Certainly no personal motivation in making that statement, since you sell headphone jack kits at 100$ a pop, right?

Did this mod tonight with the SA100 amp and Pyle Blue's in the backbox. Sounds 100% better. Thanks for the info!

The Blue's don't sit flush so I'll need to space them up a bit at some point, so for now backbox grills removed.

I did this too. Still need to install the clarions in the backbox, but WOW, what great sound with the amp.

markmon,
What causes the noise in the speaker. I have noticed this before but I just got my AC/DC and changed to the Clarions you recommended. As an example, go to TNT and during the first chord, there is static. What do you think causes this? Stern's amp? Is there a way to fix it? I know it's not a stereo system, it's a pin, but it would be great if I could eliminate it.

By the way, the speakers with the cap removed do help the sound. Thanks for the recommendation!

Does anyone know the answer to this? Is it the quality of audio they use or are the Stern amps being pushed too hard at a volume of 50?

Thanks in advance.

I did this for the Clarions to help keep the tweeters off the grill. Used 1/2" long nylon spacers. Just make sure the opening is wide enough for the Clarion screws. Worked great. The one in the photo by itself is one that is not wide enough for the screw. The photo with the ones installed are wider to accommodate the Clarion screw.

You can do what Markmon suggested as well, I just thought I'd post this as an alternative. I think it even helped the noise problem I was having. Trying to do my part for Pinside for all the help I've received.

IMG_1912.jpg IMG_1909.JPG

Are those spacers found at any hardware store or even radio shack?

I found them at my hardware store. I'm pretty sure Lowes has them. I bought them at a smaller place that was closer to me but I'd be surprised if Home Depot didn't have them also. Not sure about Radio Shack. Many sizes to choose from, but on the speakers I used 1/2" length. Don't remember the opening size though. Just take a Clarion screw to be sure it fits.

Using standoffs like that is going to kill off any mid range sound that speaker can produce. The tweeter will work fine, but why throw away the most important audio spectrum (voice range) for the speaker? To do it right, the speaker needs to be sealed to the front panel.

Round Spacer, Nylon, Inch, 1/2" Length, #8 Screw Size, Pack of 100 @amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FPBU7M

You're probably right, though it sounds great to me, and I'm a musician! The mids are there. I'll have to run the sound through my analyzer. Maybe there's an easy way to seal them to see the difference.

I agree, you are losing a lot of sound with just spacers. I Made my own mounts this past weekend

I was going to try and find speaker spacer rings but couldn't find any that were 4" in size.

I ended up replacing the stock Stern speakers in my X-Men and it came out sounding great. Crossover for the sub was a Parts Express 100hz special. Sounds really good although I have a bit too many lows for the backbox speakers so I am getting a bass blocker cap to block out anything lower than 100hz. Bought one to block out lower than 200hz as well, I plan on trying both. The backbox speakers are rattling the backglass a bit. There is so much bass coming from the cabinet sub that these speakers don't need to push any bass.

The sub mount was a PIA. The replacement speaker doesn't mount in exactly the same spot as the factory speaker, its just slightly off. Also the factory full range speaker is only 7 3/16" measured from gasket to gasket (internal) and the replacement was 7.5" and the cutout in the bottom of the cabinet was smaller than 7.5". Below is a picture of a early mount that I made. I ended up using a forstner bit to countersink the T-Nuts underneath so they wouldn't cause the speaker to not sit flush with the bottom of the cabinet. I first mounted the speaker right in the cabinet but the speaker surround was hitting the bottom of the cabinet. Putting in the spacer ring made a HUGE difference in the sound.

Also I was thinking that going from two 8 ohm speakers to two 4 ohm was going to make a huge difference in sound output, it was not as dramatic as I thought it was going to be.

DSC_8823.JPG DSC_8827.JPG DSC_8830.JPG DSC_8831.JPG

Ok, I got some pre-made spacers off eBay. When they come in, I'll see how they help. It makes sense though to keep the bleed down to a minimum. Thanks guys for all of the audio info!

