(Topic ID: 251820)

Mata Hari- Sluggish Pop Bumpers

By pindude80

4 years ago


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  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by slochar
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#1 4 years ago

The two main pop bumpers on my Mata Hari aren't very sensitive and aren't very strong when they do activate. Last weekend I cleaned and tightened up the switch gap but it didn't make much of a difference. When I was doing that I noticed the "stem" that goes into the pop bumper spoon has wore a hole in one of the spoons so obviously that will need to be replaced. I've never disassembled or done much work to pop bumpers other than switch adjustments. What parts are typically needed when someone is wanting to "revive" their pop bumpers?

I found a good image of the individual pop bumper components and have attached it.

poop bumper (resized).pngpoop bumper (resized).png
#2 4 years ago

Typically - new lamp socket, new coil sleeve, new spoon switch, new spring(s), new rod/ring if tarnished or threaded ends broken off one side, new metal yoke if broken, new pop bumper body if discolored or broken.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

Typically - new lamp socket, new coil sleeve, new spoon switch, new spring(s), new rod/ring if tarnished or threaded ends broken off one side, new metal yoke if broken, new pop bumper body if discolored or broken.

Cool, thanks! I was thinking of getting 2 of these. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-13123 I'm guessing that will take care of everything in the right picture and I would only need the spring and sleeve, which isn't listed, in the left picture and the spoon? What is the metal yolk?

#4 4 years ago

The wear parts are the spoon/pin, the metal yoke (you'll see it when you take it apart), and the lack of the #5 washer on the pop ring which causes extra wear on the yoke. Also, the coil sleeve, sometimes the plunger and coil stop. It probably just needs a good rebuild and clean. Also, the switches have probably been filed in the past by mistaken operators that were used to doing this from the EM days it being the early SS era. Replace those too.

It's a little time consuming the first couple times you do it but you can rebuild one pretty quickly once you do a couple. The biggest PITA is the lamp socket since you have to solder it in. On the plus side once you do this you probably won't ever need to do anything other than a quick clean and coil sleeve change ever again in the future.

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

The wear parts are the spoon/pin, the metal yoke (you'll see it when you take it apart), and the lack of the #5 washer on the pop ring which causes extra wear on the yoke. Also, the coil sleeve, sometimes the plunger and coil stop. It probably just needs a good rebuild and clean. Also, the switches have probably been filed in the past by mistaken operators that were used to doing this from the EM days it being the early SS era. Replace those too.
It's a little time consuming the first couple times you do it but you can rebuild one pretty quickly once you do a couple. The biggest PITA is the lamp socket since you have to solder it in. On the plus side once you do this you probably won't ever need to do anything other than a quick clean and coil sleeve change ever again in the future.

Ok, thanks. I would like to order all of the parts to rebuild it before I take it apart so the game isn't down any longer than it needs to be. Is the metal yoke the part that comes down and kicks the ball? Not a bad idea about replacing the switches also.

#6 4 years ago

Metal and fiber yoke, plunger, sleeve, rod+ring, return spring

#7 4 years ago

I figured out what the yoke is. Marco doesn't have a listing for the fiber yoke part # P-3656 as shown in the diagram, but they do say to use this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-5493 with the metal yoke they show for p-3656-5 https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-5492

Does anyone know if that fiber yoke is right/compatible for this era game?

#8 4 years ago

That doesn't look like the right fiber yoke to me, but if you want, you should be able to Dremel off some of the extra material to make it the right shape.

The metal yoke you linked is junk. Those are the type used in Williams games and they break easily. The Bally yoke has a rolled edge which makes them very strong. I doubt you will need to replace them.

Polish the rod/ring (or replace) and plunger until smooth, replace the coil sleeves and make sure you have good solid solder joints on the coils with no strands of wire frayed out

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

That doesn't look like the right fiber yoke to me, but if you want, you should be able to Dremel off some of the extra material to make it the right shape.
The metal yoke you linked is junk. Those are the type used in Williams games and they break easily. The Bally yoke has a rolled edge which makes them very strong. I doubt you will need to replace them.
Polish the rod/ring (or replace) and plunger until smooth, replace the coil sleeves and make sure you have good solid solder joints on the coils with no strands of wire frayed out

Thanks for the heads up on the metal yoke being junk and letting me know mine are probably in good shape. I had the same thought about trimming the fiber yoke to make it work if it wasn't the right size. I will double check the wire to coil connection and might even re-flow the solder.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Thanks for the heads up on the metal yoke being junk and letting me know mine are probably in good shape.

Case in point, this thread just started today.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/smoke-from-under-pf#post-5216825

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#11 4 years ago

Wow! I'm glad you told me to not replace what are probably good yokes with junk!

#12 4 years ago

The original williams style certainly aren't as robust as the gottlieb style, but they will work. 30 years is a long time for a part at any rate.... either/or. It's not "junk" - it's just different.

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