In switch test, momentarily short the switch drive for the flippers at the SSFB CN1 pin 4 (GRN-GRY) to switch return CN1 pin 5 (WHT-VIO). If it registers the switch then the problem is on the SSFB (could be output transistors, cold soldering or bad wire crimp on the CN1 connector. If it does not register, then a break in the daisy chained switch wiring is suspect. The flipper switch matrix signal for left flipper #63 is between switch #55 right ramp skill shot and the CPU, and all the other switches in the row work so it would not be a problem at the CPU connector but could be a break at switch #55.

As far as the slings go, pics below. The left is a bit easier to see than the right.

left (resized).jpg

right (resized).jpg

Great pics, thanks. My game has an incorrect CPU/sound board in it and my tech said that I may be getting no results in switch test for some things due to that reason.

I've re-wired the slingshots and what I think should be correct is still giving the same results. The slingshots work in game, but don't register in test mode....it also looks like there's an extra grey wire crossing over from the switch leg that carries the signal to/from the solenoid. I'm away from the machine and can't get photos to illustrate, but will do when I'm home.

When I return, I will test the 5 bank drop target coil and the flipper board. Once I pinpoint those problems, I may send my boards to the tech once again for peace of mind.

Ok....managed to have a quick look at Maverick as I was leaving the house this morning and the slingshot wiring goes to the pop bumpers and the grey wiring leaves the pop bumpers from the centre bumper and I haven't continuity checked it, but it looks like the grey wire runs all the way up to the main power board at the top left hand corner of the backbox and has been physically soldered to CN6 pin 1 on the board. If this is the case, explains why the pops and slingshots don't register in test mode.

Back onto Maverick on the weekend when I return home from work trip.

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20161207_073233 (resized).jpg

I'm back!

Ended up sending the PPB, CPU and flipper board to my board tech. He replaced some transistors on the flipper board, reflowed some solder on connectors and replaced transistors on the CPU board. PPB tested ok.

The two flashers that didn't work are now working. Upper left 5 drop target bank is now operational again. Left flipper now registers in test mode.

The bad: the subwoofer didn't work when I powered on the game. Sound was tinny. I hadn't put all the screws in cpu board, so I secured that better. The subwoofer worked again and then when I powered machine back on later, sub wasn't working. Can't have been a ground issue?

Also, I tried to go into test menu to put the game on free play and the secondary button wasn't working. After powering the game off and on again, the test menu buttons have stopped working completely.

This game keeps jumping from issue to issue.

Not like a grounding problem with the subwoofer, but a poor connection is a real possibility. How are you driving the sub, is it a self amplified subwoofer? Other speakers work good?

The test switches could also be a poor connection, although bad switches are common as well. These switches do not go through the switch matrix. The best bet is to jump at the motherboard connection to see if the processor will go in to test mode, then you can rule out if this is just a wiring/switch problem, or something else.

Another night of scratching head, getting somewhere and then ending up with a different issue.

The subwoofer wasn't a grounding problem, like you said. It stopped working again.

The test switches stopped working completely and now the game won't start. I thought there might be a short somewhere. I slammed down the playfield and when I turned the game on, the subwoofer was working again.

I went over every switch on top of and underneath the playfield looking for a loose screw. I then went into solenoid test and sure enough, there was a screw bouncing around when the upkicker fired. I removed the screw and jiggled the playfield around and subwoofer still works.

I am now able to go into test menu and get into the audit menu. My next problem is that I can't use the start button to start a game or select 'Free Play' in the options.

It's now really late and the last thing I did was physically check the wires on the start button switch. Everything seems attached.

Oh Maverick.....

Merry Christmas to all!

Maverick update no. 2046: Checked wiring on start/credit button and the wiring links through the row. Doesn't seem to be any loose wires under the playfield. Maybe board related as the start button was working before I sent it off for board repairs. Have checked the connector and re-seated it also.

Before you run out and ship that board, you'll want to verify if that is definitely a board or playfield problem by simulating the switch closure in question as described here:

Switch Matrix Row or Column Problems: the Easy Test.
If the game is giving an error message regarding a switch matrix row or column problem, determine if this is a CPU board problem or a playfield problem. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the switch matrix row and column plugs at CN10 and CN8. Enter the game's diagnostics (coin door green button down, press the black button), and go to the switch edge test. If the row or column problem is gone (no switch reports), the problem is in the playfield wiring. If the problem is still there, the problem is on the CPU board.

