(Topic ID: 61378)

match doesn't award credit...

By ccotenj

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 10 years ago by ccotenj
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There are 68 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 10 years ago

machine is a "jacks open"... when it should award a credit for a match, it doesn't... match number lights in the bg, and it's not "stuck" on the same number every time...

the credit unit works, i proved this by tripping the coin switches and it adds credits, and credits decrement when you start a game...

keeping in mind that the "10's" reel is the first score reel i ever rebuilt... is it possible that i put that together wrong? i thought i was careful when positioning everything, but if there is a way to put something together wrong, i can generally find it...

or should i start with the match unit?

chris

#2 10 years ago

Is there a plug and socket inside the back box to turn the match feature on or off? As long as the score reel resets to zero when you start a game, it should be right. Check for loose solder joints on the wires connected to the rivet plate on the match unit and the circuit boards on the reel which the match unit goes through. I would have thought it would work on some numbers and not others if it was a bad connection on the reel or match unit. Have you got a schematic? If so, post a scan of the relevant section for us to have a look. Is there a contact on the game over relay to feed the replay step up coil from the match circuit?

#3 10 years ago

thanks for responding nick...

yup, jones plug for match is in the "on" position and has been cleaned and seated correctly (if this was off, would the match number even light in the bg? i don't know... )...

circuit board on the reel was cleaned and lubed when i rebuilt it...

nope, never seems to work... i've played it a bunch, so sooner or later, i would have hit one that worked if it was sporadic...

i'll check the solder joints when i get home... given the condition of some other ones i've found in the machine, that's always a possibility... i'll also review the schematic to see what switches should be there/actuated...

#4 10 years ago

Mate,
I reckon there has to be a switch that connects the match circuit after the game ends. Could it be on the end of game relay, the circuit opened by the EOS switch on the replay step up coil after the match has scored or maybe one last cycle of the score motor?

#5 10 years ago

Since you mention having had the score reel apart, remember that thin metal rectangular piece with the two springy arms on it with contact points? It sits over the hub of the score reel, and the two contact points ride on the circuit board.

Sometimes the arms get bent, and don't actually touch the circuit board, and then no match. Might take a peek at that. (Or if the circuit board is gunked up still.)

The match lights are controlled by the 'FS' mini-stepper, so the lights coming on is a good sign for that.

Otherwise, the 'add replay' for a match is that Ten's unit, the FS relay, a score motor switch 1D, a ball return relay 'O' switch, ball count unit 3 or 5 (depending on the setting; this is on the ball count unit wiper disc though), and a score motor switch 1A. The last two items are in common with the 'add ball count', so if that's working, then those are too. That would leave the Ten's unit (that little wiper piece I mentioned), score motor switch 1D, and a switch on 'O' as possibilities.

Good luck!

#6 10 years ago

@nick... good thought, i'll check that when i get home...

@df... yup, i remember it well... i'll take a peek at that... i'll follow the sequence you posted, thanks for giving me the path...

#7 10 years ago

Look for a wire broken off one of the score reel circuit boards.

Mike O.
Team-EM

#8 10 years ago

@mike...

thanks, i'll check that too... i didn't touch it last night, i decided to actually play pinball for a change...

#9 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

i decided to actually play pinball for a change...

Oh, I've heard of that! What's that like?

#10 10 years ago
Quoted from textrivers:

Oh, I've heard of that! What's that like?

it was actually fun... reminded me why I started in this hobby in the first place...

#11 10 years ago

My SpinOut was doing the same thing and as Mike pointed out it was one of the wires from the scoring reals. The tricky thing with this was that the wire and solder joint looked ok, but on the backside of the circuit board the connection from the rivet was broken. So visually it was hard to tell. I found it originally tracing through with my meter.

#12 10 years ago

Does your match feature work yet ccotenj?

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from SteveFury:

Does your match feature work yet ccotenj?

nope, not yet... i've been spending all my time working on the magic city... i need to break away from that for a little while and solve this though...

