Xlnt! Thanks so much to mad_carl For the picture and quick response.

No problem! When I bought my Maverick it was very much a project, so I’ve touched literally everything on this cabinet at least once

I'm replacing the optos @ the paddle wheel entrance. My question is about mounting the new optos. The current ones seem to have a plastic rivit (factory?). I'm wondering how to mount the new boards. Do I need to tap the metal and use screws and a zip tie? or is there another way I should do this? The optos under the Lauren Belle all had 4 screws each board.
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I think I reused them...can you push them out? With a flat head screwdriver maybe?

I did not like the dimmer DMD. At the highest setting it was actually brighter than without the board. I was going to include it with the sale of my Bay Watch display however it never sold.

Yes. I'm reusing them. Thanks.

Hi all. Hope you're staying safe. I wanted to point out that the hole in the plastic does not line up with the post next to the ball release. I was wondering if it was the same on your machine. I wonder why this is? Good news is that I'm getting close to finishing this project which was to replace the optos at the paddle wheel entrance.

ball release post (resized).jpg

I didn’t realize this for a long time, but there is a third option: Stand. This leaves Raise/Fold lit at the VUK so you can still decide later. Ideally, it would be a double flip, but that doesn’t do anything. Instead, you just have to wait out the timer. It’s rare that I would use this option, but if I’m running a little low on discards (but at least 4) and already have 2 or 3 of the top left five bank down I sometimes use Stand since missing the top left drops often ends up in the VUK anyway and I can reevaluate my discard situation then.

I feel like this issue has been addressed, but I don't recall the solution. Everyone once in a while my Maverick has started playing the Lauren Bell horn in attract mode. Game play doesn't seem to be affected. The horn doesn't seen particularly scheduled either, sort of random after the game has been on for 30 minutes or so...

I suspect this might be the Display CPU resetting, which plays that sound effect on bootup. ? (the game does not usually reset when this happens, just the display driver board, same sound as turning game on though).

If it is then most likely suspect 5v power to the driver board mounted to the back of the display. There is a harness upgrade kit for this issue as well.

When this happened to me it was the boat entry optos failing...always happened when the game had been on for a while. The wheel should be turning when the horn goes off even if it is just for a split second. Replaced the entry optos and never had another problem.

Hmm, they've been replaced, but I'll have to check them...maybe lose connection or something. Thanks.

As I said in a post above, that sound effect is made other times than just when the boat opto closes. It is the sound effect triggered when the DISPLAY cpu boots (resets), and talks to the Game Cpu.

Generally the Display Cpu resets due to bad 5vdc going to the display driver board (display panel).

This does not make the game reset, the display just blanks, reboots (with boat SFX as it connects with the game), and shows Display rom version for a moment, then continues working basically straight away... displaying pages that are called by the still running Game processor.

The display processor in these games is more full on than the game cpu. It requires clean stable 5v just like the game cpu. It has its own watchdog cicuit too.

CN5 on the Power Supply Board feeds 5vdc for Logic to J1 on the Display Driver board (mounted to back of display). If any of these connections are flaky you will get Display Resets, and the Boat SFX along with them. Regardless of attract mode or in gameplay.

Excellent info, and probably the source of my issue. I had removed the backglass and display panel to take video of the display cable “mod” (loop of wire) my game had for a fellow pinhead with a Maverick. I bet the connector is making flaky contact or something of the sort. I don’t notice the display going out but I’m not looking at the game when I hear the random horn. I’ll investigate. Thank you!

Much trial and error, it seems, and maybe I'm crazy, but the issue is the volume adjustment pot... set in a certain area it seems the issue has gone away, but move it, and particularly rapidly or certain part, and the horn sound is played?! After adjusting volume and a few hours now it hasn't done it during attract mode. Is this even possible?

Yes. But only with an underlying issue, such as a 'borderline' flaky connector contact (on the display power connectors).

Your sound system draws more juice the more sound is amplified (volume). If your display connection(s) are less than perfect they will be causing a voltage drop across the connection, but maybe not enough to reset the display.

When you turn the volume up, this (display) voltage drop is applied to a lesser Supply Level .... thus becoming "the straw that broke the camels back".

Low volume, no display resets. Elevated volume, display periodically resets.

My game had this exact issue when I aquired it. In my case it was not sound that was the problem, but the display connectors. Repinning display connector stopped the sound creating display resets.

Hopefully I have described clearly enough.

Yeah that makes some sense. I couldn't replicate anything messing with the display connector, I wonder if it's the power connector going to the sound board. I need break out the DMM and check 5v too.

I just picked up a Maverick and certain scenes on the DMD get jumpy or shaky and other scenes display perfectly. In test mode it shows perfect and doesnt shake. Any ideas where to start?
I did notice that the cpu rom is version 4.04 and the display roms are 4.00, not sure if that matters.

