Mata Hari solenoid driver board/flipper issue

(Topic ID: 207178)

Mata Hari solenoid driver board/flipper issue


By crashpad

6 months ago



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  • 13 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by flynnibus
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ballyflipper (resized).JPG

#1 6 months ago

The flippers are dead; we put in an Alltek SDB from another pin I have and the flippers worked.

As a cheap troubleshoot/fix, I replaced the flipper relay, but that didn't bring them back to life.

Is there anything else I can be troubleshooting and possibly repair or is there too much else that could be wrong, go wrong that at this point I should just buy the Alltek replacement SDB?

Trying to just get it working inexpensively if possible before going replacement route.

Thanks!

#2 6 months ago

I think "q15" transistor powers that relay

I'll check on my Xenon

#3 6 months ago

Its usually just cold solders to the pins on the connectors. Do you know if the relay is actually energizing? Here is the portion of the schematic.

Q15 and U4.

ballyflipper (resized).JPG

#4 6 months ago

its usually the pins where the flipper switch comes in and back out that are the problem. Check the header pins where the flipper switch comes in and back to the flipper coils.

The relay you should be able to hear click on

#5 6 months ago

So j1 pins 8 and nine... and j2 1 and 2

#6 6 months ago

If you put the game in solenoid test can you hear the relay click? If the relay is not clicking on check the 43v jumper wire on pin J3-5. I used to find the solder needed to be reflowed on that pin or the jumper was loose.

#7 6 months ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

If you put the game in solenoid test can you hear the relay click? If the relay is not clicking on check the 43v jumper wire on pin J3-5. I used to find the solder needed to be reflowed on that pin or the jumper was loose.

No, I don't believe I'm hearing anything when I do the solenoid test. I'll take another look at everyone's suggestions and see what turns up. Thanks!

#8 6 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

So j1 pins 8 and nine... and j2 1 and 2

Thanks – I'll take a look

#9 6 months ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

Its usually just cold solders to the pins on the connectors. Do you know if the relay is actually energizing? Here is the portion of the schematic.
Q15 and U4.

No, I don't know if it's actually energizing...

#10 6 months ago

I looked hard at both options when my Fireball Classic messed up. Buy the board(s). If you like to play trouble free and move on to more important projects.
If you want to learn, or have plenty of time and patience and the tools, fix the board.
Still going to fix the original board, rather have the machine working while I get the procedure down.
I have a feeling its going to be similar to EM repair, better to check/repair everything at one time than try and piecemeal..

#11 6 months ago

I had a similar issue with my stern nugent(Stern and bally shared many parts). Right flipper was not working. Traced it down to broken solder joints on the plug leading to the relay on the driver board. Reflowed the solder and everything has been fine since. Actually I found a total of 15 cracked solder and reflowed them all.

#12 6 months ago
Quoted from phil-lee:

I looked hard at both options when my Fireball Classic messed up. Buy the board(s). If you like to play trouble free and move on to more important projects.
If you want to learn, or have plenty of time and patience and the tools, fix the board.
Still going to fix the original board, rather have the machine working while I get the procedure down.
I have a feeling its going to be similar to EM repair, better to check/repair everything at one time than try and piecemeal..

I eventually plan on tearing it down and doing a complete restore as a learning experience, but since I have the time to tinker for now, will take that option of trying to fix the board first. Thanks for the recommendation.

#13 6 months ago
Quoted from crashpad:

I eventually plan on tearing it down and doing a complete restore as a learning experience, but since I have the time to tinker for now, will take that option of trying to fix the board first. Thanks for the recommendation.

Just visualize what is going on..

Normally a coil has a hot side tied to high voltage (+43 VDC in this case)... and the ground size is driven by a switch or transistor to connect to ground. When the circuit is complete to ground.. coil fires.

The ground side in this case, is driven by the flipper switch. But because we want the game to be able to KILL the flippers by CPU control.. instead of just going coil -> flipper switch -> ground... it goes coil -> SDB -> switch -> ground. The relay on the SDB acts as an extra switch to break the path... nothing more. So the signal comes in one connector, goes through the relay, and back out the other connector. The path passes through the SDB purely so the flipper relay can break the path when the game wants.

So if that path through the headers and relay is broken.. or the relay never closes.. the path isn't complete. You could even test this with continuity between the two header pins.. the one in, and one out for the same flipper. Then trace step by step to where you see the path break.

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