(Topic ID: 79446)

Maverick fan thread - We play till we drop, winner takes all!

By Atomicboy

10 years ago


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There are 1,866 posts in this topic. You are on page 17 of 38.
#801 5 years ago

anyone have this issue with the boat lock?

i don't think its the optos as they are currently working and always trigger a lock screen when the ball is in place. Also also function in text mode.

the post that holds the balls in the boat sometimes sticks. I've cleaned it but no luck. when i get 2 balls locked and its time to release a ball i can hear it charge but it doesn't come down.

Infact in test mode i can see the coil itself try and move up the plunger rather then pull the plunger down. Any one have this issue?

Whats the best solution?

#802 5 years ago

Sounds like something is installed incorrectly, or mis-aligned. Has it ever worked and then just started doing this, or has always been working incorrectly since you've had the pin? Is the coil and spring upside down / in the wrong position? Got a picture of the plunger mech from top and under the playfield?

#803 5 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Sounds like something is installed incorrectly, or mis-aligned. Has it ever worked and then just started doing this, or has always been working incorrectly since you've had the pin? Is the coil and spring upside down / in the wrong position? Got a picture of the plunger mech from top and under the playfield?

no the post wasn't working when i got the game i took it apart cleaned it and added a wash for the spring to sit up against. worked great for 3 weeks then out of nowhere it stopped working. i thought it was an opt issue but realized i could hear the coil trying to work.

#804 5 years ago

Hmm, if it's not binding then maybe take it apart again to inspect the plunger and coil sleeve? Otherwise, I'd check the ohms of the coil to make sure it's not burned up or shorted.

#805 5 years ago

New to the club! Picked up a beauty. I use to play it in a bar I worked at when it first came out. Always liked playing it back then and always had it on the back of my bucket list. Nice even trade popped up and I grabbed it. All shopped, tasteful LED's, mini lcd screen, and plays super fast and fun! Always nice to do a trade on a pin that you don't really have to do anything to it but play it! Can't wait to put some hours on this table! ColorDMD out yet for it?

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#806 5 years ago

What's with the crazy blue light in the outhole?

#807 5 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

What's with the crazy blue light in the outhole?

Ya...I agree...other than that...gorgeous.

#808 5 years ago

I've had my Mav for over a year now and I really like it. I have done a lot of work on the optos and finally have them dialed in. The paddle wheel always has been my pet peeve issue. It's way too slow and the machine will go into ball search....annoying as heck.

So tonight I returned from CAX and fired Mav up. As usual...she played fine...paddle wheel was ok but gets slower the longer you play. Well I had all my pins (4) on for about an hour when I was making dinner...came back and Mav display was dead...total WTF moment. I know this machine has very low hours on it and it couldn't be dead! Well, I checked voltage...good. Reseated all connections....power down power up...nothing. Turned it off for a good hour....turned it on...all is well.

About 5 games and the wheel becomes slower than ever...unreasonably slow.

The reason I am bringing this up is that I am a real believer in power supplies and capacitors. If you are not getting proper power and if caps are failing...all bets are off. Crazy things happen. So...I am either going to rebuild or replace this PS and recap before I do another thing. I can't believe the paddle motor is bad because it slows down over time....classic cap/PS issue.

Thoughts?

#809 5 years ago

That Mini LCD is really cool. Get rid of that blue out LED. Beautiful looking otherwise and enjoy!!!

#810 5 years ago
Quoted from Damagio:

I can't believe the paddle motor is bad because it slows down over time....classic cap/PS issue.
Thoughts?

The motor runs on AC..so it's not caps. It is most likely the motor itself. But you should at least check the 28 VAC of the transformer secdondary that is the supply to the motor. The fact that you have other problems is suspicious. Your PS could be drawing heavy on the transformer as it heats up, reducing power delivery to the motor.

#811 5 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

The motor runs on AC..so it's not caps. It is most likely the motor itself. But you should at least check the 28 VAC of the transformer secdondary that is the supply to the motor. The fact that you have other problems is suspicious. Your PS could be drawing heavy on the transformer as it heats up, reducing power delivery to the motor.