Sounds of that I would check the (2) ribon cables between the main MPU board and the display panel. The wider ribon from MPU to the display board on the Speaker panel. Or the narrow shorter ribon between the display driver board and the display (display driver board is on speaker panel). Reseat them one at a time (test in between helps to identify fault location), probably go for the shorter narrow one first.

Another possibility is bad pin connections in sockets of ROM chips, but cables are a much easier check.

I reseated both cables and nothing changed. Here is a quick video I took of the issue.

Messing with/reseating the display power connectors would Prevent the volume reset issue from continuing temporarily, if my hypothesis/experiences were correct. If the boat noise is from a display reset then it is power to the Display system that is suffering. Increased volume simply creates more load (and increased voltage drop) which causes the display bad power supply to present display symptoms (rebooting/SFX).

I had this very symptom with my game when I first got it. After repairing the display power, game could be turned up to speaker/eardrum blowing levels without any display resets/interuptions. My sound system in fact had no problems at all, turned out.

Ooooh yuk!

That looks more like a fault in the shift registers (or like) on the display panel itself, maybe....

Someone else may be able to chime in with more knowledge about this.

If it was my game I might be looking to beg/borrow/steal an alternative panel somehow, to test/eliminate possibilities.

If it is display..... great excuse for colorDMD ?

....

Have you noticed particular behaviour in the display tests?

The previous owner did mention something about a latch chip. I will have to download the schematics and see what chips those are.

On the plasma panel. Not easy to change on these....

New plasma +$600, if you can source one.

Or colorDMD under $500 .... It will work great as standard replacment, also colour Maverick roms will certainly be just around the corner.

Or someone -may- be able to patch up your display, but with the glass stuck to one side of the board that is a huge challenge. Given it is so intermittent I would guess it is a bad solder pad rather than a chip "gone". But the solder side is double sided taped against the glass.

I'm still not 100% sure... hopefully some others can confirm, or have more guidance.

You'll at least have to determine which brand of panel your game has, they're all different: Cherry, Dale, Vishay, Babcock.

**IF per chance you do get to borrow (or buy) a display to test/replace, and it is a Different Brand.... CHECK THOROUGHLY the power connections for the panel!!. Some make their own 5v from 12v, others have it supplied from the game. Pinouts VARY! .... IF YOU FEED 12V INTO A PANEL PIN THAT NEEDS 5V then YOUR DISPLAY WILL GET FRIED! . Power connectors in most cases need to have pins relocated for different brand displays. This is the large molex going Direct to the display panel.

Afaik these are the latch chips on a Dale panel. The final major component before connecting to the plasma glass...

DALE LATCH (resized).jpg

Also NOTE "P3" on each manufacturers scat, they vary quite a bit, although the connector is the same. Word of warning for the uninitiated. 12v feeding 5v circuit =

Ask me how I know ....

If all else fails, I have one of the Sega XL displays I pulled out of my Baywatch I could sell you .. I didn't realize they command $600+ ... sheesh.

You could always replace it with a color DMD. They haven’t colorized it yet, so there’s no chroma file for it, but can’t you just set up a color DMD to a specific color or put a colored plexi in front if it.
Then when they colorize it just add the file.

http://shop.colordmd.com/x-led-192x64-replacement-display-sigma/

That's the ballpark for Brand New... used should be half that I'd rekon.

If it's good and working maybe Evilive69 would want to buy it from you?

I'm going to send the driver board to coinop cauldron to get tested just to make sure it isnt the issue. I sent him a video and he said it looks like the high voltage of the dmd might be the cause. If I have to replace the dmd I may pick up the one from pinballsp. It's brand new and if I took the time I could color it like colordmd, and it's only 300. Dr Pinball is or was working on a direct non color replacement but doesnt look like they are for sale yet. At least I have some options now.

The symptoms, the way that is tearing, matches those of one of my cactus displays. I would bet on your video board being fine. The latch chips on the display panel I think will prove to be the culprit, they certainly can fail or be overloaded after some outgassing. Picture speaks a thousand words, they say. Your video clip made it pretty certain for me.

I put the DrPinball DMD extender in mine with an LCD and a Pi. It's great with the colours altered, you have correct black and red cards!. Also, I'd say it will not be too far away before ColorDMD complete the ROM for the fourth and final title which is Maverick.

If anyone is considering DrPinball dmdextender, I had no problems with it.... I found it easy to set up with some basic hand skills (mounting plate/board needed to be crafted). Also intuitive enough to set up and alter basic global pallet colours.

I have all four titles and have tried all display options I could find, including replacing with new from Vishay.

