Yes, it should have 3 AA's. I would replace them ASAP.

Hi, thanks for all the help here, I’ve been able to fix all the mechanical issues. I have one last issue with the Laurna bell going off continuously. Seems like the entrance opto registers intermittently. Has anyone done this fix? Seems like a better solution instead of replacing the opto(http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/mav/fix/fix.htm)

I just got a Maverick and needed to fix all 3 optos. The top opto in the Belle only needed an adjustment. Bottom opto has a bad resistor that I'm replacing. The entrance opto I've gotten to work, but I'm skeptical it will last. So I'm replacing it with a physical switch on the gate like the photo above. Done and done with that switch then.

Hoping someone has some insight into my paddle wheel motor. It is VERY loud upon starting. After 3-4 minutes the noise goes down to what you’d expect (audible, but quiet). It seems to function fine at all times and other than the noise nothing seems wrong with it at all. Is there something that can be done other than dealing with it or replacing the motor?

New Maverick owner!

I’m a new Maverick owner. I don’t have a solution, but I have exactly the same problem.

My wheel also runs continuously, but I’m afraid if I fix the entrance opto without a fix for the noise problem, it will be more annoying every time it starts.

Great game though!

I lubed the motor gears with white lithium grease spray and it really quieted down the motor. That damn motor was SO loud before....seemed like a shaker motor was always running with how loud it was. After greasing the gears it's a new motor and much more pleasant game.

I believe the wheel runs continuously on all Mavericks (at least on the two I've owned), it isn't activated by a switch

I did lube the gear wheels prior to posting, it had no discernible effect on the noise level or how quickly it quieted down.

Correct. When a game is started the paddlewheel runs. It is not operated by a switch.
The paddlewheel is somewhat noisy. A worn out one will be significantly more noisy, but even a brand new one will make some noise..
The optos, if broken and then repaired properly will run great for a long time. They have no moving parts. The trouble spots are vibration and wiring. 9 of 10 opto transmitter and receiver pair problems can be solved by reflowing solder joints and potting the units in some hot melt glue for long term durability against vibration.

Dude just replace the entrance opto boards with the re-pro's. Don't butcher the poor game.

Why when I don't have to? Don't need to spend money or wait for a part to arrive. Replacing a switch with another type of switch is hardly butchering a game. No holes are being drilled, nothing being cut and it's completely reversible down the line if a future owner wants to replace the opto for some reason. Really no need for an opto there anyway from the factory since a physical switch on the gate does the job reliably.

What exactly is wrong with it that you think it won't last? The transmitter is just a resistor an LED, and the receiver side is basically a couple of transistors, a pair of resistors, and an LED. There's not a whole lot to go wrong here and usually the failures are broken wires or solder joints.

It just still seemed flaky after I re-flowed the solder. I mean it works, but it gave a phantom hit a few times when testing, then hasn't since. But I tore the playfield down to shop it and I don't want to do it again over a switch.

Yes it does...and it is critical that they are replaced annually IMO. When I bough my Maverick, they had leaked and thank goodness it didn't get into the PCB too badly so I bathed the area in vinegar. I removed the battery tray and replaced it with an NVRAM from LockWhenLit. It's an incredible product and you will never need to worry about batteries again.

Please tell your friend to remove the batteries immediately and lets hope his PCB isn't damaged. 22 years is not good. :-/

Mike

I had major problems with my optos. I rebuilt all of them for less than $10. They have worked flawlessly for over a year now. Someone overheated the PCB on a past repair so I had to install a jumper wire, but they work fine.

Repair Update

DMD issue was solved with a new 14 Pin Ribbon cable. I did buy and install a new upgraded PS as well, but that probably not necessary based on my readings. Nevertheless, I wanted a new PS as my old one has some scorch marks on it. I now have a beautiful DMD with zero blinking.

Last issue is a no brainer at this point...replace the paddle wheel motor and it should be 100%.

I replaced that broken resistor and now have working Belle optos. I also made a switch harness for the switch replacing the entrance receiver opto and it works. Now to mount that switch, install the opto board back on the wireform and put the game back together.

