Mata Hari
Bally, 1978What would cause the 100 point chime coil to engage immediately when turning on the game and then stay on even after the mpu flashes 7 times and the chimes run through the melody? I just replaced the coil because it was burnt up and I see why now. Interesting that as soon as I flip the power switch the chime dings and you can hear the hum of the coil constantly.
Note the game plays fine and keeps score properly without giving an unnecessary 100 points but the coil is stuck on. And does not turn off even after hitting 100 point switches.
I would suspect a bad transistor on solenoid driver board : http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index3.htm#driver
do a switch test (probably with the ball removed) to see if a switch stuck & a solenoid test
Thanks for the link!
I'm still trying to figure out the way the tests work on the old Ballys. Pulling up the pdf of a manual on my phone and watching the numbers isn't working for me haha. Anyone know of any videos showing an old ballys test cycles or a "pinball for complete newbie morons" step by step.
Quoted from mrm_4:Thanks for the link!
I'm still trying to figure out the way the tests work on the old Ballys. Pulling up the pdf of a manual on my phone and watching the numbers isn't working for me haha. Anyone know of any videos showing an old ballys test cycles or a "pinball for complete newbie morons" step by step.
press button once -> all lamps flash repeatedly
press again -> displays cycle through all digits
press again -> each solenoid fires one at a time in order, score display shows the number of the current solenoid
press again -> you are now in switch test. if any switches are closed, the lowest numbered one will be displayed on the score display. investigate any closed switches until none show (0 is displayed for none)
the tests won't help you much here though. If the coil locks on before the MPU has booted then nothing the tests check will matter as the MPU yet isn't running to react to the switches.
open the coin door and press the button ...
the manual: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4501 says what each press of button does
1'st press lamps flash , 2'nd press displays , 3'rd press solenoids 4'th press switch test
it will also tell you the number in display associated with the stuck switch or whatever
will go further into "bookeeping" to set credit thresholds and whatnot
I love the help everyone offers on this site. I really hope to get to the level that I can confidently offer advice to someone after I get it all down. As for the coil and a test. Should I trace down the transistor first and replace before the test or should I unsolder the wires to the coil and then run the test. I'm concerned about the coil burning up again while I nervously fritter around with tracing the problem.
the manual recommends troubleshooting only for a minute with machine on and five minutes off
you can do a visual inspection of the solenoid driver board to see if any obvious damage to one of the transistors
the manual schematic should also point you to which transistor is designated for that coil (while machine is cooling off 
)
Quoted from mrm_4:I love the help everyone offers on this site. I really hope to get to the level that I can confidently offer advise to someone after I get it all down. As for the coil and a test. Should I trace down the transistor first and replace before the test or should I unsolder the wires to the coil and then run the test. I'm concerned about the coil burning up again while I nervously fritter around with tracing the problem.
If you desolder the coil the test won't help you. I'd replace the transistor before turning the game on again (although if you just want to play it some more you can just disconnect the coil and play safely)
I'm thinking plan of attack is find the bad transistor and replace it first. I'm not in a hurry to play and just trying to make sure everything is working properly before I do a playfield swap. Which probably sounds scary reading this thread haha. But I bought this to do a full restoration so I can learn on it. I just finished painting the playfield. It's too cold to clear coat in the garage so I switched to making sure the game is working properly.
the manual shows 17 solenoids driven by the board for this game, I think a standard solenoid driver board has 20 spots
I have scavenged an unused transistor to replace a burnt one til I get a replacement , (which I haven't done yet 
)
I have scavenged a knocker coil to replace a sling coil before also ( I DID get a replacement for that 
)
Quoted from zacaj:If you desolder the coil the test won't help you. I'd replace the transistor before turning the game on again (although if you just want to play it some more you can just disconnect the coil and play safely)
yeah pretty much whatever gets you safely flippin' til you get your replacement parts 
Quoted from chas10e:the manual shows 17 solenoids driven by the board for this game, I think a standard solenoid driver board has 20 spots
I think this just set in.... You're saying I may have a good transistor not being used on this board??? And I could just move it into use like a player waiting on the bench?
Mrm -
Yes, you could remove a transistor that does not drive anything in your machine to replace a bad one, but keep in mind the risk/reward equation.
Since the 100 point chime is locked on, its likely the transistor shorted. Look of the schematic to find which transistor drives the chime. If all else fails, let the chime remain locked for about 30 seconds, power down, and feel the metal tabs on the driver board, searching for the hot one. After treating the second degree burn, cut out the bad transistor, order new ones, and play the game until the parts get in.
Quoted from mrm_4:I'm looking over this schematic and it's interesting. All of the coils are listed as what they are operating such as flippers and slingshot, etc. except the chimes. I may just let it burn my finger to allow my eyes to uncross.
That's for Xenon. Wrong schematic
https://www.webmd.com/first-aid/tc/home-treatment-for-second-degree-burns-topic-overview
yeah if your comfortable with desoldering you can use the unused transistor. if uncofortable you can damage the board lifting traces and or damaging the desired part
chimes are listed on this schematic: http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/4501/Bally_1978_Mata_Hari_SS_Schematics.pdf
you can ground the tab on the transistor with a jumper wire and the solenoid will fire
the image I have a yellow jumper clipped on "q15" for the flipper relay and will not burn up like the other coils in the game. touching on the other tabs will fire the corresponding coil. also "q18" is missing as it isn't used on my game.
Quoted from zacaj:That's for Xenon. Wrong schematic
I was just wondering that haha I saw xenon and was like what the hell?.... Is this, wait, why would this, 
Case closed!!! It was Q5 per the schematic chas10e linked for me. I had a few IRL540N transistors from a repair on my Transformers LE. I hired someone to replace the transistor on the SAM board for Transformers. But after chugging a beer and watching 3 YouTube videos I said "Phuck it" and gave it a try myself on this board. Working like a charm. Thanks everyone!!!
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Kittery, ME