Maverick fan thread - We play till we drop, winner takes all!

(Topic ID: 79446)

Maverick fan thread - We play till we drop, winner takes all!


By Atomicboy

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 876 posts
  • 95 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by PoMC
  • Topic is favorited by 34 Pinsiders

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There are 876 posts in this topic. You are on page 18 of 18.
#851 10 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Does a Maverick use AA batteries to maintain the high scores, etc? My friend hasn't changed them since 1996 so just wanted to see if that may be an issue he should look into. Thanks.

Yes, it should have 3 AA's. I would replace them ASAP.

#852 7 days ago

Hi, thanks for all the help here, I’ve been able to fix all the mechanical issues. I have one last issue with the Laurna bell going off continuously. Seems like the entrance opto registers intermittently. Has anyone done this fix? Seems like a better solution instead of replacing the opto(http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/mav/fix/fix.htm)

#853 7 days ago
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:

Hi, thanks for all the help here, I’ve been able to fix all the mechanical issues. I have one last issue with the Laurna bell going off continuously. Seems like the entrance opto registers intermittently. Has anyone done this fix? Seems like a better solution instead of replacing the opto

Years ago I put in a switch that is activated by the gate. Very simple and works very well.

MaverickEntranceSwitch (resized).JPG
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#854 7 days ago

I just got a Maverick and needed to fix all 3 optos. The top opto in the Belle only needed an adjustment. Bottom opto has a bad resistor that I'm replacing. The entrance opto I've gotten to work, but I'm skeptical it will last. So I'm replacing it with a physical switch on the gate like the photo above. Done and done with that switch then.

#855 6 days ago

Hoping someone has some insight into my paddle wheel motor. It is VERY loud upon starting. After 3-4 minutes the noise goes down to what you’d expect (audible, but quiet). It seems to function fine at all times and other than the noise nothing seems wrong with it at all. Is there something that can be done other than dealing with it or replacing the motor?

#856 6 days ago

New Maverick owner!

Quoted from jitneystand1:

Hoping someone has some insight into my paddle wheel motor. It is VERY loud upon starting. After 3-4 minutes the noise goes down to what you’d expect (audible, but quiet). It seems to function fine at all times and other than the noise nothing seems wrong with it at all. Is there something that can be done other than dealing with it or replacing the motor?

I’m a new Maverick owner. I don’t have a solution, but I have exactly the same problem.

My wheel also runs continuously, but I’m afraid if I fix the entrance opto without a fix for the noise problem, it will be more annoying every time it starts.

Great game though!

#857 6 days ago

I lubed the motor gears with white lithium grease spray and it really quieted down the motor. That damn motor was SO loud before....seemed like a shaker motor was always running with how loud it was. After greasing the gears it's a new motor and much more pleasant game.

#858 6 days ago
Quoted from classicgamefan:

My wheel also runs continuously, but I’m afraid if I fix the entrance opto without a fix for the noise problem, it will be more annoying every time it starts.

I believe the wheel runs continuously on all Mavericks (at least on the two I've owned), it isn't activated by a switch

Quoted from PoMC:

I lubed the motor gears with white lithium grease spray and it really quieted down the motor.

I did lube the gear wheels prior to posting, it had no discernible effect on the noise level or how quickly it quieted down.

#859 6 days ago
Quoted from jitneystand1:

I believe the wheel runs continuously on all Mavericks (at least on the two I've owned), it isn't activated by a switch

I did lube the gear wheels prior to posting, it had no discernible effect on the noise level or how quickly it quieted down.

Correct. When a game is started the paddlewheel runs. It is not operated by a switch.
The paddlewheel is somewhat noisy. A worn out one will be significantly more noisy, but even a brand new one will make some noise..
The optos, if broken and then repaired properly will run great for a long time. They have no moving parts. The trouble spots are vibration and wiring. 9 of 10 opto transmitter and receiver pair problems can be solved by reflowing solder joints and potting the units in some hot melt glue for long term durability against vibration.

