I had the same problems with run away scoring on the drop targets. Drop them one at a time with your finger and see what switch it is. You either need to adjust the switch or replace the diode. I ultimately ended up just replacing every diode in both banks just because its a super easy fix and makes the game more reliable. I’d recommend getting a bunch of diodes and capacitors for under the playfield. Both are dirt cheap and solve a lot of weird problems the Mata Hari develops.

As for the chime and the door coil. More than likely a transistor on the board. I would rule out the connections were the coils are soldered to the wire first then test the transistor.

Thanks! Found a loose wire on the knocker and the coin door. Alligator clipped them and those now work - so time to solder a lil bit.

I’ll run thru the drops in a bit to see what those issues are.

Now for the 10k chime and she’s almost there!

I do notice a slight hum coming from the coin door solinoid (now that I had to clipped together). Once I remove the clip the noise goes away?

It does activate during the diagnostics as it’s supposed to. Just a loud hummmm. Maybe that’s why they had it disconnected? Not needed I guess for home use anyhow ?

Yeah that coil stays engaged to pull a lever to help the coin mechs work. After the max number of credits are on the machine that coil disengages so quarters wont pass through the mechs. I have mine set at 40 credits. But mine doesnt hum. Sometimes those parts just need slight adjustments or just cleaned up and that humming goes away.

Looks like I spoke too soon... Thought I’d hit one out of the park. Everything was working fine. I left her on while I went to get a burger. Came back after half an hour and the displays are out and no game again.
Looked over the fuses (closely this time) all look good.
There is a small fuse on the SDB that looked empty. I took it out and it was. Even one end cap came off. Silly question but is this a needed item (as in causing it not to reboot, never mind what caused the fuse to blow).
Reason I ask the cpu board small green light flashes with or without the fuse. Then nuttin

I am getting the 7 flashes on the cpu board if that helps. But no start up music after that like it was earlier. No booting up whatsoever ????

Don't rely on a visual inspection. Pull each fuse from the machine and check for continuity with your DMM. Be sure to check the under-the-playfield fuse as well. You'll probably get a lot more eyes (and help) if you post in the TECH: EARLY SOLID STATE sub-forum. There's not a whole lot of traffic in the Mata Hari club thread.

I had almost typed word for word what you said zombywoof then i saw a new post pop up before i sumbitted. I would definitely start something in the TSS forum if its not a fuse at this point.

Good points on all thanks!

Pulling them all and checking I’ve tried to put back what’s called for. But then I find in a 3a spot a 20a fuse. What’s up with that ? Lol. I guess they just put in what ever they had. But likely the case of any burnouts. Ugh

Maybe once I have found properly rated fuse in a project pin.
Always pull them all to verify rating & replace any questionable fuse holders..
In a Bally, this means replace them all. Bally fuse holders are garbage.

2 things for the club:

Has anyone installed a Mata Hari hardtop yet?

Also, has anyone checked out that topper that CPR made? They used a photo of Margaretha Geertruida instead of incorporating the playfield rendition of her, and the tiger looks like its yawning instead of roaring..... not sure if I like it. I've always thought about how to incorporate the real Mata Hari into the game and now that I see it Im kind of bummed out by it. Or maybe its the tiger that's getting me.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-toppers/mata-hari-3/

I'll probably buy it anyway because .... Mata Hari

oh, that looks sweet...but yeah, not like the one on the PF...and yeah, that tiger is yawning! Let me know how that turns out because...Mata Hari

--- & once again - just pulled the fuses out of my current Bally Amigo project. Four of five were massively over fused.

That topper is ok but could have been better.

Im going to tinker around and just make my own topper, screw it.

I don’t like the CPR topper. I’d be interested to see what you come up with.

My grandkids were here over the holidays, and asked me about the backglass. Here's what NOT to say.

The 8 YO granddaughter wanted to know why her underwear had holes in it - my answer was because she tooted a lot and needed the ventilation so her underwear would not be stinky all the time.
The boys (5 & 7) wanted to know why her pants were not pulled up all the way. I told them she was trying to be modern by not pulling up her pants.

Anyone else have similar questions from the little ones? Maybe better answers?

Well I took what "Phillyfan64" showed us with the LED's (although I just changed out the bulbs in the head, didn't add any strips, etc) and man did that make it pop! Love the look, to me it adds to the beauty. Photo's doesn't do it justice IMHO

MH W LEDs (resized).jpg

Looks good! Ive been thinking about putting one of those slowly color-changing LEDs behind the candelabra over Baron's left shoulder.

Hey, another item I found on this one when I was looking at another's interior photos. When I do the diagnostics, one of the solenoids not working is the 10k chime. Then I look inside...and the 2nd chime box is not even there! lol It looks like the wiring is there to extend from in the 2nd photo (if someone can confirm).

So if anyone knows where to find that, I'd like to get it just so the sounds are accurate.

As far as checking the other chime box, my extra large derriere couldn't fit in to get a good look, so I just pulled my camera and took some photos to see what was down there...surprise there too!

I've added 3 photos below, the last one, if you zoom in to the coil on the left - the wires look fried! Although it's still working! How? I'll pull that chime box off and re-install a conductor there as needed, just wonder if this may have caused any other issues?

