(Topic ID: 157954)

Mata Hari Club - EM and SS - All Are Welcome

By VDrums2112

7 years ago


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  • 838 posts
  • 109 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Dono
  • Topic is favorited by 60 Pinsiders

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#590 3 years ago
Quoted from Randy_G:

could anyone tell me the style of drop targets (Tombstone style or Hooded style) that were original to Mata Hari
Red bull's eye ?

Original drop targets are tombstone.

3 months later
#634 3 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

My Mata Hari has an older Alltek board with a lithium battery. The battery is still working but it’s a few years old and I thought it might be time to change it. I don’t want to lose my high score or any settings. Do I need to keep the power on when I change the battery?

The Alltek revision J schematic says the RAM chip (with high scores) is powered by the power-supply when game power is on. So yes you should be able to swap the battery with the game on to prevent losing your highest score.
Make a note of what the highest score is anyway incase something goes wrong so you can manually set it again.

2 weeks later
#661 3 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyPinball:

why would the factory (Bally, Williams, etc.) have the contact points not facing each other? Human error, laziness, or designed that way?

Bally, Stern and Williams all had switches with one contact reversed, images from some of the parts catalog and some discussion below. Suffice to say all three manufacturers doing this can't be lazy or an error, it must be by design.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/77#post-5862714

1 year later
#724 1 year ago
Quoted from JDub03:

The lugs say for 120 I need to tie yellow to 5&7. As you can see from the pics. Red is tied to 1,3 and 5. Yellow is tied to 9&11. I found this very odd.

Besides odd, it's very wrong. There are two windings on the primary side of the transformer. The jumper from 1 to 5 is basically shorting one of the windings leaving the other primary winding to carry all of the current load which is risking damage.

Fix it per the manual as soon as you can.

5 months later
#761 1 year ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

22 volts at test point #5. It’s a newer Pinhead rectifier board. It was installed a few years ago.

Quoted from slochar:

sounds like the rectifier board might have a bad diode its bridge

^^^ this, what slochar said.
Half voltage is caused by an open circuit diode in the bridge rectifier for the solenoid power. All your coils including the flippers should be weak.

#764 1 year ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Just wondering could my machine gunning slingshot have caused the bridge to go bad? Shouldn’t a fuse have blown first? Bridge #1 is the one that’s bad.

I doubt it.

Bridge BR1 is for the feature lamps. BR3 is for the solenoids.

If you're putting a cap on the slingshot switch make sure the front leaf is bent far forward so there's less chance of the switch "reverbing". One cap on each side only, not on both switches of each side.

#766 1 year ago

Some classic Sterns have caps on the slingshot switches from factory. They will machine gun on Sterns if the switches aren't setup right.

7 months later
#799 5 months ago
Quoted from mrSATURN2012:

I dorked around and plugged in a connector wrong on the rectifier board. Now it blows F4 on the rectifier board on startup.

In order to understand the fault condition, we need to know what exactly you did to cause it.

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