Are they round or square ? If they are round they will prob not work without modification. I picked up a cheap plastic set off amazon.com and unless I cut out "outside" edge off you will not be able to mount the speaker panel into the backbox. I plan to make some custom wood ones.

http://www.amazon.com/Gino-Universal-Speaker-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B00BLZ7SW6

I got square ones of eBay. They won't sit flush without modification, which I hope to have time for next week.

I cut one edge off round spacers to make them fit. It just takes a few seconds with a mitre saw.

IMG_3296-1024_zpsace21437.jpg

IMG_3294-1024_zps20d345bb.jpg

I know this is bringing back an older thread but, I just need to tip my hat to Markmon for putting these instructions together. I've never been a huge audio guy but, I finally added the $60 amp he recommended here and all I can say is wow! Its hard to believe its the same sub as before. Its thumping like a angry beast now. It beats the PP and FF subs I have in my other games but, that may be just because this is a rock and roll pin so, possibly not a fair comparison. I still need to do my BB speakers but, this game just got a ton more exciting with that upgrade. Many thumbs up to the OP.

Cut down a piece of "beer seal" for a good speaker seal.....

DSC_0007.JPGDSC_0005.JPG

I tried changing the backbox speakers, I gained basically nothing on AC/DC. These weren't el cheapo's either, nice quality polks. I tried Iron Man as well, no difference. I'm not sure if there's really anything to gain by replacing the backbox speakers on new Sterns.

I get some noticeable static on mine when the songs hit softer or silent parts. I was hoping the new BB speakers would help but, maybe not?

I may have an extra amp that was suggested in the original thread, if anyone is interested. PM me for details.

That's amazing becasue there was a HUGE difference on my AC/DC.

I am only using upgraded speakers ( no added amp) and the highs & mid-range are night and day different and the sub with a crossover filter moves enough air that the glass needed taped for rattle.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-speakers-on-my-ac-dcahhhhhhh

The amp and sub made a HUGE difference for me, but changing the backbox didn't. Was hoping for a big improvement, but like other people I didn't notice that big of a change. I used these:

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-4-Inch-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6GQ/ref=sr_1_1

I tried them on both AC/DC and Iron Man, no difference. Iron Man has a pinball pro sub with L-pad, so I kind of tried both methods.

more power is always nice, but if theres a REAL 18w available, another amp might not be necessary to get some adequate thumpage. efficiency specs on these are pretty good with 97db-1w-1m http://www.amazon.com/MCM-Audio-Select-55-2952-Surround/dp/B008BWA09U/ref=sr_1_34

MCM's 8's and 10's with treated paper cone and cloth surround also having similarly-signifigantly higher efficiency specs than most for their sizes, and definitely so for their price ranges. their poly cone rubber surround, no.

Sealing the space between the speaker panel and speaker dramatically increases the sound pressure output.
Without any sealing material it does not sound very impressive and you are loosing a LOT of sound inside the head box / cabinet.

I do have it sealed, 4" pvc rings I made. I tried it both ways, minimal difference (slightly more echoey without spacers). So I tried these setups:

Polks (and pioneers, have both) in Iron Man and AC/DC, no difference
Stern factory speakers in DE Tommy, no difference
Polks in X-Men pro replacing pinball pro speakers backbox (kept sub), noticable improvement

Ironically the only improvement I've gotten is replacing the pinball pro speakers...the polks actually sound rather amazing in X-Men. I need to do some more work with Tommy too, I've replaced the factory speakers in a GnR before with a pinball pro kit and it made a HUGE difference, think I'm going to have to replace the sub along with the backbox speakers to get the gain I'm looking for.

I got my sub amp yesterday.. A fun evening of crimping, and then... Holy f#*kng #@*=&$!!! What is this witchcraft? Thunderstruck?? Those thunder rolls go on 4 evaaaa! This is going in every machine!

Question re the service port.. Here in 240v world the service port is covered and labelled not to be used. Anyone know if it is being stepped down to 120v, or if it just a pass through of mains voltage? I want to rip that paper cover off and just put a plug adapter there to run the power. I cringe at pulling out the staples on the grating to run a lead out.

