(Topic ID: 235232)

Mata Hari Solenoids - Addressing Problem?


By Mathazar

5 months ago



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  • 10 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Mathazar
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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New Chime Coil in MH1 (resized).jpg
Chime Coils MH1.jpg
PB3 Pin.jpg
Solenoid Firing Test (resized).jpg

#1 5 months ago

I picked up a disassembled project Mata Hari a couple weeks ago - this is the first time I'm trying to bring a pin back from the dead, so go easy on the noobie. Here's where I am:

- Replaced all original boards with Alltek's to get things up and running while I get the original boards checked out
- Repinned all connectors, including J4 on the SDB and J4 on the MPU twice to double-check solenoid connectivity/stability
- Fixed the transformer/Rottendog rectifier wiring, now gets proper voltage to all of the boards at their test points
- Machine now powers on, GI and control lights that aren't burned out working ok
- MPU boots
- When I Coin Up, Left Slingshot fires instead of a Chime
- When I start a game, the Bottom Right Thumper Bumper solenoid freaks out and pops repetitively
- Going into Test Mode for the solenoids, many don't fire and many fire twice (see the picture below - the first column is the expected solenoid firing order, and the last column is what the machine is actually doing). The Bottom Right Thumper Bumper does not pop repetitively in Test Mode like it does in a started game.

I'm pretty confident in the pins I made (and I don't have any more connectors on hand to do it a third time this weekend) - can this coil addressing issue be caused by anything else? The coils are daisy-chained, right? Can a bad diode on one or more coils cause addressing issues? Is there a programmatic way to determine the offending coil(s)? I've not yet pulled out any coils or changed any diodes....I suppose I need to learn but I am trying to avoid shotgunning all of them.

Does the chart with the expected vs. actual firing order offer any clues?

Thanx in advance for any help/guidance!

Solenoid Firing Test (resized).jpg
#2 5 months ago

Pretty classic symptoms of a break between MPU J4 pins 1-4 and SDB J4 pins 3-6.

Test continuity from the back of both boards to verify wiring, pins and headers.

#3 5 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Does the chart with the expected vs. actual firing order offer any clues?

Yes, the chart very much points to the problem.

As dothedoo mentioned, there are 4 signals from the MPU board to the SDB that select specific momentary solenoids to activate.
These signals are marked PB3, PB2, PB1 and PB0 on the schematic from the MPU board at connector J4 pins 1, 2, 3, and 4 respectively. They go to the SDB on J4 pins 3, 4, 5 and 6 respectively.
Below is the binary logic state of these signals (derived from the SDB schematic) showing what solenoids their combination activates.
Mapping out which solenoids are firing in the wrong order from your table, your problem specifically indicates that signal PB3 is stuck on a logic high "1" state at the SDB meaning there is an open circuit on this wire signal.
It's a red-white wire and it comes from MPU board connector J4 pin 1 and the destination is the SDB connector J4 pin 3. Check/reterminate the terminals on both ends - also check the soldering on the J4 pin header on the back of the solenoid driver board.

PPPP
BBBB
3210
==========================
0000 Saucer
0001 Chime 10
0010 Chime 100
0011 Chime 1000
0100 Chime 10000
0101 Knocker
0110 Outhole
0111 Pop Bumper Bottom Left
1000 Pop Bumper Top Left
1001 Pop Bumper Top Right
1010 Pop Bumper Bottom Right
1011 Slingshot Left
1100 Drop Target Reset Left
1101 Slingshot Right
1110 Drop Target Reset Right
1111 --

#4 5 months ago

dothedoo and quench - you guys ROCK.

Many thanx for the logic state map you drew out....makes perfect sense. I pulled out the J4 SDB connector and J4 MPU connector and put row of stake header pins in each to mimic them plugged into their respective PCBs, then checked continuity using the underside of the stake headers. Sure enough, the PB3 line was open. I pulled the PB3 wire from each of the connector housings and checked continuity pin to pin directly - worked. I then took a closer look at the pins and the one that was in the SDB connector housing looked goofy/crushed (see pic below)...that's why there was no continuity when the connector housing was plugged into the test stakes or the PCB. I must've crimped the end part when I repinned that wire originally.

I repinned that one end again, put everything back, and bingo. The 10K Chime won't fire, but all of the other coils now work! Started a game and I've got a few stuck switches to figure out (plus the 10K Chime) but this is a great leap forward.

Thanx again, gents.
Kris

PB3 Pin.jpg
#5 5 months ago

quench - do you mind if I hit you up with another noobie question on my next issue in this Mata Hari? The 1K Chime solenoid isn't firing (I said 10K earlier but it's the 1K). The solenoid itself is a bit toasty on the wrapper. The plunger moves freely, not frozen. I'm getting ~45VDC on both lugs of each of the chimes except the 1K. On the 1K chime solenoid, I'm getting ~45VDC on one lug and 1.5VDC on the other lug. I traced the 1K chime wire from the lug back to J2-11 on the SDB and it's good in and out of the J2 connector housing.

Replace coil? Could a bad diode cause this (I have a roll of spare diodes but I'd need to order some solenoids)?

Thanx,
Kris

Chime Coils MH1.jpg
#6 5 months ago

That bottom coil is toasted and should be replaced.

#7 5 months ago

Agreed, looks like a fried coil. That would explain why you had 45v in but no 45v out from the coil. You can check the coil for resistance/ohms with your DMM and compare the readings with the other 2 coils next to it. I would also check the transistor that controls that coil. It may have locked on, causing the coil to burn up. Coils don't usually do that spontaneously, something likely caused that.

#8 5 months ago

Thanx, guys. CN-31-2000 is hard to find today (out of stock at Marcos, BAM, and Action Pinball. Game Room Guys will graciously sell ONE for $22 plus shipping. I found one from The Pinball Wizard for $11 plus $9 priority shipping - I just ordered it.

Hoping I didn't blow the SDB transistor - it's a brand new Alltek. I'll put in the new coil next weekend and cross the transistor bridge if I have to then. The coil was toasty looking before I started working on this project, so I'm hoping if it did take out the transistor it took out the one on the original SDB that I pulled (I put in Allteks for the MPU, SDB, and Lamp board to get the game up and running and at some point I'll send the original board set in for repairs/bullet proofing).

#9 5 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Thanx, guys. CN-31-2000 is hard to find today

For future reference, the Pinball Resource appear to have this coil for $10.00 each.

http://www.pbresource.com/coilbly.html

#10 5 months ago

New coil arrived today a day earlier than expected - put it in, all solenoids now work ok. No issue with the SDB. Thanx all for your assistance...this is such a great resource for newbies teaching themselves how to fix/maintain this stuff!

New Chime Coil in MH1 (resized).jpg
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