Baywatch currently has a beautiful ColorDMD XL... Spectacular! ... and all I can say is, that stands as my only choice for future replacements.

I got a PIN2DMDxL kit from PIN2DMD, before the DrPinball kit. My PIN2DMD I found troublesome with the settings, getting things to work as one would hope, software complexity. After organising the hardware licensing payment key thing, it ...works. Shortly after getting it working, three LED in the middle of the panel lost their red spectrum. Replies to emails took a long time. It just ended up in Frankenstein, using a blue pallet. I will replace it with a ColorDMD.

Batman has a brand new Plasma display from Vishay. Purchased 2yr ago cost me just under US$600, at the time I was told "made to order only" and waited a couple of months. Crisp and bright. Good for another 20 years ... worth it? ..... who knows.

I like that dmdExtender can "extend" or split video outputs, to put on your projector, or whatever. But for me the colorDMD is the winner for Value. Even without colour roms available, it is still plug and play as orange, or whatever other RGB colour you would like. Key thing to finish off, it has proven Reliable!

**Also for colorDMD, when their dev community complete Maverick, which they inevitably will.... download rom file, takes 2 minutes plugging in a USB drive, and your replacement generic (monochrome) LED display.... instantly becomes full glorious colour!

I have a friend that has the dmdextender in his Frankenstein and it looks great. I thought about going that route as well but looks like its sold out right now.

Can you take your Video Driver to test in your friends Frankenstein?

If your video driver is causing the issue, then it will present in the other game, regardless of panel type.

It's a bit far of a drive. I'm fine sending it out because if it is not working he can fix it.

Dumb question but was wondering is Maverick considered a Data East machine or a Sega thanks.

Maverick was actually ready for/in production as Data East Pinball was up for sale. Not much besides ROM code could viably be altered/updated, which SEGA did as they sold production games. This is why Maverick was deliberately left free of the DE brand for the most part (in difficult/costly to alter places), flexibility.

It's a crossover machine considered as a Data East, probably a lot of development was in progress at the time Data East chose to exit the pinball business and sold the factory to Sega in 1994. You'll notice that there's not much of anything in the way of branding on the cabinet. Should be a "DE" logo on the end of the shooter rod, and software credit to Sega on the display when it boots up - but that's about it.

What he said! ^ Lol

Very cool thank you for the explanations guys.

Good points. I would add that there is a subtle Data East reference even in the final display code. If you don’t plunge than ball for long enough, there is a “Plunge the Ball” animation that clearly shows the plunger with the DE logo.

The flyer shows Data East on the display on the front:
https://flyers.arcade-museum.com/?page=flyer&db=pinballdb&id=124&image=1

And has the Data East logo on the back (no mention of Sega):
https://flyers.arcade-museum.com/?page=flyer&db=pinballdb&id=124&image=2

Has anyone ever seen a Sega flyer for Maverick?

The game manual also credits Sega

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Can anyone verify if these 2 little bulbs are correct? Or should they be the larger 906?

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Edit...bulbs are correct.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/light-lit-when-it-shouldnt-be

I have spent a ridiculous amount of time trying to figure out why the lock 2 light is lit solid when the Poker Championship light starts flashing. If you read my previously posted link to my thread you will see all the things I have tried and checked. I am starting to think this may actually just be a bug in the game. Since it is so damn hard to make it to the Poker Championship maybe it goes unnoticed mostly...

So I have a BIG FAVOR to ask. Can somebody pull the glass off their Maverick and keep knocking down the lit drop targets until the Poker Championship light starts flashing. This will happen once you advance through all 5 modes ( I usually just hit the inlane switch every 5 seconds or so during a mode to keep ball search from happening). Once the Poker Championship light starts flashing check to see if your lock 2 light (left orbit) is lit solid (not flashing).

If it does...would you please post or PM me a pic to calm my OCD mind? This is driving me crazy!

Thank you to whoever is willing to help me out!

Video is uploading to my Google Photos now and I'll post the link soon.

Here's the link to the video.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5yzocPeys9ouri3D7

Thanks very much for your time and effort in making this video! So it appears my issue is real and not a software bug...

Hi all,
I'm getting ready to install a set of game blades from Tilt Graphics and I have a question. On both sides of the cabinet were the hinge for the backbox is, theres a piece of plastic covering the hole with staples holding it on. Should I take this off or put the blade on top of it? I was told this would hide the scratches on it and wasn't sure if leaving this plastic on would be noticeable or not. I'm curious what others have done and how it turned out.

Got one!!

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Congratulations and welcome!

Can somebody post several pictures of the diodes for the pop bumpers. I need them to show the wiring clearly to each diode and each pop bumper. Thanks! They are on the bottom of the playfield when lifted upright and resting against the head btw.