(Topic ID: 97334)

Mary Shelley's Frankenstein Owner's Club- ideas & info


By blondetall

4 years ago



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  • 498 posts
  • 85 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Crash
  • Topic is favorited by 37 Pinsiders

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There are 498 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 10.
#101 3 years ago

My machine had several changes from the original rubber layout. Also had an additional small L bracket put behind the upper flipper to keep the ball from getting trapped by the flipper. To do that, they removed a GI light. I put everything back the original way. But of course, now sometimes the ball gets caught behind that flipper..........

I can send you a bunch of pictures of my teardown if you want. They are on my phone. If you PM me a number, I can try to forward to you.

Keith

#102 3 years ago

At MMPs request, I put the pictures of my MSF teardown into a dropbox account. There are about 200 pics, unlabeled, which show the playfield as I tore it down, with various close ups of things I thought were important at that time. Here is the dropbox link:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0yfwujar6dptwz3/AABWYG3tJcyRh6D4Rwe0OEvta?dl=0

This is my first time ever using dropbox and I just set up the account. Someone please let me know if everything worked out okay with the link, etc.

Hope these photos are helpful to some of you.

Keith

#103 3 years ago

Thank you, they will be very useful to compare with another example of the game.

1 month later
#104 3 years ago

Thanks again for the assembly pictures. Got this one nearly complete! I made a few cosmetic changes- removed green, used clear plastic posts instead of black, and WW leds for GI and most of the inserts.

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2 months later
#105 2 years ago

When I get to multiball and the balls go into the monsters hands, they just fall off instead of him throwing them at me. Can anybody give me some guidance on adjusting this?

1 week later
#106 2 years ago

Anyone know where the long group of two red and black cables from the power board connect to?

The wires are long and look like they should go down into the cabinet and attach to something. They are attached to CH4 on the power board. I cannot figure out what it goes to.

It is in the bottom left corner of the attached photo.

Thanks.

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#107 2 years ago

I just installed LEDs, cleaned, and replaced rubbers. It's back together and ALIVE!

Does anybody know the correct order to remove the Creature Ramp, North Pole VUK wire ramp, the plastic around the VUK (ring with the three lights), and the channel that feeds the ball to the creature's hands?

The reason I ask is, I had to put the plastic ring on and hold it out of the way while I bolted down the VUK wire ramp. Then screwing down the plastic ring required putting the screw driver at an angle (the creature ramp was in the way), and it didn't seat well into the screw.

I think I was supposed to have the creature ramp in place but NOT bolted down when I did the above. Then bolt down the creature ramp afterwards. But I'm not sure.

Also, a bit or warning: the bolts for the wire ramps are a different size. There are three: two on the VUK, and one at the right sling shot. Don't accidentally try to put the smaller bolt on, or you'll strip out the post. It was less than $2, but I had to pay $6 shipping and wait several days for a replacement.

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#108 2 years ago

Just an FYI, Pinball Life has 192 X 64 dmd's in stock. $499. Have not seen any for sale in some time now.

1 week later
#109 2 years ago

Hello all MSF fans,

Does please somebody have MSF instruction card in the format which is able to edit? I would like to translate it to CZ bude I found PDFs only.

Thank you very much!

2 weeks later
#110 2 years ago

I'M NOT READY!

1 month later
#111 2 years ago

Can somebody check something for me? On the auto launch coil, there is a yellow/violet wire and a violet/brown or red wire. Which wire goes on the right?

#112 2 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

Can somebody check something for me? On the auto launch coil, there is a yellow/violet wire and a violet/brown or red wire. Which wire goes on the right?

Anybody? I forgot to write it down before I took out the coil and now I forgot which wire goes where.

#113 2 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

Anybody? I forgot to write it down before I took out the coil and now I forgot which wire goes where.