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When you reassemble Maverick, have it fully working and then snap two drop targets in the first 10 test games.

Not a huge deal since I still have to remove the drop mechs to clean, so I'll start with this bank first and I have spare targets. Plus I have new target decals on the way and need to apply them.

The two that broke were already cracked across the middle it turns out and the decal was holding it together. But I think the real culprit is the red rubber I have behind the targets. I think it's too firm and I'll swap in a white rubber there.

And that's why I always wait to install mirror blades because I want to make sure I don't have to keep lifting the playfield and risk scratching them.

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The reed switch I ordered to replace the entrance opto finally came, but I’m having some issues. I disconnected the transmitter opto and replaced the receiver connection with the reed switch. This should be all I need correct? I’m getting the bad opto error when the machine boots up and the reed switch seemingly does nothing. Thoughts or helpful would be appreciated.

Correct switch matrix wires hooked up? (Green-Violet stripe and White - Grey stripe). If still not working, short these two wires briefly with a jumper in switch test.
Normally open switch style?....if the switch you have is normally closed closed style that could be a problem. A lot of folks had problems attempting modifying the entrance to reed switches in this location and end up reverting back to optos.

I just replaced my entrance opto with a regular outlane type of switch. I unplugged both the connectors for the opto boards and plugged the switch into the receiver board connector. Not sure if anything is different with a reed switch.

Yesterday I pulled out the drop target mechs to clean them and to replace the targets in the 8's bank. Game is playing great after a bunch of test games, so last night I installed the mirror blades. Played about 10 more games and then the damn top opto in the Belle crapped out.

That was the opto that seemingly just needed adjustment, but now has flat out failed. So that is exactly why I didn't trust installing an opto in the entrance and I used a physical switch. I'd be PISSED if that was the opto that gave me an issue since I'd have to tear down most of the playfield to replace it.

At least the Belle optos are easy to remove - two nuts for the wireform, unplug the spotlight and feed the opto connector up - then remove the wireform.

Here are pics of the mirror blades - the black strips on the top of the blades are the mounts for my DIY stadium style lights I make for my games. Also have a pic of the switch I made to replace the entrance opto.

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Pomc, can you show me a photo of the entrance switch you built put in / installed? How do you have it set, wouldn’t have thought there’s enough room for that. Is that a rollover switch that you converted?

Yup, a standard roll over switch was used. JB weld it to the gate, run the wires down thru the hole and connect to the 2 pin receiver opto connector. Done and done. I even removed the gate while I had the rail out since I removed the transmitter board (to keep since it works, but it can be left there). No need for that gate at all IMO.

This is a solution that can be easily done with only removing the left wireform which is simple. But you might have enough room to adhere the switch and run the wires without removing anything at all.

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All that work and JB weld'ing a game over a $30 opto board set? Break out the drywall screws too?

Blows my mind people are content hacking up a pin worth thousands of dollars to save $100.

Replacement opto's in case anyone wants to fix their Maverick without hacks:
ebay.com link: NEW Opto Board Pair for Sega Maverick Parts 520 5102 00 and 520 5103 00

Dude, give it a fucking rest. Yeah, the optos are $30, so that meant I would've had to spend $60 (was originally looking at $90 for all three optos) that I DIDN'T WANT TO SPEND ON THIS GAME. Got that? I CHOSE TO NOT SPEND THE $$ AND TRY TO FIX IT MYSELF AND I'M PLEASED WITH THE RESULTS.

Bottom line, the switch works perfectly. Hardly was "all that work" since I had the game apart anyway. I made a simple wire harness that took 10 minutes to cut, solder and connect.

It ain't your game, so quit raging on it.

Tonight I made the stadium light kit for Maverick. It's actually a well lit game, I think, but all games look nicer with some clean lighting.

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More light for Maverick? I have warm white LEDs in mine, stock. It's probably the brightest game in my collection. I guess it matters as to what else is near it, if you have brighter games and I have dimmer games nearby, that probably has something to do with it.

