Mata Hari Player 1 &amp; Match/Credit Display Stuck

Hi- I recently disassembled my working Mata Hari to restore the cabinet and have run into a couple of issues once I put humpty dumpty back together.

In the test menu, all displays work correctly "111111, 222222, 333333, etc" but when I reset the game I can't get it to start - the player 1 & match/credits displays are locked at ".40..0" while the other displays properly cycle through last score & high score. I've attached a picture so you can see the display.

Also, I noticed in the switch test menu thinks look a little funky when I run a test. Player 1 & match/credit windows show "0" while the other displays are dark but when I activate a switch the other displays (player 2, player 3, & player 4) all show the active switch. Video of this: https://www.icloud.com/photos/#0nkqlk8MH0yjvORKHmARmCPUA

Thanks for your help and guidance!

Also include a picture of the cabinet for funz...

IMG_0865 (resized).jpg

IMG_0872 (resized).jpg

#2 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member

FWIW I have a new Alltek MPU and when I swap player 4 & credit display the problem remains so I don't think it's a display issue.

#3 4 years ago

GEE

ScottoKong

Inactive member

11y 29,650 142 9

Had a similar issue years ago. Needed to clear the ram ie remove batteries and that solved my issue. I didn't have an altek... Do they have a reset button??

#4 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member

Quoted from ScottoKong:
Had a similar issue years ago. Needed to clear the ram ie remove batteries and that solved my issue. I didn't have an altek... Do they have a reset button??

Great idea and reset the MPU but the issue still exists. It is now flashing "0" in the player 1 & credit windows.

#5 4 years ago

WFC

Billc479

Pinside+ Frequent

Nice cabinet. Did you set the Altek board to free play? How does J4 plug look at the Altek board? If the original had battery damage, I’ve seen it crawl into the pins on the J4 connector, so it’s worth looking to see if any of those pins are green.

#6 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member

Quoted from Billc479:
Nice cabinet. Did you set the Altek board to free play? How does J4 plug look at the Altek board? If the original had battery damage, I’ve seen it crawl into the pins on the J4 connector, so it’s worth looking to see if any of those pins are green.

yes - game is set to free play but something is stuck that that controls the player 1 display & credit display since they continue to display the same thing.

The game played fine before I took it apart so I think the connectors are good. Voltage to MPU TP's is 4.7. Attached a picture of the board.

The cabinet came out great - it's closer to red than the original orange/red but I like it!

IMG_0875 (resized).jpg

#7 4 years ago

WFC

Billc479

Pinside+ Frequent

I’m not sure where to go from here. Have you tried a reset on the Altek board?

You might try resetting all the switches in case one isn’t quite making.

Do you have another machine to try the Altek board in to see if the issue is with the board?

#8 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member

I’m not sure how to reset the switches but I can figure it out. I reset the Alltek board and unfortunately I don’t have another game I can try the boards in.

I also noticed during testing the knocker solenoid is much weaker than it was before I took the game apart. Pop numbers, flippers, drop targets all look good.

#9 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

That whole top leg of lights on your panel is out because of the thick green wire plugging into the power supply board. I’m wondering if it’s a low voltage thing because of a short or a connector issue.

This wire will bring your lights back by the way

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#10 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member

Which boards should be tested for voltage? just the MPU?

The lights on the top leg were working but went out. Must be a loose connection?

Thank you for the guidance and I’ll test voltage tomorrow.

#11 4 years ago

WFC

Billc479

Pinside+ Frequent

MRM - I don’t know how you saw that. On my phone, I don’t even see any of that. Good catch. Makes me think there may be other connector issues.

#12 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member

I'm going replace the J3 20 pin connector to the backbox but I only have 10 pin connectors laying around. This may be a stupid question but can I use two 10 pin connectors as long as they are labeled properly?

#13 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member

I installed new connectors on the rectifier board & solenoid board but still have the issue. FWIW at the startup menu "30 0" is displayed on the credit register & player 1 - Billc479 & mrm_4

That said, I have found two issues during the self test:
1) solenoid test - knocker is very weak - prior to disassembly it was very loud
2) switch test - "0" flashes on Player 1 & the credit register & the other player windows are blank. if you activate a switch, player 1 & credit register go blank and the switch number is displayed on player 2, 3, & 4 windows. I don't recall what's supposed to happen if the game is working properly.