#14 10 years ago

ok, i poked around a bit and played a few games...

number matched, but didn't get awarded a credit...

however.... i got awarded a credit at the end of a subsequent game when the number did not match... something tells me i assembled something wrong...

i'll disassemble the 10's reel and see...

chris

#15 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

ok, i poked around a bit and played a few games...
number matched, but didn't get awarded a credit...
however.... i got awarded a credit at the end of a subsequent game when the number did not match... something tells me i assembled something wrong...
i'll disassemble the 10's reel and see...
chris

Aha, a good clue. Pay close attention to the orientation of that little metal piece with the two contacts on it. There's one smaller notch in it that fits over a notch on the reel hub to line it up. When the reel is at the zero position, the arm that sticks out and away from the metal piece will be pointing to around the one o'clock position, when '0' on the score reel is facing you. But the metal piece and the score reel are 'keyed' to go into one position, although it can be overridden.

Just a thought, could still be something else.

#16 10 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Aha, a good clue. Pay close attention to the orientation of that little metal piece with the two contacts on it. There's one smaller notch in it that fits over a notch on the reel hub to line it up. When the reel is at the zero position, the arm that sticks out and away from the metal piece will be pointing to around the one o'clock position, when '0' on the score reel is facing you. But the metal piece and the score reel are 'keyed' to go into one position, although it can be overridden.
Just a thought, could still be something else.

thanks df...

ok, i'll take it apart and check that... one thing that i have definitely proven during my 50 years on this planet is that i can put something together wrong, even if they make it hard to do so...

#17 10 years ago

It is also worth taking a quick visual check on the match unit itself, the contacts are right there easy to see. One Bakelite board/contact combo runs just the backglass number lights. The board/contact on the other side of the match unit runs the replay circuit. Make sure the wiper on both sides match the same wiper space on each perspective board.

I'll try to find a moment to post more specific details later tonight on how the match circuit works but I'm obsessivly busy rebuiding an old jukebox for a while which saps all my time.

#18 10 years ago

^^^

cool thanks steve... i'm going to spend a bit of time with it after dinner and see what i see...

no rush... you get to work on your own projects every now and then rather than just holding the hands of us new guys...

#19 10 years ago

Hi ccotenj.

The match circuit highlighted here is from a 1975 Soccer (2 player) game. Sorry for the crummy schematic copy, the blue line down the middle is a missing strip of the schematic. Since your Jacks Open is a 1 player game, just disregard the 2nd player match circuit.

Since the schematic is drawn with the score reel bakelite wiper switch -and- the "F" (Match relay) in the zero positions let's assume that's the status at the end of your last ball. We know this is the last ball so the XB (Last ball) relay switch is closed. When the ball drains, the "O" (Outhole) relay will close. A Score Motor cam switch will close a moment later (Motor 1B on the Soccer). The replay and knocker solenoids will pulse because a circuit is made through the Match relay and score reel wiper switch.

Be sure to check your own schematic, I think yours will be similar to this one:

Soccer_Match_circuit.jpgSoccer_Match_circuit.jpg

#20 10 years ago
Quoted from SteveFury:

Does your match feature work yet ccotenj?

Quoted from ccotenj:

nope, not yet...

If you can't get it working, I'll be glad to send you a quarter so you can continue to play.

#21 10 years ago

@steve... cool, thanks! no need to apologize about the schematic... you are doing all the hard work for me (how's that juke coming?)...

while playing the game last night, i confirmed that when a "match" condition occurs, it doesn't award a credit... "80" lit on the bg, and 10's reel was at "80" as well...

looking at the schematic now... you are right, it's drawn slightly different, but the circuit itself is the same... there's another branch off the circuit for a 25 microfarad cap, shouldn't affect this (wonder what its there for though?) as it is "after" where the "add replay" branch is (but before the knocker)... i "know" that the "add replay"/cap/"knocker portion works, as it awards replays correctly based on scoring...

i'm thinking it's possible (probable?) i assembled the "fs relay disc" (labeled "f relay" on the schematic you posted) wrong (i had cleaned that at the same time i messed with the reel)... either got the disc on there "backwards" somehow, or the little thingie with contacts is backwards... since the number lights on the bg, it has to be completing the circuit (and all that comes before it, like the motor switch, etc.) for the "fs relay (00-90 unit)" portion (albeit possibly incorrectly)...

gonna fire up a fresh pot of coffee and take it apart and see what i see... that reel needs new springs anyway*, i've been putting off doing that since it's so much "fun" to play with these reels...

i need to figure out a way to test this other than playing ball #5 over and over and "hoping" to hit the match condition...

i'll report back...

* that is what was causing the "it doesn't work" condition when i got the machine, it was getting "stuck" on "9" when the reels were trying to reset on game startup... i cleaned it and shortened that spring enough to get it to reset, but it is still a bit sticky when going from "9" to "0" during gameplay... since i lost my "fix an em" virginity with that fix, it's very possible i did something incorrectly...

#22 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

If you can't get it working, I'll be glad to send you a quarter so you can continue to play.

your generosity is unequalled...

#23 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

while playing the game last night, i confirmed that when a "match" condition occurs, it doesn't award a credit... "80" lit on the bg, and 10's reel was at "80" as well...

Time to bust out the meter.

#24 10 years ago

@steve... cool, thanks! no need to apologize about the schematic... you are doing all the hard work for me (how's that juke coming?)...

Please send me a crying towel.
The main display glass (see the pics) was peeling like an old pinball backglass. I had spent 2.5 days repairing it. Taping, painting, sealing, cleaning. It looked -really- great. It opens on the machine like a big car hood. I reattached it to the machine and not an hour passed before I lost grip and it slammed closed, cracking the glass top to bottom in two pieces.

The glass is very dangerous as it is now. A "new" authentic glass cost too much to justify so I am about to order a new blank glass and repaint it myself. It will be *almost* good as new. Probably another 3 days of glass painting work. Otherwise the jukebox is doing great! I have all the electrical/electronic/mechanical things working perfectly (Thanks to the good folks help at Phonoland)

Thanks for asking!

Broken-Glass-sm.jpgBroken-Glass-sm.jpg

#25 10 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Time to bust out the meter.

yea, i think so... i *think* there may be two issues at work here...

i "may" be getting somewhere, although i'm not sure where that might be yet...

i dissassembled, cleaned, lubed and reassembled the fs relay... when manually stepping through the relay in a "game over" state, the following happens (btw, they could have made that thing smaller )...

relay position/light in glass

0 90
1 80
2 70
3 60
4 50
5 40
6 30
7 20
8 10
9 00

this may be "correct" behaviour, but that doesn't seem right to me... :confused: that's possible issue number 1...

i then put the game to ball 5, and put the relay in the correct "logical" position for it to match based on what i'm seeing above (10's score reel at "0", stepper at "9", displays "00" in bg), then advanced the ball count to go to a game over state... no love...

thought a bit more... put the game to ball 5, put the relay at "0" and reel at zero (bg light is "90" at that point) and forced the game over state... still no love...

those two paragraphs seem to indicate a possible separate issue (not completing the advance credit circuit)...

#26 10 years ago
Quoted from SteveFury:

Please send me a crying towel.
The main display glass (see the pics) was peeling like an old pinball backglass. I had spent 2.5 days repairing it. Taping, painting, sealing, cleaning. It looked -really- great. It opens on the machine like a big car hood. I reattached it to the machine and not an hour passed before I lost grip and it slammed closed, cracking the glass top to bottom in two pieces.