#860 5 days ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I just got a Maverick and needed to fix all 3 optos. The top opto in the Belle only needed an adjustment. Bottom opto has a bad resistor that I'm replacing. The entrance opto I've gotten to work, but I'm skeptical it will last. So I'm replacing it with a physical switch on the gate like the photo above. Done and done with that switch then.

Dude just replace the entrance opto boards with the re-pro's. Don't butcher the poor game.

#861 5 days ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Dude just replace the entrance opto boards with the re-pro's. Don't butcher the poor game.

Why when I don't have to? Don't need to spend money or wait for a part to arrive. Replacing a switch with another type of switch is hardly butchering a game. No holes are being drilled, nothing being cut and it's completely reversible down the line if a future owner wants to replace the opto for some reason. Really no need for an opto there anyway from the factory since a physical switch on the gate does the job reliably.

#862 5 days ago
Quoted from PoMC:

The entrance opto I've gotten to work, but I'm skeptical it will last.

What exactly is wrong with it that you think it won't last? The transmitter is just a resistor an LED, and the receiver side is basically a couple of transistors, a pair of resistors, and an LED. There's not a whole lot to go wrong here and usually the failures are broken wires or solder joints.

#863 5 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

What exactly is wrong with it that you think it won't last? The transmitter is just a resistor an LED, and the receiver side is basically a couple of transistors, a pair of resistors, and an LED. There's not a whole lot to go wrong here and usually the failures are broken wires or solder joints.

It just still seemed flaky after I re-flowed the solder. I mean it works, but it gave a phantom hit a few times when testing, then hasn't since. But I tore the playfield down to shop it and I don't want to do it again over a switch.

#864 4 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Does a Maverick use AA batteries to maintain the high scores, etc? My friend hasn't changed them since 1996 so just wanted to see if that may be an issue he should look into. Thanks.

Yes it does...and it is critical that they are replaced annually IMO. When I bough my Maverick, they had leaked and thank goodness it didn't get into the PCB too badly so I bathed the area in vinegar. I removed the battery tray and replaced it with an NVRAM from LockWhenLit. It's an incredible product and you will never need to worry about batteries again.

Please tell your friend to remove the batteries immediately and lets hope his PCB isn't damaged. 22 years is not good. :-/

Mike

#865 4 days ago

I had major problems with my optos. I rebuilt all of them for less than $10. They have worked flawlessly for over a year now. Someone overheated the PCB on a past repair so I had to install a jumper wire, but they work fine.

#866 4 days ago

Repair Update

DMD issue was solved with a new 14 Pin Ribbon cable. I did buy and install a new upgraded PS as well, but that probably not necessary based on my readings. Nevertheless, I wanted a new PS as my old one has some scorch marks on it. I now have a beautiful DMD with zero blinking.

Last issue is a no brainer at this point...replace the paddle wheel motor and it should be 100%.

#867 4 days ago

I replaced that broken resistor and now have working Belle optos. I also made a switch harness for the switch replacing the entrance receiver opto and it works. Now to mount that switch, install the opto board back on the wireform and put the game back together.

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#868 2 days ago

When you reassemble Maverick, have it fully working and then snap two drop targets in the first 10 test games.

Not a huge deal since I still have to remove the drop mechs to clean, so I'll start with this bank first and I have spare targets. Plus I have new target decals on the way and need to apply them.

The two that broke were already cracked across the middle it turns out and the decal was holding it together. But I think the real culprit is the red rubber I have behind the targets. I think it's too firm and I'll swap in a white rubber there.

And that's why I always wait to install mirror blades because I want to make sure I don't have to keep lifting the playfield and risk scratching them.

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#869 1 day ago

The reed switch I ordered to replace the entrance opto finally came, but I’m having some issues. I disconnected the transmitter opto and replaced the receiver connection with the reed switch. This should be all I need correct? I’m getting the bad opto error when the machine boots up and the reed switch seemingly does nothing. Thoughts or helpful would be appreciated.

