me cant remember and its probably somewhere in this thread, but I've already read through it once and I'm trying to avoid reading through it again.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:if you match the dealer at the end of the game with your score you can have a few things happen; one of those things is "special", what the crap is that? Speaking of special, there is a special light at the ball loss on the right hand side with a bumper there.... any way of ever getting that to save you like the 21 does on the left?
Special awards an extra ball when you drain. (Default choice)
Quoted from crujones4life:Special awards an extra ball when you drain. (Default choice)
So if special is lit and you drain on the right side than you will get an extra ball because it registers the ball going over that metal switch?
Or if special is lit and you lose you will get an extra ball no matter what?
And by extra ball do you mean that extra ball button light will light up or you will just get an extra ball without having to do anything?
What about at the end of the game when you match the dealer? I think you can change the rewards to one of them being special. But the game is already over so nothing really happens?
Quoted from Sirgubster9:So I always thought these would turn on when something cool happened, but I just wasn't cool yet. I discovered they are basically supposed to be on right off the bat. mine are never on. I tried just replacing the bulb but that didn't solve my problem (very possible I used the wrong bulb, but it fit and i figure both being out.. possible but rare). I went through the test and yep they don't ever go on. I have figured out that they are the 1R, they are Q46, and they are on the CPU. i know I was able to test when a set of my switches went out by connecting two spots using a wire. you guys helped me figure that out, thank you. Can one of you guys just give me a quick run down on what the test procedure should be to figure out what the culprit is. I for the life of me cant remember and its probably somewhere in this thread, but I've already read through it once and I'm trying to avoid reading through it again.
I may be dreaming this up, but If I remember correctly when I first got this game as a project I had a similar issue, the 12V flashers are connected in series. The board supplies 32v and it’s divided between the bulbs. If one of the bulbs in the circuit is blown or missing there isn’t enough resistance and the paired bulb with blow as well. The flashers on the playfield are linked with on in the back box. Check the schematic to see which are linked or go through test to see what isn’t lighting up in the back box and try replacing both.
If I remember right, the area where those flashers are is tight. Make sure those sockets aren’t shorted to something.
Also I don’t think the game likes a mixture of incandescent and led bulbs so make sure you’re using the same type bulb in the circuit.
I’d also recheck the transistor and predriver with a multimeter again to make sure they’re within spec.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:So if special is lit and you drain on the right side than you will get an extra ball because it registers the ball going over that metal switch?
This is correct.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:What about at the end of the game when you match the dealer? I think you can change the rewards to one of them being special. But the game is already over so nothing really happens?
Match only awards a free game (credit)...anything else wouldn't make sense as the game is over.
Quoted from crujones4life:Match only awards a free game (credit)...anything else wouldn't make sense as the game is over.
Right. You can change the rewards for Special, to extra ball or points.
Quoted from mad_carl:Right. You can change the rewards for Special, to extra ball or points.
Now when you say that do you mean the match at the end of the game you can change to points? Or do you mean you can change the special light up area on the board to an extra ball or points?
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Now when you say that do you mean the match at the end of the game you can change to points? Or do you mean you can change the special light up area on the board to an extra ball or points?
Sorry, disregard that last post. I was wrong. I thought you could change the award for the Special, but I got it confused with the Replay award.
Quoted from mad_carl:I may be dreaming this up, but If I remember correctly when I first got this game as a project I had a similar issue, the 12V flashers are grouped in parallel. The board supplies 32v and it’s divided between the bulbs. If one of the bulbs in the circuit is blown or missing there isn’t enough resistance and the paired bulb with blow as well. The flashers on the playfield are linked with on in the back box. Check the schematic to see which are linked or go through test to see what isn’t lighting up in the back box and try replacing both.
If I remember right, the area where those flashers are is tight. Make sure those sockets aren’t shorted to something.
Also I don’t think the game likes a mixture of incandescent and led bulbs so make sure you’re using the same type bulb in the circuit.
I’d also recheck the transistor and predriver with a multimeter again to make sure they’re within spec.
Replacing a few bulbs seems like a much easier plan. Can someone direct me to the correct flasher bulb just to confirm I'm using the right stuff?
Testing with a DMM isn’t hard. Page 35 of the manual gives you the path to troubleshoot it from the bulb back to the mpu if dead bulbs isn’t your issue.
The flash lamps take #89 bulbs
Quoted from mad_carl:Testing with a DMM isn’t hard. Page 35 of the manual gives you the path to troubleshoot it from the bulb back to the mpu if dead bulbs isn’t your issue.
