Mata Hari
Bally, 1978My targets do not reset to the Up position when a new game starts.
The unit arm seems to move freely ( ?) when I move it manually, so I don't think its a mechanical
problem.
I think its an electrical problem, but I don't understand how it Resets.
How does it Reset ?
J
Put the game into test mode and run the solenoid test. If one or both of the drop target reset coils do not fire, check under the game to make sure a wire has not fallen off one of the coil lugs. If the wiring looks correct, and the other coils fire correctly during the test, you might have a bad connection at the solenoid driver board in the backbox. Most likely cold solder joints on the board.
How it resets?
Game will reset the targets at the beginning of each game and the beginning of each new ball. It will also reset the targets when all 4 targets are down for a given bank.
Game will reset the targets at the beginning of each game and the beginning of each new ball. It will also reset the targets when all 4 targets are down for a given bank.
OK..... thank you.
I thought the solenoid fired every time a target was hit, so I was confused about the Reset.
I see now that the solenoid ONLY FIRES to Reset the target/s to the UP position.
It looks like the first target hit pushes the bar Down, so it can be Reset when the solenoid is fired.
OK...... Is that correct ?
Yes all down targets come to rest on the reset bar. Then the solenoid fires and they reset to upright.
Ok..... I see the light !....... 
Solenoids fire when I jumper-in a ground, but do not fire with the test switch.
* Sometimes the machine does not go into 'play mode', so I'm having trouble going forward
with my trouble-shooting....... Ugh ! 
I would start at the rectifier board (located in the backbox) mounted on the transformer and check your connectors and measure the power at each test point. If you see any that are brown/black you need to repin the connectors.
The PinWiki site has information on how to do this if you are not sure.
Next move to the solenoid driver board and examine the J3 connector for the same discoloration. It sounds like you are not getting reliable power to the MPU for it to boot properly. Once you have that we can diagnose why the coils are not firing during test or in game. Are the other coils working? Pop bumpers and sling shots?
I think I know what the problem is, but need verification from those of you who are
" SS gurus ".
The 'Mata Hari' MPU that came with this Pin did not 'boot Up', so I am using the MPU
from my " Strikes & Spares' and my ' 8 Ball" ( that seems to be ok).
I just realized the Mata Hari operation is not the same as the above two Pins. The U2 IC on the
Solenoid board(A3) drives different solenoids!
Ex: Pin1...... 0000 Not used on ' S&S' and '8 Ball'
0000 drives the Saucer on 'M. Hari'
pin13..... 1011 left sling on 'S&S',and '8 Ball'
1011 left drop target on 'M.Hari'
Pin14 .... 1100 right sling on 'S&S' and '8 Ball'
1100 right drop target on 'Mata Hari'
Pin 12..... Gnd.
***** Does this mean I need a different U2 ROM on my MPU to provide the correct input
info to the U2 binary-decimal decoder on the solenoid board(A3) ???
I assumed all the -17 MPU were the same, but I guess I was wrong!
Is this correct, or am I wrong ?
Quoted from Xenon75:You could move the roms from mata hari to the working 8 ball or strikes and spares.
You mean U2 and U6 ?
The Mata Hari board is a -35 MPU not a -17.
Ah, then most likely you would have to add jumpers to the -17 to support the rom size used. I would just fix the mata hari mpu and be done with it. what shape is it in?
******* I would just fix the Mata Hari mpu and be done with it. what shape is it in? *******
I think you are right. No sense undoing the 'Strikes & Spares' that definitely works and
the '8 Ball' that seems to be ok.
I have newly burned ICs that Andrew ( Barakandl) made for the -35 board, so I guess I
will go that route.
My M. Hari book list the MPU board as a -17, so I thought my above -17 boards would work;
that is what confused me. I believe note 1. on page 22 of the book explains the ROMs used on
the different Pins.
OK..... I will work on the -35 board and hope it 'boots -up'.
Thanks.
The -17 board would work fine in Mata Hari, provided that you had the correct ROM size/format that the -17 natively expects. The -17 & -35 are interchangable if you jumper the boards to the largest ROM size and just run ROMs at u2 and u6 like you mentioned. The -17 originally shipped with up to 4 ROMs and they were smaller in overall size per chip.
Right...... I'm working on the -35 board now. When I got this Pin, the Rectifier board(A2)
was toast and the transformer had a broken terminal( high voltage); and the
MPU board(-35) did not boot-up on a bench test.
I got a transformer and A2 board and rebuilt the board with the bigger rectifiers!
I got the new U2 and U6 ICs from Andrew.
* I actually have two -35 boards; of course they are jumpered differently....
John
Update.....
Installed new U2 and U6.
MPU did not 'boot-up'. LED flashes continuously.
I don't have U19 installed( need part); would that cause the above indication?
* When I short pins 39,40 0n U9 , it still keeps Flashing.
Does that mean it is not Reseting?
The sequence should be flicker (very quick blink) at power up, short pause, then 7 more blinks.
Is there a long pause after the 7th blink?
Is there another flicker anytime during the sequence?
If you short pins 39-40 and get a flicker, blink, blink, etc U9 is resetting itself properly.
Update......
MPU board on Hold for time being.
Replaced light sockets in backcase; testing light circuits / lamp driver board!
The U1-U4 ICs on the lamp driver board A5 have some degree of corrosion.
Most of the corrosion is on the legs of the ICs, not the backside.
What should I use to clean them ... Baking soda, Vinegar ?
I don't want to re-socket them unless its the last option.
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