That's right, wayout, thank you. I always forget the motors are AC. I've thought it was the motor for a long time now, but the fact that when I turn the machine on, the rotation of the motor is close to what it should be and then degrades over time. Yesterday it degraded to the point where it barely turned, so that makes me suspicious about the PS. At the very least' it is worth a thorough check, right?

#812 5 years ago
Quoted from Damagio:

That's right, wayout, thank you. I always forget the motors are AC. I've thought it was the motor for a long time now, but the fact that when I turn the machine on, the rotation of the motor is close to what it should be and then degrades over time. Yesterday it degraded to the point where it barely turned, so that makes me suspicious about the PS. At the very least' it is worth a thorough check, right?

Yes, if the only problem was your motor, I'd focus on that. Your funky moment of the display out sends red flags. Those big displays can tax the rest of the system when they are failing. Hopefully, it's a PS problem and not the display. Make sure to do the service bulletin wiring mod for the DMD while you are testing the PS.

1 week later
#815 5 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

What's with the crazy blue light in the outhole?

Well at least we all think alike! As soon as I plugged it in I thought, well, those blue outhole led's need to go! I'm going to do white led strip there to match the lanes. Been playing the crap out of it. Forgot how fun of a pin it is!

#816 5 years ago

DMD saver is no longer available?

Unless I'm missing it and searching the wrong terms, I can't find it. Anyone found one lately?

thanks,

-- Jim

1 week later
#817 5 years ago
Quoted from JimFNB:

DMD saver is no longer available?
Unless I'm missing it and searching the wrong terms, I can't find it. Anyone found one lately?
thanks,
-- Jim

Jim, last time I checked they were out of stock and not sure if/when they would be coming back.

My machine is having display issues I am working on tracking down...hopefully it's fixable because replacements are pricey for this one!

Mike

#818 5 years ago

Thanks Mike. Good luck with your display and search. I'll keep looking too. Please post back if you find one (after first ordering your own, of course!) and I'll do the same.

Quoted from Damagio:

Jim, last time I checked they were out of stock and not sure if/when they would be coming back.
My machine is having display issues I am working on tracking down...hopefully it's fixable because replacements are pricey for this one!
Mike

#819 5 years ago

I have a DMD Saver that I will sell for $30 shipped. I used it about 2 weeks and didn't like the lower brightness so I removed it. I also have a nice display from Baywatch which I will sell for $255 shipped.

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#820 5 years ago

Will do, Jim.

OTRChief...that display might work for my Maverick....still diagnosing. See my next post....

#821 5 years ago

OK...

Display issues...

My Maverick DMD went from running perfectly to blinking to out completely.

Initial check - SB #106 was already done to the game...that made me sad because I thought that would be the easy fix.

1) Checked voltages +5.03 v at the pin and +4.95v at the Display Controller Board.
2) Checked voltages on the Display Board +5.03v and ….can you believe...only +19.5v at the +24v pin. That seems very significant to me.

I've removed both boards and see no obvious signs of failed components...ie: burn marks or swollen or leaky caps.

This display was functioning very nicely up until a few weeks ago when it started blinking. I am hoping this may be a power supply issue. I'll have to take a look at the power supply...hopefully this weekend.

Any other suggestions?

Damagio

#822 5 years ago

BR3 delivers 18v to the display, so that sound good.

Has the 5v display power fix been done on your pin? It sounds like your issue. The way you can tell is if the wires powering it is in a loop.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1545

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6326-00

Sega service bulletin #106
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts-blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/sb106.pdf

#823 5 years ago

Yes, Mavantix. Unfortunately, that fix was done (5v loop fix to the controller) for as long as I have owned the machine.

I thought I read that the P3 was 24v...if it's only 18...I think I may be out of luck.

Super-Size 192x64 DMD, connector P3:
P3 pin 1: +5 volts
P3 pin 2: Ground
P3 pin 3: Ground
P3 pin 4: +24 volts

I checked the ground straps and they are good. I read that the bridge rectifier may be bad on the PS. There is also a resistor known to go bad, but that jumbles the display...mine if out completely.

The bad news is that ever since I started messing with it...it's been completely dead. I really don't think it's outgassed, I suspect the display control board may be bad.

Damagio

#824 5 years ago
Quoted from Damagio:OK...

1) +4.95v at the Display Controller Board.