Yeah, Maverick really doesn't need it, but the kits only cost me $20 to make. It keeps my games looking uniform next to each other since all my games have the LED lighting I make for them. I primarily play in a dark room and prefer the lights very dim or off, so these do the trick in my gameroom. But like I said, Maverick is lit well and even in the dark it's brighter than a lot of pins.

One final repair for Maverick. Last night I noticed the DMD board resetting while playing, as shown in the video link below. Usually happens with both flippers pressed and I have had this happen on every Sega pin I've owned. Need to replace the bridge rectifier on the power board (circled in red in the pic).

Easiest way to test the bridge rectifier is causing the problem? With the game on for a little bit, put your finger on it and if it's hot, then replace it. You can compare with the rectifier on the board below this and it will be cool to the touch no matter how long you keep your finger on it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9GNmSRrdTfKpoKW59

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Of course properly test the BR before replacing it. But checking to see it if's hot is always a dead giveaway that it's bad.

Luckily I had one BR left in my parts, replaced it last night and no more DMD resets. Also replaced a toasted connector on the power board while I had it removed.

Found out why this guy is so bent about my switch choice. Apparently he can't remember who he bought a game from that had a bad repair and thinks it was me he sold him the game. He just knows he bought it from someone in WV and he saw that I'm from WV too. So I must be the seller and he's going to monitor my posts and troll on every one. WTF?

Guess what? When the time comes to sell or trade Maverick, it will be made clear the opto was replaced with a switch. I wouldn't try to hide any repairs and am upfront with my games and any issues they had or may have.

Game is working great now and it's nice having multiball back!

I'm glad your maverick multiball is working again, but stating that a hot bridge rectifier is "ALWAYS a dead giveaway that it's bad" is just plain wrong.

Almost all bridge rectifiers will run warm to extremely hot. Most BR's have a rated max of over 125-150C, this is why many of them have heatsinks. All electricity moving through a conductor will experience resistive loss, which generates heat. Given the amount of current traveling through bridge rectifiers, and the fact that they are inefficient conductors, they can generate significant heat which can be normal.

The only way to test a bridge rectifier is by using diode tests to discover shorted or open diodes, verifying forward bias is within tolerance, and reverse bias is 0L.

Yup, it tested bad when I removed the board. The BR was burning my finger if I kept it on for longer than a few seconds. No way any BR should burn your finger and if it does, replace it. Just was an obvservation based on MY experiences with Segas, I'm not writing a repair manual.

Not trying to be pedantic, but in the spirit of trying to ensure this forum has more accurate information than false.. "No way any BR should burn your finger.." is still false. The recommended replacement is a 35A 200V BR, and has a max operating temperature of 150C (300F).. remember water boils at 100C (212F).. even at 60-80C your skin can burn quickly.. (half the operating temperature of this BR.)

These Data East BR's are known for having cracked solder joints, and it's inherently possible that reflowing the solder on it would have fixed it, and by your replacing it, also fixed it.. I could also speculate that this may have been a 50V BR.. that would've operated hotter under the same conditions.

Also, luckily you don't have to write a repair manual, a really great one already exists. http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm

Bridge rectifiers on any classic Bally/Stern game will burn your fingers faster than PoMC and mavantix can trash type each other.

That's like me, as a (former) Minnesotan, telling you I lick flagpoles to check the outside temperature.

I was doing just fine enjoying this club and posting the work I was doing on a new game. My bad.

Aw come on, it was funny!

The lighting does look good. Maverick is an underrated game IMHO.

Updating this for the record:

So it turned out that this noise (loud vibration or electrical type hum, not sure how to describe it exactly) was caused by the coil on the motor. It surrounds the lower metal U, and it's not tight on there (a couple millimeters of play). If it's pushed to the right, loud(!) hum. If I pushed it to the left, no noise really at all. Not sure I can explain how it was very consistent in being loud for 3 or 4 minutes and then quieting down the entire rest of the session (heating up and expanding slightly, maybe?), but it seems clear to me that the noise was a vibration and apparently the coil sits tighter when pushed to the left.