Switch Matrix Plug and Pin Numbers.
When doing intensive switch matrix diagnostics with the plugs removed at CN10 and CN8, simulate an actual playfield switch closure, without using the playfield! This can be done by using the internal switch edge test, and an alligator lead connected to the particular row/column (switch) in question, and a diode (as described above).

CN8 Switch Column (drive) Pin Numbers

Pin 1 = Column 1, green/brown
Pin 2 = Column 2, green/red
Pin 3 = Column 3, green/orange
Pin 4 = Column 4, green/yellow
Pin 5 = Column 5, green/black
Pin 6 = key
Pin 7 = Column 6, green/blue
Pin 8 = Column 7, green/violet
Pin 9 = Column 8, green/gray

CN10 Switch Row (return) Pin Numbers

Pin 1 = Row 8, white/gray
Pin 2 = Row 7, white/violet
Pin 3 = Row 6, white/blue
Pin 4 = key
Pin 5 = Row 5, white/green
Pin 6 = Row 4, white/yellow
Pin 7 = Row 3, white/orange
Pin 8 = Row 2, white/red
Pin 9 = Row 1, white/brown

Ok, where do I send your Christmas beet vouchers to? You've been above and beyond helpful with Maverick.

The start/credit button isn't registering at all in switch test. I press the button down and nothing registers. Does this mean that pulling CN8 and CN10 will be pointless?

Thanks a bunch!!!
Adam.

Pull the two connectors CN8 and CN10 and then use a jumper with a diode as described above to momentarily make contact between CN8 pin 1 to CN10 pin 7. This will simulate the playfield switch action. If this does not work, then you have a board problem. It is more likely to work, in that case you have a playfield problem. Have you checked the continuity action of the switch with a meter? it could be simply a bad switch. Contacts clean? Checked diode with a diode test? Check wires for continuity with a meter? (just because they look good, doesn't mean they are - the metal wire conductors can break within the insulating jacket)

Big success!

Started with "check wires for continuity".

Got my switch matrix diagram out and strangely the credit button wasn't showing continuity with the left ball trough switch. Odd. So I tested everything else in the chain and the multimeter was beeping....so I followed the white orange wire from the credit button deep into the cabinet. There was a pile of wiring looms next to the transformer and I had to get my work light to see. I spotted the white orange wire on a connector plug. I reached into the cabinet to try and push it together and discovered it had become half unplugged (this must have happened the other night when I shifted the looms around looking for the sub woofer wire issue).

Put everything back the way it should be and was able to get into the diagnostic and audit menus to put the game on free play again.

A BIG THANK YOU, wayout440. I can now enjoy my holiday and play Maverick without worrying about repairing it for once. Fingers crossed everything is back to normal.

Cheers!
Adam.

OK so I got a new pair of optos for the entrance to the paddle wheel and I hope to fix this problem once and for all. I know how to get to the receiver opto as I have reflowed solder on that one a few times now. Any helpful hints on the easiest way to get to the transmitter opto? Any advice is welcome. Going to try and do this tomorrow. Thanks!

You just gotta take the VUK habitrail and the other plastics around that area off, then it's pretty accessible.

Oh my God. It took me 4 hours to replace the 2 optos. Nightmare job. Getting to the transmitter opto is the most ridiculous thing I have ever had to endure. I hope I never have to do that again! But everything seems to be working now.

Isn't pinball repair FUN? Lol. Good job.

Lol...thanks! I just recently finished some repairs on my Party Zone. Looking forward to actually playing some pinball versus fixing them.

Yes - what a horrible design. I tried and failed at this so I did the reed switch fix - which was so much easier. Did not even need to drill any holes like the fix suggested.

Couple questions:

1) Does anyone know where to get a replacement Lauren Belle housing?

2) For the captive ball mode, how are you supposed to feed it to that upper flipper? My left orbit always goes to the boat - is that correct?

1) No.
2) It shouldn't always go to the boat, it should also loop around which is the only way to feed that shot. It's a very tough shot.

