(Topic ID: 157954)

Mata Hari Club - EM and SS - All Are Welcome

By VDrums2112

5 years ago


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There are 691 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 14.
#601 1 year ago
Quoted from skogen75:

Forgot to mention the saucer was pretty chewed-up, that was fixed my color matching some wood filler epoxy, even drew in some wood grain stains to match!

The saucer turned out great, that a tricky one to do to look good, mine is chewed up & I want to do a similar repair. Did you add paint/color to the wood filler epoxy to match the color or did you find an epoxy that came out of the tube that color? can I ask what wood filler epoxy product you used? all the wood filler epoxy products I have seen are either grey in color or are quite a different wood color to the saucer.

1 week later
#602 1 year ago

Greetings fellow Mata Hari owners. I guess I'm officially in the club. I bought a Mata Hari, (SS) but it has some BIG issues. I picked it up for $250. This was the last pin I needed to round out my college era of machines that was located in our student union during my education at the time. (1978-'82)

So, The cab is in pretty good shape, but the head is gutted. Gutted — as in no boards, transformer or backglass. The latter I took care of from the good folks at CPR. It's not a translight and is 3/16" thick. It put me back a few Benjies to say the least.

I thought I would first post here and kindly ask if there might be anyone here wishing to help direct me in finding the correct boards and transformer (pic of top number) or if any of you wish to offer up any for sale. There are a couple of posts on fleebay that has three boards for about $300 including shipping. I'm not sure if they are in working order.

It's going to take some mental fortitude and a lot of patience to resurrect this baby and I thank you all in advance for any encouragement. Otherwise I am sure it would of been parted out and headed inside a dumpster. The exterior cab and head are actually in really pretty good shape. I know there's a ton of work ahead of me. Thanks again. Yeah, I know. I'm nuts.

#603 1 year ago
Quoted from GeoKansas:

Greetings fellow Mata Hari owners. I guess I'm officially in the club. I bought a Mata Hari, (SS) but it has some BIG issues. I picked it up for $250. This was the last pin I needed to round out my college era of machines that was located in our student union during my education at the time. (1978-'82)
So, The cab is in pretty good shape, but the head is gutted. Gutted — as in no boards, transformer or backglass. The latter I took care of from the good folks at CPR. It's not a translight and is 3/16" thick. It put me back a few Benjies to say the least.
I thought I would first post here and kindly ask if there might be anyone here wishing to help direct me in finding the correct boards and transformer (pic of top number) or if any of you wish to offer up any for sale. There are a couple of posts on fleebay that has three boards for about $300 including shipping. I'm not sure if they are in working order.
It's going to take some mental fortitude and a lot of patience to resurrect this baby and I thank you all in advance for any encouragement. Otherwise I am sure it would of been parted out and headed inside a dumpster. The exterior cab and head are actually in really pretty good shape. I know there's a ton of work ahead of me. Thanks again. Yeah, I know. I'm nuts.

Not nuts at all. Welcome to the club. You could buy the 3 board bundle from Alltek but that will set you back over $400. Still not bad though considering what you paid for the game. They would be all new boards and you wouldn’t have to worry about them. That would get you almost there. You would still need the transformer and rectifier board. New rectifier boards are available. Alltek doesn’t make that one. The transformer might be a little tough but I’m sure you can find one.

#604 1 year ago

Thanks for the welcome phillyfan64! Your suggestions is kinda what I was thinking. The other two will be kinda hard to find. I will post pics tomorrow of this, um, beast? I am still trying to recuperate from the 1100K-mile round trip to get this and a few other machines.

#605 1 year ago

Also welcome to the club. 70’s Bally SS are my favorites. I also played them a lot in college in the late 70’s in the student union where I went to school. phillyfan64 is giving u good advice on the boards. My Mata Hari came with all original boards. I have replaced them all with Alltek. I’d rather play them than look for all kinds of crazy problems. Haven’t had any problems with the new boards. Bought the rectifier board from PBR. Maybe place an ad on here for the transformer. When u get the time, repin all your connectors especially if u buy all new boards. All these things are good to do if MH is a keeper for u.

#606 1 year ago
Quoted from eagle18:

Maybe place an ad on here for the transformer.

