I’m having the same flat sound with my Strikes and Spares on the long bar. The first thing I did was rebuild everything in the chimes including the plungers. Still was flat. I switched bars with Mata Hari, then MH was flat. So u just ground down the length of the long bar? I never thought of that. I’ll check the length of the long bar. The rest of the chimes on SS sound good. That flat sound bugs me too as my EK and MH have the sweetest sounds to them. Thanks

Yeah, just a light touch on one of these

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Came across a beautiful looking rare MH EM for sale in the FB Pinball Marketplace group for $5200 and thought I'd share: https://www.facebook.com/groups/958426214184968/permalink/5422957847731760/?sale_post_id=5422957847731760

Gameplay video:

I ground the bar down some and it got a lot better. Thanks for the info.

Cross posting my Mata Hari playfield here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/132088

Is anyone here running their Mata Hari SS with the Arduino code update? After the blast of fun I'm having with the Arduino board and 2021 code update on my Meteor, I'm thinking of updating my Mata Hari now, too. Does anyone have any links to video of the updated Mata Hari game play?

I got the board but it won’t work no matter what I do with my alltek. I really want to play it too.

That thing is gorgeous! Can’t beat Reese Rails.

Thanks. It really is gorgeous. No bites so far. I’m going to probably take it down. I really hate to sell it.

Apparently the Arduino code update is not complete as per the person who worked on it! The Dick Hamill code that is, unless there is another one

There are a couple of versions that run on the original boards.
Those are complete afaik.

slochar would it be a matter of swapping out roms then. Im fairly new to pinball. Would there be different rule sets with new roms. I built the arduino update board only to find out that the code was incomplete. I did manage to swap out a pintone canada sound board with a sparkfun wav trigger on my mata hari

Yes but the rules on the ones I'm familiar with are not really different. Maybe someone could finish up the Arduino one what's missing from it?

I’m hoping. The original author has left the incomplete config on github for anyone that wants to take a stab at it!

Picked one up at an estate sale a couple weeks ago. Went through everything and brought it back to life.

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Likely they were red finned. I don't think they made them in colors other than red and blue at the time.

Red fin. You can see some look orange-ish. Faded for sure.
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You might want to consider dying the original ones.. there are a lot of like colors to the original that may brighten them up and add a touch of color... Rit makes a few flavors of dye; I like their made-for-plastics line... works great on older colored posts. You can also control the darkness of the dyed color somewhat, depending how long you leave the posts in the dye bath. These aren't the greatest pix and I don't have any before/after, but I really liked the way the dye worked out.

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I put new red ones on mine when I did my hardtop. Really looks good with them on there.

Me too.

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Hey all. Have a question. I’m replacing a very burnt rectifier board. The lugs say for 120 I need to tie yellow to 5&7. As you can see from the pics. Red is tied to 1,3 and 5. Yellow is tied to 9&11. I found this very odd.

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Besides odd, it's very wrong. There are two windings on the primary side of the transformer. The jumper from 1 to 5 is basically shorting one of the windings leaving the other primary winding to carry all of the current load which is risking damage.

Fix it per the manual as soon as you can.

Having trouble deciding between an Outside Edge hardtop and a CPR new-process playfield.

Concerned I won't be happy with the print on the CPR, but then again, I don't know if I'd be happy with the print on a hardtop either because I think it might be the same process. Thoughts?

I have installed hardtops on an Eight Ball Deluxe and a Space Shuttlr. Ther art on both looked great. And a hell of a lot less expensive.

Di you do a coating spray after sanding? If so, acrylic or 2PAC?

No. I used a rolling pin with cotton sleeve and a lot of downward pressure after installation. The new adhesive on hardtops is strong as hell, and I've had no problems with lifting.

My 2 upper pops fire together during game play. In test mode, the switches for the pop skirts (39 and 40) register separately, and the coils fire independently too. Is this a bug in the Alltek code, or do all Mata Haris do this?

Adding pics of the assemblies. After browsing this thread, I think new capacitors might be needed. The diodes both test fine.

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Aha…I think this will solve my ghosting issue. Just ordered this: https://a.co/d/f5WnSfY

Great information in this thread.

Well, bummer. I replaced all 6 of the 0.047uF capacitors, and the 2 middle pops still fire together. Is that just expected for Mata Hari?

Mine fire independently during game play. Is there a cap on the tilt assembly on the left hand side of the cabinet where the roll tilt ball is?

Are you able to film it on your phone in slow motion? Wonder if it’s actually firing at the exact same time or if there is a slight delay that you would pick up in slo-mo

There’s one on the tilt bob, but not the other 2 tilt mechs. Tomorrow I’ll test every diode on every switch in that row (or column).

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Good idea, I’ll try that if the diode checks don’t turn up anything.

The problem is fixed! I’m kinda embarrassed to admit the problem: when I did the playfield swap, I got the left and right pop assemblies mixed up. I realized this when I bent one switch all the up so it couldn’t trigger. Triggering the adjacent skirt would fire that pop. I think the reason BOTH pops were firing is that I had the switches gapped too close, so the commotion above the inactive switch triggered the opposite pop.

Needless to say the game plays MUCH better with each skirt triggering its own pop.

It’s too quiet in here. Even though they’re a little beat up I’m thinking of putting the originals back in. The colors are just better. The flesh tones on the repros are just way too pale.

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It is funny how age can make pinball women look more tan. I’m running a Pinburgh-style tournament with 16 pins on Sunday, and Mata Hari will be the 2nd oldest game (oldest is Abra Ca Dabra). I’m still trying to decide which strategy works best: drops first, or saucer first.

Forget the drops they’re a trap! Hit the saucer three times (or 4 depending on settings for the 5X) then just work A and B until that dagger is maxed out! THEN go for drops

I’ll have to try this. I usually go for the drops first and it’s not working for me. My top score is still only around 750,000. She’s laughing at me!

I can hit the saucer reliably when the game’s at around 4.5 degrees, but I had it steeper for competitive play. I lowered the game last night so there’s about a 50/50 chance the ball plants itself in the saucer when it’s near enough. Agree that the first order of business should be lighting the outlines!

What I’ve found is when I aim for the outlanes and it dumps in the pops it’ll help me out with the saucer quite a bit.
That’s why I switched my strategy to just focusing on those 2 items. Some drops will get bumped along the way. But as soon as I get the bonus dagger maxed out then it’s just drops until I drain and then I listen for the knocker as the bonus counts down.

Dumpster save, lots of cleaning and a mpu.

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Seriously? WITH unbroken backglass too?
Nice score

Yes, playfield glass was broken. They had alread toss an E K solid state and smashed it with a trackhoe.

There’s a special place in hell for these sickos

I've been going saucer and A/B loops, and maybe pick off a drop if there is one or two standing.

I'm going to spend the next week of free time re-pinning every connector in the back box. Started to get some electrical gremlins showing up....one flipper won't fire, chimes not working etc. I hope to report back that everything is working well once the job is done.

Don't forget to do the connectors on the boards too!

I replace the IDC connectors in all my Ballys, and all 3 rectifier board connectors. It takes time, but saves so much aggravation later. If I’m not replacing the header pins, I go over them with 300 grit sandpaper.