The larger Red pairs of Power wires to the pop coils, connects to the Banded Side of each diode. That is, the silver banded end.

The Non-banded (black) end, goes to the single individually couloured thinner wires, of each coil (blue wires with different colour bands).

Hope this helps?

Yes thank you! On the far left...1 wire from each pop (3 total) on one side an two yellow with black bands on the other side?

I am all but convinced my weird controlled lighting issue is a board problem. I would like to hear from anyone who has a ROTTENDOG MPU 004...can you tell me if you are happy with it or not? Any weird randomness? Any issues at all or does it seem to function 100% correctly as an original board? I have a Rottendog replacement MPU for my Party Zone and it's perfect. Would like to hear from some people with one in their Maverick before I drop $300. Thanks!

I'm going to punt that a shorted lamp diode has been missed on that light board, or on the "21" lamp which is on the same column.... could be other lamp diodes causing it than just the Lock 2 and PC inserts.

Here is a video on Matrix and Diodes that helped me alot to understand these wierd problems. It is a Switch Matrix video but the principle is the same just one is an input the other is an output. Among the most useful 10 minutes of you tube I have ever watched! Lol

Go to lamp tests, get yourself a photocopy or a snapshot of the matrix to doodle on and mark down all wierd associations in Single Lamp Test (when there should only ever be one CPU lamp lit at any one time). The map you create will tell you some story and where to look and test. Draw an all encompasing loop/circle around lamps that are lit together. Colour code for different lamp tests if it helps. You should find some indicators in the odd behaviour.

Hope this helps.

**Also maybe give this a go: http://pinballmatrix.com/

Also note that to expose some lamp matrix issues you may well need to use the "Rows Test" and "Columns Test", so that you can lite all lamps simultaneously in a given column or row. Unfortunately the game won't let you light full columns an rows together, but row and column tests is better information than only single lamps.

Ball gets stuck in boat.

Some fantastic info here! I have actually watched that same video several times. More and more I am thinking board issue though. Here is why. Lock 2 light functions 100% correctly until Poker Championship light starts flashing...at this point I was thinking shorted diode or a short somewhere else...but then after the Poker Championship is finished the game reverts back to essentially a new game...all modes are reset (and therfore their respective lights turn off)...but the Lock 2 light stays lit solid from this point on! So it would seem it's not the Poker Championship light that is triggering the Lock 2 light to stay lit solid but instead it's the completion of all the modes leading up to the Poker Championship that seems to somehow tell the game that the Lock 2 light should be lit solid for the remainder of the game...regardless of modes completed, regardless of what lights are lit, nothing can be activated or lit or unlit to stop the Lock 2 light from being lit solid from the moment the Poker Championship light starts flashing (when all previous modes are completed) until the game is over. (Only time lock 2 light isn't lit is during the 30 seconds a mode is activated...mode ends and it comes back on solid.)

Doesn't this seem like an issue with the board rather than a diode? I have checked every diode in the lamp matrix several times and checked for shorts.

Also I will add...the test for single lamps, rows, columns, all test 100% correctly. Which also seems to indicate it's not a diode or a short...right?

Is anyone here using a Rottendog MPU?

There’s actually like ten Frankensteins that are Data East branded, such as on the backbox sides

I have. They work. Had to alter jumpers by cutting soldered jumpers for Simpsons. Was a year or two ago, they might have improved that who knows.

Their SEGA/DE Flipper Boards are puss though, fyi, by the way.

Any other issues besides the jumper? Sound, etc?

So the captive ball... I've never freed it. I think the bumpers might not be the right ones or I'm not good or I should make em easier just for kicks; I wondering though once you free the ball and then you lose and both balls go down the drain how do you get a ball back into the captive zone? Does it automatically reset some how? Are there any videos of someone freeing the captive ball? Probably should Google before I ask that question but too late.

You don't free the captive ball. You hit it and it scores a target behind it.

I will add...there should be a post rubber on the lower post for the captive ball...nothing on the upper post.

Actually, to my surprise, you can free the captive ball! It happened to me about a month ago. After many years, the post sleeves were pretty brittle. First one shattered and shortly thereafter the other gave way. The captive ball then rolled out onto the playfield and I knew it was time to shop the game.

BTW, thicker Williams/Bally post sleeves guarding the captive balls make them really hard to hit. My LAH, TFTC, and Maverick all had those bigger O.D. post sleeves installed. I'm not sure if that is what was originally installed, or just what whoever shopped it last had on hand [the I.D. is the same and the larger Bally/Williams ones seem much more common]. At any rate, I recommend trying the narrower "Sega/Stern" post sleeves for better captive ball action:
Color https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-1-116-thin-stern-compatible-rubber-post-sleeve.html

Here are the Pinballlife pics giving an idea of OD difference:
597A78D9-6F87-4A82-8C7D-DF80D82A7780 (resized).jpeg

This is how mine is and has been since I got the game. The rubber, on the bottom post only, is a slim post rubber. Scoring the captive ball is not too hard at all.