May pay to wait if you are in no hurry for a transformer, new transformers are currently being manufactured for SS Bally games. However they will be sold as a complete package with a rectifier.

I read they will be available from next year - maybe from Pinballlife in the US who stock Homepin parts.

https://www.facebook.com/homepin.factory/photos/a.111986629573489/830968014342010/

#607 1 year ago

Joydivision thanks for the link. I really appreciate all the help. I'm a relative newbie to the hobby. I know I have a large mountain to climb and the learning curve might be a bit challenging, but I am up for it. I soak this stuff up like a sponge.

I am going with my college theme on my collection. Mostly System 1s? 5101 chips I assume? Anyway, is there any one who has the actual MPU number I can use to build around? I have no idea the number on this MPU. I mean everything in this head unit is GONE.

eagle18 you and I have the same taste in pins. Before I move on and work my way up to new pins, I want to learn these machines inside and out. My mentor and friend toddsvec is my go-to-guy. He lives a half an hour away. This man is working his ass off. He's so busy, I find myself holding back asking questions. I am in no hurry to repair all my pins from 1978 to 1981 at once. LMAO

I'm like a damn squirrel — I can't seem to focus on fixing one machine and moving on. I am, however, an artist. So, I have that going for me. Thanks again for helping a greenhorn like me starting out.

Also, would someone please be kind enough to post the URL for these boards? I would be sincerely grateful.

#608 1 year ago
Quoted from GeoKansas:

Also, would someone please be kind enough to post the URL for these boards? I would be sincerely grateful.

Here's the Alltek bundle (MPU, Lamp Board, and Solenoid Board): https://allteksystems.com/collections/pinball-replacement-board-products/products/ultimate-mpu-w-solenoid-driver-led-lamp-driver-bundle

1 week later
#609 1 year ago

I've owned a Mata Hari (SS) PB machine for about 6-months now and am having a great time playing it. To give a different dynamic to the game I'm thinking about trying out a ceramic ball, which since it weighs less than steel, should speed up the play of the ball. Currently, the standard ball strikes the glass very often, especially when the ball jumps out of the saucer on a hard shot directly from a flipper, and sometimes it's so loud you would think it might break the glass. After experiencing this many times while playing, and reading about this phenomena I no longer worry about the glass breaking, but I'm concerned that with the faster ceramic ball speed, the ceramic ball striking against the glass might break it. I realize that the lighter ceramic applies less overall force than steel to an object (like the glass) when striking it at the same speed, but the higher speed of the ceramic ball may cancel out it's lower force or might even create more force on the glass than steel. Also, I believe that ceramic has a higher hardness value than steel, which may increase the probability of breaking the glass. Also of concern is the effect of the ceramic ball on any other objects on the playfield, like plastics.

I'm wondering if any Mata Hari owners have tried out a ceramic ball and what have been the results.

#610 1 year ago

Bought my first machine, a restored KISS machine in Sept, and lasted 11 weeks before I bought my second...locally thru Craig's List ($500). Went the other direction this time, a mechanically decent, but a cosmetic disaster of a Mata Hari. After watching a few months of You Tube videos and reading online I'm "SURE" I can do the needed repairs and get the 40 years of grime off of it...right???? But at least it does have 3 new boards, new score displays and an immaculate backglass with the dagger inscription.

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#611 1 year ago

A Hardtop will fix u right up!

4 weeks later
#612 11 months ago

Got a nice ball trough set up for sale in case anyone is working on a project Mata Hari.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/early-solid-state-ball-trough-assembly-

#613 11 months ago

My first project pinball..got everything cleaned and broken/consumable parts replaced. Only a few lights to troubleshoot, a little more painting and a couple of circuits/switches to troubleshoot (right flipper, ball eject trough and saucer intermittent) and then I will be selling. Before and after

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3 weeks later
#614 10 months ago

Question for all you MH lovers - my game is playing fine (needs some playfield love later on but love this machine) - but after we hit several drop targets, the scoring seems to take a while to catch up. Like it's still ringing up points, while the ball is still moving around. Then say it lands in the bonus hole, it may take a second for the scoring to catch up, then it scores the bonus and releases the ball.

It's like when it awards "thousands" -it gives it in "hundreds" and it seems like it takes a while for the scoring to catch up (this is only when you hit several targets at once...one or two quickly and it scores quickly. No issues.