Any ideas or suggestion? thanks...

#14 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from Billc479:
MRM - I don’t know how you saw that. On my phone, I don’t even see any of that. Good catch. Makes me think there may be other connector issues.

That pic I posted was from mine. I had that exact same problem.

#15 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

There’s gotta be a bare wire touching something it’s not supposed to. Or maybe a ground issue.

How do you have the altek installed? Is the ground screw in the bottom left corner?

#16 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member

The altek is mounted on the plastic spacers as recommended in the manual. It doesn't say anything about a ground screw in the bottom corner. FWIW I get 4.74V & 44V on the two Altek test points.

Any ideas on where to look for a possible bare wire? Playfield maybe? Not sure what I should be looking for!

Thanks!

#17 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

Pretty sure you need to screw that side in.

5D76EB95-A9C4-4293-B810-188DF60E452D (resized).jpeg

#18 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

As for the knocker I’m not seeing it on the switch matrix so that puts a hole in my theory.

Did you double check to make sure the coil sleeve isn’t just gummed up? Want to rule out a mechanical issue before we dig too much into electrical.

#19 4 years ago

WFC

Billc479

Pinside+ Frequent

If I’m reading the manual correctly, the zero in switch test indicates there are no stock switches. If the ball is not installed, then this is good.

I think your displays are operating properly. The Altek has decided to register 30 credits. If you want to reduce that, two options: A:switch Altek from free play, then start four player games, then switch off, repeat. Once it gets to a number you’re comfortable with, switch back to free play. B: Turn off the credit display option.

Always power down before changing any switches, and yes, the Altek board needs that ground screw.

Concerning using two 10 pin connectors - not a good idea. I am not sure how you could idiot proof it to keep both of them from being plugged in wrong. I would clean the existing twenty pin connector, and if it looks good, use it with new pins.

If you don’t have the manual, go to IPDB and download the manual. Look closely at the connectors in line with the knocker, and remove and look at the pins in the connector. Let us know.

#20 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member

Update - I think the issue is with the J3 connector on the solenoid board. If I wiggle the wires I'm able to get the player 1 to show the normal flashing "00" and can start a game. That said it's introduced another issue, the right flipper is stuck in the up position and doesn't respond. The right flipper button activates the left flipper?!

Scoring, etc seems normal if i activate switches or targets.

I have a new 25 pin connector on order and will update y'all once I replace it. Fingers crossed. Thanks!

#21 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

Can you post a couple up close clear pics of the boards and the connectors?

#22 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member

sure- which boards?

#23 4 years ago

WFC

Billc479

Pinside+ Frequent

Is the right flipper stuck in the up position when power is off? If so, you have a mechanical issue, otherwise it’s electrical.

I still keep coming back to connector issues is a big part of all these problems. I think MRM would like to see pics of all the boards, especially the SDB, rectifier board, And the connectors on the Altek board, especially J4.

#24 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

OP
Quoted from krustykramer:
Update - I think the issue is with the J3 connector on the solenoid board. If I wiggle the wires I'm able to get the player 1 to show the normal flashing "00" and can start a game. That said it's introduced another issue, the right flipper is stuck in the up position and doesn't respond. The right flipper button activates the left flipper?!
Scoring, etc seems normal if i activate switches or targets.
I have a new 25 pin connector on order and will update y'all once I replace it. Fingers crossed. Thanks!

Still interested in seeing some up close shots of these connectors if you could

#25 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member

I am now blowing by F3 fuse on the rectifier board so no power to the other boards. I need to address this issue before I can get back to where I was! Stay tuned and I'll post pictures soon. One step forward two steps back...

Replacing BR2 first.

Post last edited 4 years ago: “added what i'm doing to address issue”

#26 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

I have a feeling some of your plugs are off/not in correctly(missed pin or something) on the Driver board. Before you power that thing up again you should post some pics all the plugs from different angles

#27 4 years ago

???

krustykramer

Pinside member