I have a Fish Tales that was blowing the F114. Tested everything and ended up replacing BR1 and BR2. Now the game is playable but the matrix lamps won't turn on. I have some playfield and backglass lights but every insert lights are out.

I've tested both of the new BRs and they test 430v in diode test, that value seems fine. The new BRs are KBPC3510W which I think are fine for a WPC-89.

I'm having strange values on the test point 8 reading aproximately 0.618v.

The readings on the BR1 are:

Positive lead: 17.90v
Negative lead: almost 0v
AC leads: 7.78

I've attached two pictures so you can see which ligths turn on and which don't.

I'm getting out of ideas, I'd appreciate any help on what to test next.

IMG_20181208_195432 (resized).jpg

IMG_20181208_195444 (resized).jpg

Thank you for your answers.

I've tested for continuity in the circuits around the bridge rectifiers but they all test OK.

Here's one attached.

driver (resized).jpg

I've triple-checked. The pads were damaged but all were repaired and test ok in conductivity.

To add more context, I've tried all the combinatios of this image and they all seem to have continuity (without having to make those jumpers).

wpcbri4b (resized).jpg

BR1 has 4 legs:

Leg 1 (+): on the component side, conductivity is ok to R195. on the solder side, the track goes to C7 and conductivity is ok.
Leg 2 (AC right, don't know how to call it): solder side to F114, tests ok in conductivity.
Leg 3 (AC left...): component side to J101 pins 7 and 8
Leg 4 (-): solder side to ground

BR2 is as follows:

Leg 1 (+): on the component side, conductivity is ok to C5
Leg 2 (AC right...): on the solder side, conductivity is ok to F113.
Leg 3 (AC left...): on the component side, conductivity is ok to D3. Solder side, conductivity is ok to F114 pin 2
Leg 4 (-): on the component side, conductivity is ok to F114 pins 7 and 8

Am I missing something?

Yes, they are. Measurement at TP8 is still .6v aprox.

board (resized).jpg

Soooo... I had to verify my account because this topic became hot and it seems that i didn't had enough privileges to answer unless I donated 5$... Back to what we were talking...

I tested everything from the image that Pin_Guy posted:

BR1 test results are above. Are those voltages correct?
R196 measures 1.473k.
R195 is not present on fish tales.
D1 measures 0.564v on diode test.

There's continuity between the 4 points, depending on how I position the leads of the multimeter.

Also, I tried br+ to tp8 and the lights worked. Don't know how to check this...

Ok, so i've pulled the board out of the game. The issue seems that somehow the TP8 doesn't get the voltage from br1+. How can I trace where the power comes to TP8?

Fixed! Thank you all for the help, specially that last picture from Pin_Guy .

The problem was on the traces behind the caps C6 and C7. The solder wasn't making contact. Tried to resolder the cap legs but they weren't getting continuity from br1+ so I had to jumper wire both traces (+ and -) of the capacitors on the component side.

I have to thank you guys for your patience and knowledge, you make this hobby awesome.

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