(Topic ID: 118873)

Mata Hari Help Please !


By djjennie

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by JKnPA
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

One image has been uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

mata hari switch.JPG

#1 4 years ago

My Switches under my drop targets on the game Mata Hari need to be replaced there are no part numbers in the manual for me to to call marco and give them does anyone know what they are and where to find them ? Actually id like to rebuild the whole target assembly springs and all but can't find that either so if anyone has information on this i would really appreciate it
Thanks
Jenn

mata hari switch.JPG
#2 4 years ago

Why do you need to replace the switches? They don't usually go bad unless someone filed them. Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to understand the problem.

#3 4 years ago

What is the problem w/your Mata Hari?. Might can be fixed w/o new switches. I have 5 Ballys of that vintage and none have needed switch replacement. Adjustments and cleaning yes.

#4 4 years ago

Not answering your question but as a person with 6 games of that era, I have purchased a spare 4 bank assembly to be used for spare parts if necessary. Not cheap but you never know what you might need...

#5 4 years ago

There looks like plenty of meat left on those contacts, but if you need, PBR is your dealer.

#6 4 years ago

Well the game was working great then all of a sudden it started scoring like crazy giving me 500 points forever and advance bonus all the way to the max. i noticed as i was playing it that this only happened when i hit the first two targets on the left bank so i looked at the switches and everything looked good however a made an adjustment that i thought might help but it didn't. confused and frustrated i started screwing around then i also noticed that if i tapped on the playfield it would score like crazy so i checked the switches out again adjusted them and still the same problem then i thought ah-ha maybe a bad diode so i changed the diode on the two switches and still the same problem so im like hmmm ok then i took the first two switches and made them so the would not make contact and see what happened then and the game played perfect as soon as i got all the targets down i lifted the playfield manually reset the targets it scored the 50,000 points as it should have then i continued to play the game again with perfect results. not convinced however that it was the switches possibly something else i played 15 games just like that with the glass off manually resetting the targets everytime i knocked them down and the game played perfect as long as the two target switches were adjusted NOT to work. after that i adjusted them back so they would work and the game went crazy again so i'm guessing it must be those two switches. i then called marco up asked if he had any and he said he needed a part number they couldn't find one on the website so i then looked into the manual and it didn't show any part number for those switches so i'm like damn guess i better go to pinside and see if anyone there can tell me a part number. of course if any of you have a better option i would be open to that so i'm all ears. with that being said i figured id just rebuild it all so it will last a long time that's why i was looking for the switches. i thank all of you for any input you have on this subject and even though i'm pretty good at fixing games it seems you never know enough and i love working on them almost as much as playing them thanks again to all
Jenn

#7 4 years ago

Is the solder tab touching the bracket on the first switch in the pic?

Is there any solder blobs or wire fines along the top of the two switches?

What does your meter say about the switches?

#8 4 years ago

too answer you questions no,no and no and it's reading fine everything looks good really so i'm thinking it's got to be those two switches

#9 4 years ago

So what is the switch reading when open?

What is it reading with the contacts closed?

#10 4 years ago

Do you have the original targets in the game or are have they been replaced?

#11 4 years ago

You may also want to make sure the "stiffening" leaf (between the switch "contact" blades) isn't shorting the switch closed...

#12 4 years ago

I had a similar problem and after going crazy for days, I found that the top tab of one of the switches was broken almost entirely off. It was hanging on by a thread. I carefully placed the tab back together making sure full contact was made and have not had any problems since.

2 weeks later
#13 4 years ago

Hey everyone!!

Thanks for trying to help me out. I am still having issues with this game and yes, it is still doing the same thing. I have been working a lot so I haven't been able to give you guys an update on it though.
Here is what I have done:

I replaced the molex going to the solenoid driver board, I replaced the solenoid driver board. Double checked the switches.

There appears to be some kind of short though that is connected to a lighting problem as well. Every now and then the general illumination lights on the left side ONLY go out and then they come back on after the ball bounces around. This is what led me to the molex. So I replaced the molex on the solenoid driver board, and yes it was repinned correctly (I'm really ocd about that) and then I started the game. Same problems, same issues.

This is driving me crazy, I don't know where else to look. Any suggestions?

Thanks again,

Jenn

#14 4 years ago

You mentioned earlier that if you tapped the playfield it would also start scoring, this could be a switch adjusted too close, common with pop bumpers, also might have a bad capacitor on one
of the switches associated with one of the suspected drop targets switches, check in the switch matix diagram, I would look there at this point.

#15 4 years ago

It is definitely a drop target switch since she said it advances bonus, pops don't advance. Drops don't have caps since they are a switch that stays closed and and don't have a short duration closure like a pop or stand up target.

Sounds like those two drop switches mentioned earlier are the culprit. They may be oxidized so they conduct unreliably. You could try cleaning them off with a scotchbrite so they are nice shiny gold, but don't go crazy because if you take the gold plating off they are worthless.

#16 4 years ago

There are insulator strips at the bottom of those switches. If they breakdown, the bottom switch
blade will be touching the chasis.
I'm sure that would cause all kinds of problems!
* I would insert some plastic or paper under that bottom switch blade to see if that is a problem.
** Not sure you checked that. If you did, just disregard that suggestion.
*** I also have a Mata Hari...... not sure when I will get to work on it.
John

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 155.00
$ 149.00
From: $ 159.95
$ 21.00
$ 157.00
From: $ 140.00
$ 149.95
Boards
Allteksystems
$ 7.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside