I picked up a disassembled project Mata Hari a couple weeks ago - this is the first time I'm trying to bring a pin back from the dead, so go easy on the noobie. Here's where I am:

- Replaced all original boards with Alltek's to get things up and running while I get the original boards checked out
- Repinned all connectors, including J4 on the SDB and J4 on the MPU twice to double-check solenoid connectivity/stability
- Fixed the transformer/Rottendog rectifier wiring, now gets proper voltage to all of the boards at their test points
- Machine now powers on, GI and control lights that aren't burned out working ok
- MPU boots
- When I Coin Up, Left Slingshot fires instead of a Chime
- When I start a game, the Bottom Right Thumper Bumper solenoid freaks out and pops repetitively
- Going into Test Mode for the solenoids, many don't fire and many fire twice (see the picture below - the first column is the expected solenoid firing order, and the last column is what the machine is actually doing). The Bottom Right Thumper Bumper does not pop repetitively in Test Mode like it does in a started game.

I'm pretty confident in the pins I made (and I don't have any more connectors on hand to do it a third time this weekend) - can this coil addressing issue be caused by anything else? The coils are daisy-chained, right? Can a bad diode on one or more coils cause addressing issues? Is there a programmatic way to determine the offending coil(s)? I've not yet pulled out any coils or changed any diodes....I suppose I need to learn but I am trying to avoid shotgunning all of them.

Does the chart with the expected vs. actual firing order offer any clues?

Thanx in advance for any help/guidance!

Solenoid Firing Test (resized).jpg

dothedoo and Quench - you guys ROCK.

Many thanx for the logic state map you drew out....makes perfect sense. I pulled out the J4 SDB connector and J4 MPU connector and put row of stake header pins in each to mimic them plugged into their respective PCBs, then checked continuity using the underside of the stake headers. Sure enough, the PB3 line was open. I pulled the PB3 wire from each of the connector housings and checked continuity pin to pin directly - worked. I then took a closer look at the pins and the one that was in the SDB connector housing looked goofy/crushed (see pic below)...that's why there was no continuity when the connector housing was plugged into the test stakes or the PCB. I must've crimped the end part when I repinned that wire originally.

I repinned that one end again, put everything back, and bingo. The 10K Chime won't fire, but all of the other coils now work! Started a game and I've got a few stuck switches to figure out (plus the 10K Chime) but this is a great leap forward.

Thanx again, gents.
Kris

PB3 Pin.jpg

Quench - do you mind if I hit you up with another noobie question on my next issue in this Mata Hari? The 1K Chime solenoid isn't firing (I said 10K earlier but it's the 1K). The solenoid itself is a bit toasty on the wrapper. The plunger moves freely, not frozen. I'm getting ~45VDC on both lugs of each of the chimes except the 1K. On the 1K chime solenoid, I'm getting ~45VDC on one lug and 1.5VDC on the other lug. I traced the 1K chime wire from the lug back to J2-11 on the SDB and it's good in and out of the J2 connector housing.

Replace coil? Could a bad diode cause this (I have a roll of spare diodes but I'd need to order some solenoids)?

Thanx,
Kris

Chime Coils MH1.jpg

Thanx, guys. CN-31-2000 is hard to find today (out of stock at Marcos, BAM, and Action Pinball. Game Room Guys will graciously sell ONE for $22 plus shipping. I found one from The Pinball Wizard for $11 plus $9 priority shipping - I just ordered it.

Hoping I didn't blow the SDB transistor - it's a brand new Alltek. I'll put in the new coil next weekend and cross the transistor bridge if I have to then. The coil was toasty looking before I started working on this project, so I'm hoping if it did take out the transistor it took out the one on the original SDB that I pulled (I put in Allteks for the MPU, SDB, and Lamp board to get the game up and running and at some point I'll send the original board set in for repairs/bullet proofing).

New coil arrived today a day earlier than expected - put it in, all solenoids now work ok. No issue with the SDB. Thanx all for your assistance...this is such a great resource for newbies teaching themselves how to fix/maintain this stuff!

New Chime Coil in MH1 (resized).jpg

Likely both...bad transistor fried the coil, then on the second board the fried coil took out the transistor.