(Topic ID: 264725)

Mata Hari Player 1 & Match/Credit Display Stuck


By krustykramer

14 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by krustykramer
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 14 days ago

    Hi- I recently disassembled my working Mata Hari to restore the cabinet and have run into a couple of issues once I put humpty dumpty back together.

    In the test menu, all displays work correctly "111111, 222222, 333333, etc" but when I reset the game I can't get it to start - the player 1 & match/credits displays are locked at ".40..0" while the other displays properly cycle through last score & high score. I've attached a picture so you can see the display.

    Also, I noticed in the switch test menu thinks look a little funky when I run a test. Player 1 & match/credit windows show "0" while the other displays are dark but when I activate a switch the other displays (player 2, player 3, & player 4) all show the active switch. Video of this: https://www.icloud.com/photos/#0nkqlk8MH0yjvORKHmARmCPUA

    Thanks for your help and guidance!

    Also include a picture of the cabinet for funz...

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    #2 14 days ago

    FWIW I have a new Alltek MPU and when I swap player 4 & credit display the problem remains so I don't think it's a display issue.

    #3 14 days ago

    Had a similar issue years ago. Needed to clear the ram ie remove batteries and that solved my issue. I didn't have an altek... Do they have a reset button??

    #4 14 days ago
    Quoted from ScottoKong:

    Had a similar issue years ago. Needed to clear the ram ie remove batteries and that solved my issue. I didn't have an altek... Do they have a reset button??

    Great idea and reset the MPU but the issue still exists. It is now flashing "0" in the player 1 & credit windows.

    #5 14 days ago

    Nice cabinet. Did you set the Altek board to free play? How does J4 plug look at the Altek board? If the original had battery damage, I’ve seen it crawl into the pins on the J4 connector, so it’s worth looking to see if any of those pins are green.

    #6 14 days ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    Nice cabinet. Did you set the Altek board to free play? How does J4 plug look at the Altek board? If the original had battery damage, I’ve seen it crawl into the pins on the J4 connector, so it’s worth looking to see if any of those pins are green.

    yes - game is set to free play but something is stuck that that controls the player 1 display & credit display since they continue to display the same thing.

    The game played fine before I took it apart so I think the connectors are good. Voltage to MPU TP's is 4.7. Attached a picture of the board.

    The cabinet came out great - it's closer to red than the original orange/red but I like it!

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    #7 14 days ago

    I’m not sure where to go from here. Have you tried a reset on the Altek board?

    You might try resetting all the switches in case one isn’t quite making.

    Do you have another machine to try the Altek board in to see if the issue is with the board?

    #8 14 days ago

    I’m not sure how to reset the switches but I can figure it out. I reset the Alltek board and unfortunately I don’t have another game I can try the boards in.

    I also noticed during testing the knocker solenoid is much weaker than it was before I took the game apart. Pop numbers, flippers, drop targets all look good.

    #9 14 days ago

    That whole top leg of lights on your panel is out because of the thick green wire plugging into the power supply board. I’m wondering if it’s a low voltage thing because of a short or a connector issue.

    This wire will bring your lights back by the way

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    #10 14 days ago

    Which boards should be tested for voltage? just the MPU?

    The lights on the top leg were working but went out. Must be a loose connection?

    Thank you for the guidance and I’ll test voltage tomorrow.

    #11 14 days ago

    MRM - I don’t know how you saw that. On my phone, I don’t even see any of that. Good catch. Makes me think there may be other connector issues.

    #12 13 days ago

    I'm going replace the J3 20 pin connector to the backbox but I only have 10 pin connectors laying around. This may be a stupid question but can I use two 10 pin connectors as long as they are labeled properly?

    #13 12 days ago

    I installed new connectors on the rectifier board & solenoid board but still have the issue. FWIW at the startup menu "30 0" is displayed on the credit register & player 1 - billc479 & mrm_4

    That said, I have found two issues during the self test:
    1) solenoid test - knocker is very weak - prior to disassembly it was very loud
    2) switch test - "0" flashes on Player 1 & the credit register & the other player windows are blank. if you activate a switch, player 1 & credit register go blank and the switch number is displayed on player 2, 3, & 4 windows. I don't recall what's supposed to happen if the game is working properly.