The glass is very dangerous as it is now. A "new" authentic glass cost too much to justify so I am about to order a new blank glass and repaint it myself. It will be *almost* good as new. Probably another 3 days of glass painting work. Otherwise the jukebox is doing great! I have all the electrical/electronic/mechanical things working perfectly (Thanks to the good folks help at Phonoland)
Thanks for asking!

i will send you my crying towel when i'm done with it...

wow, now THAT must have been a fun shop job, cleaning out all those mechs... aw man, that sucks about the glass... i would have been very sad...

i hear you on the cost of the original glass... "cosmetic" parts for those things cost a fortune... i have a seeburg "trashcan" re-purposing project that has been going on for a long time, and one of the big things stopping me from completing it is that the two big plastics on the front cost 300 bucks... that's too painful...

i wanna see pics of it when you are done, i think old jukes are way cool...

#27 10 years ago

This is the way I would *personally* do the troubleshooting. I wouldn't use a meter because a meter doesn't put very much load across switches, and a dirty/carboned switch may not show up. Instead I use a pair of 12v automotive lamps (blinker lamps) connected in series so they will handle the machines ~25v, with a long wire lead and clips on the ends. The lamps provide a pretty good load for testing purposes.

TST-A
First I would connect the lamp(s) as in picture test-a.
This is about in the middle of the match circuit and is quick and easy to get to. Depending on the outcome, I can know which way to proceed in testing.

One lead from the lamps clips onto the common buss. This buss is extremely easy to find anywhere in the machine because (In almost all cases) all solenoids and relays connect to it throughout the game.

The other lead clips onto the common of the bakelite of the score reel. At this point, a pulse (lamp flash) should always occur at the end of every game (Regardless whether or not the match relay and score reel numbers match)
TST-A.jpgTST-A.jpg
TST-B.
If the lamp flashes then the problem is in the score reel or match relay. I'd set the score reel to a specific number before ending a game, then clip onto that numbers bakelite switch terminal (In this case the blue wire), end the game and see if my test lamp flashes.
TST-B.jpgTST-B.jpg
TST-C.
If the lamp failed to flash in TST-A then I'd work my self back toward the outhole relay. (First the score motor, then the last ball relay then the outhole relay)
TST-C.jpgTST-C.jpg

#28 10 years ago

@steve...

i can handle that... off to the hardware store to get 2 12v lights...

thanks!

#29 10 years ago

a further update... i played a few games while waiting foe my wife to compile a shopping list...

light in bg is "10", number on score reels is "7"... and it awarded a match credit...

#30 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

light in bg is "10", number on score reels is "7"... and it awarded a match credit...

At least you know it works.

#31 10 years ago

Either the contact wiper thingy on the score reel or the one on the FS relay (call it the Match Unit) is incorrectly installed. The ones on the match unit are adjustable by about one "step" position.

#32 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

At least you know it works.

yea, that's a start...

Quoted from MrBally:

Either the contact wiper thingy on the score reel or the one on the FS relay (call it the Match Unit) is incorrectly installed. The ones on the match unit are adjustable by about one "step" position.

yea, probably... and i'm guessing it's the one on the score reel... the one on the match unit does not appear as if it can be installed "wrong", but that doesn't mean i didn't figure out a way to do it wrong... it slides into a slot on the "axle" (for lack of a better term) of the stepper, and unless i'm missing something, it can't go on a "wrong" way (well... i suppose you could put it with the contact points "up" instead of "down")... the 2 contact points on that are opposed by 180 degrees, and since they only serve to connect a "number" to a "common", it wouldn't matter which way you slid it onto the axle...

#33 10 years ago

I'm liking MrBallys advice. I just couldn't bring myself to tell you to start switching wires.