Hope this helps you solve your issue

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#114 2 years ago

That definitely helped. I had it right but it was still blowing the fuse so I thought that maybe I had it backwards. I had replaced 2 transistors on the board because the auto launcher would stick in the upright position but not it blows the fuse. I will have to try redoing those transistors. Maybe my soldering was too shoddy.

#115 2 years ago

Transistors often blow due to a shorted diode on the coil, or a coil winding that is shorted or too low resistance. Did you replace the coil and diode when you replaced the transistor?

#116 2 years ago

My North Pole VUK occasionally doesn't kick the ball all the way up and around the wire ramp. I found this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/frankenstein-north-pole-vuk

I ordered new coil sleeves. I'll let you know how they work out. But while I wait for the shipment - since many of the coils use the same sleeve, I decided to swap the sleeve on the knocker with the only on the north pole vuk. It seemed to work a little better, but the ball still didn't make it up a couple of time. I'll inspect the other things mentioned in the post, and let you know what I find.

I also ran across this
http://gameroomblog.com/reviews/a-forgotten-monstrous-gem-of-a-pinball

He mentions that it is hard to make the creature ramp. I don't find that to be the case. The ball sometimes doesn't make the ramp - but that can be said of all machines/all ramps. He points to a replacement for the stock coil. Has anybody else done this? If so, what do you think of the result?

#117 2 years ago

I had that problem with the North Pole VUK. Mine was due to the mounting screws on the assembly being loose.

#118 2 years ago

Hope, you like what you see...

Same display mounted to a batman forever!

More info here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/who-needs-a-sega-192x64-replacement

Greetings,
Dom

#119 2 years ago

It's a beautiful thing.

#120 2 years ago

My North Pole VUK is better, but still not 100%. I checked the solder joints. I checked to ensure the coil assembly was mounted securely. Since my knocker coil is the same, and significantly less used, I swapped it (and the parts that go with it) with my North Pole coil. I also leveled my machine - it was slightly off.

One thing I did that seemed to have an effect on how well the ball made around the VUK wire ramp, was to physically tilt the ramp back by a few millimeters. It is not loose, but I can apply a mild amount of force with my finger and test the VUK and it seems to send the ball around the ramp quite a bit fast/more cleanly. This leads me to believe the ball is being launch up at one angle, but the wire ramp is at an ever so slightly different angle. The result is, the friction reduces the velocity of the ball - occasionally so much that it falls back.

Before I take it apart, I may use a bit of bailing wire to hold the ramp tilted slightly back. I'll play several games and see how that goes.

Should I wax the wire VUK ramp? Does anybody do that?

#121 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Transistors often blow due to a shorted diode on the coil, or a coil winding that is shorted or too low resistance. Did you replace the coil and diode when you replaced the transistor?

I replaced the coil and I replaced the transistor associated with it. The fuse still blows. Any ideas what may be blowing the fuse?

#122 2 years ago

FYI, new sleeves arrived, and it appear my VUK issue has been resolved.

#123 2 years ago

I spoke too early. The VUK thing still isn't 100%. I'm going to order a different coil.

This brings me to my next observation/question: I've been testing a bunch, and I have been reaching wizard mode more often. Twice, after wizard mode, I hit the creature ramp to start the lock mode for multiball. Once this mode is started, none of the kickers acknowledge being hit. I thought it was only the north pole, but I realize now that it is the two scoops and ice cave too. Once the game was able to recover - and I'm not 100% sure why.

I have ROM version a1.03. It seems like this is the latest version. I checked IPDB.ORG.

Anybody seen this, or have an idea about how to resolve it?

2 weeks later
#125 2 years ago

Large DMD Sega panels are nearly done, just a few finishing touches. Pictures done with panels in different brightness levels.