    Any ideas or suggestion? thanks...

    #14 12 days ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    MRM - I don’t know how you saw that. On my phone, I don’t even see any of that. Good catch. Makes me think there may be other connector issues.

    That pic I posted was from mine. I had that exact same problem.

    #15 12 days ago

    There’s gotta be a bare wire touching something it’s not supposed to. Or maybe a ground issue.

    How do you have the altek installed? Is the ground screw in the bottom left corner?

    #16 12 days ago

    The altek is mounted on the plastic spacers as recommended in the manual. It doesn't say anything about a ground screw in the bottom corner. FWIW I get 4.74V & 44V on the two Altek test points.

    Any ideas on where to look for a possible bare wire? Playfield maybe? Not sure what I should be looking for!

    Thanks!

    #17 12 days ago

    Pretty sure you need to screw that side in.

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    #18 12 days ago

    As for the knocker I’m not seeing it on the switch matrix so that puts a hole in my theory.

    Did you double check to make sure the coil sleeve isn’t just gummed up? Want to rule out a mechanical issue before we dig too much into electrical.

    #19 12 days ago

    If I’m reading the manual correctly, the zero in switch test indicates there are no stock switches. If the ball is not installed, then this is good.

    I think your displays are operating properly. The Altek has decided to register 30 credits. If you want to reduce that, two options: A:switch Altek from free play, then start four player games, then switch off, repeat. Once it gets to a number you’re comfortable with, switch back to free play. B: Turn off the credit display option.

    Always power down before changing any switches, and yes, the Altek board needs that ground screw.

    Concerning using two 10 pin connectors - not a good idea. I am not sure how you could idiot proof it to keep both of them from being plugged in wrong. I would clean the existing twenty pin connector, and if it looks good, use it with new pins.

    If you don’t have the manual, go to IPDB and download the manual. Look closely at the connectors in line with the knocker, and remove and look at the pins in the connector. Let us know.

    #20 12 days ago

    Update - I think the issue is with the J3 connector on the solenoid board. If I wiggle the wires I'm able to get the player 1 to show the normal flashing "00" and can start a game. That said it's introduced another issue, the right flipper is stuck in the up position and doesn't respond. The right flipper button activates the left flipper?!

    Scoring, etc seems normal if i activate switches or targets.

    I have a new 25 pin connector on order and will update y'all once I replace it. Fingers crossed. Thanks!

    #21 12 days ago

    Can you post a couple up close clear pics of the boards and the connectors?

    #22 12 days ago

    sure- which boards?

    #23 12 days ago

    Is the right flipper stuck in the up position when power is off? If so, you have a mechanical issue, otherwise it’s electrical.

    I still keep coming back to connector issues is a big part of all these problems. I think MRM would like to see pics of all the boards, especially the SDB, rectifier board, And the connectors on the Altek board, especially J4.

    #24 11 days ago
    Quoted from krustykramer:

    Update - I think the issue is with the J3 connector on the solenoid board. If I wiggle the wires I'm able to get the player 1 to show the normal flashing "00" and can start a game. That said it's introduced another issue, the right flipper is stuck in the up position and doesn't respond. The right flipper button activates the left flipper?!
    Scoring, etc seems normal if i activate switches or targets.
    I have a new 25 pin connector on order and will update y'all once I replace it. Fingers crossed. Thanks!

    Still interested in seeing some up close shots of these connectors if you could

    #25 10 days ago

    I am now blowing by F3 fuse on the rectifier board so no power to the other boards. I need to address this issue before I can get back to where I was! Stay tuned and I'll post pictures soon. One step forward two steps back...

    Replacing BR2 first.

    #26 10 days ago

    I have a feeling some of your plugs are off/not in correctly(missed pin or something) on the Driver board. Before you power that thing up again you should post some pics all the plugs from different angles

    #27 7 days ago

    I am going to start a new thread since I replaced the rectifier board and repinned several things. Whole different issue now...

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