There's a custom painted one as part of a lot here:

http://coinoppartsetc.com/product/parts-sale-pinball-machine-parts/maverick-pinball-machine-game-parts-misc-plastic-lot-sale

...if it's still available. It's pretty much unobtainium as there are no new old stock around as far as I know. You might beg TNT Amusements, in one of Todd's old videos about Maverick he mentions buying a couple the last of the NOS ones, maybe he still has one.

It's nearly impossible to hit the captive ball on the orbit shot unless the ball is crawling, I make it from the lower flippers but it is really difficult. Check your orbit deflector in coil test to make sure it is extending and retracting, check your orbit playfield switches too.

Try calling Mayfair Amusements and asking if they have any left.

Somebody can provide me original topper sizes in cm?

Does anyone know the formula to match the brown cabinet paint?

Would love to know this as well. Mine needs touch up on the inside.

@muzikman, the ball should go around the orbit unless lock is lit. Sounds like the diverter is not going down when it should.

I have a question, has anyone else seen Draw Poker mode in Maverick? I got this once but have no idea how I started it.

Draw poker comes from the captive ball skill shot

Picked up a great condition Maverick just to play something different for awhile then bring to Allentown for sale.I shopped it all out with leds and a new set of drop targets.The game play is really nice due to its simple,but hard to beat ruleset.The KISS principle at its finest.Looks like I will keep it due to it not bringing $2,000 at the show.My sleeper pin that gets played dailey.

OK, thanks! Makes sense why I rarely see it, I don't go for that skill shot.

I find the game a nice challenge. I have not made it to the wizard mode yet.

Wizard mode???

Presumably AL means the Poker Championship mode.

correct

Yeah, sure is hard to get there. I've done it only a couple of times in several years. In fact, the last time I played it I got within ONE stinking poker hand of getting into the poker championship. I love the grandfather clock sound effect in that mode, and of course - getting your initials to display on the poker card backs for future games.

Hi all, I said goodbye to my old friend Maverick 3 months ago, all working afer a mammoth overhaul. The owner called me today saying it had been playing perfectly for 3 months, but over the weekend, the ball got stuck in the Lauren Belle and now the paddle wheel no longer turns. I asked if he could at least start a game when he turned the machine back on. He said the game wouldn't start.

As the game is 2 hours away, I can't just call round and check it out. I am suspecting it is an issue with one of the three optos. Is there something I can ask the owner to check for themselves (pinball novice)? Make sure that the connectors are pressed in tight below the playfield near the Lauren Belle motor etc? I'm guessing a switch matrix error is causing the game not to start? Maybe even a loose screw has fallen into another playfield leaf switch?

The other alternative is the game to be transported over to me again to work on.

Thanks,
Adam.

Pinball novice, eh? There's a simple starting point - open the coin door and instruct the owner how to get into switch test mode. I would think that if any balls were in there, the coil search should have released them, unless one jumped the wireform and got stuck in the Lauren Belle. Might want to have him do a coil test, verify that the paddlewheel motor turns within coil test.

Awesome, thanks. We'll, pinball novice meaning one pinball in the collection, not a rabid forum user etc. We all have to start somewhere. He's eager to search for the issue which is cool.

I will start with the switch test mode and see if I can walk him through it over the phone and then go into coil tests.

Cheers!
Adam

Maverick was my first pin less than two years ago. After like 3 weeks, it blew fuses and wouldn't power on, just kept blowing fuses. That's how I learned to diagnose a pinball machine, and remove and resolder a bridge rectifier on a PCB. Now only if I could get that damn EM in the garage fixed...

So I am new to this club and I must say of all the games I have owned/collected/played this is by far the most under rated!!!!!

Bought one a few weeks back . It had a great play field, a decent cabinet but of course the opto's did not work.

On the way home, stopped by the local paint store and tried to match the brown. Used a chip off the back of the game in the spectrometer and got decent but but not great results. The brown they created for me is close but slightly lighter then the actual cabinet brown. looks good in the light in my basement and covered up the obvious nicks pretty well. If you took a flash light to the touch ups you can see it is not a "high end " restoration but in my opinion makes the game look better. The formula if any one is interested is as follows:

y3 0x 8.6875
s1 1x 16.5625
w1 0x 12.5625
r3 0x 26.1250

Next the Opto's, tried to align, reflow solder, improve connections, F me!

Ordered the opto replacement set from Marco , replaced the transmitters and voila solid switch performance. The replacement transmitter is LED is much brighter and all is solid now.