The flash lamps take #89 bulbs
Thank you! Appreciate the info and how to check it out. I'll definitely be doing this next time I can open it up. I'll confirm what bulbs I have and then order new if need be. Thanks.
Quoted from mad_carl:...the 12V flashers are grouped in parallel. The board supplies 32v and it’s divided between the bulbs. If one of the bulbs in the circuit is blown or missing there isn’t enough resistance and the paired bulb with blow as well.
I don't recall exactly how they are aranged, but for two bulbs to be connected to 32v and receive a divided voltage of 16v each they would absolutely need to be connected in Series, not parallel. Just saying for reference.
Quoted from razorsedge:I don't recall exactly how they are aranged, but for two bulbs to be connected to 32v and receive a divided voltage of 16v each they would absolutely need to be connected in Series, not parallel. Just saying for reference.
Fair! Never claimed to be an electrical engineer! Made an edit!
I welcome anyone to correct me if that theory is complete bs. That was just info a dug up a while back while sorting out flasher issues myself.
Quoted from mad_carl:Fair! Never claimed to be an electrical engineer! Made an edit!
I welcome anyone to correct me if that theory is complete bs. That was just info a dug up a while back while sorting out flasher issues myself.
Also as a sub note; Being connected in series would also mean that if one of the bulbs blows, continuity would be lost for it's pair bulb. By that I mean, the other bulb would not light because it no longer has power supplied/connected because of the other bulbs blown filament no longer being a conductor for the second bulb (not out because it became blown as well).
Having said that, two series bulbs could blow together if the series circuit is supplied with Too Much voltage overall. Dividing an excessive voltage.
All good. Just trying to help with understanding in some way. 
So it looks like it was not the bulb. On closer inspection it's the whole series of flashers on the right now. I looked at the manual and I'm pretty sure they are all supposed to be black brown but the two normally red flashers up top look like they are black black while the other 3 are black brown. Is this right? And on your setup do you have this sleeve? I kept trying to use the volt meter to see if it was a direct current and it was but I also tested it and pretty much every flasher had a direct current. Help please. Normally I would work it through with the switch chart or the lamp chart but there is no flasher
Chart is there?
20200727_213153 (resized).jpg20200727_213215 (resized).jpg20200727_213615 (resized).jpg20200727_213153 (resized).jpgQuoted from mad_carl:Testing with a DMM isn’t hard. Page 35 of the manual gives you the path to troubleshoot it from the bulb back to the mpu if dead bulbs isn’t your issue.
The flash lamps take #89 bulbs
So it looks like it was not the bulb. On closer inspection it's the whole series of flashers on the right now. I looked at the manual and I'm pretty sure they are all supposed to be black brown but the two normally red flashers up top look like they are black black while the other 3 are black brown. Is this right? And on your setup do you have this sleeve? I kept trying to use the volt meter to see if it was a direct current and it was but I also tested it and pretty much every flasher had a direct current. Help please. Normally I would work it through with the switch chart or the lamp chart but there is no flasher Chart is there?
20200727_211931 (resized).jpg20200727_213615 (resized).jpgQuoted from crujones4life:Any ideas on what is happening, why it's happening, and how to fix?
I had NEXT GAME PROMOTION turned on...turned it off and all is well!
Quoted from crujones4life:I had NEXT GAME PROMOTION turned on...turned it off and all is well!
Oh wow that's good to know, I was just about to try out that next game promotion setting. I was very curious to see what game it promoted. I'll stay away from that option now thank you.
Quoted from mad_carl:I may be dreaming this up, but If I remember correctly when I first got this game as a project I had a similar issue, the 12V flashers are connected in series. The board supplies 32v and it’s divided between the bulbs. If one of the bulbs in the circuit is blown or missing there isn’t enough resistance and the paired bulb with blow as well. The flashers on the playfield are linked with on in the back box. Check the schematic to see which are linked or go through test to see what isn’t lighting up in the back box and try replacing both.
If I remember right, the area where those flashers are is tight. Make sure those sockets aren’t shorted to something.
Also I don’t think the game likes a mixture of incandescent and led bulbs so make sure you’re using the same type bulb in the circuit.
I’d also recheck the transistor and predriver with a multimeter again to make sure they’re within spec.
How would I go about doing that transistor and predriver check? None of the back box flashers are out.
20200727_211833 (resized).jpg20200727_211856 (resized).jpgQuoted from Sirgubster9:Oh wow that's good to know, I was just about to try out that next game promotion setting. I was very curious to see what game it promoted. I'll stay away from that option now thank you.
