Absolute Banger. You know I'm in!

Integrated with the game you say?

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Just to flesh out that tease a bit..

(which sounds super gross now that I've said it)

The board above is a 'trigger and timer' board. It'll monitor the maser switch and the maser flasher independently, and when triggered, turn on the maser cannon and/or the maser 'arm' for a number of seconds. How many seconds is selectable by the little dinky twizzle knobs (tm).

Same sensors as used in Lollypops, all sitting behind opto-isolators so electrically separated and super secure. A simple little board to add some awesome game integration to an awesome mod. I've had the Maser Cannon mod in hand for the last week and as you'd expect, it's beautifully designed and thought out. Little diffusers covering the strip, super detailed cast pewter. Dry brushing on the tank. Some really nice touches.

These guys do great work and I'm super proud to be able to assist them with this build.

Waiting on me.. as usual! (Sorry team)

Needed a few design iterations to get things right on the board front, so that both lamps and switches can both trigger the different 12v strips in the mod. Received the latest one today and about to send it over to the boys for final sign off.

Usually, I only do pro bono work for the sweet sweet accolades, so its nice when it also results in a sweet sweet party pack!

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For those that don't know, Fire & Bone is Jason's (one half of High End) other gig. Super stoked to be able to see all this quality work up close. Big ups guys, you're smashing it.

Interactive with the maser switch and the maser flasher. Each will turn on one part of the Maser Canon lighting (blue or red) for a number of seconds, which is selectable on the board. Can your oversized plastic maser cannon do dat?

You can always split further using the cheaper splitters to add more outputs, and will more than likely still be under 5 amps (you can test by connecting an $3 Ali express amp meter to the splitter+ if you want to go full nerd). Otherwise a second splitter+ can always be added in series if you want to double it up.

Godzilla must be the most modded machine of all time.

Gotta admit I feel partly responsible.

Okay - crash course in Stern mod powering!

There's generally 4 ways to power mods on a modern Stern game.

1 - Take power directly from a GI bulb. This is 5V, not many amps, and reliant on the voltage regulator on the node board (and the game dimming). This is most often used for mods that aren't too power hungry and want a simple installation and wire routing.

2 - Take power from the backbox, power distribution board, CN6. This is 12v, and has a 2A max rating. Generally used for toppers, speaker lights, than sort of thing.

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3 - Take power from the cabinet node board, CN11 (ticket dispenser). This is 12v, 3A max rating. CN11 tends to be where most mods are powered from these days, simply due to it having the biggest amp rating.

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There's only one CN11 header, so if you want multiple mods powered from that source, you need a non-active splitter, such as the el cheapo one we offer here:

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https://stumblorpinball.com/products/splitter

While fine for most situations, using CN11 means you're still reliant on the node boards for power, which some people are rightly uncomfortable with, since the node boards are an expensive replacement if anything goes wrong. Additionally, we've also noticed that in certain situations, shakers can cause EMF voltage spikes on this line, which further complicates using it. Which is why the best solution is now...

4 - Generate a new, isolated 12v power source, using the 48v line. Pinball Life were the first (I think) to offer a solution for this which is here:

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https://www.pinballlife.com/accessory-power-supply-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-machines-cabinet-mounting.html

We also offer a similar product, called the Splitter+, which has more CN11 style outputs and a higher amp rating (5A, instead of 3A).

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https://stumblorpinball.com/products/splitterplus

The Splitter+ is what Strummy is offering in conjunction with the maser cannon mod.

Hope that helps!

You're fine to remain as is - and can always use the Splitter+ in another game, if you wanted to. Or, if you decide you're going to add in some more mods to Godzilla, you can always swap out the original splitter with the Splitter+ in order to give yourself some more breathing room.

Hey mate - feel from to PM me to debug, and if you could please send me a picture of that flasher t-tap. Sounds like either a polarity issue with the t-tap, or a defective board.