I've replaced "all" caps under the playfield (thought it was a snipe hunt, but took care of it anyhow) - but could have an issue there.

I just didn't know if this is how they play, or if I have an issue somewhere ? And if so, where would I start? Is this a board component issue, switch or diode issue? Or just how the old game played at that time? (As it's a cross over from EM to SS - thought it may be inherent to the design?) Mine is the SS model. (Sad to say, love to find an EM!)

#615 10 months ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

It's like when it awards "thousands" -it gives it in "hundreds" and it seems like it takes a while for the scoring to catch up (this is only when you hit several targets at once...one or two quickly and it scores quickly. No issues.

That's correct, drop targets are worth 500 points each, so it adds "5" to the 100's score queue register (internal to the ram).

There's no "roll-up" function in the score queues, so if you have hit 4 drops down, there's "20" in the score queue register. The score queues do not process while there are pending switch events waiting.

There's nothing to "fix" in this case unless you want to modify the software.

#616 10 months ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

Question for all you MH lovers - my game is playing fine (needs some playfield love later on but love this machine) - but after we hit several drop targets, the scoring seems to take a while to catch up. Like it's still ringing up points, while the ball is still moving around. Then say it lands in the bonus hole, it may take a second for the scoring to catch up, then it scores the bonus and releases the ball.
It's like when it awards "thousands" -it gives it in "hundreds" and it seems like it takes a while for the scoring to catch up (this is only when you hit several targets at once...one or two quickly and it scores quickly. No issues.
I've replaced "all" caps under the playfield (thought it was a snipe hunt, but took care of it anyhow) - but could have an issue there.
I just didn't know if this is how they play, or if I have an issue somewhere ? And if so, where would I start? Is this a board component issue, switch or diode issue? Or just how the old game played at that time? (As it's a cross over from EM to SS - thought it may be inherent to the design?) Mine is the SS model. (Sad to say, love to find an EM!)

During the "catch-up", is the scoring actually correct? In other words, are you getting the correct score for the number of targets you actually hit? If you're getting more score than you should for the number of targets you hit, one or more leaf switch gaps may be too close. If it's too close, hard hits or even vibrations from nearby hits can cause "phantom" or "run-on" scoring.

#617 10 months ago

Sounds good, just wanted to be sure. I can be having a killer game, racking up points and my GF (playing another game) gets frustrated it's sitting there ringing up points! ha! She beats my scores on the newer games, but cant match me on these older games! Thanks for the confirmation!

Just saw "Mathazar's" post as well - yes, scoring correct ( had a stuck switch once and yes, it was similar and annoying, so adjusted that) But scores correct. It's when I hit say the 2nd round of targets, it takes a while to score all points.

Again - if it awarded in "thousands" it would go quick, but as "slochar" states, it seems to be just queued up and adding by the "hundreds", which take a bit.

#618 10 months ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

Question for all you MH lovers - my game is playing fine (needs some playfield love later on but love this machine) - but after we hit several drop targets, the scoring seems to take a while to catch up. Like it's still ringing up points, while the ball is still moving around. Then say it lands in the bonus hole, it may take a second for the scoring to catch up, then it scores the bonus and releases the ball.
It's like when it awards "thousands" -it gives it in "hundreds" and it seems like it takes a while for the scoring to catch up (this is only when you hit several targets at once...one or two quickly and it scores quickly. No issues.
I've replaced "all" caps under the playfield (thought it was a snipe hunt, but took care of it anyhow) - but could have an issue there.
I just didn't know if this is how they play, or if I have an issue somewhere ? And if so, where would I start? Is this a board component issue, switch or diode issue? Or just how the old game played at that time? (As it's a cross over from EM to SS - thought it may be inherent to the design?) Mine is the SS model. (Sad to say, love to find an EM!)

This all sounds familiar
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mata-hari-club-em-and-ss-all-are-welcome/page/6#post-4759685

Im telling you, those old diodes are a pain. Everyone always busts my balls for doing shot gun repair but if one of those diodes are bad in the bank it'll cause the runaway scoring just as much as the other stuff mentioned. Just replace them all for good measure. PM me your address and I'll mail you 8 for free if you dont have any on hand.