When I recently shopped my Maverick all the post rubber was the fatter rubber. I left the skinny post rubber on the captive ball post though. Would be impossible to hit otherwise.

Same for me. Before I put it back together though I waited and ordered the slimmer SuperBand polyurethane post sleeves and used those. The SLIM ones, 11mm outer diameter. Rather than the silicone type which I have found to be flimsy and tear/nick easily.

My original was like some others, hard, brittle, and cracked when I tried to remove it.

oh wow, well thats probably why I have never freed it. I thought my goal was to hit it hard enough to pop it out of there... Im not gonna lie Im a little sad that that isnt my goal anymore. Good to know though, thanks guys.

Regarding light lit when it shouldn't be...Well it is 100% a board issue. I used a light matrix tester so the controlled playfield lights were not connected during testing. The led for the problem light lit solid when it shouldn't just like it does when playfield lights are plugged in. At this point I am just buying a new board. Don't want to waste anymore time swapping chips and crossing my fingers. Thanks everyone!

Update...

Installed new ROM...no change

Bought light matrix tester...playfield connectors CN6 and CN7 (light matrix) disconnected...light matrix tester connected to CN6 and CN7...no change...so I am thinking well the light matrix is disconnected from the MPU...has to be a board problem

Got new board today (MPU 004)...no change...how can that be? What else is connected to the MPU that can be causing my issue?

I still think it seems like a dodgy diode in there somewhere.

Have you been into lamp test and checked every column and row is doing what it should??

ie. Column Test and Row Test. Each should only light lamps in that given column or row.

Dozens of times. It happens with the light matrix tester. When that is connected the light matrix is disconnected from the playfield. The tester becomes the playfield. Problem light still lights solid on tester.

Is anyone with CPU v4.04 willing to do me a huge favor? Can you pull the glass, complete hands and advance through all five modes until the Poker Championship light starts flashing...then see if lock 2 light is lit solid? On my game it lights as soon as Poker Championship light starts flashing. But...it stays lit throughout the rest of the game regardless of what lights are lit, what switches are activated, what coils fire, it doesn't matter it will stay lit until game over.

Ok. Running out of possible causes. We have to work out what can cause the condition. It is a bit perplexing. We are missing something in the isolation testing.

There must be some part in common or not change tested yet... ?

So it sounds like a code bug from manufacturer, within the ROM, simply nobody has discovered it before. ?

Wouldn't surprise me as it is extremely difficult to get to the Poker Championship.

I will try and replicate this when I get home. Thanks for your time and help!

Got it figured out! It is a software bug! Only had to spend hundreds of dollars and dozens of hours to figure that out but hey...that's pinball! I guess because so few people ever make it to the Poker Championship and those that do get there so rarely it largely went unnoticed. Thanks again to everyone!

Here is what happened. OTRchief said he played with glass off and if ball 1 is not locked when Poker Championship light starts flashing ... this will cause lock 2 light to be lit solid. But...if ball 1 is locked when Poker Championship light starts flashing (like in the video PoMC made for me and I was able to replicate today) the lock 2 light continues to function as normal and will not light solid. Very strange bug and very specific circumstance in which it can be avoided (ball 1 locked). Unfortunately for me the video showed what happens in the chance Poker Championship is reached with ball 1 locked. Unfortunately for me because I bought a light matrix tester and new MPU...oh well. Just happy my game is functioning as it should.

Hey guys, I’ve been having an issue with my Maverick dmd flickering/jumping around.

Started a thread in the tech section but I thought I’d leave a link to it here if anyone has had anything similar happen with their large dmd, or any input would be awesome as I’m out of ideas.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sega-large-192x64-dmd-issues

I had a very similar issue. Had the controller board tested and it was fine so the issue was with the plasma screen. I finished building a dmd extender last night to replace the plasma display. It came out really nice.

20200623_192945 (resized).jpg

what does one of those cost to build? I had been contemplating trying out Pin2dmd, either buying one pre-made here in Canada, or maybe going to DIY route from China. Although I don't think a colorization has been made for Maverick yet.

I think it was around $260 for everything.

If you choose White, Red, Brown, Black for the colour pallet you get red and black cards .... it looks pretty good!

The DMD in the game now was bought used on here when I received the game in a project state in September. I knew it could go at any time, but I figured I'd get more use out of it.