From the DE repair guides:

The dot matrix display controller board (#520-5092-1) has its own 68000 micro processor, which runs at 12 mHz. It operates best with logic +5 volts right at 5.0 volts! Any drop in voltage (to even 4.9 volts) can cause the display CPU to shut down or reset. As these games get older, the connectors fatique, and small amounts of resistance appear. Or the grounding strap going to the display board can become loose. These problems can cause the +5 volts fed to the display to drop enough to cause problems.

If the Super Size DMD Still Doesn't Work...
Additionally, the +5/+12 volt bridge rectifier (DB1) on the power supply board may need to be replaced. If this bridge becomes "leaky" (less efficient), it may not be able to supply the robust +5 volts needed on the display board. So if the above modification does not work, replace bridge DB1 next. When replacing DB1 on the power supply board, also solder an 18 guage wire from the "+" lead of bridge DB1 to the "+" lead of capacitor C4. Solder another 18 gauge wire from the "-" lead of the bridge DB1 (the lead diagonal to the bridge's "+" lead) to the "-" lead of capacitor C1. Do this on the solder side of the power supply board. These added wires will help prevent future cracked solder joints on the power supply board.

#825 5 years ago

Thanks Wayout!!...this is where I am getting my repair info from as well. It's an outstanding source.

I am not sure if the .5v drop from pin on the PS to connector on the Display Control is just because of the probes on the multimeter or if it's just losing power along the line....if so, certainly indicative of weakness in the PS. I think I'll try to test it under load and see what I get.

Regardless, the PS repairs above are my next step. I'm going to pull it an order all new parts and rebuild it with the 18 gauge wire mod. I have an awesome Hakko desoldering gun, which is seriously one of the best tools I have ever bought. If that doesn't fix the DMD issue, at least I'll have piece of mind knowing my PS is good and we'll move on from there.

My really big concern is that it went from blinking to dead as soon as I unplugged everything to test the voltages and then plugged it back in.

Do you guys know of any Multimeter Leads that fit well over pins? Ideally something insulated that will push over a pin and clamp down. I see some on Amazon, but it looks like they are hooks and it's hard to tell how big they are.

Mike

#826 5 years ago
Quoted from Damagio:

Thanks Wayout!!...this is where I am getting my repair info from as well. It's an outstanding source.
I am not sure if the .5v drop from pin on the PS to connector on the Display Control is just because of the probes on the multimeter or if it's just losing power along the line....if so, certainly indicative of weakness in the PS. I think I'll try to test it under load and see what I get.
Regardless, the PS repairs above are my next step. I'm going to pull it an order all new parts and rebuild it with the 18 gauge wire mod. I have an awesome Hakko desoldering gun, which is seriously one of the best tools I have ever bought. If that doesn't fix the DMD issue, at least I'll have piece of mind knowing my PS is good and we'll move on from there.
My really big concern is that it went from blinking to dead as soon as I unplugged everything to test the voltages and then plugged it back in.
Do you guys know of any Multimeter Leads that fit well over pins? Ideally something insulated that will push over a pin and clamp down. I see some on Amazon, but it looks like they are hooks and it's hard to tell how big they are.
Mike

I dont think your meter is the problem, although you can at least check your meter leads with another meter if they are suspect. I think it is a good plan to at least tackle the PS first, making sure it is reliable. You can probably sub a computer supply +5VDC if you have the patience to set it up properly.

For meter leads, I mostly use the small hook probes, you can clamp on just about anything with them. You can pull a connector up just a little and get the hook probes on the pins with the connector still attached in most cases, allowing to measure pins with a true load on them. If you really want to put a solid connection over a pin, all you really need is a spare inline molex female of the proper gauge for the pins you are desiring to test, and just cut off a single pin. Then you can just slide that over the pin and attach to whatever wire you have attached to it, sometimes with an alligator clip.

2 months later
#827 5 years ago

I’m going to replace the pulley on the paddle wheel with a larger pulley. I had seen a 4 year old thread where a guy replaced the old pulley with a 2.5 inch pulley because the paddle wheel was moving so slow.

Mine is crawling. The source that was used was an Australian small parts website. Unfortunately, this pulley that was used is no longer available. Does anyone have a source for the larger pulleys?

Thanks.

4 weeks later
#828 5 years ago

Hello maverick lovers!!