#34 10 years ago

WOOT!!!! success!!!

as df mentioned earlier, and mrbally reinforced, it was the wiper switch on the score reel... once i positioned it correctly, CRACK goes the knocker...

i ran it through every position on the 10's reel to test, and sure enough, using the table i posted above, it matched "correctly" to the bg number on every one...

i'm happy... thanks to everyone who chipped in to help me get this working... a "virtual" beer on me for all of you... i've said this quite a few times, but i could never have made this machine work without youse guys...

the machine must be happy too, as it let me roll it over twice during the test game i played to make sure i didn't hose something else up by fixing this...

that being said... i'm a curious soul... riddle me this batman...

why did they not just make "1" on the disk be "10" on the match, vs. what i laid out in that table ("8" on the disk means match on "10")? that seems rather odd to me?

#35 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

I'm liking MrBallys advice. I just couldn't bring myself to tell you to start switching wires.

yea, you know how much i like to desolder/resolder wires...

#36 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

WOOT!!!! success!!!

Good! Now here's your next project-
ebay.com link: itm

#37 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Good! Now here's your next project-
Ebay link

lol... actually, i sent that guy an email about that asking if he'd consider a cash offer (as well as the guy selling the soccer)... i'm hoping both bite, if they do, i'll go get that one for me and the soccer for bert...

the seven up guy should bite if he thinks about it for a few minutes, as my offer is essentially his price minus ebay and paypal fees... the soccer guy should as well if he thinks a bit about the actual condition of the machine...

#38 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

a "virtual" beer on me for all of you...

Like us at the bar.

Beer.gifBeer.gif

#39 10 years ago

Here is the ancient score reel that I am currently messing with. The Magic Clock has a
broken spring.

DSCN1751.JPGDSCN1751.JPG

#40 10 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Like us at the bar.

york is coming soon...

#41 10 years ago

@o-din...

that doesn't look like it's a real thrill to work on...

#42 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Here is the ancient score reel that I am currently messing with. The Magic Clock has a
broken spring.

Bend the first loop it should get you up and running, unless it broke further in.

#43 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

that doesn't look like it's a real thrill to work on...

Actually, the older the better. Very simple until you need parts. And yes I already bent the spring. Of course now that it's out and the backbox is open, where does it end? Oh hell, I'm just gonna put it back in and play this sucker until the next thing breaks.

#44 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

yea, you know how much i like to desolder/resolder wires...

Go for the gusto,find a score reel connector thats cracked and direct solder it.

CC_SS_help_(1).JPGCC_SS_help_(1).JPG CC_SS_help_(2).JPGCC_SS_help_(2).JPG CC_SS_help_(3).jpgCC_SS_help_(3).jpg

#45 10 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Go for the gusto,find a score reel connector thats cracked and direct solder it.

You mean some of these have connectors? The lower picture is what all of mine look like!

#46 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

You mean some of these have connectors? The lower picture is what all of mine look like!

The dreaded Chicago Coin "modern" score reels with Bally numeric "font". Thank you Sam & Gary Stern. From the Chicago Coin Machine Division of Chicago Dynamic Industries. 1725 Diversey Parkway in Chicago, Illinois

#47 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

You mean some of these have connectors? The lower picture is what all of mine look like!

My brothers Chicago coin Sound Stage has that cheap plastic connector,not sure if other manufacturers do it though.

#48 10 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Go for the gusto,find a score reel connector thats cracked and direct solder it.

i think if i hadda solder all those connectors i'd go completely crazy...

#49 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Actually, the older the better. Very simple until you need parts. And yes I already bent the spring. Of course now that it's out and the backbox is open, where does it end? Oh hell, I'm just gonna put it back in and play this sucker until the next thing breaks.

ah, i gotcha...

play it!!!

#50 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

i think if i hadda solder all those connectors i'd go completely crazy...

The key is to apply some solder to the tracer then the wire, apply a little solder snot to each.
Then with needle nose pliers press lightly together while heating the two till it melts together and by all means do not sneeze!
Let it cool a few seconds till it sets and a tug for strength,finally off to the next one.
Remember to not cut too many wires as you will forget what sequence they go in.

And automatic wire strippers make it easier.

Wire_strippers_2.JPGWire_strippers_2.JPG

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