There isn't a way to adjust or tighten the coil that I can see, so right now I have a toothpick in between the coil and the bracket which creates a tighter fit and ends the noise completely. This doesn't seem like the brightest idea to me I am open to suggestions on how else to create a tighter fit, but for now everything seems perfectly fixed. Not sure how common it is for this to be the motor noise issue, but there it is for anyone troubleshooting in the future.

Yeah, not familiar with those games, but on Sega, in my experience with Segas, no BR should burn your finger. I have 3 Segas in the house now, and no BR will be burning to the touch. Every Sega that I've owned eventually needed that BR replaced due to DMD board resets, even on the big DMD games with the service bulletin fix applied. Just FYI to anyone else.

And for those checking my work, yes I do properly test and don't rely solely on the BR temp. It's just by now, I know the issue and how to quickly spot it by checking the temp.
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I've been playing Maverick non-stop the past few nights and ignoring the other pins. I've gotta say, I am surprised at how much fun I'm having on it. I don't know why I'm surprised since I enjoy Sega flow. I just never thought of Maverick as a flowing game, but is, especially set on Hard. I want to dial the the difficulty more to reduce the amount of discards available though, because that is a great feature punishing you for errant shots.

Since it's up and running 100%, I re-installed the stadium lights tonight. And even though the game doesn't need the extra lighting, it's hard to go back once it's installed again. This evenly lights the middle of the playfield, plus I can remove the remaining bulb from the left corner spotllghts. Those are distracting to me and with the side rail lighting, are no longer needed.

I took pics of the 4 different white light options on these. Pics start with the lighting off, then progress thru the options shown on the remote. The last choice of Warm looks much, much warmer in person and matches the color scheme of the game. But you can see how the cold white options will look great in a sci-fi theme.

Inserts will remain incandescent since LEDs flicker awfully without an LED OCD board.

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Adjustment 47 - Discard count

I've set it for 9 Discards tonight and I think that's the sweet spot for me. Maverick can certainly be an excellent pinball trainer with the difficulty adjustments. I needed to dial down my discards because it got too easy to complete every hand and was lacking a good challenge. More games should punish for missed and errant shots, it's a great feature of the rules.

Finally made the captive ball skill shot last night! I had no idea it started a Drop Poker mode instead of awarding points or a mystery award. Made it again on another game and both times was able to score over 150 million in the mode.

Finally had a chance to fix the entrance opto problem. The reed switch option turned out to be the easiest and most reliable. Just placed it on the ridge under the entrance gate. Left side prior to entrance and right side after entrance. Used two zip ties to secure and it works perfectly and is unnoticeable. Did notice that if you have it closer to the paddle wheel that the VUK will trigger the reed switch. Ends up being much easier and reliable that the original opto right on the VUK base. Everything is working 100% now, thank you everyone for the help.

Joined the club x2 with another Maverick back to the states after enjoying the sights of Sweden. Check out the cool coin door and stamp. Is the curved area a paper currency slot?

Turns out to be a very clean game, clean boards, all switches/optos working. So just needs a tear down cleaning, new rubber, new target decals and LEDs.

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Wow, nice find! Yes, it seems that the slot is for a bill acceptor. The word below is Danish for banknote, with a sample above the slot.

Very cool. There are Swedish ROMs installed and I also saw "sweden" somewhere on the inside of the cabinet. but didn't know if that stamp was from Sweden also. I've already wiped the ROMs and burned updated USA code.

Another interesting item is a second high voltage interlock switch installed on the left inside cabinet. The door switch will cut off high voltage as intended when the coin door is opened. BUT if the 2nd inside switch is pulled up, this overrides the coin door voltage switch and all the coils will not work. I happened to spot the switch when looking for the audit/diagnostic buttons. These were not mounted on the coin door, but on the left inside cabinet bottom.

I was told the game appears working but won't kick out a ball when it starts and flippers won't work.

Switch was up.

Maverick was a bit hit today when we hosted our monthly league. It was the first time everyone else had played it and it was being played all day.