MH Chime 1 (resized).jpg

MH Chime 2 (resized).jpg

MH Chime 3 (resized).jpg

Oh man... Yeah that whole set up is gone
Heres mine

Chimes (resized).jpg

ahhh, that is one clean machine! And yes, 2nd chime box, one coil and one larger chime bar...I'll find one somewhere!

Looks fantastic!

Followed your lead there my friend, thanks for the ideas!

What is the extra chime box for?

Its the deeper tone chime for 10,000 points
the other box holds 10, 100, 1000

The 10k one dings when you get all the drop targets or if the 50k out lane is lit.

Definitely worth trying. I had a fire led in there but it just wasn’t bright enough.

You’re welcome. I actually got the original color idea from eagle18 in the gameroom thread. The pinks/purples, reds and blues really makes it pop without being over the top.

Hey MRM_4 - any way you could take a measurement on that 10k bar length? I think I found a replacement box with one bar, but can't tell if it's the 10k chime bar, or if someone removed the 10's and 100's bar and this is actually a 1k bar left on it? Thinking the 10k bar would be a little longer? IDK

I guess if nothing else, I'll have the chime box and coil, and it'll still make a sound, but love it if it would be a different tone than the 1k chime I already have.

Here's what we have so far...(the photo title was labeled 1k chime, hence my hesitation)...but again, it's all there , just may have the wrong size chime bar?

Bally_1000pt_Chime (resized).jpg

IDK - looking at the photos (yours and this one), the way the chime bar over runs the ends of the attachment plate, the 1k bar doesn't extend that far past, so I'm thinking this is a 10k chime bar?? Thoughts/comments?

That looks correct, the 10k Chime is 7" long.

Thanks! I get this one totally working, maybe you come over and show me how to get a high score like that! I'm getting better on fixing, but still can't play worth a crap! lol My playfield also needs looked at. Looks like someone took various photos and patched it together. All still smooth for play, but you can see the lines, so it's not like a collector model or anything. Not bad enough to sink money into to replace, but thought I'd get someone's thoughts /opinions on what they did, how they did it? Like I said in an earlier post, it almost seems like a plastic coating, so maybe they clear coated this after playfield mods? Not experienced enough to know this stuff? But love the sound of this one when it fires up and during play. Can't wait to get that other chime now!

All components on the old playfield disassembled... steppers rebuilt, replaced all lamp sockets... ready to transfer onto my rescreened original playfield (I believe this original p/f was rescreened by CPR, and sent back to Gene Cunningham, who I purchased it from back in 2012)...regardless it’s a lovely cleared PF, and since it’s original, component alignment problems should be minimal/non-existent. The cabinet will be repainted due to flaking paint, but will wait for spring to tackle it... will be using Molotow spray cans with fat caps (signal red/signal yellow).

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Hi there, new to this site but wanted to thank all for all of the useful information and photos that helped me get my Mata Hari to the point it is today. It was given to me by a friend who had it stored in a storage unit for years. Due to a move he had to get rid of it. It’s been sitting for a long time so I decided to give it a go and freshen it up. Still needs work but this site has been inspirational! Thanks all.

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I was having a ghosting issue with the left pop bumper. It was just going off on it own. Checked and adjust switches and Found a leg broken off the small green capacitor Resoldered and all was ok. Then after say 10 games it started again. Kind of comes and goes. Not every game. Possibly a bad cap and I just need to replace it? Or the diode ? Suggestions ?

I would replace ALL switch caps.

Is there a std size I can order like the diodes or are there certain sizes for diff switches? Thanks!

0.047 uf 50
Replace all of them under the playfield like dasvis suggested. MAJOR DIFFERENCE!

6DF74F3A-E12A-4203-9ECE-042276EFC239 (resized).jpeg

Note that if you have older stock, they will be MUCH larger.

Love Mata Hari because it was the first pin that intimidated me by punishing me for stupid shots. Not the cruelest in that respect but a valuable lesson learned at age 15 in a bowling alley in Delaware, circa 1979. Donna Summer blaring on the jukebox.

Also just a beautiful machine with drop targets in the perfect place.

I have a similar experience as you playing Mata Hari in 1979 at age 15 also, only I was in a greasy Fish N' Chip shop on the other side of the world with cooking sounds & shouting instead of Donna Summer in the background!

Welcome to the club! Love this machine!

MRM_4 : does this look like the correct cap's? -

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/qyx1h473ktp1fd/nichicon

Just want to be sure before purchasing. (Free next day shipping form these guys and great prices)

Let me know, thanks!

They look like they have the right specs...
I believe this is where I got mine. Plus these have vid1900 's stamp of approval lol
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/ceramic-disc-capacitors/10-x-0-047uf-50v-ceramic-disc-capacitor-pkg-of-10.html

Found that the one leg on the cap wasn’t soldered as I’d thought. Resoldered and that was the issue. I did order a dozen so once received I’ll still change out

Also installed the chime box. Hooked everything up and although it does stroke when it’s suppsoed to, it is very weak. I cleaned the plunger and replaced the sleeve. Barely moves. Ideas?

Nice looking backglass on eBay.

ebay.com link: Bally Mata Hari Pinball Back Glass ORIGINAL

I'm guessing the contacts are pitted/dirty on the switch that energizes the weak coil? Try filing them clean.