I have a lovely maverick. unfortunately the display isn't working... I bought it without a display, I've bought a new display from pinballSP. But when I turn it on it turns white and does nothing.. Now I'm sure the display is working I'm looking for a solution. I've replaced the bridge rectifiers, replaced the Eproms, the 5V cables, also the capacitors on the power supply and the 68000 processor. I've ordered a new crystal and RAMs. I'm waiting for them now to replace. Is their someone who could help?

Kind regards,

Dwight Heinink

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Added over 5 years ago:

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Added over 5 years ago:

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#829 5 years ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Hello maverick lovers!!
I have a lovely maverick. unfortunately the display isn't working... I bought it without a display, I've bought a new display from pinballSP. But when I turn it on it turns white and does nothing.. Now I'm sure the display is working I'm looking for a solution. I've replaced the bridge rectifiers, replaced the Eproms, the 5V cables, also the capacitors on the power supply and the 68000 processor. I've ordered a new crystal and RAMs. I'm waiting for them now to replace. Is their someone who could help?
Kind regards,
Dwight Heinink
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

White? Display is normally orange...so I thought. Looking at your pics, there seems to have been some work on the sockets and a horizontal line that looks like either a scratch or a wire, can't quite tell magnifying the pic. How are you certain this replacement display worked, and is the correct display for the game? There is a different display driver for the Cherry manufacturer displays and the Babcock manufacturer displays.

#830 5 years ago

I've tested the pinball with a other 128x32 display, and all the pixels turned full on. The screen is white because it is a RGB screen from PinballSP. Could their maybe be a problem with the display driver?.. I'm running out of ideas.

#831 5 years ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Could their maybe be a problem with the display driver?

Sounds like it. I thought the RGB would require its own driver board anyway. I admit I don't know much about it, but if you've tested it with another display it sure looks like the driver board is the culprit.

#832 5 years ago

Okay. So if the display driver died, Wich part would die first most likely?

#833 5 years ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Okay. So if the display driver died, Wich part would die first most likely?

Well, probably not easy to specify. The board is basically a logic system under the hood, and the first rule of thumb is to check A) power, and B)clock in a CPU system.

Check DC voltage right at the VCC pins of the IC's.
Get a frequency counter or scope on the crystal oscillator to see if that is running.
Then, check activity on the address bus and data bus.

That's where I would start.

#834 5 years ago

Okay, I've already checked the power everywhere. That was allright. unfortunately I don't have a oscilloscope to check the clock. I've ordered a new Crystal just to be sure that won't be the problem. Thank you for your help. If I know more I'll post it.

#835 5 years ago

Hi, I just purchased a Maverick and was hoping to get a little help here. Unfortunately, the backglass was not locked while the backbox was folded down during transport. When I unfolded the backglass back up, the backglass and speaker panel bowed where they meet. This then caused the bottom of the speaker panel to pop out of the groove at the bottom. Now I'm somewhat screwed. The backglass doesn't have enough clearance to be removed because back the speaker panel is pulled out and the DMD posts are causing it to be slightly elevated. I can't push the speaker panel back in at the metal retainer at the bottom of the speaker panel won't budge (even if I try to recreate the condition in which it popped out). The only thing I can think of is to dremel the H channel which will allow the translite to slide out (I'm assuming I'll put a metal backing in between the backglass and H channel to safeguard the backglass. My main question is where I can find another H channel for Maverick? Are they all universal? I've only seen the one listed on Marco's / BAA (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8265-1) for B/W, but i have no way of measuring my current one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

#836 5 years ago
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm no expert on H channel - so here's some "any help"

I measured my Maverick and the channel measures about 26 1/2' long. As the photo shows the front is a shade higher than 1" the back is even higher, almost 2". width is about 1/2".

IMO - and it's just that, so disclaimer that if this does not work I claim no responsibility. I personally do not see any 2" high H channel for sale anywhere, just 1". But if it were me I would try the 1" and it should work. It's a lot cheaper gamble than breaking the glass and replacing it, and a lot less messy. That's the best I can suggest.

IMG_20181224_054930 (resized).jpgIMG_20181224_054930 (resized).jpg
#837 5 years ago

I fixed the same thing on a friend machine by pulling the speaker panel out more, I was able to use a screw driver and bend the metal retaining hooks up enough to allow the whole thing to fall back in, and then take apart normally and readjust the metal hooks. Worth a try. You can put a bit of pressure on the glass, it'll bend before it breaks.