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1 week later
#126 2 years ago

Hey folks-es-es-

I make custom chrome vinyl decals for pop bumpers for a large variety of pins. Thought you'd be interested in the new set I designed for Frankenstein. Attached is a picture of them installed along with Comet LED Rings. Link to the store aso well as other designs here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/they%e2%80%99re-back-custom-chrome-cap-decals-for-pop-bumpers-metal-modsco

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#127 2 years ago

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2 weeks later
2 weeks later
#130 2 years ago

I just picked one up last week and I'm crazy about the theme and the game play. I love the callouts and DMD animations and both soundtracks are fantastic. This game is lots of action and a total sleeper. One of Borg's best in my opinion and criminally underrated.

#131 2 years ago

I need a bit of help. My DMD fried a few months back, and I managed to find/get a good used DMD to replace it. My husband finally got around to installing it last night, and everything is plugged in correctly and the machine comes on, but the DMD still won't light up. Is there a specific fuse that would be associated with it that may have blown when the original DMD blew?

#132 2 years ago
Quoted from blondetall:

Is there a specific fuse that would be associated with it that may have blown when the original DMD blew?

If memory serves, there actually is a fuse in the left side of the backbox that is not easily seen. The wire bundle tends to cover it. Can you check the 5 volts to the dmd board?

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#133 2 years ago

Thanks. We just havent had time to diagnose it once it didnt immediately work with the replacement, and figured a fuse may be the issue and wanted to rule that out first. I'll check the fuse and go from there.

3 months later
#134 2 years ago

Does frank toy ever get two balls locked at the same time? As in he throws two balls at you? Ive only seen it lock one or the other.

#135 2 years ago

Yes, I've had it several times. But mine is set on "Easy Play" and I mean at the EASIEST!!! I think it is only because of this that I get far enough to light all three of those lights up where you have to hit that hole to get the ball to the hands. If that makes sense. I'm not near my pin and I can't remember what that place is called up there, but I'm sure you know what I mean.

Mike in Kentucky

#136 2 years ago

North Pole

#137 2 years ago

Creature two ball only locks one ball then he chucks it. Ive seen the ball launch from each hand, but i couldve sworn ive played a game where he threw two at once. Code is latest. Ill try and play with setting i guess?

#138 2 years ago

Frank will throw 2 balls during multiball, but you have to hit the north pole twice to lock the balls in his hands. I have my game set on medium and it is hard to do. I believe it is a timed lock. I only get the 6 ball multi ball every 15 to 20 games.

#139 2 years ago
Quoted from Evilive69:

Frank will throw 2 balls during multiball, but you have to hit the north pole twice to lock the balls in his hands. I have my game set on medium and it is hard to do. I believe it is a timed lock. I only get the 6 ball multi ball every 15 to 20 games.

Which setting do you have on medium

#140 2 years ago

Which multiball mode does frank throw 2balls at once?

1 week later
#141 2 years ago

Added a blue LED strip behind the back ramps to brighten it up a bit.

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#142 2 years ago
Quoted from Evilive69:

Added a blue LED strip behind the back ramps to brighten it up a bit.

OK. That's what I want to do also. I have a spool of LED's (white). Can you tell me how you hook them up? I am sure you attached yours to a GI lamp somewhere, but HOW do you do this? All I see are those little gold looking tabs on the end of the LED strip. Do I solder a wire to the end of that thing? Like . . . one side is positive and the other is negative? And if that is how you do it, that would sure be a 'delicate' project. Might have to find me a surgeon with steady hands.

Thanks for any help you may pass on to me. And PSST . . . don't tell other Pinside members I'm too dumb to do this myself and needed help!

Mike in Kentucky

#143 2 years ago

I used 12 volt LED's so I ran wires up to the power supply test points. Yes, I soldered wires directly to the LED tape, one for positive and one for negative.

#144 2 years ago

Ahhh . . . that's good info! I was going to screw mine up because I forgot my LED's are 12 volt. I actually think I understand what to do now. I REALLY appreciate your feedback on this.

Mike in Kentucky

1 month later
#145 2 years ago

My latest mod-project. Custom flipper-bat-toppers...

