I just installed LEDs, cleaned, and replaced rubbers. It's back together and ALIVE!

Does anybody know the correct order to remove the Creature Ramp, North Pole VUK wire ramp, the plastic around the VUK (ring with the three lights), and the channel that feeds the ball to the creature's hands?

The reason I ask is, I had to put the plastic ring on and hold it out of the way while I bolted down the VUK wire ramp. Then screwing down the plastic ring required putting the screw driver at an angle (the creature ramp was in the way), and it didn't seat well into the screw.

I think I was supposed to have the creature ramp in place but NOT bolted down when I did the above. Then bolt down the creature ramp afterwards. But I'm not sure.

Also, a bit or warning: the bolts for the wire ramps are a different size. There are three: two on the VUK, and one at the right sling shot. Don't accidentally try to put the smaller bolt on, or you'll strip out the post. It was less than $2, but I had to pay $6 shipping and wait several days for a replacement.

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My North Pole VUK occasionally doesn't kick the ball all the way up and around the wire ramp. I found this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/frankenstein-north-pole-vuk

I ordered new coil sleeves. I'll let you know how they work out. But while I wait for the shipment - since many of the coils use the same sleeve, I decided to swap the sleeve on the knocker with the only on the north pole vuk. It seemed to work a little better, but the ball still didn't make it up a couple of time. I'll inspect the other things mentioned in the post, and let you know what I find.

I also ran across this
http://gameroomblog.com/reviews/a-forgotten-monstrous-gem-of-a-pinball

He mentions that it is hard to make the creature ramp. I don't find that to be the case. The ball sometimes doesn't make the ramp - but that can be said of all machines/all ramps. He points to a replacement for the stock coil. Has anybody else done this? If so, what do you think of the result?

It's a beautiful thing.

My North Pole VUK is better, but still not 100%. I checked the solder joints. I checked to ensure the coil assembly was mounted securely. Since my knocker coil is the same, and significantly less used, I swapped it (and the parts that go with it) with my North Pole coil. I also leveled my machine - it was slightly off.

One thing I did that seemed to have an effect on how well the ball made around the VUK wire ramp, was to physically tilt the ramp back by a few millimeters. It is not loose, but I can apply a mild amount of force with my finger and test the VUK and it seems to send the ball around the ramp quite a bit fast/more cleanly. This leads me to believe the ball is being launch up at one angle, but the wire ramp is at an ever so slightly different angle. The result is, the friction reduces the velocity of the ball - occasionally so much that it falls back.

Before I take it apart, I may use a bit of bailing wire to hold the ramp tilted slightly back. I'll play several games and see how that goes.

Should I wax the wire VUK ramp? Does anybody do that?

FYI, new sleeves arrived, and it appear my VUK issue has been resolved.

I spoke too early. The VUK thing still isn't 100%. I'm going to order a different coil.

This brings me to my next observation/question: I've been testing a bunch, and I have been reaching wizard mode more often. Twice, after wizard mode, I hit the creature ramp to start the lock mode for multiball. Once this mode is started, none of the kickers acknowledge being hit. I thought it was only the north pole, but I realize now that it is the two scoops and ice cave too. Once the game was able to recover - and I'm not 100% sure why.

I have ROM version a1.03. It seems like this is the latest version. I checked IPDB.ORG.

Anybody seen this, or have an idea about how to resolve it?

Anybody able to help me out?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/msf-popozone-now-no-display

thx

That's good to know.

How are you guys mounting your power supply? I physically have mine wedged in below the caps (left side of the backbox).

If you have the switch arm, you probably only need the switch itself. In fact, if you have the switch arm, you can probably find another switch somewhere in the machine and swap them out.

I noticed your pin2dmd does the same thing as mine. At 1:34 your DMD resets and shows the title screen with the display version.

I just listened to the Hazzard pinsound remix. It sounds really good. I hope he kept the "super Super SUPER JACKPOT!!". It is the most dramatic super jackpot callout I know of - in part because all other music and sound goes silent for the callout. It is so satisfying too, because it takes sooo many shots to get there: 2 jackpots plus 12 targets, creature ramp jackpot, sarcophagus jackpot, then the roaming super super super jackpot.

If there is audio of the remix of this online somewhere, please let me know.

Little known fact - although Frankenstein doesn't support mode stacking, there is a corner case that lets you do it (kind of). If you are one shot away from starting Geneva multiball, and the shot is lit, and you start a mode then immediately hit the Geneva shot, you can play the mode in 3 ball multiball. The best way to achieve this is by leaving the R as the last target. Then you can deflect off the R into the Geneva scoop. It has to be VERY QUICKLY after the mode start - there is not time to take a shot, it almost certainly must be a bounce into the scoop.

I just did Graveyard mode while in Geneva multiball. It gives a jackpot and awards mode shot for each shot hit. HOWEVER, I don't believe it awarded me the head when I shot the ice cave, but it did award a jackpot. So I don't know if you want to do the stack intentionally.

I bought a full LED kit, with 2 led strip, and a few spotlights. It was quite a while back. It is definitely not offered in the same sku any more.

However, one thing to note about LEDs on Sega - you must change out from the top. They are stapled in. Because of that, once you have the entire playfield torn down, make sure to replace GIs with LEDs. Make sure to buy the highest quality LEDs especially for those hard to get to sockets. The LEDs will last a long time; but poor quality LEDs will fail.

If your DMD is working, keep it. They can't be repair, because of how they are made. If you choose to put in a ColorDMD, you'll find somebody to buy your original.

Buy Cliffys. Hopefully your Geneva and Sarcophagus scoops aren't hollowed out; but event if they are, Cliffys will prevent further damage. I don't notice that Sarcophagus Cliffy makes the shot harder. The Geneva Cliffy does make the Geneva shot a little bit harder. Well worth the price. He even has a protector for the Ice Cave.

I'm not sure what you mean about changing the post.

The one thing I did, was grind down the left side of the Geneva Cliffy so ball could pass without having to roll up on the Cliffy. Until reading wugly's post, I forgot that I even did that - because I have had zero hung up balls.

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That looks great. How did you model it so precisely? Did you scan the other one with some software?