#619 10 months ago

Ha! Yes same game. And I did replace the diodes - what that was 2 years ago already? Wow.
That did stop the run away scoring and adjusting a few blades as that too was an issue.
I’ll check some videos to see if this one is acting correctly or someone needs to stop by and play this one !

#620 10 months ago

Ok - after playing several games tonight it’s confirmed - it is just adding the targets “500” points each - by hundreds When I hit two then quickly hit one across - while it is chiming away , I’ll hit another one or two and the hundreds keeps chiming. So it’s working correctly Sorry for the confusion

I guess I was thinking it would automatically round up to the thousands quickly but as you said thats prob not even possible to program

#621 10 months ago

I restored my MH playfield this past spring with a hardtop, all new playfield parts including Reese Rails and repinned all back box connectors. I recently restored the inside of the cab and used Pimp stencils to repaint and had the legs powder coated. Thanks to mrm_4, Arcane and Hokey Pokey for their restore threads, I took some things from each one and incorporated them into mine. I still need to restore the inside of the coin door per TractorDoc’s rebuild thread. There’s so much great info/ideas on Pinside. MH is playing and looking great!

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#623 10 months ago

I was 13 when I first met Mata in 1978. She was a brand new beauty. The first SS MH rolled off the line in April of that year. That Summer, I discovered her and an Eight Ball, at a college cafeteria 3 blocks from my house. The college didn't have much going on in the Summer, but they left all of the doors unlocked. This became my friend and I's new hangout for the next few months. We'd go dumpster diving for pop bottles to return for cash at the local A&P, and then go spend it all on pinball.

Fast forward 42 years, and here is my Mata Hari I bought last year. She's the 13th Bally in my collection. Playfield's not too bad. I did buy a Hardtop, but don't plan on installing it anytime soon.

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#624 10 months ago

eagle18 - that came out really nice! I did my MH hardtop last year and love it. Going to repair and repaint my cabinet this spring when the weather improves in Colorado. Got the Pinball Pimp stencils and some new side rails from Marcos last month.

I noticed your MH knocker is in the lower cab....did you relocate it? All the SS MH's I've seen (including mine) have the knocker in the backbox.

#625 10 months ago
Quoted from eagle18:

I restored my MH playfield this past spring with a hardtop, all new playfield parts including Reese Rails and repinned all back box connectors. I recently restored the inside of the cab and used Pimp stencils to repaint and had the legs powder coated. Thanks to mrm_4, Arcane and Hokey Pokey for their restore threads, I took some things from each one and incorporated them into mine. I still need to restore the inside of the coin door per TractorDoc’s rebuild thread. There’s so much great info/ideas on Pinside. MH is playing and looking great!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks damn good. Jealous of those apron decals with the black edge

#626 10 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Looks damn good. Jealous of those apron decals with the black edge

I picked up mine from Planetary Pinball last month for when I re-do my cabinet this spring. $33 but worth it to get the black edging. Still in stock if you want to pull the trigger:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DC-AP-MATA

#627 10 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I noticed your MH knocker is in the lower cab....did you relocate it? All the SS MH's I've seen (including mine) have the knocker in the backbox.

I did relocate it. I relocated the one in EK this spring and it’s much louder than in the back box. It actually vibrates your hand when it hits. Decided to do MH since I was in there. I noticed Arcane put his closer to the front.

Quoted from mrm_4:

Looks damn good. Jealous of those apron decals with the black edge

I got those from Marcos

Quoted from Mathazar:

Going to repair and repaint my cabinet this spring when the weather improves in Colorado.

I have a heated area to paint my stencils in. I keep it around 65-70 when I paint. I have used Rustoleum 2x ultra cover and have never experienced any of the problems other people have. I do 3 light coats 5 minutes apart then wait 8-10 minutes and start taking the stencils off. No paint gets on my hands. I did 4 coats of Rustoleum 2x gloss clear on MH 5 minutes apart with no problems either.

#628 10 months ago
Quoted from eagle18:

I did relocate it. I relocated the one in EK this spring and it’s much louder than in the back box. It actually vibrates your hand when it hits.

I also like feeling the knocker vibrate my hand when it goes off, especially getting the three-in-a-row after setting the high score. The knocker in my EBD (1984 Bally/Midway version) has it in the lower cab....might think about relocating the MH knocker when I re-do the cab now.