I'll keep you in mind, but with exchange/shipping/duty it's more economical to go with an aftermarket color alternative. Bonus is that these new options generally consume less power and don't self destruct.

For the DMD Extender; can anyone recommend a LCD panel (model/size/etc) for the 192x64 DMD replacement? Trying to price things up in Canadian pesos.
Already have cables and a dusty Rpi3 sitting around.

This is the one I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SD75747/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ly78Eb8RZ5NMG

I used almost the same colors but went with black instead of brown. It was just too much brown.

mad carl I had this problem and it drove me nuts. Best advice I can give you BEFORE you go spending a ton of money...

1) Check the voltages. They need to be VERY close if not exact to spec.
2) Do the Service Bulletin upgrade #106 to power the display controller board....I think you can even buy it pre-made.
3) Re-seat (I replaced) the ribbon cables on the display controller board.
4) Make sure all the pins on your connectors are straight and do not have bad solder joints. R-eflow if needed.

I hope one of these things solves your problem!

I think I've run through everything I can think of. I've listed off what I've tried in the thread I had linked earlier.

I believe I had +18VDC to the display, although I've seen people say it is supposed to be 12VDC,
If it is not the display itself failing (which I can't confirm), then the only other thing I can think of is the Bridge Rectifier and/or the large filter Capacitor in the backbox, or even something on the Power Supply itself.

Believe me, as much as a color display would be awesome... I'd much rather one for my Last Action Hero, and at half the price of the 192x64 display.

I posted this to the movies in pinball thread, hopefully it’s not bad form to post it here as well:

My wife was watching a presumably low-budget movie on Amazon Prime called “Legal Action” and I just happened to walk through at the right time to hear some pinball sounds and catch a glimpse of a game. “I think that’s a Maverick”. She gives me the eye roll, but rewinds it anyway. Sure enough, there’s a close-up of the playfield around the flippers and later the wire ramps and a couple of wide shots. The side of the game is painted “County/Line”, the translite is removed showing bare bulbs, and the DMD is placed face-down over the playfield in maintenance pose even as the actor plays! They went through all that trouble/visual mess to obfuscate the copyright game/movie name, but use real sounds from the game (I guess they fear Warner Bros. and Mel Gibson more than Gary Stern). Time starts ~45:25.

I hear you....it's a real pain in the neck. I think my trouble was I had multiple issues which makes it even harder. Here is what @wayout provided that really helped me, and it looks like you are on the right track.

From the DE repair guides:
The dot matrix display controller board (#520-5092-1) has its own 68000 micro processor, which runs at 12 mHz. It operates best with logic +5 volts right at 5.0 volts! Any drop in voltage (to even 4.9 volts) can cause the display CPU to shut down or reset. As these games get older, the connectors fatique, and small amounts of resistance appear. Or the grounding strap going to the display board can become loose. These problems can cause the +5 volts fed to the display to drop enough to cause problems.
If the Super Size DMD Still Doesn't Work...
Additionally, the +5/+12 volt bridge rectifier (DB1) on the power supply board may need to be replaced. If this bridge becomes "leaky" (less efficient), it may not be able to supply the robust +5 volts needed on the display board. So if the above modification does not work, replace bridge DB1 next. When replacing DB1 on the power supply board, also solder an 18 guage wire from the "+" lead of bridge DB1 to the "+" lead of capacitor C4. Solder another 18 gauge wire from the "-" lead of the bridge DB1 (the lead diagonal to the bridge's "+" lead) to the "-" lead of capacitor C1. Do this on the solder side of the power supply board. These added wires will help prevent future cracked solder joints on the power supply board.

I am going to find this and watch it man! Im really excited... i feel like I know someone in a movie now kind of. Thanks for bringing this to this group, i would have never seen it otherwise.

Question for the Maverick owners' out there. How loud should the Lauren Belle motor and gear be when spinning the paddle wheel? Should it be fairly silent or is it normal to have significant noise coming from it. It doesn't sound like any gears are grinding or anything like that. Just noisy. Thanks

Oh Phweeew!! ... what a relief to know it isnt just mine that sounds like a combine harvester! Lol

Mine as well as a friend who owned one both had noisy Lauren Belle gear boxes. My crane on Last Action hero sounds about the same as well, even with my 3d printed gear.

I thought it would bug me, but I honestly don’t even notice it with the game volume up.

They may have been a bit quieter off the factory floor but for a 20+ year old game I assume that just how they sound.

Yeah Lauren Belle is pretty loud.

Thank you for confirming. I went ahead and put some lithium grease on the moving parts in the gearbox. It quieted it down some, definitely not as loud as before.