Link for Aussies...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAND-NEW-180W-ACTIVE-SUBWOOFER-AMP-12MTH-WARRANTY-/270720819732?pt=AU_Hi_Fi_Speakers&hash=item3f0837e214#ht_3983wt_939

Typically service ports are pass throughs from the wall voltage. I can't think of any pinball where 240 is converted to 120 with the stock set-ups.

Awesome, Thx. $5 travel adaptor coming..

Hi Mark/ guys,
I have bought these speakers http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pioneer-TS-G1021i-10cm-4-inch-180Watt-Car-Speakers-Set-of-Two-Free-UK-Shipping-/400685381371?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item5d4ab5b6fb

to update my Metallica speakers, I have noticed the volume has been reduced, just wanted to check if this is the right cap to remove you mentioned very early in the thread and solder the corresponding coloured wires to the positive and negative terminals of the speaker? image.jpg

Thanks again for taking all the time in detail for great sound upgrade.

Just compete that red wire to red wire circuit, without the cap between the wires. You can leave the cap soldered in.

Thanks Turbo, great idea

Or do this..
20140804_084506.jpg

Thanks TB, even easier.

Did you manage to get the two pin adapter and use the service output for 240v to power your amp?

I didn't see mention of the PinPro set up my brother and I installed over a year ago. If memory severs me it has a cross over and stand offs for the speaker cone. While I'm sure we would have made out cheaper your way had we seen it, what is your opinion of it?

Nah..rookie error, didn't occur to me that the service port would not even be wired up for this market. Carefully sliced open the warning sticker to find an empty hole..lol. I could wire up a service port reasonably easily, but starting to be more effort than required. Back to pulling a few staples out of the back grating.

Another option is to cut the power cable inside cabinet, add a double adapter socket to the end that goes to the wall, put a plug on the other end of cut cable, plug it in and you still have a spare space for another device to be plugged in (all inside the machine). I know A friend who has done it successfully with most of his machines.
I am planning on doing the same trick

Hi, hoping your still around? can you or Mark tell me where you installed the L-pad at, what speaker or speakers are you controlling with it?....confused on this end,

I just ordered all the stuff tonight.... and not sure if I really need the L-pad to dial it in?

Thnx, B.

another question as your original post was over 2 yrs ago.......is this still the same or right sub you bought back then?

The woofer recommended by PinBits: http://tinyurl.com/cov2wdf

peace, B.

Great upload

tktlwyr said,

This did increase the bass significantly. IMHO, it was too much without an L-Pad to work out a nice balance between the woofer and backbox speakers, even after removing the capacitor on the backbox speaker.

was trying clarify this quote is all.... and his link about the other 12" sub running a little better than the factory sub had my curiosity.....not trying to be a bonehead.

didnt make sense to me either , I was just asking to see what he said,,,maybe he will swing in and tell us.......

PinBits had recommended that particular woofer as a drop in replacement. I was simply saying that I personally didn't like the sound level balance between the new woofer and the backbox speakers and if I were to just add the woofer as recommended by PinBits, I'd add an L-pad to adjust the sound to my liking.

Since I added the amplifier, an L-pad was not necessary since you can adjust the volume and crossover frequency on the amplifier.

Basically, if you're using the recommended amplifier, you don't need the L-pad.

Anyone have any advice on how to pick drop-in backbox speakers that will fit with my lighted speaker grill mod?

Reviving this thread, as I'm trying to upgrade my Stern SAM Tron machine.

For starter, i'm having a hard time finding a suitable link for a subwoofer amplifier, all the links posted in this thread are now dead.
So... what should be the terms I'm looking for to find an equivalent amplifier ? especially the term to be used for the "speaker level input", for lack of a better word.

Alternatively, I could:
- Use a simple 10 dollars adaptor that take the amplified speaker signal directly on the CPU board: I have one (I think from Pinnovators), seems pretty basic (a few resistors and that's it), whereas Pinwoofer seems more involved. I could actually design one if required, although I'm not sure I would go that route (see point 2/ below)
- Hook up directly on the test point of the CPU board for audio. Yes, they are there, and they provide native 2.0 line output, which means I can directly connect to a regular 2.1 amplifier (or if I feel fancy, I use a dual coil speaker, with a 2.2 amplifier)

Thoughts ?