#629 10 months ago

Question for the group... Will a backglass for an EM Mata Hari work with the SS version? I have a SS with a translite that would look much better with a nice backglass.

#630 10 months ago
Quoted from Phesson:

Question for the group... Will a backglass for an EM Mata Hari work with the SS version? I have a SS with a translite that would look much better with a nice backglass.

I think the masking is different around the scoring displays. I have an EM Night Rider and a loose SS backglass. They are different.

You can buy a repo SS one here:

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/matahari-glass/

#631 10 months ago

FWIW, I'm very happy with CPR's reproduction MH backglass. Before and After on mine below (note: I have a slow changing color LED for the moon behind the Baron's head so in the snap with the lights on, it looks more red than it is. The effect is kinda cool IRL).

IMG_6555 (resized).JPGIMG_6569 (resized).JPGIMG_6613 (resized).JPG
#632 10 months ago

Thank you!

#633 10 months ago

My Mata Hari has an older Alltek board with a lithium battery. The battery is still working but it’s a few years old and I thought it might be time to change it. I don’t want to lose my high score or any settings. Do I need to keep the power on when I change the battery?

#634 10 months ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

My Mata Hari has an older Alltek board with a lithium battery. The battery is still working but it’s a few years old and I thought it might be time to change it. I don’t want to lose my high score or any settings. Do I need to keep the power on when I change the battery?

The Alltek revision J schematic says the RAM chip (with high scores) is powered by the power-supply when game power is on. So yes you should be able to swap the battery with the game on to prevent losing your highest score.
Make a note of what the highest score is anyway incase something goes wrong so you can manually set it again.

#635 10 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

The Alltek revision J schematic says the RAM chip (with high scores) is powered by the power-supply when game power is on. So yes you should be able to swap the battery with the game on to prevent losing your highest score.
Make a note of what the highest score is anyway incase something goes wrong so you can manually set it again.

Thanks Quench.

#636 10 months ago
Quoted from eagle18:

I restored my MH playfield this past spring with a hardtop, all new playfield parts including Reese Rails and repinned all back box connectors. I recently restored the inside of the cab and used Pimp stencils to repaint and had the legs powder coated. Thanks to mrm_4, Arcane and Hokey Pokey for their restore threads, I took some things from each one and incorporated them into mine. I still need to restore the inside of the coin door per TractorDoc’s rebuild thread. There’s so much great info/ideas on Pinside. MH is playing and looking great!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Glad my MH thread was able to help you out. Looks like you did a great job!

#637 10 months ago

The saucer ball release on my MH sends the ball to the left flipper 9/10 times, but the other one time it's sent SDTM into the drain. Is this normal, or is something out of adjustment? I have tried adjustments but the occasional SDTM still occurs.

#638 10 months ago

I adjusted mine to hit the left slingshot on the way down. No SDTMs. The adjustment is by slightly bending the ears in the saucer. A little bit goes a long way.

#639 10 months ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

The saucer ball release on my MH sends the ball to the left flipper 9/10 times, but the other one time it's sent SDTM into the drain. Is this normal, or is something out of adjustment? I have tried adjustments but the occasional SDTM still occurs.

For the most part its just the fins in the saucer that need adjusted, but those kickout mechs get worn over time and the arm or the plunger pieces get loose and make it inconsistent so slight bends on other pieces or replacements of other moving pieces might be needed. 9/10 aint too bad though.

#640 10 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

For the most part its just the fins in the saucer that need adjusted, but those kickout mechs get worn over time and the arm or the plunger pieces get loose and make it inconsistent so slight bends on other pieces or replacements of other moving pieces might be needed. 9/10 aint too bad though.

I remember playing an out of the box SS MH at a Time Out arcade in Springfield VA... I played it a lot and I remember to this day that it definitely drained occasionally from the saucer kickout... so I'd say if it drains 10%, then that's probably close to reality on that game, at least from my experience back then. My current EM MH drains a bit more than that, probably close to 20%. I'm keeping it as is.

#641 10 months ago

Thanks for the replies, guys. To make an adjustment, I've been slightly bending the kick-out arm. Now I'll try slightly bending the ears that hold the ball in place when the kick-out arm activates and see if there's any improvement.