#870 1 day ago
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:

The reed switch I ordered to replace the entrance opto finally came, but I’m having some issues. I disconnected the transmitter opto and replaced the receiver connection with the reed switch. This should be all I need correct? I’m getting the bad opto error when the machine boots up and the reed switch seemingly does nothing. Thoughts or helpful would be appreciated.

Correct switch matrix wires hooked up? (Green-Violet stripe and White - Grey stripe). If still not working, short these two wires briefly with a jumper in switch test.
Normally open switch style?....if the switch you have is normally closed closed style that could be a problem. A lot of folks had problems attempting modifying the entrance to reed switches in this location and end up reverting back to optos.

#871 1 day ago
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:

The reed switch I ordered to replace the entrance opto finally came, but I’m having some issues. I disconnected the transmitter opto and replaced the receiver connection with the reed switch. This should be all I need correct? I’m getting the bad opto error when the machine boots up and the reed switch seemingly does nothing. Thoughts or helpful would be appreciated.

I just replaced my entrance opto with a regular outlane type of switch. I unplugged both the connectors for the opto boards and plugged the switch into the receiver board connector. Not sure if anything is different with a reed switch.

#872 1 day ago

Yesterday I pulled out the drop target mechs to clean them and to replace the targets in the 8's bank. Game is playing great after a bunch of test games, so last night I installed the mirror blades. Played about 10 more games and then the damn top opto in the Belle crapped out.

That was the opto that seemingly just needed adjustment, but now has flat out failed. So that is exactly why I didn't trust installing an opto in the entrance and I used a physical switch. I'd be PISSED if that was the opto that gave me an issue since I'd have to tear down most of the playfield to replace it.

At least the Belle optos are easy to remove - two nuts for the wireform, unplug the spotlight and feed the opto connector up - then remove the wireform.

Here are pics of the mirror blades - the black strips on the top of the blades are the mounts for my DIY stadium style lights I make for my games. Also have a pic of the switch I made to replace the entrance opto.

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#873 1 day ago

Pomc, can you show me a photo of the entrance switch you built put in / installed? How do you have it set, wouldn’t have thought there’s enough room for that. Is that a rollover switch that you converted?

#874 1 day ago

Yup, a standard roll over switch was used. JB weld it to the gate, run the wires down thru the hole and connect to the 2 pin receiver opto connector. Done and done. I even removed the gate while I had the rail out since I removed the transmitter board (to keep since it works, but it can be left there). No need for that gate at all IMO.

This is a solution that can be easily done with only removing the left wireform which is simple. But you might have enough room to adhere the switch and run the wires without removing anything at all.

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#875 23 hours ago

All that work and JB weld'ing a game over a $30 opto board set? Break out the drywall screws too?

Blows my mind people are content hacking up a pin worth thousands of dollars to save $100.

Replacement opto's in case anyone wants to fix their Maverick without hacks:
ebay.com link » New Opto Board Pair For Sega Maverick Parts 520 5102 00 And 520 5103 00

#876 12 hours ago
Quoted from mavantix:

All that work and JB weld'ing a game over a $30 opto board set? Break out the drywall screws too?
Blows my mind people are content hacking up a pin worth thousands of dollars to save $100.
Replacement opto's in case anyone wants to fix their Maverick without hacks:
ebay.com link » New Opto Board Pair For Sega Maverick Parts 520 5102 00 And 520 5103 00

Dude, give it a fucking rest. Yeah, the optos are $30, so that meant I would've had to spend $60 (was originally looking at $90 for all three optos) that I DIDN'T WANT TO SPEND ON THIS GAME. Got that? I CHOSE TO NOT SPEND THE $$ AND TRY TO FIX IT MYSELF AND I'M PLEASED WITH THE RESULTS.

Bottom line, the switch works perfectly. Hardly was "all that work" since I had the game apart anyway. I made a simple wire harness that took 10 minutes to cut, solder and connect.

It ain't your game, so quit raging on it.

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