#838 5 years ago

Thanks for the help and suggestions. I was able to put the dmd out far enough to unscrew the entire bottom tray / holder after I wasn’t able to get the other methods to work. Appreciate the help, thankfully I didn’t have to replace the h channel, but I did find the ones for Williams to be the same, would have had to just trim it down.

1 week later
#839 5 years ago

Thanks for the prior help, I have a couple more questions after changing out the rubbers and bulbs for leds.
1) Does the paddle wheel run continuously during the game? Also, the horn blows continuously and the dmd switches to the boat, any thoughts on how to correct as I’m assuming this isn’t normal. (Optos for the boat are all working)
2) After reinstalling the ramps, I noticed that the plunger won’t shoot the ball all the way up through the ramp (if fully pressed). I did replace the black tip of the plunger with a softer white one, but I was also wonder if the copper bracket goes above the plastic, see photo. If anyone can snap a quick photo of the same I’d appreciate it.
3) most of my flashers work, but some are out (eg the backbox), however none of them seem to work in the flasher test. Am I doing something wrong? I go to cycle flashers in the diagnostics, but hitting start or anything else doesn’t light anything. But the ones near the plunger ramp definitely work when the game starts. Not sure what I’m doing wrong to test.
4) in the cabinet, I found a black wire and white wire connected to nothing. I can’t seem to trace it or figure out if it’s supposed to be connected to something (ie something to do with the flashers).

Thanks in advance, I’m decent with all the mechanicals, but I’m really struggling with the electrical stuff. Appreciate any and all help

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#840 5 years ago

1. Yes runs all the time during game play. It's not normal, it's most likely the entrance opto's behind the boat. Replace them, or maybe reflow the solder on them as they do get cold solder joints and work intermittently.

2. Not near my pin, but make sure if you changed the plunger spring you used a strong enough one? Also make sure nothing is binding the plunger and it works well.

3. The coin door has a high voltage interrupt switch for safety. It's usually white, on the left, press it to test flashers and coils, or you can usually pull them out to turn on high voltage while the door is open.

4. Accessory printer/dollar bill mech power or something similar most likely.

2 weeks later
#841 5 years ago

Just curious and people’s thoughts on this. I have to replace several broken drop targets so I’m planning to do all of them. I’ve seen a lot of differing opinions on how to do this. When I was looking at it today I noticed the reset bar is held in place by two C clamps. I’d need to buy a pair of thin pliers, but couldn’t do just remove the two c clamps on the reset bar rod, pull the reset bar back and basically remove / replace each drop target? I don’t have pliers yet, but was wondering if anyone has a thought or has tried this

#842 5 years ago

I use a pair of old vcr c clamp pliers, very similar to motor spring pliers. The right tool will make this job much easier.

#843 5 years ago

I replaced all the targets on mine when I shopped it. Just unscrew the whole drop target mechs from the bottom of the game and disassemble. It's much easier to replace them when the mech is in your hands. The only special tool I found useful was a spring hook tool to assist with the springs on each target, similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Moody-51-1850-Spring-Lifter-Length/dp/B00207BTOC/

#844 5 years ago

Is there someone that still sells the topper for the Maverick? Can you replace the riverboat still? Thanks for the help.

#845 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Is there someone that still sells the topper for the Maverick? Can you replace the riverboat still? Thanks for the help.

There one topper left on eBay, be quick!
ebay.com link: 0

#846 5 years ago

Riverboat rarely pops up used from a game someone has parted out. There's no NOS of it around.

#848 5 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

There one topper left on eBay, be quick!
ebay.com link

Thanks. I bought on the expectation I will get a Maverick one day. Plan to use it on my Pistol Poker for now. Thanks for the link!

#849 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Is there someone that still sells the topper for the Maverick? Can you replace the riverboat still? Thanks for the help.

This is my topper on ebay. If somebody need toppers for maverick you can send me messages here on forum.

#850 5 years ago

Does a Maverick use AA batteries to maintain the high scores, etc? My friend hasn't changed them since 1996 so just wanted to see if that may be an issue he should look into. Thanks.

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