Ordered a NOS replacement ramp from Marco as mine is as expected. No chips but not clear. New NOS ramp had a lot of scratches in it so back it went to Marco ( which they handled very efficiently and refunded my money). Existing ramp taken apart , cleaned, and looks better. No flame polishing for me.

Cleaned the game and new white rubbers, yes I know original is black but I like white better and there is a difference in the "bounce".

Best part is the addition of LED's. It is a dark game and I think this is really helping. CT frosted cool white GI's make the game look much better, LED cool white strip in the Laureen Belle, next up is replacing LED's under the play field, we shall see. Frosted cool whites on order.

The best part of the game is the poker theme and RULES!!! The rules were done by Lonnie and Lyman back in the day and I must say they are pretty good. I do think a few tweaks could make this game better and I would love it if Chad could make this his next project.
My next post will be my rules ideas.

While I am trying to keep my investment in this game down, it is a lot of fun and I keep thinking of things to add. also considering mirror blades, but who knows?

Welcome to the underrated club. Great simple game.Buy some extra drop targets you'll need them.

IMG_0393 (resized).JPG

The Maverick owner contacted me this morning and sent me a picture:

Bottom Lock - Good
Top Lock - Good
Wheel Entrance - Bad.

I have given him a few things to look at and get back to me on the bad switch.

Also...the game had an incorrect board installed by a previous owner and the pop bumpers and slingshots had been wired directly to the power board. They will fire when the switches are activated, but will not score in the game. Another issue is that the left kickback will never activate in the game due to the incorrect board in the backbox. The owner asked if there was a way to get the ball to kick back by wiring it to something else. I said that it could be possible, but the kickback would be operational every time the ball goes into the left outlane. This is a bit out of my expertise. Does anyone else have any suggestions on this?

For the opto problem, it's really common to have the leads or the LEDs break off the board. Not terribly difficult to fix.. check out the service bulletin.
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb67.pdf

The wrong board is a different animal altogether. I would suggest getting the correct board.

Agreed. Sounds like the correct board and back to the original wiring solves most problems.

As far as the Wheel Entrance there is a better switch available, I would modify to that.

We just picked up our 2nd Maverick. I can't believe I bought a DE game back .Truth of the matter is that it's a fun pin.

Has anyone done the color conversion?

Only played this once years ago but have wanted one since. I'm a little nervous because of all the troubleshooting and repair talk on this thread. I'm not great at that but have kept a Secret Service running for a couple of years. There is a Maverick for sale in my area but it has changed owners alot. What should I check out on a visit (more specific the better)? What is the going rate? Thanks.

Don't be too nervous. DEs are not vastly unusual. The optos are are fairly simple repair. I cannabalized an LED headlamp to fix mine. The biggest concern when buying is to make sure the DMD is clear and bright, as replacing that is a bit pricey. There should be players quality out there in the $1500-$1700 range. When you see one, buy it.

MaverickEntranceSwitch (resized).JPG

To make my Maverick brighter besides adding LEDs I added Mustang PinBlades from PinGraffix.

MavericPinblades02 (resized).JPG

MavericPinblades01 (resized).JPG

I recently sold my Maverick for $1500 to help fund my Wrestlemania. I've seen people try for $1700, but it seems the game just sits at that price. Mine had the topper, brand new ramp and I went through and replaced and cleaned all the drop targets and the drop target banks. Outer cabinet was good, inner cabinet had scratches from where the wireforms gouged it when raising and lowering the playfield. It's a fun, challenging game. I didn't really want to sell it, but it was low game on the totem pole and one needed to go for space and $$$ purposes if another was coming in.

Seems like I have not posted here but as Maverick is one of the only 4 games with the big display and I just wanted to share with you what Lucky1 and I have developed

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PIN2DMD-XL_4 (resized).jpg
PIN2DMD-XL_1 (resized).jpg
PIN2DMD-XL_5 (resized).jpg

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---Video----------------------------------------------

Demo:

Basic usage:

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Order through pinside shops here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1020-germangamingsuppliescom

Greetings,
Dom

The color looks cool. I would like to see a longer demo tho. Putting 400 dollars into this game is challenging as you can not put in another game (unless you own more sega's ) at resell time. The market on these games is pretty tight. That being said I would be interested.