Yeah I was curious too...but there is no advertisement for another game which is why the display spazzed out.
The "next game" was MS Frankenstein... which was a concept/prototype only when SEGA was about to buy Data East. My guess is DE just left it out pending a sale and unknowns, just like how there's so very few DE references on Maverick. Although SEGA sill could and did feasibly add their trade mark Sonic the Hedgehog to the Video ROMs as they completed the production and sale of Maverick.
I'd also speculate that the sonic animations directly took the place of the Data East animations.
Sorry guys I just discovered that when I trash a post it's just gone for me and not everyone else. I truly apologize for all my double and possible even triple posting. Good day.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Guys what does the "4 ball assembly lockout" actually do during the game? Like what is its purpose?
The extra trough position. This era DE/SEGA has a seperate position for upkick into shooter lane. In attract mode the position is vacant. At game start the 4 ball lockout activates and drops first trough ball to shooter lane upkicker, then it is kicked to shooter lane. Every ball trough eject to the shooter lane is a Two Step process.
This allows playfield to be raised vertical without balls falling out. The coil is hiding under the apron.
You don't need to remove the balls to raise the playfield on these games. Didn't last long before Bom costs of extra coil and opto saw it deleted.
Guys, once special has been lit and a ball goes down the right side and a fun little song gets played do you instantly get an extra ball that starts up?
On my setup the special light comes on and the song plays, but I feel like it gets cut off very quickly since you just lost you know? And then nothing happens at all. Just trying to figure out what is supposed to happen. I tried to find a video of someone playing where they actually used the special light and I couldn't find any.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Guys, once special has been lit and a ball goes down the right side and a fun little song gets played do you instantly get an extra ball that starts up?
On my setup the special light comes on and the song plays, but I feel like it gets cut off very quickly since you just lost you know? And then nothing happens at all. Just trying to figure out what is supposed to happen. I tried to find a video of someone playing where they actually used the special light and I couldn't find any.
That is normal. It gets cut off when the ball drains.
Quoted from crujones4life:That is normal. It gets cut off when the ball drains.
OK so sound gets cut off normal but then does something happen? Do you get an extra ball? Or do you have to press the extra ball button to receive it? Or does anything happen at all besides the sound?
Quoted from Sirgubster9:OK so sound gets cut off normal but then does something happen? Do you get an extra ball? Or do you have to press the extra ball button to receive it? Or does anything happen at all besides the sound?
You are awarded the extra ball and then use it immediately. So if you were on ball 2, get special, extra ball awarded, ball drains, immediately use your extra ball, next ball in play is still ball 2.
Quoted from crujones4life:You are awarded the extra ball and then use it immediately. So if you were on ball 2, get special, extra ball awarded, ball drains, immediately use your extra ball, next ball in play is still ball 2.
oh well that is a big time bummer, because I get the sound and the light and all that good stuff but Im never actually awarded the extra ball. I wonder what part is not working for that to be the case. I dont see any Special coil or special switch sadly, so I dont even know what to test or work on.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:oh well that is a big time bummer, because I get the sound and the light and all that good stuff but Im never actually awarded the extra ball. I wonder what part is not working for that to be the case. I dont see any Special coil or special switch sadly, so I dont even know what to test or work on.
Settings, maybe Special is set to award points.
I installed the new ColorDMD X-LED this weekend. If you purchase one make sure you have a strong 5 volt line going to the Sega DMD controller. If you are having any resetting issues with the original display they will be amplified with the new display. Once I fixed my 5 volt line the new display works great. Many of the scoring screens are very bright colors and the mode screens are a little more subdued. I didn't notice the reflections that show in the pictures while playing. I like these products and this completes my games. I have 6 LCD, 3 LED, & 2 X-LED
Maverick Screens sm04 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm06 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm09 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm11 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm13 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm15 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm17 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm22 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm24 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm25 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm29 (resized).jpgMaverick Screens sm30 (resized).jpgP1020994 (resized).JPGQuoted from OTRChief:I installed the new ColorDMD X-LED this weekend. If you purchase one make sure you have a strong 5 volt line going to the Sega DMD controller. If you are having any resetting issues with the original display they will be amplified with the new display. Once I fixed my 5 volt line the new display works great. Many of the scoring screens are very bright colors and the mode screens are a little more subdued. I didn't notice the reflections that show in the pictures while playing. I like these products and this completes my games. I have 6 LCD, 3 LED, & 2 X-LED
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Good advice on the +5!