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1 month later
#146 2 years ago

need to know where lower ramp all connects to the playfield. seems like my lower left corner of ramp is kinda flimsy... only place mine is connecting is the 2 ramp screws at the flap and on the slingshot. is there supposed to be another ramp support somewhere?

4 months later
#147 1 year ago

Chasing an issue that came up after installing a new floor (thus, machines got moved around a bit). Afterward, Frankenstein no longer has any controlled insert lights (or Geneva/North pole, etc.). The machine otherwise works perfectly right now. As noted below, the bridge rectifier is my current suspicion, but checking here to see if that makes sense to anyone else while I wait for a new part.

I've re-seated many connections, see no burnt pins, and don't see any missing connections, but do see a female 4 pin connector (only a red and black wire connected) dangling into the cabinet from CN6 on the Power supply board, but the wires look newer as if tapped into for something else (former mod?), and I can't for the life of me see anywhere that is missing such a connector. Is that connector supposed to be there? And if so, where does it go?

What I expect to be the relevant fuse (F2 on the BB) is testing good (all other fuses look to be good). This is the first time I've tested a bridge rectifier, but BR1 seems to be testing odd (the one I expect to be relevant). The other rectifiers nearby test as I'd expect from instructions on how to test, but BR1 maintains an "OL" reading when testing between the "-" post on the BR to either AC post (red lead from the DMM on the "-" post and black to AC). I get a high reading if I put the black lead onto "-" and red onto AC posts. . + to AC tests are as expected.

Not sure if that confirms an issue with the bridge rectifier (or a fault in my testing attempt), but I'll be ordering a couple regardless and will give it a shot if I don't discover a better lead on my issue beforehand.

Any help would be appreciated (even if it's just to confirm that my BR sounds questionable). If the BR doesn't fix my issue, my next planned step is to pull boards to check for cold/cracked solder.

#148 1 year ago

Sounds like the taped connector is the 12v upgrade/service bulletin from sega that fixed the large dmd reset issue. So don't think that is related to your problem.

#149 1 year ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

Chasing an issue that came up after installing a new floor (thus, machines got moved around a bit). Afterward, Frankenstein no longer has any controlled insert lights (or Geneva/North pole, etc.). The machine otherwise works perfectly right now. As noted below, the bridge rectifier is my current suspicion, but checking here to see if that makes sense to anyone else while I wait for a new part.
I've re-seated many connections, see no burnt pins, and don't see any missing connections, but do see a female 4 pin connector (only a red and black wire connected) dangling into the cabinet from CN6 on the Power supply board, but the wires look newer as if tapped into for something else (former mod?), and I can't for the life of me see anywhere that is missing such a connector. Is that connector supposed to be there? And if so, where does it go?
What I expect to be the relevant fuse (F2 on the BB) is testing good (all other fuses look to be good). This is the first time I've tested a bridge rectifier, but BR1 seems to be testing odd (the one I expect to be relevant). The other rectifiers nearby test as I'd expect from instructions on how to test, but BR1 maintains an "OL" reading when testing between the "-" post on the BR to either AC post (red lead from the DMM on the "-" post and black to AC). I get a high reading if I put the black lead onto "-" and red onto AC posts. . + to AC tests are as expected.
Not sure if that confirms an issue with the bridge rectifier (or a fault in my testing attempt), but I'll be ordering a couple regardless and will give it a shot if I don't discover a better lead on my issue beforehand.
Any help would be appreciated (even if it's just to confirm that my BR sounds questionable). If the BR doesn't fix my issue, my next planned step is to pull boards to check for cold/cracked solder.

For anyone that may stumble on this post with a similar issue and would like to know the solution in my case, the bridge rectifier was in fact the problem. Machine is back to 100%

#150 1 year ago

I haven't found this mentioned anywhere, and I'm curious. Does everyone's MSF say, "In memory of Louis Boasberg" in the credits? Google tells me that he was an operator in the 40's.

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