#642 10 months ago

I never had any luck bending the kickout arm - the most effective was bending the ears opposite of what path you want it to take. For example, slightly bend the ears to the right to make it go more left.

#643 10 months ago

It definitely seems to go the opposite way u bend things. My kick out arm is facing towards the left and it shoots to the right flipper.

#644 10 months ago

Today I tried bending the right ear in the saucer slightly to the left. I played the game a few times and had 23 saucer kick outs in a row to the left flipper, but the 24th went SDTM. This 24th kick out was unusual, however, because the ball first hit the center of the saucer at high speed and triggered the switch, and then partially jumped out and rolled around the inside circumference of the saucer, and didn't quite come to rest when the kick out arm activated, so the ball could have gone in any direction down the pf. I'll consider the saucer kick out to be working properly now. Thanks for all the comments & suggestions.

#645 9 months ago

I thought my SDTM from the saucer kick-out problem was solved yesterday with only 1/24, but today it was 9/23 SDTM. I guess more adjustments are on the agenda.

#646 9 months ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

Hi all SS Mata Hari owners. I'm currently working on a re-write for Mata Hari, accomplished by plugging in a new processor into the J5 connector on the -17 board. The new board is based on an Arduino Nano and can be built for less than $20. I'm looking for a couple of testers who are willing to build their own card (takes a few hours) and send me videos of their results.
Here are examples of my other re-writes:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stars-2020-new-code-for-stern-stars-1978
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-jack-2020-new-code-for-bally-black-jack-1977
The new code implements roughly the same A/B lane and drop-target awards, but it also implements 5 "modes" for more scoring opportunities. Aside from the card plugged into J5, this re-write uses only original hardware, so it doesn't really modify the underlying machine. The new hardware also supports a switch for "dual-boot" so the old code can be run as well.
Please PM me if you're interested and I can provide more details.
(this is just a hobby of mine--aside from the Nano and a couple of connectors, it's all free. I'm not trying to sell anything)

Not sure if the offer still stands, but I would love to tweak a few rules. I have all the gear so it shouldn’t be a big deal to test out some code mods.

I would love to see a skill shot by making the saucer off the plunge, without hitting anything else, it would award the 3k and the 2x bonus at the same time and advance toward the 3x bonus.

Let me know what I need to do to sign up.

#647 9 months ago
Quoted from skogen75:

Not sure if the offer still stands, but I would love to tweak a few rules. I have all the gear so it shouldn’t be a big deal to test out some code mods.
I would love to see a skill shot by making the saucer off the plunge, without hitting anything else, it would award the 3k and the 2x bonus at the same time and advance toward the 3x bonus.
Let me know what I need to do to sign up.

That's easyish to do in the original coding or even in the open source version that Oliver Kaegi did a long time ago.
Also likely easy to add to the arduinos one as well as long as there's a variable that tracks if score had happened.

#648 9 months ago
Quoted from skogen75:

Not sure if the offer still stands, but I would love to tweak a few rules. I have all the gear so it shouldn’t be a big deal to test out some code mods.

I'll shoot you a message - thanks!

#649 9 months ago

Restoration nearing completion. Found a NOS playfield. Yes there was one out there... Which is cleared and now populated with some new parts, I kept originals when possible. Still need to mount the A B lane guides and aim them precisely to the flippers. This is the estate sale EM #1097 I found last spring. Was in a climate controlled basement for 40 years. Immaculate inside. I basically just vacuumed it out. Cabinet and trim is all original. All coils are original except a flipper coil. Cleaned and adjusted every contact. Polished trim and door, and put new legs on today. It runs and scores 100%. All #47 bulbs. The only mod I made was adding a 10k chime. The EM only had 3 and would strike the 10 and 1k chimes as a chord for a 10k. I really wanted to replicate the 50k the SS awards for targets down or outlane. I ran a wire in the harness from the 10k relay to the new chime. Added a plug for the new chime and even used a spare pin on the Jones plug. You can't tell its not factory-installed. Now it bangs out a low tone 50k. Anyway, wanted to share the project with you guys. I plan on taking it to expos when this pandemic is over. Tried to make it as original stock as possible. 100 hours and $5k in it. I'm almost done!

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#650 9 months ago

More pics

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