Go into the menu of the ColorDMD and change your LED configuration from RGB to RBG or viceversa. I didn't color any pinks in the game (Unless its your camera??) 
The actual ColorDMD menu selections should be in a orange color
Quoted from nerbflong:Go into the menu of the ColorDMD and change your LED configuration from RGB to RBG or viceversa. I didn't color any pinks in the game (Unless its your camera??) The actual ColorDMD menu selections should be in a orange color
Thanks for the advice - the colors are much better.
New Maverick Screens sm01 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm02 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm04 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm07 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm08 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm10 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm13 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm16 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm17 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm20 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm21 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm23 (resized).jpgNew Maverick Screens sm29 (resized).jpgQuoted from OTRChief:the colors are much better.
The colors are correct now.
The Sega hedgehog should always be blue.
Quoted from OTRChief:Thanks for the advice - the colors are much better.
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Much better now, whew!
Oh my God I cannot wait to get the color DMD! So beautiful! I have to finish work on a pin and sell it to fund the purchase. Hopefully just a few weeks more!
Quoted from OTRChief:Thanks for the advice - the colors are much better.
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Damn that looks awesome.
I’m currently running version 1.0 on my machine and doesn’t even have the SEGA Sonic the Hedgehog image.
Just ordered new EPROMs and can’t wait to install them.
90% + of my game is colorized, but there’s two pictures you posted where I’ve never even seen those graphics.
Now wondering what all I’ve been missing out on since I’m basically running beta code.
Quoted from robotron:joined the club today. this one was on pinside for like a month and i have to say its like a HUO its really nice !
[quoted image]
Congratulations and welcome!
Hi all back in the club the playfield lights are dimming too bright and dim again I checked PS and PPB they are working like they should would it be CPU board all the playfield wires plug in there ?any help would be great thanks
A transistor in the lamp matrix "columns" (on the main CPU board) may be shorted giving continuous 18v supply to a column, rather than strobing it to average 6v. This will melt LEDs and cause blown bulbs. Been there lol.
The bright lights will correspond with a column on your lamp matrix chart, to identify the offending Q Transistor.
Does anybody else have a painted boat (Lauren Bell)?
My machine has a manufacture date of September 1, 1994 so it’s really early.
Not sure what I make of this yet, but I’m leaning towards the painted boat being factory.
It seems to closely match the ship in the flyer and the spacing of “Lauren Bell” is spaced similar to the flyer, which differs from the decals.
Any thoughts?
B1A724E5-5BE0-4555-A58C-7609E988662E (resized).jpegE605CFC1-9BD1-43E0-8191-4EBCF37044BE (resized).jpeg1F889925-6209-463C-BFB1-AE0BC81758BB (resized).jpegQuoted from Coindork:Does anybody else have a painted boat (Lauren Bell)?
My machine has a manufacture date of September 1, 1994 so it’s really early.
Not sure what I make of this yet, but I’m leaning towards the painted boat being factory.
It seems to closely match the ship in the flyer and the spacing of “Lauren Bell” is spaced similar to the flyer, which differs from the decals.
Any thoughts?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks about right...
Does anyone here have the widebody prototype?
Orin Day said the first 100 Mavericks had the painted Lauren Belle. Reason being there was no time for the decals to be made.
Orin also said he had a widebody Maverick but I think it was just the playfield if I remember correctly. He doesn't have it anymore.
Quoted from crujones4life:Orin Day said the first 100 Mavericks had the painted Lauren Belle. Reason being there was no time for the decals to be made.
Very cool, thanks.
Quoted from crujones4life:Orin also said he had a widebody Maverick but I think it was just the playfield if I remember correctly. He doesn't have it anymore.
Yeah, I’ve only seen puctures of the play field on IPD.
https://www.ipdb.org/images/1561/image-26.jpg
Looks pretty rad, would love to play a complete machine.
Can anyone in this group please advise me of the paddle wheel on Maverick is meant to turn the whole time the game is running, or only when you shoot it?
The game I’m working on runs the whole time and the motor seems to get hot.
It also has physical micro switches inside the paddle boat, not optos.
Thanks a lot
Quoted from veejay:Can anyone in this group please advise me of the paddle wheel on Maverick is meant to turn the whole time the game is running, or only when you shoot it?
The game I’m working on runs the whole time and the motor seems to get hot.
It also has physical micro switches inside the paddle boat, not optos.
Thanks a lot
It runs the whole time. Some Mavericks have optos removed and other types of switches installed. So long as it works...
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